Gringo

Thank you, Nick. You're a gentleman and a scholar, and I appreciate the offer. I've decided to just buy the entire head assembly in the US. It will work out to be less money as I can have it shipped within the USA to a stepson who is flying down for a tropical holiday in a week. He can get it in thru customs here and I will only be out the original purchase price. I think I have managed to find the correct mirror head from another site. I just get frustrated with that russian one. And I might have found the whole head in the US. Part number MTC5084 looks to be the right one. I hope. Now, if I can find out what those little metal rings are that hold the headlamp bulbs in, and work with the adjusting screws. Those rust away fast here, too.

Hmm. well, I got the page translated, but there are still seven Item 4's on the list. I guess if it's not green that narrows it down to just four choices of Item 4. Sure would be nice if someone referenced the actual part number that is imprinted on the part itself somewhere.

I'm trying to find the part number for the wing mirror. There is no mention of them in the workshop manual. Nor that number on the Britax web site.

Thanks, but it won't be seven £ delivered here. The freight charges alone will be two or three times 7, and then a 46% import duty at this end. That's why I'm trying to find just the small bit I need. Do you know the correct name or part number for it? I bought the workshop manual last time around, and just my luck, there is no mention of these mirrors in there. i'm sure there's' a Murphy's Law for that one.

The driver side wing mirror on one of our Defenders just went all loose and sloppy. Peering into it, I find that the iron yoke-like assembly that holds the ball joint together has rusted completely away. The rest of the mirror is fine, being mainly plastic and glass. Does anyone know what this part is actually called, and can I buy them as replacement parts or do I have to buy an entire mirror? Seems a waste, since I would just remove the clip and not use the rest of the mirror. I don''t want to take the hinges off. The mirror in question says "Britax" molded into the plastic, and that's followed by the number 00463. I tried a search on the Britax website, and it says that number is meaningless.

please pardon me butting in, but while this is fresh on your mind I wanted to ask if you think it's okay to drive on four of those bolts, right front wheel on a D-110? I broke one off when reassembling the wheel ( I was using an air ratchet and got out of hand) and it will be a while before I can get the correct tap and drill imported. I am hoping four of them are strong enough. Max speed limit here is 40 mph.

Thanks for the info. We're quite happy with the little four banger diesel. We get great mileage with it, and the max legal speed on this island is 40 mph anyhow.

Okay, That makes sense. What, exactly, is a TD5? This is a Tdi. 2.5 liter turbo diesel 4.

I've finally worked my way back to the rear brakes, '04 110 Wagon, and removed the 52mm lock nut. I have looked at the section on rear wheel bearing replacement in the tech section. Those photos show two 52mm lock nuts on the threaded pipe section of the rear axle. Mine only had one nut, and the integral long flange of the nut was bent into the flat spot on the axle. Is that normal?

Okay. I'm over my whining fit now. Huge frustration, but mystery maybe solved. I took an extremely close look and apparently sometime in the past someone whacked the caliper with something hard. The reason the piston was stuck in the first place was because the machined ledge between the two gasket grooves was out of round. It has a couple of flattened dents in it, such as would be made with a hammer edge. I ground it back to round with a Dremel grinder, and smoothed it out, but it's still deformed and I can see several hairline cracks in the metal itself where it joins the main body of the bore. I'll just have to find someone to sell me the entire caliper. Hopefully, already assembled.

I haven't even gotten that far yet. I have spent all of yesterday afternoon, and most of today trying to press the seals back into the caliper. I have now ruined the metal dust seals on the kit. But before that, using a large flat, heavy thick washer that covers the piston and the seal, I used three C-clamps to every so carefully press it all into place. And it went into place. And then when I release the C clamps, it just falls out. I finally got two of the pistons back in half the caliper, but only by using the old rubber seals and rusted up metal dust seals that I removed originally. I guess the solution is to just buy another entire brake caliper assembly, IF I can find one that comes complete with pistons already installed. Because I am 100% certain that this Bearmach ( I assume) kit is not going to fit. The rubber parts are too thick. The metal seal doesn't grip the sides of the caliper. I've wasted several hundred dollars and a week waiting on this damned stuff. I never realized this would be such a hassle, when we moved to a British Overseas Territory. And I'm not that bad a mechanic. I've swapped engines in different vehicles, and rebuilt all kind of things from Ford and Dodge trucks, to my souped up 68 Mustang GT ( 390 cubic inches). I've rebuilt several motorcycles. I've done complete overhauls, installed cams, main bearings, connecting rods. I maintained a Rotax engine on an aircraft I used to own. Mechanical things and I usually get along just fine. I've probably done at least 20 brake jobs in my life. This is nothing new to me. But I have NEVER had the problems maintaining a vehicle that I have with these Defenders. I am used to just shelling out the money, buying the part, and having it fit. Why is it such an apparent problem with these vehicles?

Yeah, I know. We just had a discussion about it all this afternoon, the wife and I. And we are definitely going to be selling the two Defenders. I've had enough.

Yes, I know. I followed that one. And the dust seals pop right back out. Now I am wondering if they shipped me the right parts. Does anyone know, offhand, if the Bearmach STC1280 is even the right kit? I had to use mole grips and a pry bar to the the two pistons out. Buggered up the top edge pretty well. Found out that they had shaved part of the square cut gasket off, and it was jammed in . On BOTH pistons. So I took a very careful look and see that the gaskets or rings or whatever in the BM kit are thicker than the ones that were in there. I'm going to sell these suckers and buy a jeep. At least I can get parts for a jeep.

I decided to rebuilt the caliper first, since someone is looking for the tool for me in the US right now. AND I have run into a totally different issue. I am having a devil of a time pressing the outer gasket/rubber ring and dust seal into the caliper body. I have been using a big C-clamp and a thick washer that covers the entire piston and seal. But when I take the pressure off, the rubber ring pushes the metal dust seal/retainer right back out. I have noticed that the replacement rubber gaskets are slightly different from the ones I removed. The new ones( "BM" brand) have one solid rubber one, square in cross section. ANd one with a skirt or groove running around the inside of the circlular seal. It would "C" or "U" shaped in cross section. Of course there are no instructions. Does anyone know which seal goes in which groove in the caliper cylinder? I've managed not to mess the parts up too much, yet, but only just barely. Right now I am stymied. I have tried to religiously follow the article in the tech section here, and yet when I remove the C clamp the retaining ring/dust seal oozes right back up.

That was actually my Plan B, if I can't find a tool already in existence here that will do the job.

yes, US supply is easier for us. We're only about 500 miles south of Florida, and there are half a dozen flights from Miami a day. From US I can get it in 24-48 hours, in a pinch. I pay for it, though. And with 'free shipping' offers in the US, I can buy that $ 30 socket and have it shipped to one of the kids, who will surreptiously slip it into his baggage when he comes down for the holidays. Our kids flee the ice and snow and come to the sunny tropics for Christmas. We make a tree out of a driftwood stump, etc. It's just bad luck for me that there are no new Defender parts in the US for anything later than '97. I got the front discs from D.A.P. in the US They are GREAT to work with, by the way. The rear discs and pads and pistons are coming from Paddocks. I ordered them all the same day, early last week. The heavier front discs from D.A. P. arrived on Friday, for example. The Paddocks parts are not here yet.

Yes! THIS I have in stock. Thank you for that suggestion. I'd love to order the Amazon socket, and probably will, eventually, but it would take a week or so to get here, and the cost would be more like $ 30 cost plus $75 FedEx or UPS charges plus $ 14 import duty plus $25 customs processing fee, so I'd be sitting here with my wheels in the air until almost Christmas waiting for a single purpose, $ 144 socket..... I checked Amazon in the US, they don't show any 1/2' drive, 52mm deep sockets. I might have a 3/4" drive on my little impact drive, not sure. but I have a great big solid breaker bar in 1/2" I would love to use if I went that route. Hopefully I can break it loose with the pipe wrench without too much damage. I am thinking a couple aluminum shims between the pipe wrench teeth and the nut might protect it,if it's only torqued to 37 ft. lbs. I am actually pretty self sufficient for most tool related things. I have to confess, though, that doing all the maintenance and repair work on these two Defenders drives me batty. I hate never knowing what kind of wrench to start with, SAE or metric. I have combined all my wrenches and sockets in one tool box so I don't have to keep going back and forth. And keeping them sorted in one tool box is another problem altogether. But I do get confused. For example 2 inches does not equal 52mm. Edit: I just found that Amazon socket in the US. I can get one down here via smuggling as we have sons coming to visit for the holidays. Still, doesn't help me today. I am thinking I might be able to find a 2" open end/box end spanner ( did I get the term right?) at a local store. It would be cheap Chinese but I've found their tools to be okay as long as they don't have any moving or removable parts. Chinese made anvils work well, for example. And hammers. Softer than I would like, but still, they have the mass metal and casting thing right, at least.

I'm in the early part of the learning curve replacing/rebuilding all my brakes on a '05 110 wagon, Tdi. I just managed to get the right front caliper off, and have it split on the bench with frozen pistons soaking in PB Blaster. I am betting this truck will stop a lot easier if I get all the pistons working. Anyhow, I have new front discs for it, and wheel bearings, but can't get the assembly off because of that large hub nut. I don't have any wrenches or spanners, or sockets, or even Vice Mole Grips that will fit and turn it. I measured it, and it looks like it's 2 inches across, or maybe that should be 51 mm? In any case, I don't have much faith in being able to find something to fit it properly. I really do not want to take a cold chisel to it. It's in perfect condition, at the moment. Has anyone come up with another way to get those hub nuts off using something other than the right tool? I am considering cutting a wrench out of plate steel, but that would set me back a day, probably. I'd have to start by finding some steel. Then buying something to cut it with. etc. If I needed to call around to try to find the right tool, what would I call it? A two inch socket?

the corrosion is unbelievable. this past weekend a visitor stepped on one of the folding steps that came with the 110 and it collapsed from rust under the rubber cover. Our 110 has 40k kilometers on it, and the 90 has about 28k miles ( the 110 has a metric only speedo) and both of them are essentially starting to fall apart, both 2005 models. It saddens me greatly, but until someone comes out with a fiberglass replacement body, I think I am stuck with it. We love the Defenders, but probably won't buy any more of them as they are just too expensive as consumable vehicles.. I suppose the answer is to just buy some cheapo vehicle that can handle the roads for two years, and trade them every two years. Also something that I can get parts for. Being in a Brit Overseas Territory, I had assumed LR parts would be plentiful. Not so. I might have to buy something like KIA or Jeep for the next vehicle. I can get parts easily enough from local auto parts (NAPA) or down from the US in two days. I had thought the aluminum bodies of the Defenders would be good here, and yes, the aluminum is more or less holding up except for all the fuzzy white aluminium oxide, but the steel....oh it's in bad shape. And the bodies are held together with steel. As I am sure you guys realize from your own experience. Keeping a Defender here is like watching your corrosion problems ( doors, hinges, body strips, suspension, exhaust, brakes) in time lapse photography. Thanks for all the help. D.A.P. in the US says they can ship me the parts for the front wheel brakes immediately, but don't have the rear brakes in stock. So I will get started with their shipment, and then hope I can find someone in the UK to ship the rear parts to arrive in a week or so. We have a truckload of sons coming to visit for the holidays, and I have found that bad brakes get a whole lot worse when the 110 is loaded up with people. Now, if I can just find a good deal on replacing the soft top on the 90 with a solid pickup truck style top...

The bleeder screws are so corroded away that I have gone down a complete wrench size, and then the next time I just use ViseGrips ( your Mole Grips, I think) to turn them. I can probably find four of them here locally, though. I would imagine those are fairly standard amongst the caliper manufacturers. VIN on it is SALLDHMF74A684829. IF, and this is a big if,. the brakes are the same parts now as they were in 96, there is a chance I can get some of what I need from D.A.P. in the US. Saves me time if I can do that, as they can ship UPS here and I will get it usually within 48 hours.

Thanks. that makes perfect sense. I can easily handle that. And thank you for the suggestion on replacing the wheel bearings while I have it apart. Good idea. I am plodding long. I just in the past hour found out that by loading Google Chrome I can now translate the Russian LR parts site. Big help to be able to read it. I am now to the point where I am trying to find out which part numbers to put on the shopping list for the items I have identified from the Russian site dwgs: Front and read disc numbers all set, thanks to Western. I think I also will need: LH and RH shields wherever they are used. Pistons for the front and rear calipers Kit-brake caliper piston seal ( any ideas how many are in a kit? enough for one piston, or for one caliper, or for two calipers?) I don't know how many. Set-pad front brake system, and for rear brake systems, with same questions on quantities. screw-bleed valve I know these are all the same, as are the protective caps. Kit-brake pad retaining, for both front and rear, etc. And now oil seals and bearings, front and rear. At least I am making progress, with help. I need to assemble the order and then figure out which supplier is the best choice for export sales. Who takes Master Card, and can ship UPS, for example. Not everyone does, we have found.

Thank you, I understand slotted vs solid now. But is there a system other than visual comparison for determining part numbers? I am trying to avoid having to plead for help online for every little part of this rebuild. I need caliper parts. Pistons, pads, bleeder screws, some kind of rebuild kit would be extremely helpful, with all the little springs and new gaskets and retaining hardware that has been eaten away. Do you know of anyone offering a complete caliper rebuild kit? I think the caliper blocks themselves are serviceable. I can re-tap bolt holes etc. and have plenty of de-rusting tools of various calibers. A pneumatic needle gun , for example. I also have a small sand blasting cabinet and wire brushes and riffling files of all description. If the machined surfaces are still good, I can fix ugly. Thanks again.

Well, actually I need all four of them. But in this case, how do I know that I need the FRC7329 and therefore do not order the FTC902 by mistake? And back to the rear rotors, I am trying to figure out which of those four model numbers I need. There are two FTC's and two SDB's. On that second diagram, for Item 12, the Без накладок,RH,Caliper assembly-front brake, there are eight part numbers listed. I see there are prefixes for those, TRC and LR and STC and even an SEB. I really need to get my order right, because the shipping and import duties are going to make this some very expensive iron for me, and returning merchandise for exchange is totally out of the question. If I buy it, I own it. There is no such thing as warranty here. what system do you use to tell you which of these various part number options is the right one for the vehicle in question? Thanks for your patience. Once I figure out how which part numbers apply to my two Defenders, I can move on to a completely fresh set of annoying questions. edit: I just figured out why I didn't find the topic in my search. You use the term 'disc' for what Americans call a 'rotor'. See, I'm learning already!

Thanks for the help and info. I am running into the same confusion with that Russian parts site that I run into everywhere. For example, looking at their first figure, there are four 'item 1" part numbers listed, even through there is of course only one Item 1. The disc itself. I KNOW I need a front disc. What I don't know, so far, is which one? This diagram lists, for "Item 1" ( the disc): 1 FTC1381 Disc-solid brake 2 цена 1 SDB000330 Disc-solid brake 2 цена 1 SDB100980 Disc-solid brake 2 цена 1 FTC3846 Disc-solid brake So, how do I know which of these four totally different part numbers is the one I need?

The salt air and seawater and corrosion have finally caught up with all the disc rotors on our 2005 Defender 110. The rotors are scored and thin, and I have no doubts they wouldn't pass an inspection in any country that had inspections. I looked at the topics in the tech section here, but didn't see anything about replacing the rotors specifically. I'm fairly technical, and doing all my own maintenance on two of these ( a 90 and a 110 ) but I haven't had anything on the axles or brakes apart yet. I've fabricated brake pipes several times now, and replaced two clutch masters and a slave, and worked on various other bits and pieces. Is it a lot of work to replace the rotors and calipers or is this pretty simple when replacing old rusty stuff with brand shiny new ones? What's involved in replacing the rotors? Also, Would appreciate it if someone could recommend a good supplier that can ship to the British West Indies, once I figure out the part numbers.