thebiglad
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Posts posted by thebiglad
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I'm going to be having a look at a mates Disco TDi 300 auto tomorrow (1997) because it has a lighting fault.
No rear side lights, no front side lights, no dashboard lights.
Brake lights work, reverse lights work, headlights main and dip all work.
I checked the engine bay fuses, but that's all up to now.
My plan is to check the cabin fuses, but then I'm not sure where to check.
Any and all ideas welcome.
Cheers
Dave -
After being advised to move sections here comes click n paste
Right I've got a homemade snorkel jobby, I'm lookin to make the breathing side of the engine a little less wheezy so I'm currently looking at pipercross and k&n so which, out of experience has prooved reasonably successful on 300 lumps?? I've had experience with both swaying towards the piper on price tbh even looking at the spurious terrafirma/bearmach jobbys available a tenner cheaper but I might spend the 35 on the piper
Also anyone tune 300's locally to me in the market Drayton area as although I've hometuned I just don't have the time to sort it as the farms that busy and fuels costin me a bomb
Assuming yours is a manual gearbox non-EDC car, then I would go for a K&N as you have no MAF on that vehicle to get damaged and you will get good airflow to go with pump tweaks.
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No idea it seems to be a pc with which they plug under steering wheel does that help its a proper land rover garage
Do you mean it's a full LR franchised dealer selling new LR's - or is it a "Land Rover specialist"? There is a world of difference between the two.
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Hi as previously stated i have a fault on my car { defaulting into 3rd} the garages pc when connected to car cannot see fault in fact the car will not talk to it, could it be the ecu? and if so where do i go for one and how much? also why wont the car talk to the pc any ideas
The most common reasons for the gearbox going into 'Limp home' - fixed 3rd gear are:
1. Low voltage to EATS (gearbox ECU) often caused by a dying main battery;
2. A faulty XYZ switch.
Both of these should show up on any proper diagnostic.
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A frame bushes/joint
Ditto - also check the tie-rod bushes and their mounting on the rear axle - these mountings can and do rust. One gave way on our old TDi 200, that made for a moment of excitement I can tell you !!!!
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Another common cause of clunks on a TDi is the rear "A"-frame and it's ball-joint. The joint wears and starts to clonk when going over rough ground or when coming on and off the throttle.
Cheap part but a bit of a bûgger to do. Planning to rebuild the A frame on my wife's car next week - weather permitting.
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This is what you will be looking for ↓ on the LH side of the transmission. Follow the wires to see if there is a bad connection or break.
That is an R380 box, the OP has a LT77 box so the reverse light switch is on the top of the box, accessed easiest from under the centre console.
You will probably need a new switch.
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It'll be the clutch fork pierced by it's pivot, within the bell housing. Make sure when you replace it you install a new HD one. About £12 plus a new release bearing (makes the clutch lovely and light again) £8 plus new slipper pads and plastic clip total, £2.
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By far the easiest way to disable the ABS facility of your Disco braking system is to unplug the electrical connector on top of the ABS modulator on the passenger side of the engine bay.
No error lights, no loss of braking power and it's easy to access.
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I bought my 300TDi engine dirt cheap (£50) because it had been boiled and fried. The pistons had picked-up in the bores, so a rebore and new pistons. The head was warped beyond saving, so a new head from Turner Engineering. Cam and crankshaft bearings were shot, but the cam and crank were still ok. The engine had been sat outside with some old carpet on it, so was in a pretty bad state.
Les.
Hi Les, that looks like a beautiful result you achieved there, I'd be as proud as Punch if my TDi engines looked like that.
Very well done. So, now that you've got the hang of it....................................................................
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Sorry if it seems like Im hi-jacking but Ive been offered 255/70/16 at2's for a good price, im just wondering, what difference will it make to my speed and fuel consumption?? I currently have 245/75/16 colway mud terrains on (were on the car) but i dont use it off road enough to warrant mud terrains, theyre sapping fuel and are noisy as hell!!!
thanks!
If they are a good price I would be 'grabbing' them quickly as AT²'s are a great tyre. Re the size, they should be ok but you might need to adjust the steering stops a tad to stop them catching. I would fit them and see - only takes 5 mins to do the adjustment IF you have to.
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hey guys, ill give you 1 pence if you can guess what it was, it wasnt the sedimenter btw. its been bypassed.
mikey
OK Mikey, we're all ears - what was it?
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surely they are 205's?
Actually I think you're right - there I go again, exagerating
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Have you had the fuel sedimenter apart?
This is something that is supposed to be regularly service but due to it's location it is rarely looked at.
It'll cost you nothing but 15mins to try and it could solve you bad running problems - if it doesn't at least you eliminated it from the equation.
The fuel sedimenter is a filter sized housing located on the chassis off-side, just in front of the rear wheel on the inside of the chassis main rail. You will need an 11mm ring spanner to undo the fixing bolt which is in the middle of the top plate. Undo this bolt completely and the bowl should just come away. However sometimes they are stuck on their rubber seals so a gentle tap with a rubber mallet or similar will ease.
Once open you'll probably find inside the bowl all sorts of interesting jelly-like pondlife!!! Clean it all out and reinstall the bowl.
Start the engine and run on a high tickover until she is running clean again - usually just a couple of mins.
Having taken the sedimenter out of the equation and if she's still running roughly I would replace the fuel filter, replace the air filter (both cheap to buy from Paddocks)remove the intercooler and clean with white spirit or petrol, at the same time check the insides of the rubber turbo hoses for internal delamination, errrrrrrr can't think of anything else just right now
Good luck
Dave
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Thanks guys
Can anybody give me any idea of what a reasonable offer would be to accept, it’s a 1993 200Tdi with a knackered gearbox but excellent engine, (no smoke, averages 32 MPG in flat Norfolk, normal running about, cruises easy at 80 mph), with 172,000 miles, Alloys with what I would describe as an average body, the Land Rover specialist has indicated between £250 and £500.
Regards and again thanks,
Holmstack
I would have thought that if you can get to nearer the £500 end of this ballpark you would be doing well. She's done a fair few miles and she's currently a non-runner, so at for example £400, you'd be about right.
Now, moving onto TD5 !!! You'll almost certainly find they use more fuel - I do - but they are VERY nice.
I currently have three Discos and the one I use all the time is the TD5 'cos she is just so comfy and smooth. Much more refined than both TDi200 & 300.
You'll have to pay quite a chunk to get a good 'un though.
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heres one on big tyres
Gulp !!! The D2 is on quite big tyres isn't it? Are they 235/80/16's
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Its difficult for us to sit behind our computers and recommend what pressure that you should run in your tires. The first thing to do is to read the manufactures figures that are in your owners hand book for the disco. Using those figures as a guide, you can add or reduce the pressures to suit your driving and loads that you carry. For Gawds sake don't read the tire side and then add air till it reaches that figure!
You have radial tires, there will always be a bulge in the tires it's normal.
Finally, there is normally more pressure in the front tires than the rears because the vehicle is heavier at the front when unladen. BUT don't take that for gospel.
Todd.
Hi Todd, Can't agree with your final statement at all. If you look in the book of almost any car you will see more pressure is required in the rear tyres, even though your logic relating to Disco's seems fine, the recommended pressures are (depending on tyre size and weight loaded) 26 in the front and 36 in the rear.
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38psi on the front is high I would say, try more like 32psi
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It's about the pop rivets used to secure the rubber dust cover as can be seen in Les' pic:
I would like to replace them with some sort of demountable solution (better than self tapping screws).
I was thinking to something like this:
Other ideas please?
I don't understand why you don't use rivets, I've tried other solutions but have gone back to rivets as I feel they work best - so you have to drill them out next time, so what?
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Another vote for swivel bearings/worn or preload incorrect.
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Sounds to me like a problem with the xyz switch of the gearbox. It's not recognising that you are in Park so the switch is inhibiting the starting cirtcuit.
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Are there any other Series 2 TD5 Disco owners have trouble with their nuts! I tried to take the near side wheel off to change the discs and pads and hey ho - nightmare! 2 of the whell nuts just keep going round and round. Tried hitting them back in to get some thread but nothing.
Was told by a Mechanic I will have to angle grind the WHOLE ALLOY WHEEL off! In pieces then saw off the Hub - Cheeses, the pads and discs kit only cost £50 but this is going to end up a £600 notes job!
I didnt realise under those shiny Disco wheel nut covers that the bolts were so badly rusted.
Anyone any ideas?
Get another mechanic he's talking absolute tosh !!!
If the chrome nut covers are spinning take them off and get direct access to the nuts.
We've all heard bullshît stories from mechanics but this one takes the biscuit !!!!!
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I fabricated wooden brackets that locate in the jump seats and onto them I have a pair of hifi bookshelf speakers, the sound is not too bad at all - cost? Nowt !!!
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Both our TDi 300's have their fans taken off, permanently !! They heat up quickly, both heater and engine-wise and run without any overheating issues whatsoever.
If yours is taking too long to heat up, try changing the thermostat - made a big difference on Mrs TBL's car.
Disco 1 4wd ratio linkage
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Have you tried reversing to get out of diff-lock?