lansalot
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Posts posted by lansalot
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Folks, any help here ?
Tried using search (and google), but no joy.
I'm using a Prolific-chipset USB->serial adapter, and in PuTTY, it works fine. An "S" to COM19 gives me this back:
MS1/Extra format 029y3 *********
All well and good. When I start MegaTune, I get "The selected communication port (COM19) could not be opened", along with an offer to work in offline mode.
common.ini is as follows:
[MegaTune]
MTversion = 2.25
[Constants]
writeBlocks = off ; Default is on.
interWriteDelay = 1 ; Milliseconds delay after each byte when writeBlocks is "on".
(I changed delay to 1 from 5 - made no difference - as per the docs)
I had thought perhaps putty had locked the port, but it doesn't appear to. A full reload and straight into MegaTune gives me the same thing. I can start PuTTY any time and it works fine. Any ideas ?
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When at college learning MIG welding, the instructor told me a tale of a young lad on the previous course who having run a decent weld, stuck the torch down on the table - and didn't notice that trigger had pulled on, engaging the wire feed.
The red hot tip of the wire went through his trousers and gave him an extra hole. Cue lessons from the flute player on how to hold it.
ps - I didn't buy a word of the story really, but I am always bloody careful where I put the torch. Don't want the story to end up about me one day !
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I've the Gwyn Lewis protector as well. It's had plenty of leatherings and still looks like new. TRE will come out if you stick the wheel at full lock. If you must, you can loosen the guard bolts a little - no need to remove it - and the extra movement is more than enough. I've never had to do that however.
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Brilliant work James, this will be invaluable over the coming weeks for me
And a thumbs-up for the separate-forum idea.
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Jeepers fella - it's right there in google under "megasquirt manual"
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Thanks for that - I believe Phil loaded it with a default for 3.9efi already. Maybe tomorrow night I'll connect it to the PC at least and query it. See what's in there. Having taking several backups of the config first, just in case of any accidents
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Thanks loads for the in-depth explanation, it's very much appreciated. Narrowband it is.
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Narrowband and megalogviewer - OK, that sounds good.
However, does that mean mixture tuning can only really be done "offline" with narrowband then? As you're driving along, no laptop, does it still work so well?
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Also, anyone know if one of these is suitable for use with MS1 ?
It's either that or ~£140 from diyautotune or something...
Or something I can try and grab from the scrappies perhaps ?
Failing that, can I get away with a narrowband one, and if so any recommendations ? For a 3.9 EFI (was Hotwire) system, by the way.
Cheers
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Any chance of a copy of that diagram as well please, Jeff ? My stash of bits has arrived
ps. thumbs-up for Phil at Extraefi.co.uk for making the wiring tails all labelled. Should save a bit of head scratching
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Good approach at the front, rear a bit pish.
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Why not fasten the wings to tabs on the roll cage tube instead ? Stick a few tabs down the line, a handful of dzus fasteners and you'll never worry about the captives in the pillar going awol again ?
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had no time to give it the once over when i got it
Am guessing you'll make the time, next time ? At least post the guy's ebay ID here so others know to give him a good swerve for anything else he's selling !!!
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Take rocker cover off. Guessing valves aren't moving - it'll be obvious when you do that. If cam isn't turning, perhaps chain has broke, perhaps cam snapped ? One bank maybe sat with inlets open, other with inlets shut ? Exhausts opposite ?
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PLEASE tell me this was filmed and is on youtube...
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Hmm.. am re-considering fitting the auto now then. At the moment it's RV8/LT85 - was going to RV8/Rangey Classis Auto (don't know number) - I had thought the lengths of auto/manual in this case were the same.
Might just stick with the manual for simplicity.... hill-descents had worried me a little. Loss of "drive" could result in a saucy free-wheeling incident. I'm aware that sometimes when plummeting it's a little hard to nail the gas, which in an auto you'd have to do to get the box/engine to hookup again ? You know it's the right thing to do, just that little voice in your head goes "wtf you doing?!?!?!?".
If anyone can advise whether the engine mounts (am sticking with LT230 by the way) will need moving for the new autobox as opposed to manual, then I might just keep the LT85 where it is, only swap the engines and save on a bit of fabrication...
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http://www.autobloggreen.com/2009/07/30/ku...n-electric-suv/
Auto-deflating tyres for off-road, one engine per wheel, made from recycled rubber. Guess Kumho aren't just about tyres ?
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Another warning to welders... wear long sleeved shirts!
this happened about 4 weeks ago, and i now have a really odd tan line and my skin burns really easy in the sun.... not that we get much in derbyshire!
Ouch! First thing my instructor told us was to keep covered up, the UV that welding emits will scorch you. It's not just about the hot sparks getting all burny - cracking sunburn happens really quickly.
He also told us about the guy who was attending the college, put the MIG torch back down on the table and didn't notice the wire feed engaged. Until the red-hot tip of the wire burned straight through his trousers, underpants and gave him an extra hole in "it".... Cue a trip to casualty and much jokes about physio from a flute player who will at least teach him how to hold it correctly.
(Though I'm cynical enough to admit that that tale is probably an urban myth of course
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FWIW, the Range Rover box I have has the 1-2-3-D pattern in it - I presume that means I can choose to set off in 2nd should I require it, and likewise, I can slip it straight into 2nd and it will stay there, neither changing up nor down.. I don't think going Auto means giving up quite as much control as you'd think. Certainly, my Rover 827 worked that way.
As for Bowie - have you tried adjusting the kickdown mechanism, maybe it's not set quite right ?
ps. @ Fridge -
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Are these the same people as the seller then ?
(And isn't there a name along those lines haunting this very website....
?)(edit: not suggesting there's anything other than the most tenuous of links, naturally!)
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Was this ever resolved ? I'm intrigued
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I have tried, however, to get the back bolts slackened and the angle of the propshaft and UJ prevents me from getting the propshaft socket tool onto the nut.
You may find that you won't be able to get them all out from underneath - try attacking some from above (the prop drops, so there's more room if you stick the ratchet on top). Get an assistant to hold the other end of the prop up if possible, when trying from underneath. It takes a bit of jiggling, but it's easy enough.
Always a good idea to replace the nuts each time anyway, they're cheap and (so I'm told) re-using unknown-age nylocs isn't the best idea...
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Not counting the fuses - mine were in the relays themselves or inline, you'll need relays for the spots so go for fused ones - I got a simple earthing block from B&Q (like this, but about 10 terminals) for a couple of quid, and stuck it in a simple plastic box from Maplin. One wire in, 4 fused relays later and job done.
Yes, it looks carp - depends if you care about that. I didn't. As is pretty obvious
MegaTune not connecting
in MS-Megasquirt/Jolt
Posted
Thanks guys
was getting nothing at all with the drivers that came with it, but a trip to the manufacturer website got me a working set.
Am trying megatune with putty closed, there should be nothing conflicting or fighting over the port. Will try on main pc instead of laptop I think, see what happens. Will report back later.
This is all brand new stuff, never seen a vehicle (yet). Ecu from phil at extraefi.
Edit: thanks landmann - I read that link before buying and was sure to find prolific chipsets as it seemed good results had been had with it. As it chats with putty ok, I'm guessing the fundamentals are ok.
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