highlandmist

Thank you very much, ordered from Paddocks.

Sorry, its a 90 station wagon,

It's that time again, the dreaded MOT ! Today it turned up front nearside seat belt damaged significantly to weaken the webbing ! Not having much luck searching for a new one, found Discovery ones but don't know if it's the same belt. Any help appreciated. Needs two reflectors on the back also that he must have missed last year as they were not on the vehicle then either !

Some searching seems to turn up the front wiper park switch which I replaced last year. The back wiper does not park either. I can't see the switch unless it's been annoyingly situated so that the motor has to be removed to see it ?

Thanks people. Inspected thew other side more closely today and after a little prodding it revealed itself to be in a similar state. Both of them at the outer end thankfully so should be able to tidy up chassis and and fit the reduced diameter versions.

I'm going to have to replace this as it's rusted through the tube near the Diesel tank, has anyone done one ? I've done both front ones but I want to know how difficult it is to remove the tube that passes through the chassis on the rear ones ? Any tips ?

I dont get the warning light at all at low revs. I think I got this occasionally with the old one but only recently when it wasn't delivering the volts ! We noticed yesterday that the wipers are now like normal wipers, before they dragged themselves lazily across the screen. Will try to get out tonight to test lights / heater all together. I'm going to get me a voltmeter in keeping with the fuel and temp gauges on the dash. Any suggestions what to get and how to wire it so it's only on with ignition welcome.

Defender 200 tdi 1993 I've had battery/alternator issues recently. After a night drive of ever diminishing headlights I had to jump start her the next day. After a long drive the battery was reading 12.8v but the alternator was only giving out 13.4 volts, a good volt or more short ? I acquired a brand new 70 amp STC234 from Barry 4x4. After fitting it's only giving me 13.9 volts under slight revs. Wonder if I should be expecting 14.5 volts and if so, ruling out the actual alternator what could be causing the drop ?

Jumped into this thread as it precedes mine and it's the same problem. I may get a look at it this weekend, weather permitting. I have fixed every problem so far but electrics is a weak point of mine Replaced the stalk and the main light switch but not the washer stalk. I tried disconnecting it when I did the main stalk but couldn't ? Do you remember having problems getting it off ? Also, what diodes do I need to buy ?

Still doing it. I have found that the red relay in the fuse box is for the wipers. There's a voltage of 1.6v going over it as soon as I put the ignition on.

You may know I had an intermittent problem on the 1993 Defender 200 tdi. Every now and again when I either switched the main headlamps on or flashed the lights I would receive a free swipe of the wipers whether I like it or not. Not a big deal as I'm quite anti-social and don't flash many people Anyway, the plot thickened the other day when turning on the headlamps returned no swipe and NO headlamps ! The side lights work fine. I removed the cowling around the stalk and tested with my basic continuity tester. I get a beep at position 1 ( sidelights) and nothing at position 2 main beam. I have ordered a new switch and, to be on the safe side, the "indicator,horn,stalk,switch unit". I have read that these switches are prone to wear/melting but what I'm not sure about is whether the 1993 Defender has a headlamp relay and where it might be. Whether it has one or not I would like to know what the relays are for future ref. There's the ones under the fuse box and two behind the dash, anyone have a diagram ?

Did the job. Grub screw was about to fall out it was so loose. Had two attempts getting the fork in workable position. Hi-Low selection better than ever. Hope grub screw stays put for a while but not sure if it may have put a groove into shaft with being losse for so long. Some images for reference Top Removed Looking at the shaft fork and grub screw.

This is what I did, but only got as far as one bolt on the radius arm and one on the Panhard rod. I just bought an auto darkening mask to cheer myself up It's been driving me mad getting into an awkward position all ready then loosing the start point because you have to flip the glass down.

Discomikey can you explain a bit more about them maybe not needed to be welded on. Do you mean bracket to axle or just those spacers to bracket. Anyhoo, this project has been a bit of a nightmare from the start. The initial wrong size of radius arm mount was easily sorted with grinder and welder. Then when I went to fit up I discovered that they had sent out an offside spring mount instead of nearside. They sent out a new one. Then I fitted up by bolting everything in place. However I did not have the 14mm Panhard bolts yet so used one I had previously cut off. BIG MISTAKE ! These bolts did not now reach right through to the fixing point resulting in a slight bend (rotation), which in turn tilted the position of the radius arm mount forward. Thinking all was fine I tacked up then removed the radius arm and panhard rod for access. Welded everything up. Tried to put the bolts back in and they would not line up, even though I had both new radius arm bolts in, only one of them and the nearside panhard one would now fit !! So what I thought was a time consuming but accurate job was a balls up ! New mounts ordered another evening of cutting off, a morning dismantling and afternoon welding beckons This time I will leave the bloody thing bolted together ! Good thing I like working on the Land Rover.

In this case i shoudnt have measured at all, just went with the chassis number! May not be so bad though. I realised that the correct fit is achieved by placing the spacers on either the inside or outside of the bracket. They are held in place by two small welds. After consulting with YRM they confirmed this. I should be able to get them off. Yeehah.

In trouble now. After measuring I decided I had the 47mm radius arm so ordered, received and painted parts. Off work again now and further research suggests I have the wider ones ! Chassis number LA933484. Remeasuring the actual mount and it's about 52mm but maybe pulled in a bit by the bolt tension. ? Going to have to bite the bullet and order the thicker ones now ! Should have spent more time checking instead of rushing.

Thanks, people.It is indeed the radius arm bracket that's split along with the bump stop bracket ( the bit to the left ) I am able to weld up a new bracket. I think that one got a patch up last year on the right hand side, looks like the bump stop bracket took one bump too many. I think I might be as well to order the item that has the bum stop, radius arm and panhard bracket all together. Only thing is there's two options. 47mm and 54mm.

1993 Defender 90 200 TDi After getting through the winter with no problems, the Defender presented me with one today. Whilst driving at around 50mph and after hitting a dip in the road I noticed a wobble on the steering. On the way back at the same point in the road there was a more noticeable shudder. Inspection at home revealed this. Its on the passenger side. Appears to be snapped all along the top and down the right hand side, but as I have not yet managed to research what it looks like all cleaned up I'm not sure yet. Question is, whether to 1. clean it up and weld in situ or 2. remove axle and total repair, 3. Remove axle buy prefabbed replacement (if available) and weld ? By the way, what is it called ? Radius arm mount point ? I know this is one part but what's the bit on the left and how do they go together ? http://www.yrmlandrover.com/epages/BT3575.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT3575/Products/042AB

So it's the two bolts in the middle right of the picture ( maybe more hidden bolts ) ?

Thanks Mike. I should have read back through the posts. Not going to get back at for for a week or two. In the meantime have added a shifter (adjustable spanner ) to my Defender bag

A couple of weeks later and I couldn't get low again. Just removed the middle seat box cover this time. After some adjusting it appears I'm only going to get EITHER high or low when using the normal method of shifting. If I use a shifter I can select HI or Low with ease. There seems to be an awful lot of dead space between the few millimetres it need to click into either high or low and the stick just runs out of travel before it gets there.

Nice weather today so got the tunnel off, cleaned everything up, found the adjuster and move the nut along by about 4 threads. Everything OK now

1993 Defender 90. After not using low ratio all year, I attempted to rngage it and just felt a spongy resistance. No sound effects as she tried to find her way in so I'm guessing its a problem with the linkage. Before I lift the mats and remove all my recently replace soundproofing and the tunnel, are there any usual suspect parts I can order so as not to have to put it all back together, order the parts and take it all apart etc again ? Anyone got any pics of the low - high linkage and what to replace/adjust ? PS. Still working on the electrical problem

The bullets are the ones I fitted so are brand new. Not too keen on the scotchblocs but didn't know it was there until I took the lamp out ! I'll have another look when I overcome my latest problem, flat battery from leaving the radio on all week ! Thanks for the suggestions.

I had an intermittent problem with the wipers coming on whenever I switched on the headlights or indicated left. This came and went despite a lot of fiddling, pulling and beard scratching. Things came to a head last week when the headlamps would not work. The sidelights were OK but nothing on the heradlamps, although there was also no wiper swipe Checking the connectors I found one was a wee bit melted. I replaced connectors and bulbs on both sides just so I had a fair starting point. Now, I still have no headlamps ! I'm beginning to think there may be a problem with the stick on the column, what can I check before replacing this ?