Gringo

Those ARE the rear brakes. I can find the Land Rover part numbers, I just can't buy them off the shelf, it seems, in the British Overseas Territories, and can't cross reference them to anything in the USA. Surely, those hydraulic calipers were built by a company that builds hydraulic calipers...and presumably they sold them to someone besides the people building Defenders?/

That is SO tantalizing. It gives me a nice list of other manufacturers, but they are all in Europe, I think. None that NAPA in the US carries. I ran a search on the rear pads, using Comlines number ADB01078, and they list all the Defenders that they fit, and at the end of the list, they show an application for "Range Rover", but the line is incomplete. IT shows engine as "NaN" and then "2497" under cc/displacement. But no year. IF Land Rover used the same brake calipers on anything other than the Defenders, I could find them here! Discos, Freelanders, and Range Rovers were all imported into the USA. If I knew that my 2005 Defender used the same brake as say, a 2004 Range Rover, life would get simple. I would just tell NAPA I needed brakes for a 2004 Rover, and THAT is something they can look up in their USA database. Does that make sense? Can you think of some clever way to find out all of the vehicles that the LR part number SFP000280 is used on, for example? thanks for all the help, by the way.

In my policy of following up every lead, I got onto Delphi's website. I clicked Europe as the destination, and then Land Rover, and then 2005....and it listed three vehicles, none of which were Defenders. So then I entered your part number LP0777 in their search engine, and got the message "No products matched your search criteria". so, I'm still at a dead end, there.

Thats a good idea. I might try that. In the past, NAPA here have only been able to try to look things up on computers. They're not mechanics, themselves. Not a lot of practical experience in matching parts. Am I right in that the front and rear are different? Do these numbers look right: SFP000260G and SFP000280G? Things rust up pretty bad here. It's essentially like living and driving on a beach 365 days a year. Once I have the original boxes from P2 TRW I should be okay going forward. Worst is when the vehicles sit for a week or longer. everything that was shiny ( rotors) gets a layer of surface rust, which then acts like abrasives to the pads. These are really low mileage, but hard miles, every one.

Yes, I understand. I have managed to find what I think are the right numbers (SFP0002501 and 260P) and have written Rimmer Bros to see if I have it right. But shipping them from the UK will be incredibly expensive. 40% import duty, etc. When I get them, I will just read the real number off of the box and write it down for when the other truck needs them. Thanks for trying. It's frustrating for me to have to import them from Europe when there are likely a few sets sitting about five miles from here, with no apparent way to find all of the vehicle brands that a given caliper is used on.

Thanks. I stumbled around in there a while. It gives me the Land Rover part numbers, okay, but I think what I am trying to find is the original manufacturer of the calipers, and their part number. If they were, for example, a BorgWarner xxxx, I might be able to find a Ford or Toyota that uses a BorgWarner xxxx and then I could get NAPA to look up the pads for me. I wouldn't think LR is machining unique brake calipers? Surely they buy them from someone.

I should have put Brakes in the topic. Can I edit that? I have an unusual situation. I live in a British Overseas Territory and have two Defenders, but the only DIY parts supply stores here (NAPA, CarQuest) cannot reference any post 96 Defender parts at all in their databases. They are US companies. If I can find out the original manufacturers part number, sometimes they can supply it, if it's also used on vehicles imported to the USA. That said, I need pads all around on our '05 110 wagon. Any help appreciated.

I still think it's too coincidental that this problem cropped up the first time I tried to start the Defender after replacing that brake line that runs from under the master cylinder back along the top of the chassis to where it splits for the rear axle. Is there any kind of switch or wiring that could stop the truck from starting if I snagged it trying to fish the old brake line out, or the new one in? That would be basically any kind of safety switch wiring along the chassis between the firewall and the radiator. I don't know of any interlock switches to prevent the starter from operating, but thought I should ask. If I put a volt meter on earth and on the little single pole connector on the solenoid, should I see 12 vdc there when the key is turned to the Start position?

Well, I noticed there are three relays under the passenger compartment fuse panel, at least I think they are relays. Four connector plug in's? Yellow plastic boxes about an inch on a side? but the little images on the drawing of what they are for do not indicate anything to do with the starter. And that page of the manual is completely blank, telling me to refer to the little drawing on the fuse panel cover. I went and swapped the middle and right relays to see if it made a difference. It did not.

Well, that's good to know. thanks. The only circuit diagrams I can find online are from an older time, I found several things different. Are the fan resistors physically at the fan or are they at the switch? I haven't started taking the ac apart yet.

It's now been over a month since I installed the new 100 amp alternator. Things have been great. the long time warning light has gone away. Things that didn't work well ( intermittent wipers) now seem to work great. The radio did not work, and now it does. Recently, we have noticed that the air con fan only works in the high position. This pre-dated the new alernator. Which didn't miraculously cure it as it seems to have done with the other stuff. Then on tuesday, when I went to start the motor ( after changing a rusted out brake line) it would not start. Nothing happened when I turned the key. no clicks. Dead. BUT the wipers and radio worked. I checked battery voltage ( 12.56) and the 30 amp fuse under the drivers seat, nothing amiss. Then the last time I turned the key, it started. It started maybe a half dozen times as though nothing were wrong. Then this morning, again, dead when I turn the key. I would be appreciative if anyone could point me in the most likely direction. Is there a starter relay, I suppose? Would a short in the fan switch somehow translate to a starting issue? Help! Thank god we've got the 90 while the 110's down.

Yeah? Whassat? how much? can i get two of them?

Ah, thank you. I have also noticed that they are happy to ship to various post codes, but there is no mention of using FedEx or UPS. Postal service is no good here. So I suspect I am going to have to keep looking for a supplier. Is the 4248 worth the extra money for 100 amps? I don't run any off road lights or winches, etc. but it would be nice if the headlamps burned a bit brighter. Lets face it, stock Defenders lose the night-blind war with the local drivers every time, with those pale yellow headlamps. (Locals here don't use dimmer switches or turn signals. and they are not required to.)

Well, the problem I am having is that North American companies don't have any references in their data bases to any Defenders after 96. So the moment I get someone who asks me "What vehicle is this for?" when looking for a part....I know I am screwed. The next line from them is invariably..."We don't stock parts for that vehicle". It's really frustrating. I have gone through this several times, and still haven't learned to lie about what I want the part for. I'll try finding an AMR 4249 instead, when the internet bozos open again tomorrow ( Monday). Was that manufactured by Denso? By the way, I called the local NAPA auto parts store yesterday, and they told me they had the alternator in stock! At only $ 1,067. Funny, huh? The only good news there is that they don't know what the hell they are talking about. They don't have it in stock, and don't know how to use their own software. But they would have been happy to sell me an alternator for eleven hundred dollars. Its not all Corona commercials, living in a small tropical island nation. I just noticed that the alternator listed on LRdirect.com is a AMR4249R.....instead of an AMR4249 without an R. Can someone tell me what the R is and if I need that version?

Wow. I put "AMR 3412" into Google, and don't come up with ONE single vendor for this part number. Sigh. this is going to be another one of THOSE, isn't it.

Ah, AMR3412 seems to be the right one, according to that manual, and assuming they didn't change them over the years. Thank you very much. Now,if I can just find something that was imported to North America that also used that alternator, I might be in luck.

Looks like one of my alternators has packed up again. I just spent a couple hundred bucks six months ago for someone to rebuild it. The charge light never did go out. So I am thinking it had some diode issues, too, but in any case, I am tired of worrying about it. Can someone tell me what the correct part number for the alternator would be for a 2005 TDi? I found a place in the US that sells REPT330114 but when I look that number up I get a reference to Toyotas online. IF that's the correct number, and it's also a Toyota part, I could probably find one here.

Yes, they look remarkably similar to that 3290. Nothing much like the other one. So I suppose this tool kit might have been originally issued with an older vehicle? We bought this one from a local construction company. I am sure they have been using Defenders for close to 15 years here. Well, I could certainly use something to keep water out, but my primary problem is the transmission brake. I am about to have to take one apart, again. This will be the third time. It seems a common problem for all that brake drum stuff to get stuffy after the wet season. Thanks for the info on the wading plugs. I thought they must be something along those lines. Useless to this vehicle, I suppose. The pre-85 spanner still works to tighten battery terminals, anyhow.

Whilst ( see I am picking up Brit already) rummaging through the little tool kit that came with our second hand '05 Defender 110...I noticed for the first time two very small threaded plugs in their own stretchy elastic storage loops. I did not recognize them, from my experiences underneath our two Defenders so far. I am wondering if they are something that should have been installed ( similar to 'wading kit' options) or are they spares for something vital that gets lost or damaged frequently??? Now I am all worried about it. Should these plugs be in? Should I be inspecting the originals that these might be spares for? IS there an airworthiness directive? Are lives hanging in the balance.... actually, I was just curious. Can someone tell me what these little square drive, threaded plugs in the tool kit are?

Aha! I never realized they were females!!! Thanks for the heads up. And back to the shift knob bushings....I assume mine are both gone useless, since the knobs wobble around like a politican's morals. Is there something common I could use to replicate them?

Okay, all done. Modified the shift linkage as the little flat clips that LR used were fused flakes of rust. Part of the problem. For anyone in a similar situation, what I did was drill the rod and use stainless cotter pins. Works better now than it did when new. can post photo of that if anyone is interested. It'll be on the blog by monday, anyhow. Last question in this series... What do you guys use to secure the shift lever knob on the tranny? The ones on both our Defenders are loose, and feel like they were stuffed full of some gooey stuff. Is there supposed to be a threaded piece in there?

I was finally able to do without the 90 long enough to take it apart. Got the transmission tunnel off. My god, the rust and corrosion! Found the major problem on this one. The little rod that pushes outward against the flat vertical bar in the linkage ( the bit that goes back and forth when shifting into diff lock and back) was frozen solid. So I took the entire lever and shifter assembly off the top of the transfer box, and after a lot of loving care with penetrating oils, hammers, and varying degrees of vocabulary, it's freed up!! Did you know the teeth on US Vise Grips just exactly mesh with that gear thingy that the collar goes around? Anyhow, next question: There was a very small brass looking bolt holding the diff shift rod to the flat bar bit of the linkage. It broke in half. It looks to be something special, with a locking nut on it. The chances of me finding something like that here are nil. Does it have to be that particular bolt? Is there anything I need to know about it? I was thinking of replacing it with a small stainless one, which would be completely threaded of course. If a soft brass one is okay, wouldn't stainless work as well? Is that rod meant to be snubbed up pretty close to the flat bar linkage that pivots right under that point?

Luckily enough, WD-40 is commonly available in every size up to one gallon cans here.

Thanks. The transmission tunnel is the thing the shift levers stick up through, correct?

Ok! finally! I have managed to isolate and remedy several sources of clunk. Loose shock absorber. Four loose bolts, rear propshaft to transmission brake, and a transfer box lever that was not completely into H. So now, I am left with two Defenders in which the transfer case lever will not go into Diff Lock. Any pointers on the best way to free these up so that Diff Lock works again?