foxywan

Had a quick browse on the thornycroft's, think I saw a piece saying there's a Nubian fire tender in a museum in Melbourne, don't know where you are in AUS. I did find a UK model shop selling a fully working Nubian and antar models in die cast for about £25, might get one just to see the working suspension albeit on a small scale.

And apologies for the weirdness posted in my last couple of posts, pc gone a bit doolally Gary

<p> </p> <p> </p> <blockquote class="ipsBlockquote" data-author="Hybrid_From_Hell" data-cid="711024" data-time="1365020276"> <p>P38 <img class="bbc_emoticon" src="http://forums.lr4x4.com/public/style_emoticons/default/tongue.png" title=":P" /><br /> <br /> N</p> </blockquote> <p>I've only just realised but I quoted your own words from another forum! </p> <p><img alt=":blush:" class="bbc_emoticon" src="http://forums.lr4x4.com/public/style_emoticons/default/blush.png" title=":blush:" /></p>

<p> </p> <p>Long nose it is then and 2a diffs at that. Just looked under my 2a and it looks as though a PO has put series three axles on front and rear as there isn't a bolt on seal retainer. Knew the front was later as it's got the fat 11" drums fitted.</p> <p> </p> <p>Really fancy having discs for this project and have just found out that all long nose diffs fit all axle casings but may have to remove a Dowell or two.</p> <p> </p> <p>The number of splines could be a problem but I do fancy making and using portals so not really an issue, as I can make to suit my own needs. </p>

Ahh cheers for that Bill, saved me some more swearing in the future Gary

Yes but only the v8 has the four pin under its ar$e. The Short Nose 2 pin is fitted to all P38 Front and Rear, but the 4.6 V8 has a 4 pin Rear Diff as does the 110 Rear, the 110 front diff is a good old standard 2 pin Long Nose type unit Gary

Just an update..... I've been doing some rough sketches and have nearly finalized a suitable design for the layout of the rear bogie. Still need to do some plans to scale tho, once I've done that I'll take pictures and post for criticism. Also been researching reverse cut crownwheel's and pinion's and the cost is about £195 per set. Thought I had a brainwave when at one point, I pondered on using the front diff in the rear as that rotates the other way thinking that would be reversed....but no. The front diff is driven on the coast side of the crownwheel as design. Shocked at that. Only one diff in the entire LR range has a reverse cut cw/pinion. Can't remember which one now. The front diff is driven on the coast side of the crownwheel as design. But I found a couple of different documents and "expert" info regarding best of the standard stock and I've narrowed it down to the rear axle from a late 110 (think the td5). It has a short nose diff and is a four pin unit. The short nose should help with space especially enabling a longer prop to the rear axle. And from what I've read it's close to the strength of the Salisbury unit but a he'll of a lot cheaper to rebuild if it ever went pop Gary

Oh just out of interest what was the trucks behavior like on tarmac at speed? Gary

Wow Bill! You are a gentleman and a scholar! I wasn't expecting such a detailed answer than you so much. I hadn't seen anywhere how the bogie pivot was made and I had planned on using stub axles & hubs with the use of hub bearings and your suggestion of using the same gives me faith in my ideas. And yes I can see using home fabbed drop boxes instead of making t/cases fit would be better having a purpose built system. I'll be putting pencil to paper next drawing up the system and getting myself familiar with layout required. When I get this up and running I'll create a post and certainly keep you informed, Many thanks again Gary

Hi all! This month's lroi mag has featured a home grown 6x6 defender 110. This got me interested. And since over the last two weeks I've now got this urge to build one myself but on a series chassis after seeing bills creating from the 70's. I've researched and read probably every post on the interweb about creating a 6x6, and I'm not going down the through drive version but will be looking into adapting a couple of transfer box's into drop boxes over each axle. Bill if you're around to answer a couple of questions? How did you mount the ends of the springs to each axle, was they both fixed or one/both mounted on a swinging hanger like the rear spring mount on standard set up? And reversing the diffs meant driving on the coast side of the ring gear, but would a 2 gear drop box or even use of portal boxes enable the diffs to be used normally? What orientation did you mount the shocks? Did you use 2 or 4? And last one, how and where did the control rods/arms mount? I've got on order the book that your 6x6 was featured and can't wait to read that. This is in my system and now feel I can't not attempt this, it's on my mind 24/7! I'm going to be using all land rover components, mainly for easy sourcing but also due to cost and limited funds. Looking at doing this over a few years. Any info views and opinions appreciated Gary