jimconline

As mentioned, I tested connections from control through to blower; I have and understand the wiring diagram. Problem is it cuts out and comes back on so randomly and quickly I can't catch it when it's off. As you suggest, I'm thinking it's the switch.

Any thoughts as to why the blower runs intermittently on high speed? Sometimes when I switch from low to high it works; other times it doesn't. If I leave it on high it will start and stop when it feels like it. Low speed always runs. I've tested connections from the fan control (replaced a couple of years ago) on the dash through to blower motor; no issues noted.

Yesterday I was able to fix the two issues—challenge shifting into 3rd and 4th and odd behaviour of hi/lo—with help from Dave at Ashcroft. The 3rd/4th gear issue was a matter of adjusting the bias spring as per the FAQ on Ashcroft's website. The odd behaviour of the transfer box was not so odd actually: just needed to adjust the spline (see photo Dave sent to me). I must have put it back together incorrectly even though I was careful to mark the spline position on the connector before removing. Anyway, all is back together and the Defender is back to running smoothly.

Lightning, I have been in touch with Ashcroft and they are being most helpful. I had some back and forth emails this morning with Dave who sent me info from their website's FAQs about 3rd and 4th gear issues and how to adjust (I've just fitted a rebuilt gearbox to my Defender, the third and fourth shifts are not very good. Why?) Was happy to read this and shall give it a try. If the gearbox survived unscathed through this all it will be a relief: it has been running smoothly since being put in. I agree, oneandtwo, about the transfer box. I still have the old one which was running okay if the new one is toast, though I can't help but think some linkage is stuck. I am having a hard time explaining to Dave at Ashcroft the problem. It is rather weird, well, at least to me. The lever is stuck in lo (i.e., forward) but is engaging as hi. I can't move it from lo where it's hi to hi where it should also be hi. See what I mean, confusing huh? I sent him a clip from the video included earlier in this link. I assume he's gone for the day so shall look forward to hearing from him tomorrow.

When I have days like today I am ever thankful to my grandfather (a fisherman/carpenter from Labrador on Canada's east coast) who instilled into me when I was a teenager the joy of working with my hands. So satisfying. And while I was able to get the selector moving, quadrant screwed into place, and all the pieces back together (despite the minimal clearance—taking the floor out from under the box between the seats sure helped), there is more damage than simply a quadrant falling off. A test run showed the following: 1st, 2nd, 5th, and reverse are smooth; 3rd and 4th take some fiddling to engage; the transfer case is stuck in hi despite being in the position of lo. And so, after less than 10,000 miles on these two rebuilt boxes I now have a poorly functioning gearbox and locked transfer case. Decision time.

Thanks oneandtwo for the clarification. Makes sense.

I decided to take the cover off the old gearbox and look at the selector/quadrant and see if I could move it. No problem, slides easily into and out of gears and rotates smoothly in neutral. Now that I have a better sense for the extent of travel for the selector, I shall try once more with the new gearbox. Interestingly, the old one (see photo) does not have a stop on the shaft like the new.

That I don't know. I ordered this one in 2015. I did keep the original one mostly in case I had trouble with the new one, and also, since shipping it back from Canada to the UK would have cost me the refund. The original one was functioning well after 230,000km but I am planning a long journey and decided to take preventative measures and replace it. Ha. That's been a questionable decision. May end up putting the old one back in.

I don't feel I should take much credit as the advice I've received from here and Ashcroft has been key to getting this far. Most appreciated. It was easy to put the quadrant back on complete, this time, with Loctite on the grub screw. That's about as far as I got, however. I am unable to move the selector shaft forward or backward; nor does it rotate; clutch/no clutch. As you'll see from the photo the quadrant is positioned off-centre and toward the back. In order for me to slip the roller and pins into it, I need to move it forward and rotate it to the middle. In the second photo, you may be able to see my problem. Not being able to move the selector shaft has me wondering if there is more going on here. Finally, I do have to wonder if there is enough room to slide the cover between the housing and the console between the seats. I would most certainly prefer not to have to take the gearbox/transfer case off.

After digging deeper, there's no problem understanding the cause of this problem.

Today I removed the turret assembly in search of loose parts; none was found. As you can see from the attached photo, all looks in excellent shape including the grub screw which is tight. The linkage looks to be in good shape, nothing loose or worn. After putting the turret assembly back together I shot a video to show what is happening. As you can see, the gear selector is all over the place. I am able—with difficulty—to move it into 1st and 3rd and occasionally 5th. I am unable to shift into 2nd or 4th. As for the transfer case you will see that I am able to shift into Low without issue. I am unable to shift into High. The strangest part to me is that both the gearbox and transfer case exhibit similar behaviour at the same time. What's in common that may be doing this? I have written to the folks at Ashcroft to see if they have any thoughts. Gearbox_TransferCase_Issues.mp4

With the time I had today I was able to remove the tunnel cover and have a look. There was nothing wrong that I could see with the bias spring (was adjusted pretty close to where it should be) and the linkage at this level (please see photos). The next step is to remove the lever turret assembly, as suggested, and see what I find. I did discover during my work the following: I can shift into gears 1, 3, 5 fairly easily; I cannot shift into 2 and 4. On the transfer case I can shift into low but I cannot shift into high. In other words, on both the gearbox and the transfer case I can shift forward but not backward, if that makes sense.

Planning to do that tomorrow Shall let you know what I find.

I purchased from Ashcroft a R380 gearbox, LT 230 Transfer Case, and 130TDi Clutch Kit in 2015, had them sent to Canada, and then installed by Rovalution in Vancouver. I considered doing this myself but decided against it. All has been running superbly until two days ago. I was driving the Defender on the highway when it began to get more difficult to change gears. No noise, just a bit more finesse needed to get into gear. I stopped for a coffee, got back into the Defender, and couldn’t get it into reverse: kept slipping into 4th. Eventually, after several trys it went but after backing out, I couldn’t get it into first: the gear shift just seemed to float all over the place. And then the weirdest thing happened. I shifted from high to low and it went smoothly except that low acted as high, yet same gearshift problem. I eventually limped a kilometer to my daughter’s place and there it sits. In summary, there is no untoward noise, no grinding, no fluid leakage. I did check both fluid levels and they are fine. Essentially I have a gear shift that goes all over the place, occassionally into gear. Linkage? Clutch?

√ Running lights √ Signal lights √ Brake lights Solution: start the engine. I called support for the Curt taillight converter. Didn't mention Defender, simply said that I had wired in the converter to the vehicle, was getting power for all functions from the receptacle into which you plug the trailer, but when I plugged in the trailer only the running lights worked. The technician said that the trailer was drawing too many amps. Then asked, "Is the vehicle running?" When I said no, he said start it up and check it out. He was right. He also mentioned that if this didn't work I may need to purchase a powered taillight converter (#59146) or change the trailer bulbs to LEDs. Thanks Red90 for getting my head back into the converter.

I admit that it certainly sounds like user error. But if so, how is it that from the same wires I can get positive readings under load from each input source and power the individual lights on the trailer? All using the same ground. I did have a fleeting thought that the notice on the package of the Curt converter stated that it only works with negative ground vehicle. 1996 Defender 110 are negatively grounded as far as I know. Certainly the negative lead from the battery is wired to the frame.

Interestingly, this was my first approach. It failed. I purchased a Curt Taillight Converter (https://www.curtmfg.com/part/56175/) and with great expectations wired it in, tested the feed, plugged in the trailer, and... Only the running lights worked. The rest seemed lost in the flat black converter box. Hence my decision to purchased a 7-pin to 4-pin adaptor which I thought—now in reflection erroneously—would do the trick. And so, I give up. I have turn indicators and running lights wired directly to a 4-pin plug on the Defender that, when plugged into the 4-pin plug on the trailer, work just fine. So, as others have wisely suggested, I shall add two new pigtails and bulbs to the existing trailer lights and run a separate wire from Pin 6 to the back of the trailer, split in the middle, and run wires from there to the new pigtails. Then I shall have brake lights and all will be complete. Should have done this awhile ago but...

Thanks Roverdrive. I think your advice about adding brake lights to the trailer is the way to go. On the trailer 7-pin to 4-pin adaptor I tried wiring the brake signal on Pin 6 to the left turn signal on the trailer side (see photo with red wire). The brakes worked the light on the left side of the trailer (proving that brake power is fine). However, with this arrangement, the left turn indicator doesn't work. No idea why. So, barring any further insights, I shall mount two brake lights, add a wire to the trailer adaptor connected to Pin 6, and run the wire to the back of the trailer, forking off to each new brake light. I think it took me less time to change the timing belt on the Defender.

I purchased them both through Rovers North; they can be seen on this url though there is not much info about them: https://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=YMZ500480&type=0&eq=&key=it I have also written to Rovers North and am hoping to hear back from them soon.

The photo in the original post, Blanco, is from the adaptor, not the 7-pin receptacle on the Defender. I have circled the pin on the adaptor that mates with Pin 6 on the receptacle. So I am getting power when the brakes are pressed but it seems to have no where to go.

I have attached a photo of one of the adaptors I purchased; the other is almost identical: one is ProLine and the other says from Land Rover (priced accordingly). Here is a general description: This handy Flat-4 trailer wiring converter is a plug-n-play solution for Rovers with a stock 7-Way European-style trailer connection. Simply plug it in to your stock 7-way connection and the opposite end has a functional flat-4 standard North American connector to rout to your trailer and enables your brake light and turn signal functions. I always am hesitant when I read the word simply. The crux of the problem—and hence the need for an adaptor other than a physical fit—is that the North American 4-pin directs the running lights along a separate wire and runs the brake signal along the two turn indicator wires (as Western pointed out). My understanding is that this adaptor is supposed to do that. Can't see how it does that since the brake in the adaptor isn't connected to anything. Perhaps both these adaptors don't support the brake lights but then, what's their use?

I have a 1996 Defender 110 300Tdi that I brought years ago from my work in southern Africa to my home in Canada. I am trying to get the lights to work on the teardrop trailer I just built. - Have confirmed that the lights on the trailer are all working with a North American standard 4-pin adaptor - The 7-pin socket on the Defender seems to be wired correctly: I get power at the proper pins for turn indicators, brakes, and running lights - Purchased two different 7-pin to 4-pin adaptors: both provide turn indicators and running lights; no brake lights - Opened one adaptor and confirmed that power is coming through for brakes on Pin 6. However, nothing seems to be connected to this pin (red circle in photo). Is there an internal diode that perhaps I am not seeing? If so, why doesn't the power for the brakes flow through the right (green) and left (yellow) turn indicator wires as I believe it should? My father was a naval aircraft electrician: I'm getting that look from beyond.

Good call. I took off the rocker cover today and I noticed a round object lying on the bottom. It was the valve cap for #3, worn through and obviously flung off. Replaced with a new one, set the clearances (a couple were a little generous), and started her up. No helicopter noise. Didn't have time to take her for a run so I shouldn't speak too soon, but it sure sounded like a 300tdi. Thank you.

I ordered a rebuilt transfer case (LT230) and gearbox (R380) along with a new clutch (got the one for the 130) and fork from Ashcroft. They were delivered without fanfare to my island home on Canada's west coast and installed by an independent Land Rover shop (was planning to do this myself but decided by the second week of nonstop rain and after trying to manhandle the gearbox alone, that doing this job outside on my driveway without cover was simply foolish--good decision). Did the rear main seal at the same time. The results are impressive. Untoward noises gone from transfer case and clutch, and I dare say the Tortoise feels more spirited. Still have the helicopter noise, however. Am going to try some advice above and check valve clearances tomorrow. And indeed, the noise is very loud when I stick my ear by the side vent. Will see.

Thanks for the photo, Simon. Always good to compare with another vehicle of the same year. Instead of replacing the seal on the door sill like yours, I will install a new one under the door.