Paddy_SP
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Posts posted by Paddy_SP
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Thank you - that's what I suspected!
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I feel your pain...
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When I had to do this recently I modified a spare sash cramp. Basically, it was late at night and I'd had a long day. But I had an MOT coming up, and needed the cross-member out of the way. I therefore grabbed one of the many sash cramps I've acquired from various boot sales over the years and knocked the rivets out of the fixed jaw. I then turned it around and bolted it back in place. I then reversed the moving jaw too - i.e. turning it to face the other way. Once I'd worked out which hole to put the pin in, I held the whole affair in place while I tightened the t-bar such that it pushed the chassis rails apart. One tip - if you're lying directly under the cross-member while you're doing it, it may drop out suddenly. If you were stupid enough to not leave at least one bolt in place, it'd drop out and land on your cheekbone, leaving you with a nasty cut and a black eye. Don't do that. It'd not only hurt like hell, but there would be clear evidence on your face for at least a week. Only a numpty working too many late hours would be stupid enough to do it...
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Having lost the plot with the appalling quality of the replacement 'stock' door handles on my 110 (not lining up, cracking when tightened, etc.), I recently sold a kidney and bought a pair of billet front row door handles from Exmoor Trim. They are truly lovely - well-made, with perfect fit. BUT - the bleddy door locks in them are driving me up the wall. The new handles only take the long lock barrels, so as my old ones were fitted with short versions, I called Exmoor Trim to find out what model lock I needed to ask for. I don't know whether I just called on a bad day, but they couldn't tell me. 'Just ask for the long ones' was the best answer I could get. So I spent ages trawling around and found a place that listed the barrels in 'long' format, and ordered one. When it turned up I discovered that it takes a different kind of arm - in fact, the diagram (below) that came with the handles shows that there are actually two parts to it; the bits I need are those labelled 'Actuator Mount' and 'Actuator Arm'.
So - as these aren't listed on any parts list I can find, does it mean that I have to buy a complete cheapo door handle just to get them? Or are there some parts numbers I could reference?
As ever, any help would be most appreciated!
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Gentlemen - thank you for the benefit of your thoughts, it's much appreciated!
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Anyone? When I last looked - albeit a few years ago now, Disco 1s with no MOT could easily be picked up for £500. But they just don't seem to be about any more, so I have no idea as to what to ask for mine. Would £1,000 for a complete vehicle plus quite a bit of another be about right?
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As I'm out of touch with current prices, I'm looking for value guidance...
I took my D1 off the road when a mate asked me to babysit his D2 while he was abroad - he's now back so has re-possessed it, and as my Defender project is now done, I'm driving that. Since I have so many projects, it's got to go. I'm faced with a bit of a dilemma though - do I put aside my other jobs to get it through an MOT, or do I sell it as is? I guess the answer to that will depend on whether anyone is looking for a D1 project...
It's a P-registered 300 Tdi in Charleston Green - four doors, one sun roof; it has been modified for use as a shooting truck. It has an observation platform on the roof (so you can look over hedges when tracking down foxes), and all manner of other like additions. I have plated pretty well all of the chassis from the driver's seat back, and replaced the rear floor with thick steel plate. The sill area has all been done using the 'over-engineered' is good philosophy. Note: The photo of it attached here was taken a while back - it's got shabbier since then. Edited to add: The side steps are no longer on it, and the roof rack has been modified to go all the way forward to the sun roof.
The left side passenger seat has been replaced with a large dog crate fixed to a bolted-down platform.
It's rough as hell to look at, but has had a huge amount of money thrown at it - five good mud terrain tyres, an X-Brake disc handbrake, heavy duty steering bars, stainless exhaust, and so on.
It smokes (oil) for the first mile or so, but once warm is miles better.
It comes with a mass of spares - basically, I flat-packed another 300 Tdi that was beyond saving and kept all the good bits. To this end, there are spare wheels, doors, bonnet, tailgate, 120,000 mile 300 Tdi engine (minus the FIP and lift pump), seats, and boxes of smaller bits (I have scans of the log book, for anyone who would like to see it).
So - if you were selling this package, what would you ask for it a) as is, and b) with MOT?
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Yes, that was my plan - expensive stuff though!
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The problem is that the part that needs cleaning is almost inaccessible due to the combination of a narrow gap and internal ribs. My mate uses Sikaflex 292 on his boat and swears by it, so I may purchase a tube of that (if I can get a mortgage on it, that is...).
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There doesn't seem to be a problem with adhesion to the glass - it's the damned plastic that's causing the problem!
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I bought some Masterbond windscreen adhesive - but although it sticks to the glass, it just falls off the plastic. Anyone know what LR used originally?
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Thank you, Gentlemen - much appreciated!
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I had to do some work on my 110's doors today and was rather unimpressed to find that the PU adhesive that I'd previously used to bond the window clips to the glass had failed. I don't remember exactly what it was, but it's white. So - is Tiger Seal the preferred solution, or is there some other product I should be looking at?
As ever, any help would be most appreciated!
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7 hours ago, steve b said:
Looks like a yacht sail/boom rope capstan.
Steve
Agreed - but there's not a smidge of salt anywhere near it, so perhaps it was off a freshwater vessel?
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I have an old capstan-style winch here that is taking up valuable shelf space - as a result, I've decided to put it up for sale. I have absolutely no idea what make/model it is though, so don't know how to describe it accurately for the purposes of sale. I'd therefore be most grateful if anyone here who recognises it would be so kind as to tell me what it is! It's rated to 90 kg. SWL, and 130 kg. test load, so I'm assuming it's for something like a trailer? As ever, any help would be most appreciated - especially with a rough valuation!
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I've now heard back - the settings haven't been changed, so I clearly need someone in Devon who has a Nanocom to switch the relevant value. Any suggestions?
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That's a good question - I'll see if he knows what was done to his truck when he did the conversion!
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I've been loaned a D2 while my mate is off abroad - one of the things he never managed to sort out with it is that the dash symbol for the ride height comes on randomly (the yellow one with the up and down arrows), despite the fact that the air system was ditched sometime ago when it was reverted to proper springs. I'd like to fix the problem, so was wondering if this is a known issue, and if so, whether there's an easy solution, such as pulling a fuse? I don't know anything about these new-fangled Td5 jobbies... As ever, any help would be much appreciated!
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3 hours ago, western said:
On 110 loom it's looks like a in line glass fuse holder covered with a black soft plastic sleeve.
Thank you!
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As I have a stripped-out 300Tdi loom - albeit from a Disco, that shouldn't be a problem! Is it easy to recognise?
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Thanks for your thoughts - I'll try implementing the circuit as shown; any idea where the resistor and diode live on a 300Tdi (if they're in the clocks I can steal them from a spare set I have!)?
My instrument pack has a very good earth, by the way! -
Back along I fitted a two-wire alternator as my mate had a brand new one that he let me have super-cheap (since my rebuild was swallowing every penny I had). I'm now at the point where I want to finish the wiring. The 'thick' terminal is clearly the main battery feed, while the 'thin' one is obviously for the indicator lamp.
When I run the engine, the indicator wire shows around 6 volts at tick-over, so as the battery charge symbol on the Td5 dash is a 'negative on', the symbol stays off when the engine isn't running, and comes on when it is.
I've tried wiring a separate 12v bulb with the indicator lamp wire connected to one side and +12 volts on the other, but once again, this only comes on when the engine is running.
It appears to be charging OK, as the voltage goes up when I rev the engine.
So my question is whether anyone here knows a way I can get the charge light working?
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8 hours ago, cackshifter said:
So one possible solution perhaps simpler than attempting to change the sender and add a wire(I haven't tried this so I cannot say it definitely works) is to use a Spiyda module, see linky
Many thanks - I only just got a chance to sit down and check it out; it looks good, but I'm not sure I want a low-level light that badly!
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1 hour ago, Retroanaconda said:
Sorry I should have been clearer, there is a connection to the tank but only the level and earth wires, nothing for the warning light. The speedo head measures the ‘signal’ from the sender and when it reaches a certain point it turns on the light.
Ah, many thanks - got that!
Gearbox crossmember - how to remove?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
2, 4 or 6? That's not a common engine whichever configuration is was. Given the weight issue you mentioned, I'm going to take a wild guess that it was the latter. If so, I have a CBX1000-6, so understand the problem only too well!