lansalot
-
Posts
562 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by lansalot
-
-
Hi folks
Per my previous post, I think I'm almost there.
I know which terminal is pos and neg on the amplifier. But where do I wire it to? I've seen some wiring it to the alternator and earth, and others to both poles on the coil.
When I stuck the multimeter on the coil, I got 10.x and 1.x volts from the two terminals. Doesn't sound pos and neg to me!
help! End is in sight, if I get it going tmrw then I'm off to the races on Sunday!
A
-
positive to positive on coil and negative to negative on coil.
i think white it positive and white and black negative off the top of my head..Thanks fella. Hope it's clear on the amplifier which is which.. ;-)
(as I have no wires to it at the moment, I mean..)
-
Thanks Nige
Am currently keeping the distributor/carbs, just till I get the new cam run in. Megasquirt is all sitting there ready to go (I swear!!!) and I even found my crank sensor last night !
Do you know how I wire the amplifier on the side of this distributor ?
A
-
Ack !
OK, the oil-pump drive gears - where the roll-pin goes through, one is <1mm closer to the top. With the end-result that when we swapped the ends round and put the roll-pin back through, the old distributor with the new drive gear wouldn't turn - it was that hard up against the base of the distributor. Yup, they look identical, but the tape measure says otherwise. FFS...
Plan B - junk the lumenition stuff (blue distributor) and use the one that came off the 3.9EFI Rangey (till MS is up and running). So, that's the top pic above there then.
Can anyone advise how I wire the two spade terminals on the side? And what do I do with the coil as well? (I kinda need a potted history of coil/amplifier wiring in as simple terms as possible I think.. So much work to do before the weekend ;-))
Cheers
A
-
Megasuirt is sitting in a box ready to go - but I want to run it on carbs for a bit first as I have a new cam and I figure it will be easier to spark it up and run it on that first (just to bed the cam in).
Which reminds me.. I lost my triggerwheel sensor. Bloody thing... :-(
Thanks, I had thought the roll-pin would be the right way to go, cheers for that
A
-
Hi
Mid-engine swap, and as the ignition types were different, I went to swap distributors. Thought it would be easy, but the oil-pump drive types are different. See attached. What's my best way forward here - advice gratefully received!
Thank
A
-
Buyers fault. If he didn't hand them over to the courier, then I'd be blaming him.
-
If you've got it, keep it. Free locker !
Mine corkscrews a bit down sideslopes (or so I think), but apart from that it's good.
-
Mega-thanks to Fatboy, his socket and 3/4-1/2" adapter did the trick. Incidentally, the socket is marked 34mm and 1&11/32". It was perfect.
Thought I was gonna have to inject myself with porridge to get it off, but slid the breaker-bar inside the handle on the hi-lift and swung it straight over. Result
Won't be reusing that one in the future, "standard" from now on...
TRE, if you still want it, it's yours :-)
-
My mate has one on his 4.6 V8, rear mounted. Standard pump, mondeo cowl with twin fans. Standard apart from that.
-
My 90 with 2" lift and 235/85/r16 was millimetres away from clearing my traditional up-n-over door. Have a mate who's a joiner, so he made me a set of barn doors instead. Works a treat. The height the up-n-over takes is the bit I was needing - so you might want to consider a roller-door instead perhaps? Or one that recedes entirely into the roof space? Failing that, ratchet-strap the springs down
-
I've got the correct, deep impact socket here If your in this neck of the woods, feel free to collect or PM your address and I'll pop it in the post then send it back when you are finished.
That's an outstanding offer! I'll pm you my address, many thanks
Am in fact in Aberdeen this weekend for a stag night (paintball Saturday, beer later), but somehow I think meeting up and doing anything remotely useful or productive might well be out of the question after that
A
-
Thanks for all the measuring, chaps! Had to try it by eye coz of the depth of the pulley. Gonna be an ordeal finding a socket like that, will ask around. Can see me horsing the engine into a trailer and towing it round all the garages ;-)
-
OK, I did a little measuring. The engine going in, it looks to be about 24-5mm (and a 15/16ths fits well). So that's fine.
However, measuring the old one you see in the picture, it's around 32mm !! And I'm going to need a length of around 40mm to get over that shank to get to it. Nightmare. I just know this is going to be an ordeal already...
Does the 32mm sound familiar to anyone?
-
Socket it is. Any idea of size ? (he said, betting there's about a dozen different sizes...)
Oh, and these undo in the clockwise direction, don't they.. ?
-
Standard LR Method (Not endorsed in any way at all as it has the potential to do damage to you and your vehicle!) :
Fit socket to breaker bar.
Rotate until bar is about 1" under chassis rail.
Turn engine on starter (disable engine from starting too!).
That sounds a bit reckless!
(oh, wait...
) -
OK, I can bet the sockets I have aren't going to fit that. And if they do, it's going to be a person I'm not that keen on of a job.
Any tips here guys, how to get my pulleys off ?
-
Could you seriously hand-crank a V8 into life ? Front crossmember in the way a little too I bet.. ;-)
Can't wait to get home and find out more now. That said, I just can't wait to get home. Work. Only fools and horses, Trig...
-
45 minutes? I thought I was doing well at 2 hours, just me and Mr Fosters (4%, ABV)....
-
I haven't prodded it yet, but now I'm dying to! I had thought it was metal from a look, but something to protect the thread sounds more like it. If it is to protect the threads, then it's quite possibly the only decent mod the previous owner did on this truck.
(next-stop, replace the unpainted roll-cage section you can poke your hand through)
It's like the end of the corkscrew bit you stick down the end of your drains when the rods come out..
-
Crank handle? Seriously?? I better start eating my porridge then
-
Finally getting round to the engine transplant. Two hours of work (damn, aren't land rovers easy) got me to the stage of ready to lift it out. Will be moving various bits over to the new engine including the pulleys etc. I see a very deep socket is perhaps going to be needed to loosen the crank pulley (or do they just unbolt off the face?). But, I'm curious - what's the design on the end of this for?
I wasn't planning on rodding any drains with it... One-way drive for something (not that my engine is supposed to turn backwards..)
-
Good advice there, thanks BM.
Checking the rims on my stashed Range Rover classic... they're not standard and may well be wider. More options etc !
Cheers
A
-
Perfect, thanks for the help mate. 235s it is (again) then. Cheers
i think white it positive and white and black negative off the top of my head..
V8 amplifier wiring
in International Forum
Posted
Muahahaha etc. Relatively minor work to be done still, but the major hurdle overcome...