russianfrog
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Posts posted by russianfrog
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2 hours ago, Mutley said:
I would say a bad earth somewhere?
Is the cd radio wiring a factory fit set up or has it been re-wired by you or someone else?
It is factory fit.
Any tips on how to switch it off or even unplug it?
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Hi everyone,
I have a strange problem with my radio/CD player on my Defender 110 Puma 2007: Not only it doesn't work properly, like it doesn't want to load the CD or tune the radio, but now it turns on by itself!
It is frustrating not to be able to listen to radio or CD, but the "back to life" thing (even when the car is idle, keys off, alarm on) is actually troubling me most: I am afraid it might drain the battery at night, and simply attract attention in the street.
Any suggestion how to swift off the beast? Maybe a fuse or relay to unplug?
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This is fixed! I texted the LR garage who fiexed the dashboard a few weeks ago and first thing in the morning they sent me the code.
The radio is not the orignal one but it is a LR standard one as the first one was faulty. It was replaced after a few weeks or months.
I'm glad it is over, it was rather inconvenient.
Thanks to all of you for tips!
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#1: It's on purpose, to keep the driver alert.
#2: Indeed it is useless because who needs a speedometer when you are approaching light speed?
#3: It's all about attitude.
#4: Absolutely, the truck is happier. Defenders are the only cars to wag their tail when on dirt road.
#5: Turning on work light is the only option: how can you accelerate while already on the highway at top speed (that is approx. 90km/h)?
#6: No idea, it's the same with tree stumps!
Nice pix :-)
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Wrong code: It says CDE0000 (not CDR).
I understand it is a safety code but how can I find the correct one? It was instally by LR, I have no paper whatsoever...
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Hi everyone,
For some time I have had some problems with the radio installed in my Defender 110 (2007). It switches off, freezes and so on. Nothing really bothering though.
Yet, today, it entirely switched off and when trying to turn it on again, a strange code appeared: CDR0000
Any idea what it is and what I should do?
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52 minutes ago, Lightning said:
Could you put a tube in it?
I don't think it would be wise, at least for balance.
For information, we're talking Nokian Hakkapeliitta LT2 235/85 R16C 120/116Q
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Hmm, so it means I need to get TWO new tyres then. One would not be of the same usage.
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The factory is being built in Slovakia.
I had the opportunity to discuss with a few people involved in the project and although they were careful not to say anything precise, one told me I should expect to be positively surprised.
Wait and see...
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Hi everyone,
I need to change my summer/winter tyres every six months. I go to a nearby mechanics who takes away the tyres from the alloyed wheels.
The last swap, he had some hard time getting the rubber off the metal and some pieces of rubbers were chipped away. (I discovered the situation only back home)
Here is a picture. Do you think it is safe to drive with it? I guess it's OK, but i'd like to have your opinion.
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Here is an update of my situation, and some more questions!
- I changed the battery. Indeed it never has been changed in nearly 10 years, so it was probably a good thing to do.
- However, I still have difficulties starting the car. I added additive (we still have a really cold weather) but the petrol station claims the diesel is OK till -32°. So in principle this shouldn't be a problem (I still believe the negin is simply cold and that's why I have difficulties).
In practice, it means the starter turns but I need to try several times before a puff comes out, and then another time before it really starts.
So, I wonder: could it be the air intake? I don't have any snow cap or anything of the kind. I always thought it was a joke. But now, I wonder. Should I at least cover the intake and clean free of snow before starting the car?
Or you think it's something else?
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Thank you for all your comments. Very useful.
I draw as a conclusion that I need to change the battery!
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For the first time in nearly 10 years, my Defender 2007 did not start this morning...
It's been cold last night (-20°c ), and already for the past few days I've had difficulties starting the engine: The starter turned round and round to finally launch the engine. This morning, two little puffes and then nothing. I'm afraid I've drained the battery now: the starter doesn't even turn, I only hear some kind of click.
I don't have any car with a battery strong enough around to help kick start it (I tried), so the truck stays idle.
So, I have a few questions:
- Does my describtion fits with a standard battery problem?
- How frenquent does a Defender needs battery replacement?
- Any tip how to start the trcuk without changing the battery?
Thank you in advance!
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I have problems with my front lights. They blink intermittently. I may drive 100km without troubles and then they starts blinking, sometimes switching off entirely for a split second. I have noticed the same phenomenon with the inside lamp, when I keep the door open.
For informaiton, I have had problems with lights this summer due to a faulty switch by the stirring wheel. It burnt and I had it changed. I don't know if this is linked.
Any suggestion?
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esr4290
That's the breather for when you're filling the tank, any fuel safe hose of the right diameter should be fine
Thank you both!
By the way, is it a common occurance to have this hose leak?
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Hi everyone,
I'm picking up this discussion to ask you if your trouble is about this small, upper fuel tank as showed on the picture below?
I have a little gazoil leak at the end of it, when it connects with the fuel tank. It's cracked.
So far, I have managed to "fix" it with some duct tape, but it needs replacement.
Anyone can tell me the part number of this little devil?
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I am thinking of painting the roof of my 2007 Puma which was then only available in dark green. What do you guys think is the best option? Chawton, Arctic Limestone?
Or they are all nuances of ivory white?
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From how I read the responses, the recommendations to 'Get a nice drift and hammer. Tap it out', and 'clout from the inside', are not intended to return the cover to it's 'before' state. Rather just to ensure there is some clearance to the rotating parts, and accept that you will some 'character' to your axle case.
Some paint protection to the outside wouldn't go amiss, but I won't go as far as suggesting a specialist diff guard is an essential purchase.
Regards.
I don't mind some "character" for the Defender, her ego can cope with it.
I'm solely concern with safety. If the truck can go on without repairs, it's ok with me.
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Thank you for your opinions. I understand this isn't as alarming as I feared.
I'll have the car checked of course, and hope nothing vital has been touched. I'm afraid the only alternative is to change the whole axle, isn't it?
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Hello everyone,
I've had the misfortune of mistaking a stump with some grass... I was not even off-roading, but it's true it was night, and stormy.
Anyway, next day, I had a look at my front axle and it looks like a Belmondo's nose
. Because there is no leak, and it doesn't make any unusual noise I went on with my 300km trip back home.I'm not sure how bad it is really. What do you think? Can I go on like that without changing the axle? Any one experienced anything similar?
Thank you for sharing your thoughts.
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Thank you both for your tips. I cleaned to the best of my capacity the dirty residue and added some DOT4.
I drove a bit, and it seems to be feeling better: the pedal isn't as weak as before, even if it's not back to it's orignal position.
I will defenitly have the slave cylinder checked and all the other seals too, but in the meantime that'll do.
All the best!
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Hi everyone!
I fear my Defender 110 of 2007 has trouble with its clutch fluid. Actually, the service guys told me to change the seals of transfer box, differentials and the kinds. But had neither time nor cash for it, so I've dragged a bit (5.000km this summer)...
Last week, upon going back home, I found the clutch pedal very weak. I still managed to go home (450km) but now I'm worried. I've checked the posts on the forum and others had had the same issue: the slave cylinder is probably the source of my misery.
I have checked the clutch fluid reservoir and, from what I could see (they were drunk when they designed the location of this thing?) it's not really full. But not empty either. There is a thick viscous liquid at the bottom of it.
Questions:
- Is the appearance of this vicous clutch liquid normal?
- Should I get a bottle of DOT4 and pour it in, or I do nothing and simply bring the car to the service to finally do the re-sealing?
Thanks in advance!
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I am looking for a simple manual explaining the basics about what is what in the car.
I have a Defender from 2007 and I wonder if the Haines manual "1983 to 2007" is what I need.
Do you know if there is an updated manual, or anyway the car remains prety much the same any manual will do?
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Pete that looks like a TD5 Type or later improved door (going by the seal and the high level light) so personally dont think it could be that. I cant see the AC making that much difference, and if so why suddenly then?
i am baffled to be honest
It's a 2007' 110SW. I was drivig on a smooth road, so I can't imagine the frame pushing one way or the other. I'm baffled too!
So, should I conclude this isn't very common?
. Because there is no leak, and it doesn't make any unusual noise I went on with my 300km trip back home.
Radio Zombie
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Could you let me know which one?
Sorry to be so incapable, this is why I ask for help!