SteveBo

Looks like a great job (and remarkably like mine with the tray and rear aerial mount with QR). I'm now looking at the IBS DB2 battery system, InfinteQ EMS2 (don't tell the other half). Cheers Steve

Could go bigger (only joking) http://www.torberry.co.uk/pdf/DS-SBE700REV02.pdf However, some of these are finger proof and have mounting holes so you may be able to mount the female connector permanently on the side of your battery box (facing downwards) to avoid having stiff cables poking out? Then just plug the male connector on your cables when you need it. I'm thinking of a distribution/fuse board on an extension lead for camping power supply and a set of jump leads for emergencies either of which can be plugged in when needed.

Brodit already have a couple of mount options for accessories ( www.brodit.com ) for the new Defender. One of these might take a gauge pod?

It would be a shame to spoil the dash by cutting holes in it and the Mud Pod won't work. I can't see from the Land Rover website what the 07 cubby box. transmission tunnel looks like. Maybe you could make up a bracket to mount the gauge down between the transmission and the cubby? Either that or one of those pods the Subaru/Evo oiks use. That's what you get for buying a properly designed interior, no DIY! Shame the InfinteQ EMS doesn't do fluid level (only empty or full) as this would give you lots of instruments in one.

Can't be sure but it sounds like you might have connected the back of the gauge incorrectly. I presume you have a 'dash lights on feed', earth and a feed from the tank sender. If you disconnect the guage completely does it cure the lights/dash problem? I also assume the sender gets its power from an ignition controled feed and has its own earth. The best way to resolve will be to disconnect the gauge first then just connect the lights on and earth to make sure that isn't affecting the lights etc. If you still have a problem disconnet the sender and see if that cures it. If neither of these works you may have trapped or snagged a wire when refitting the dash? Sorry if this is teaching egg sucking. Steve

TD5 spec interior with aircon as mentioned above. But doesn't look anything like my TD5 engine.

Getting around 370 miles from a tank on my 2005 TD5 110 (standard ECU). Comfortable at 70mph and on a 2,600 mile trip to Italy got 400 miles per tank at 70. Economy drops fast if sustaining 80-85mph. No problem pulling up hills etc. No experience of earlier models except lightweight (bed of nails) but it seems most improvements have been emmissions / road oriented so if that's your game I'd go for the latest model you can afford. Only real issue with the TD5 on the road is the sluggish acceleration when pulling out of junctions (occasionally seems to get bogged down at inopportune moments). Maybe an ECU remap might improve this? Insurance cheap as chips but then I'm in my dotage.

Or there's this... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=15999

Send me a PM with your e-mail and I'll send you what I have.

Horses for courses I'd say. If you are tall with shorter legs jacking the seat up will put pressure on the undersides of your legs eventually restricting blood flow and causing pain. In which case it might be worth checking out seats with more positions (buckets?) or perhaps lifting the rear slightly more than the front. Penny washers save us again... If you're tall with long legs and arms then Mud Rails or equivalent will move the seat up and back giving a more comfortable position (assuming no bulkhead). Still if it doesn't hurt it can't be a Defender. Any cure for wide shoulders?

Thanks for the pictures. I'm working my way through Practical Hydraulics at the moment. Who is the manufacturer of your valve? Cheers,

Mud rails worked perfectly for me (6'4") and I don't need to push the seats right back. Easy to fit as well but remember to phone them and tell them what sort of seat bolts you have (there are different types used). If you have a bulkhead you may not be able to push the seats right back though. You might also want to raise cubby box if you use it as an arm rest.

And spray the wife's car with gravel. Heh he.

And I've just run an accessory socket feed to the back of my 05 TD5 110 as well. Ho hum, always room for another.

Thanks for the info and taking the time for the drawing, much appreciated. I see your setup has a relief valve on the winch circuit but not on the accessory circuit. Does this mean if you select the accessory circuit without anything connected to it you could overload the supply side? I guess I could run a feed from the PTO pump to the front of the vehicle to a two way valve selecting either the winch or the acessory circuit. Then have a relief valve on each circuit followed by a load hold on the winch circuit. Next, the winch circuit would have a two way valve (with manual and solenoid control) to provide forward and reverse on the winch. The splitter circuit would require forward and reverse feeds but these could be managed by a valve on the splitter itself. Both circuits could then connect to a common return hose. I'll spend some time investigating this stuff and may come back to pick your brains if you don't mind. In the meantime, underwater chainsaws? Cheers

I think the threads vary between M4 and M3.5. As I mentioned I bought some cheap plastic doorstops and cut them down to fill the gaps between the cubby and the radio on each side. I used the cut-offs to stick to the top of the radio to stop it moving about in the casing. The longer screws (20mm I think) then fit through the slots in the cubby into the side of the radio (with a couple of washers). I'll see if I can produce some pictures at the weekend.

Thanks, it makes sense that I would have both since the same technology performs both functions. I've felt the ABS working under sharp braking on loose surfaces. I guess I need to be a bit more enthusiastic to get the ETC to kick in. I guess I was thinking of the old hill descent on Freelanders, Disco IIs when I referred to switches.

I have a 2005 TD5 XS spec with ABS. As far as I know it doesn't have ETC i.e. there are no ETC swiches or other controls I'm aware of. Does anyone know how I can physically check to see if I do have ETC? Just nice to know if I have something else that can go wrong...

Tray in position. Needs to be removed/lifted for service access to the ECU socket on my TD5.

Smart move. The tray is well enough made (its a plastic moulding and not too expensive). The benefit of this would be to have some power sockets installed in the tray. Then make up a lead with a plug/socket to connect these to the accessory fuse in the under dash fusebox. The optional cubby box sockets are on the back of the box so not so accessible for you. If you use Mud Rails you might want to raise the cubby box so the arm rest is at the right height. I used longer bolts (roof bolts with rounded heads) and some penny washers.

Forgot to mention the CB Mic extension. How about removing the bulkhead? You'd need to find another location for the jack but you would have more room to move. I don't know how tall you are but I'm 6'4" so the Mud Rails make all the difference.

Definitely going for the PTO pump. Thanks for the advice on hose sizes. Any chance of a 'circuit' diagram of your setup. I'm still struggling to get my head around how to run two circuits off one supply. Do you use a switchable valve to avoid the accessory pressure tripping the winch relief valve?

Had a go at saving the spec as a PDF and hey presto! cubby_20box_20dimensions_202_1_.pdf Below is the price list at 1st March 07 MOBILE STORAGE SYSTEMS - TEL. 01842 815179 ACCESSORIES RETAIL PRICE LIST as at 01.03.07 ITEM RETAIL EXCLUDING V.A.T. @ 17.5% RETAIL INCLUDING V.A.T. @ 17.5% 12 VOLT 4-WAY SWITCHED EXTENSION SOCKET £7.66 £9.00 12 VOLT SOCKET - MARINE QUALITY £5.11 £6.00 12 VOLT STRIP LIGHT £5.06 £5.95 12 VOLT SURFACE MOUNTED SOCKET £5.32 £6.25 12 VOLT TWIN EXTENSION SOCKET £5.53 £6.50 ALUMINIUM TAX DISC HOLDER £8.51 £10.00 ANTI-LOOSE LATCH - STAINLESS £3.19 £3.75 BACKSEAT DRINK AND SNACK TRAY £4.89 £5.75 BACKSEAT ORGANISER £8.94 £10.50 BONNETT LATCH £4.68 £5.50 BOTTLE HOLDER £5.11 £6.00 BUNGEE - 1 METRE WITH HOOKS £1.70 £2.00 BUNGEE - ADJUSTABLE HOOK £0.38 £0.45 BUNGEE - OLIVE - PER METRE £0.64 £0.75 BUNGEE - WIRE HOOK £0.34 £0.40 CAM LOCK - as on Cubby Box £8.47 £9.95 CARGO NET - LARGE £7.66 £9.00 CARGO NET - MEDIUM £6.34 £7.45 CARGO NET - SMALL £4.89 £5.75 CD VISOR ORGANISER £4.47 £5.25 CHEQUER PLATE LOCK COVERS £10.64 £12.50 CHEQUER PLATE STAY COVER £12.98 £15.25 CHEQUER PLATE WIPER MOTOR COVERS £14.04 £16.50 CLEAT HOOKS £1.02 £1.20 COMPASS £9.15 £10.75 CONVENIENCE HOLDER £3.40 £4.00 CUBBY BOX LIGHT £4.00 £4.70 DELUX VISOR ORGANISER £4.47 £5.25 DIE-CAST LAND ROVERS £2.55 £3.00 DIGITAL CLOCK £5.11 £6.00 DRINK HOLDER £5.96 £7.00 DROP LOCK - as on Cooker Housing £8.30 £9.75 FIAMMA STOWAGE POCKET £8.17 £9.60 GROUNDSHEET PEG £0.21 £0.25 HAMMOCK CARGO NET - 1200 X 400MM £10.64 £12.50 KEYRING £2.34 £2.75 L.E.D. AWNING LIGHTS £21.28 £25.00 L.E.D. WORK LIGHT/TORCH £23.40 £27.50 LARGE BUNGEE £0.34 £0.40 LASHING RING £2.98 £3.50 MAGNETIC CATCH £0.98 £1.15 MEDIUM BUNGEE £0.30 £0.35 NET POCKETS - LARGE (BLACK) - 490 X 195MM £9.36 £11.00 NET POCKETS - SMALL (NAVY & BLACK) - 300 X 195MM £7.66 £9.00 PLASTIC BUNGEE CLIPS £0.38 £0.45 PLUGS & GROMMETS £0.21 £0.25 PUSH-LOCK - as on Disco Side Locker £4.26 £5.00 QUALITY KEYING £4.68 £5.50 RINGED TIE-DOWN - ZINC PLATED £2.34 £2.75 RINGED TIE-DOWN STAINLESS £5.11 £6.00 ROPING EYE - BLACK £2.77 £3.25 SMALL BUNGEE £0.26 £0.30 SMALL ROPING EYE - STAINLESS £1.91 £2.25 SPRING HOOK £1.28 £1.50 STAINLESS 4X4 TOW BAR BUMPER PLATE £7.87 £9.25 STAINLESS BUSINESS CARD HOLDER £3.83 £4.50 STAINLESS CLIPBOARD £7.87 £9.25 STAINLESS COASTER SET OF 6 £15.74 £18.50 STAINLESS ELECTRICAL ACCESSORY PLATE £2.55 £3.00 STAINLESS IN/OUT TRAY SET £26.38 £31.00 STAINLESS KEY RING/BOTTLE OPENER £2.55 £3.00 STAINLESS LETTER RACK £7.87 £9.25 STAINLESS LOCK - SMALL £27.23 £32.00 STAINLESS LOCK - LARGE £37.45 £44.00 STAINLESS MEMO BLOCK HOLDER £7.66 £9.00 STAINLESS PEN/PENCIL HOLDER £7.66 £9.00 STAINLESS PIN LATCH - marine quality £8.51 £10.00 STAINLESS TRAVEL MUG £5.11 £6.00 STAINLESS VALVE CAPS WITH LAND ROVER LOGO £5.96 £7.00 STAY £0.98 £1.15 SUNGLASS HOLDER £2.13 £2.50 TENT PEGS £0.38 £0.45 TERRY CLIPS £0.51 £0.60 TRUNK NET £9.57 £11.25 TWIN CUP HOLDER £6.80 £7.99 UNIVERSAL LED MAP READING LIGHT £7.02 £8.25 VISOR POCKER ORGANISER £2.55 £3.00 WALLETS £1.36 £1.60 WATERPROOF LOCK £23.40 £27.50 WINDOW VENT FOR DOGS £6.09 £7.15 WORX HAND CLEANER - 1LB £10.64 £12.50 WORX HAND CLEANER - 6.5OZ £5.53 £6.50 WORX HAND CLEANER - SACHET £0.85 £1.00 Not cheap but well built kit.

Hi, I can't attach the dimension sketch, picture and price lists (probably out of date now) from when I bought mine since tey are in Word and Excel. If you PM me an e-mail address I'll forward them on. If you go for the fully loaded you'll find the whole unit is longer than the OEM box (TD5 2005). This was only a problem for me as I had already installed a Mud Tray which would be overlapped by the cup holders in the cubby. Since I have Mud Rails fitted my seats are higher up and sit further back so I built my own plinth to sit the cubby box on so it is further back and higher than the normal fitting. I have a President Johnson II (with the front speaker) in the cb holder which required a bit of bodging to fill out the gaps. I bought a bag of 10 black nylon doorstops and trimmed them down as spacers between the cb sides and the sides of the radio holder (with new, longer bolts). Let me know if you want more detail.