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Paddy_SP

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Everything posted by Paddy_SP

  1. Paddy_SP

    The hard work pays off

    Excellent!
  2. Paddy_SP

    Brake servo booster or vacuum pump?

    I had exactly the same problem recently - when I put the brake pedal down, it continued sinking after a few seconds. When I fixed the leaking vacuum pump (due to oil coming out), the problem disappeared!
  3. Paddy_SP

    Just bought a metal detector

    The higher end detectors can be set to a wide variety of different soils/sands/moisture contents, etc. Indeed, if you've a mind to, some of them can be programmed to custom discrimination maps. I can't be bothered to do that with mine though, so just select the appropriate settings and off I go!
  4. Paddy_SP

    Second Row Door Frames

    SP don't have the frames on their website, but I've emailed them to ask if they can supply me with any - fingers crossed that it's a yes!
  5. Paddy_SP

    Second Row Door Frames

    I put off doing the doors on my 110 in the vain hope of finding some good ones at a sensible price, but as they're now holding the build up, I need to sort them. I've rebuilt the front doors - they were in the usual state for a '93 farmers vehicle, but after lots of cutting and welding in new sections (including various extra stiffeners) they're ready to go off to be hot-dip galvanised. When they come back I'll fit my nice new galvanised skins from SP4X4. Sadly, the second row doors are beyond rescuing though - having blasted the paint off it's now clear that the frames on both would make lace appear structural (if I shook them, they'd literally collapse), so no matter how creatively I look at them, there literally isn't anything usable. The s/h complete doors on the usual auction site seem to be priced at more than the cost of new ones, so before I have to sell a kidney, I was wondering if anyone here knows of a supplier for new frames? if not, how about some good s/h ones? I've already got the new skins waiting!
  6. Paddy_SP

    Plug Tap.... Engineering

    If all you want to do is clean threads out, then don't worry whether they're plug, second or taper taps - just buy whatever ones come your way (like at an autojumble or car boot sale) and simply grind the ends off. Depending on what Land Rover you have, you'll need them in at least 5 mm, 6 mm, 8 mm, 10 mm. and 12 mm They go a lot bigger in certain places, but those are the most common sizes.
  7. Tell me about it - my Defender project has taken years longer than it should have for the same reasons. As an ex-racecar engineer I can't abide corrosion, so fate really stuck it's knife into me when it got me into Land Rovers. Among heaps of other things, I've re-made half the damned panels in stainless steel to ensure they don't turn to white powder in six months...
  8. Paddy_SP

    Rubber Hinge Inserts?

    Thank you, that's most helpful! And yes, they probably are nearer plastic than rubber - having left them in place though, I can't say for certain!
  9. Paddy_SP

    Rubber Hinge Inserts?

    I bought four later Td5-style door hinges for my 110 at one of the Malvern spares days - these had rubber inserts where the forward fixing bolts go - they're coloured red or green depending on whether they're thick or thin (i.e. for the upper hole or the lower hole). I then bought some more hinges to make up the eight I needed, but they lacked the inserts. I can't see what the inserts are meant to do, and I can't find them on any parts lists anywhere. I'd therefore be most grateful if anybody here can tell me what they're for and if they're obtainable!
  10. Paddy_SP

    Nearly lost the Defender!!!

    Rebar (depending on what grade you're referring to) is generally nowhere near as hard as most grades of titanium unless it's been quenched or is made from some weird recycled steel scrap! You used the term 'inflexible' though, so do you actually mean stiffness? If so, the stiffness of a material is directly related to its molecular weight, in other words, if there were two similarly-dimensioned pieces of material, one made of ti and the other of steel, the former would be approx. 55% less stiff (give or take a bit depending on the exact chemical compositions of both) than the latter.
  11. My boy, Rufus (a Korthals Griffon), has a dog bed permanently bolted into the Disco behind the front passenger seat - in the first photo, however, he's decided to lie in the front seat instead. He goes more or less everywhere with me, but especially loves 'helping' me in the garage while I work on the Defender. He is particularly superb at running off with bundles of cable ties, and makes an excellent job of shredding any cardboard boxes I don't stash away on high shelves. He drives me up the wall with his constant whining, which translates as 'Dad, stop all this fooling around and let's go shooting' - but he's my boy and I love him to bits...
  12. Paddy_SP

    Nearly lost the Defender!!!

    One doesn't normally hear the words 'titanium' and 'soft' used in the same sentence! Ti is very similar (in the workshop, not the lab) to stainless as regards hardness, so would be both light (55% of the weight of steel) and 'strong'.
  13. Paddy_SP

    Turbo upgrade

    I've recently fitted one of these to my 110, but as I haven't driven it yet, I can't say how it performs!
  14. As per the thread title, I'd be most grateful if someone would be kind enough to let me know what the electrical component under the r/h front wing is. Mine (a '93 110) is so corroded that I can't work out what it is, and there appears to be no reference to it on the official parts list. It looks a bit like a ballast resistor, but since I pulled the vehicle apart some ten years ago, I don't have much to go on!
  15. Paddy_SP

    Electrical Component Under R/H Front Wing?

    Sorry - only just seen this... I will be custom making the loom using my own format as it's so radically different from the stock item that there's little point in attempting to follow the originals - also - and probably more to the point, I don't have spools of all the correct colours (and as the damned thing has cleared out all my cash, I can't afford to buy them...). So long as I properly document the result, it shouldn't be an issue!
  16. Paddy_SP

    Electrical Component Under R/H Front Wing?

    Thanks, but as I'm constructing a loom from scratch I don't have the aforementioned blue/red wires!
  17. Paddy_SP

    Electrical Component Under R/H Front Wing?

    Yes - that's the blighter - at last I can be sure what it is; many thanks for taking the time to post the photo!
  18. Paddy_SP

    Electrical Component Under R/H Front Wing?

    Ah, thank you, Gentlemen - that is an excellent suggestion! I looked at the dim dip resistor on the parts list, but as it didn't look anything like it, I assumed it must be something else. Luckily I won't need such a thing with my new LED lights.
  19. As part of the total rebuild of my 200Tdi 110, I've fitted a new alternator. This is an unused item with the part numbers GXE2598 / LR170-502 - a 70 amp unit which I got for a small sum from a mate who has a wholesale auto parts business. It took ages to make it fit, as the pulley was wrong, it didn't line up properly, and the main bracket had to be remade, so as I spent so much time on it and my mate doesn't have another I can try, I'm anxious to use it if at all possible. All appeared well until I tried wiring it up - as it has the same terminals as the original, I wasn't expecting any issues... The main post is connected to the battery via the starter with massive cables and shows full voltage. The earth side is spot-on. The other two terminals are shown as 'L' and 'S' on the various websites which list this model of alternator (one goes to the warning light, the other to the ignition switch). Both give open circuits when tested at the alternator with the engine off. When I start the engine, they both produce mid-12 volts - but I cannot for the life of me get either to activate the warning lamp when the engine is off. I haven't built the wiring harness yet, so the set up is currently composed of two wires directly from the alternator to the battery/warning light, so there's nothing else to go wrong. I've been banging my head against the wall about it - what on earth am I missing?
  20. Paddy_SP

    Alternator Wiring Issue...

    Sorry Chaps - been busy - thanks for your input... Anyway - I've finally solved the mystery. In desperation at not being able to get any sense out of it, I removed the alternator and buzzed through all the diodes. One was open circuit in both directions, so it was a dud unit after all. Having expended much effort (I had to machine up a new stay bracket as the mountings were different), I've now fitted a Ford Escort 70A alternator. And guess what - the warning light now works! My mate who I bought the original alternator off (for next to nothing) was good as gold and replaced it with this one for free.
  21. Paddy_SP

    Alternator Wiring Issue...

    Many thanks - that backs up the info I'd found elsewhere - as a matter of interest, what cross-reference did you use to find that link, as it doesn't show any of the part numbers marked on it, and yet it looks identical!? Wired up either way (L or S to battery) it still doesn't work though...:(
  22. Paddy_SP

    Alternator Wiring Issue...

    Hmm, many thanks for the suggestion - it's an interesting point; I'll have to see if I can find out - most of the websites that list it don't say anything as useful as that!
  23. Paddy_SP

    Door Hinge Numbers?

    I've got to replace the hinges on my '93 110 SW - I want to use the later ones as they're much more substantially built. I've got four, but need another four - they have 'BEF 030' (I need one) and 'BEF 020' (I need three) on the door halves of the hinge. The problem I have is that I don't know what models these cover, so would very much appreciate it if someone would be kind enough to let me know!
  24. Paddy_SP

    Door Hinge Numbers?

    Many thanks for the links - I still remain confused, however, as none of the parts shown have 'BEF' codes?
  25. Paddy_SP

    Door Hinge Numbers?

    Many thanks - unfortunately, the link you gave won't allow me in! Since posting my request I've altered the part numbers slightly as I realised the ones I gave were actually on the frame side, not the door side (i.e. I put 'BEF 050' when it should have been 'BEF 030'). A quick question - are the numbers on the parts themselves the same as those listed in the parts catalogues? I ask this because the original '93 hinges don't tally with the '93 LR parts list.
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