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Paddy_SP

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Everything posted by Paddy_SP

  1. Paddy_SP

    Stainless Spire Bolts?

    Having replaced pretty well all of the fasteners (where appropriate) on my 110 with stainless steel versions, I'm loath to reuse the plain steel spire bolts that hold the front panels in place. I've searched high and low, but can't seem to find anyone who supplies them. I therefore thought I'd seek the collective wisdom from this fine site - can any of you help me out with a supplier, please?
  2. Paddy_SP

    Stainless Spire Bolts?

    I meant to thank you for the link to a2stainless.co.uk, but got side-tracked (so thank you!) - I've used him loads of times before, and every time has been a pleasure - I will send him an email and see if he can help. As for the ACME thread form designation - it certainly looks though it could be - it would be a great help to know if it is!
  3. Paddy_SP

    Stainless Spire Bolts?

    Thanks, but the spire bolts we're talking about are not self-tappers - they are like 'proper' bolts, but with a quick thread on them.
  4. Paddy_SP

    Stainless Spire Bolts?

    Sadly, nothing appropriate comes up - I've tried it frequently, each time with the naive hope that I didn't look hard enough in the last attempt!
  5. Paddy_SP

    Stainless Spire Bolts?

    The spire clips in the YRM 'stainless bulkhead to wing kit' appear to be made of BZP, not stainless - at least according to the url for that item no '1013': https://yrmit.co.uk/product/land-rover-defender-series-bulkhead-door-hinge-screw-bzp-captive-nuts-pk-8-bhy500100/
  6. Paddy_SP

    Stainless Spire Bolts?

    Thanks, but none of the ones I've seen on there are anything like the original pattern, the vast majority being for motorcycle fairings!
  7. Paddy_SP

    Stainless Spire Bolts?

    Thanks, but I can't see anything like them on their website. Edited to add: I should have made it clear that while I can see the kit of bolts they offer, what I actually wanted was the original style spire bolt, but in stainless, rather than an alternative!
  8. I've recently done this - before I fitted the new skins though, I had the frames hot-dip galvanised. I then used PU adhesive to bond the skins in place, before applying etch-primer and then two pack Hempadur primer. I haven't got as far as applying the top coat yet though!
  9. Paddy_SP

    Outer Wing Replacement?

    I need to fit a new front wing to the offside of my 200 Tdi 110 - when I bought the vehicle *mumble, mumble* years ago, the front right corner was smashed in (as was a lot of the rest of it, being an ex-farmer's truck). Since then I've been slowly rebuilding it. I thought I'd done a good job of beating everything straight again, but today realised that the lowest point of the outer wing is an inch further forward than it is on the other side. Since this means that the metal has stretched above the wheel arch, it'd take too much work to sort it out properly. I'm therefore looking for a replacement panel - the ones from the 'Blue Box' company are unsurprisingly the cheapest option - as their products can vary from absolute rubbish to quite good, I'm therefore keen to hear from anyone who has used such an item as to what they think of it... As ever, any help would be much appreciated!
  10. Paddy_SP

    Outer Wing Replacement?

    Thanks, I'll bear that in mind when I do the flatting!
  11. Paddy_SP

    Outer Wing Replacement?

    Yes , but the genuine ones are silly money, and all the eBay ones I've seen are in much the same state as the one I've already got!
  12. Paddy_SP

    Outer Wing Replacement?

    Ah - I've just remembered why I didn't buy one from them before - they only appear to list a l/h front wing in the format I want (thick ally, 200Tdi, with holes)...:(
  13. Paddy_SP

    Outer Wing Replacement?

    Thanks for your useful comment - I've bought most of my other panel stuff from SP and it's all been 100%, so I guess I need to bite the bullet and prepare to wait for them to ship me one. Sometimes, their stuff arrives the next day, whereas other times it can be a week. I was considering the Blue Box stuff as it can be obtained locally and I wanted to get on with assembling that part of the truck, hence why I was wondering if it was worth a try. On reflection, I think not, so SP it is once again!
  14. Paddy_SP

    The hard work pays off

    Excellent!
  15. Paddy_SP

    Brake servo booster or vacuum pump?

    I had exactly the same problem recently - when I put the brake pedal down, it continued sinking after a few seconds. When I fixed the leaking vacuum pump (due to oil coming out), the problem disappeared!
  16. Paddy_SP

    Just bought a metal detector

    The higher end detectors can be set to a wide variety of different soils/sands/moisture contents, etc. Indeed, if you've a mind to, some of them can be programmed to custom discrimination maps. I can't be bothered to do that with mine though, so just select the appropriate settings and off I go!
  17. Paddy_SP

    Second Row Door Frames

    SP don't have the frames on their website, but I've emailed them to ask if they can supply me with any - fingers crossed that it's a yes!
  18. Paddy_SP

    Second Row Door Frames

    I put off doing the doors on my 110 in the vain hope of finding some good ones at a sensible price, but as they're now holding the build up, I need to sort them. I've rebuilt the front doors - they were in the usual state for a '93 farmers vehicle, but after lots of cutting and welding in new sections (including various extra stiffeners) they're ready to go off to be hot-dip galvanised. When they come back I'll fit my nice new galvanised skins from SP4X4. Sadly, the second row doors are beyond rescuing though - having blasted the paint off it's now clear that the frames on both would make lace appear structural (if I shook them, they'd literally collapse), so no matter how creatively I look at them, there literally isn't anything usable. The s/h complete doors on the usual auction site seem to be priced at more than the cost of new ones, so before I have to sell a kidney, I was wondering if anyone here knows of a supplier for new frames? if not, how about some good s/h ones? I've already got the new skins waiting!
  19. Paddy_SP

    Plug Tap.... Engineering

    If all you want to do is clean threads out, then don't worry whether they're plug, second or taper taps - just buy whatever ones come your way (like at an autojumble or car boot sale) and simply grind the ends off. Depending on what Land Rover you have, you'll need them in at least 5 mm, 6 mm, 8 mm, 10 mm. and 12 mm They go a lot bigger in certain places, but those are the most common sizes.
  20. Tell me about it - my Defender project has taken years longer than it should have for the same reasons. As an ex-racecar engineer I can't abide corrosion, so fate really stuck it's knife into me when it got me into Land Rovers. Among heaps of other things, I've re-made half the damned panels in stainless steel to ensure they don't turn to white powder in six months...
  21. Paddy_SP

    Rubber Hinge Inserts?

    Thank you, that's most helpful! And yes, they probably are nearer plastic than rubber - having left them in place though, I can't say for certain!
  22. Paddy_SP

    Rubber Hinge Inserts?

    I bought four later Td5-style door hinges for my 110 at one of the Malvern spares days - these had rubber inserts where the forward fixing bolts go - they're coloured red or green depending on whether they're thick or thin (i.e. for the upper hole or the lower hole). I then bought some more hinges to make up the eight I needed, but they lacked the inserts. I can't see what the inserts are meant to do, and I can't find them on any parts lists anywhere. I'd therefore be most grateful if anybody here can tell me what they're for and if they're obtainable!
  23. Paddy_SP

    Nearly lost the Defender!!!

    Rebar (depending on what grade you're referring to) is generally nowhere near as hard as most grades of titanium unless it's been quenched or is made from some weird recycled steel scrap! You used the term 'inflexible' though, so do you actually mean stiffness? If so, the stiffness of a material is directly related to its molecular weight, in other words, if there were two similarly-dimensioned pieces of material, one made of ti and the other of steel, the former would be approx. 55% less stiff (give or take a bit depending on the exact chemical compositions of both) than the latter.
  24. My boy, Rufus (a Korthals Griffon), has a dog bed permanently bolted into the Disco behind the front passenger seat - in the first photo, however, he's decided to lie in the front seat instead. He goes more or less everywhere with me, but especially loves 'helping' me in the garage while I work on the Defender. He is particularly superb at running off with bundles of cable ties, and makes an excellent job of shredding any cardboard boxes I don't stash away on high shelves. He drives me up the wall with his constant whining, which translates as 'Dad, stop all this fooling around and let's go shooting' - but he's my boy and I love him to bits...
  25. Paddy_SP

    Nearly lost the Defender!!!

    One doesn't normally hear the words 'titanium' and 'soft' used in the same sentence! Ti is very similar (in the workshop, not the lab) to stainless as regards hardness, so would be both light (55% of the weight of steel) and 'strong'.
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