Sabre
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Posts posted by Sabre
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My D1 Tdi needs a new seal-kit in the clutch master cylinder. How does one remove the pushrod from the piston ? It seems to be retained by something, but I cannot figure out how
Thanks in advance.
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No update on this ?
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On 1/1/2023 at 11:42 AM, smallfry said:
I take it that its not in gear ?
Nope, first thing I checked. And rear propshaft not connected
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On 12/26/2022 at 5:34 PM, Happyoldgit said:
If the transmission has been overhauled there will be more resistance there than if it were an older, well run in unit (even more so if the gear and transfer box have oil in them).
Both reconned, and filled with oil
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On 12/26/2022 at 12:05 AM, Bowie69 said:
You'll still be turning the input shaft gear, and the lay shaft -is the gearbox reconned....?
Jip, both Gbox and Tx were reconned
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2 hours ago, Alsace_rangie said:
Don't want to be funny, but:
Is that where the new resistance to turning is coming from?
Not funny at all, I need all the ideas that I can get.
I am not sure where the resistance is coming from. G/box and Tx are in neutral, (both newly reconditioned) so that eliminates resistance from that area. I'm going to try the ATF; that is the easiest starting point. If there is no improvement, I will need to look further
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On 12/21/2022 at 11:52 PM, smallfry said:
Another thing that has come to mind from past experience .........
Has it got a flywheel on it ? If so check there is nothing like a piece of rag or a dead mouse stuck behind the flywheel between it, and the housing.
Already bolted to gearbox...... I'm pretty sure it went clean into the bell housing
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1 hour ago, smallfry said:
I have just done this on an old Fordson engine. It was a little bit stiff to turn over and had very little compression (this is a story in itself ending with no eyelashes and eyebrows) but it worked. Left for a week, it started almost immediately, and now had lots of compression.
However, I do not like disturbing the injectors or seals, so always apply the ATF with a syringe and piece of pipe via the inlet and/or exhaust ports after removing the manifolds.
Did you try turning it over during the rebuild ? Was it stiff then ? Rebuilt or new engines are harder to turn than well used ones.
Whilst rebuilding, I continuously turned the engine. After fitting main bearings and after fitting pistons and con rods. All components were well oiled before installation. I will definitely try the ATF advice. Thanks
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10 hours ago, miketomcat said:
Yes you can put oil in through the injector holes but turn it over slowly after as you can hydraulic it if you add to much. Try using ATF as it's nice and thin but also has rust eating properties.
Mike
I will try that, sounds like a good idea. Appreciated
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19 hours ago, B reg 90 said:
Corrosion on the cylinder walls? Try using a mini snake camera to have a look through the injector opening.
Sourcing one would be rather difficult, but I will keep that in mind. Thanks for the idea
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I overhauled my D1 300 Tdi engine during covid, then needed a few odds and ends that I could not get. The engine then stood for about 2 years. I have now found that the engine is very difficult to turn over when I try to turn it on the crank pulley bolt. I have already filled the engine with oil, and want to turn over the engine to get oil through the bearings, and onto cylinder walls.
Can I give a squirt or two of oil through the injector or glow plug holes ? (These are not fitted yet, which makes the difficult turning even more of a mystery).
And, how does the oil pump prime ? Would it simply suck up the oil from the sump ?
Would appreciate your advice
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Looks the same as 300TDi
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On 9/27/2021 at 9:08 AM, Nonimouse said:
Try a Donaldson head first - it's relatively hig maintenance and does need a snorkel to fit to.
Option two would be to go Aussie style and fit a precleaner up on the roof - 200Tdi syle would do
Good idea, thanks 👍
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On 10/2/2021 at 7:21 PM, Maverik said:
So I found this when clearing an old library at work, I thought it hads some nice interesting stuff in it, so I digitized it and here it is.
Looks at typical crank shaft type bearing wear etc and common issues and what that looks like.
Cheers
Mav
Great ! Thanks. Always good to read the basics again, and realise what an excellent invention bearings were/are
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Interesting topic.
I think the standard 300Tdi Disco's air filter element is too small for dusty conditions. Having travelled a few times behind other vehicles on dirt roads, I got into the habit of shaking clean the air filter element every night. And I was always surprised at the amount of dust in the filter element.
When I re-bored the engine at 396k km, I could just get a clean bore at 2nd oversize
The obvious solution would be to fit a Donaldson, as per Defender, but space is a problem.
Would a snorkel alleviate the problem ? When we travel on dirt roads, the dust go much higher than the roof of the vehicle, hence my doubt about the effectiveness of a snorkel to reduce the dust burden on a filter element. I would appreciate the informed wisdom of this forum 😉
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A clever person once said "I am still to meet the man that has given me as much trouble as myself"
Boy oh boy, do I qualify!!!
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4 minutes ago, Maverik said:
I think I remember reading he'd sold his truck and was leaving behind land rover products due to ongoing health issues, I'm sure it was posted on here somewhere. Bit of a loss to the forum.
His truck was quite interesting, he'd retrofitted hydraulic lifters, and his roof was Aluminium and painted white.
Wow, that is very sad news 😢 He has contributed a wealth of information on these pages.
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I forgot about this thread😪
A year after this was discussed here, I lost the oil pump on my Disco 300 Tdi. Worn away the location tabs on the rotor, and chowed the crankshaft. I have rebuilt the engine but has not started it yet (Yip happened two years ago, and many stoppages has delayed my rebuilt)
I still think the 300 Tdi oil pump is not a clever design
Incidently, I haven't seen posts from Boydie for quite some time now, anyone knows what happened to him ?
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On 12/18/2020 at 6:50 AM, JohnnoK said:
I use Castrol BOT402, which is the equivalent for the MTF94.
MIDAS, MASTERPARTS etc should all sell it.
You can also go with the RAVENOL MTF-1 75W85, which is listed as a BOT402 equivalent. Call Freddie Stafford at Ravenol (021 447 3142), he will set you right, and they deliver anywhere in SA. It's also available in Europe, being a German product.
Thanks John. I don't think I will need MTF again in my lifetime; with the Covid lockdown, and very limited access to neighbouring countries, my Disco travels very little.
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15 hours ago, pat_pending said:
Is Europe really such a barren wasteland that you can't easily get hold of a fairly common transmission oil that's not exclusive to Land Rover?
Genuine question as I've never had a problem getting fluids for anything here in the UK.
Seems like a global problem ? Same issue in South Africa. I have had my D1 now for 20 years, and every time that I need MTF, it is a battle. Strangest case was a garage/workshop that had a 210 liter container of MTF. Sealed. The arrangement with the Texaco company (Caltex in SA) was that the business does not pay for the oil untill the seal is broken. And the owner, understandably, was not prepared to break the seal for 3 liters of oil.
I needed MTF recently, and it took me half a day phoning around, then waited a week for delivery
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Thanks for the feed back, appreciated
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Should I apply a thin smear of high melting point grease on the splines of the spigot shaft before installing the engine ? I have been advised not to, but I cannot imagine those splines taking the drive from the clutch plate bone dry
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On 5/9/2020 at 8:57 PM, TIPTOP123 said:
Hi folks just new to forum and to discoverys, have bought one and dicovered thers a leak from the Pas seems to be center front of the vehicle sort of just back a from the radiator
anyone no off hand what i can expect this to be
thanks
If it's a Tdi, the metal pipes can chaff through in the brackets that hold the pipes in place. I fitted two pieces of rubber pipe around the metal pipes (1 inch each) and then fastened the pipes to the bracket with a few zip-ties
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18 hours ago, western said:
That's good they only hold the outer sleeve & keep the bronze slider from twisting, there's always plenty of oil,on them, glad yours are good to use, just thought I would offer these up as they are just sat in a drawer in my garage.
If they're not in your way, keep them. Someone, somewhere will need, and appreciate, them when the need arises
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Clutch master cylinder overhaul
in International Forum
Posted
Thanks Snagger, appreciated. I have ordered a new unit