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thebiglad

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Posts posted by thebiglad

  1. 1200kms to a tank of diesel ho ho :lol: i get between 400 and 450 miles to a tank depending on how its driven, which is no where near 1200kms.

    I average 25mpg.

    Facelift disco have nicer looking interior especially the ES version.

    I have a 2001 ES and its a bit to beige.

    Lynall

    That equates to 38mpg !! You must have been really light on the pedal. Theoretically its possible, but its not a realistic basis for judging the fuel consumption of a possible new purchase.

  2. I have an intermittent problem with the rear door-mounted speakers on my 300Tdi. They recently stopped working so I removed the (non standard) CD unit and checked the wiring, everything seemed OK, but the speakers were still not working, however they started working again a short time later. After a few days the speakers stopped working again. This time I removed the rear speaker unit to check the wiring, that seems OK, but the speakers are still not working.

    I was wondering if there are any other wiring connections somewhere in the bodywork that may have come loose.

    I can't give you an answer I'm afraid, but I will be VERY interested in this thread as I have the same problem and have never managed to get them working again.

  3. I have always been under the impression that a 200Tdi manual would return just about 30mpg if you are careful, a 300Tdi manual slightly worse (for some unknown reason), then automatics I guessed would be worse still. Some people appear to achieve really good fuel consumption figures though.

    Mike

    Hi Mike, we get 35mpg day in day out from the wifes Tdi 200 manual and I get about 33mpg from my Tdi 300 auto. Yes, I know , people will say its not possible, but it's true.

    We drive gently, never over 60mph and they are both more than well maintained!!

  4. What I cant work out is this......

    if 235/70's came as standard fitment then 265's will only be 30mm wider? Therefore only 15mm wider on the inside of the rim?

    A few years ago I had Range Rover and for a while had 265/75x16's on rostyle rims and didn't seem to have any problems with steering at all they did catch the radius arms slightly but the turning circle seemed fine.

    I have found a supplier selling 265/75x16 Maxxis Buckshots for such a reasonable price it would be rude not to go with them.

    Andy

    Hi Andy, I think you might have the wrong end of the stick, the figures 235 & 265 refer in mm to the distance from bead to bead, so not just the width. The other figure for example 75 reperesents the sidewall & is actually a percentage, so if its a 235/75 the 75 would be the 75% of 235 which is.........................................

    If you go to this site, you can play about with this and see the effects:

    http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalcold.html

  5. Hi Freeagent,

    I'd have to measure them up to be accurate, but I'd estimate the front's have lost a bit under a third (say 9-10mm left) and the rears a quarter of their tread (say 11mm ish left). The rears are wearing quite square with only minimal tapering of the outer blocks (lugs), the fronts have about 1-2mm of taper across the lugs. Centre strips perfect on all. I haven't rotated them at all, and the front wheel alignment was dodgy for quite a while (knackered tie rod ends) which caused the worst of the uneven wear.

    The majority of my usage is highway, which somewhat explains the good wear.... the fact that I corner it like it's an MX5 and regularly pick up an inside front... doesn't :P I still can't believe the wear given the tenacious grip they provide. If they wore out in 20,000kms, I'd get 'em again. The fact that I'll get 80,000kms+ out of them is just a bonus. Note that I'll replace them at about 2/3 worn. Below that and they will have lost their edge in the mud, which is my favourite plaything.

    The other thing I found was that they really respond well to being pumped up on-road. I run mine at around 42-44psi all round for highway use, and air them down to something sensible off-road. Running them much under that and they start to chew the outer edges and get a bit noisy at highway speeds. Aids the road-holding, too.

    Starting to get a bit buzzy on the highway now, but still barely worse than worn BFG ATs for noise.

    Hi there, I've just had a look at these tyres on the Kumho website and my first reaction was that I am amazed that you can use these as an every day tarmac road tyre !!!

    They look sooooh much of a mud tyre I assumed (by the sound of it wrongly!!) that they would be carp on-road with poor wet weather grip and that they would wear out very quickly.

    I'm not saying you are wrong - I hope you accept that, its just that I'm really surprised at your positive comments for these tyres used on-road.

    Any more assurances, would be welcomed.

  6. That's an excellent job youve done there Biglad.

    Les :)

    Thanks Les, that's very kind of you.

    I was highly motivated to do it myself as I had recieved a quote from a local garage - based on me cleaning out all the old stuff and supplying the new parts - of 600+€ !!!!! :o:o

  7. Yep you are right the side panels are pretty rotten too. So they will need some work too, With the carpet out it is clear that this has needed doing for sometime, when I brought it I didn't check the floor. Still for £700 I knew there had to be a catch! I didn't realise how differently built it was than a Series 2a. I've owned and repaired regularly 2 of them. They were just too keen to visit the petrol pumps though. oh and being very tall I've still got the scars!

    Hi Jon, my wife's Tdi 200 was the same. For a couple of months I pondered learning to weld and various alternative methods for fixing the floor.

    Anyway after a lot of swithering I DID the floor. Follow the link to my attempt at repair - without welding - on another forum:

    http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=107999

    Hope that helps?!

    Can't remember if I put costs in the article or not so:

    1.Boot floor £55

    2. Crossmembers times 3 about £35 in total

    3 Odd & sods mastic, rivets, angle iron etc £35

  8. I've always found that the first time you try to take the VF off it's difficult but after that, it's straightforward.

    For the first time I use a std VF coupling spanner and a lump hammer and just give the spanner a sharp tap - and that's usually enough.

  9. Go to the web pages you understand.

    Read where and how they are going to the places.

    Get in touch with the tourist office of the country[ies] you would like to visit.

    Then go by yourself.

    That's what we did the first time we went to Namibia/Botswana.

    Believe me it saves a lot of money. At present I don't have the accomodation prices for our six month trip but I do have the fuel bill

    mike

    Hi Mike my name is Dave (thebiglad) and I live in France.

    I have just spent the last hour and a half reading your messages about your African Adventure - it was truly superb!!!! Please also convey my thanks to Margaret for the messages and pictures.

    It has REALLY whet my appetite..................you were using a 110 I believe, I have a couple of Disco's, what would YOU think of going on a trip like that in a Disco??

  10. Guys im debating whether to convert a '97 V8/LPG auto into a diesel drinker..Its a very clean example but is this do-able or worthwhile and can the existing auto box be mated with a 300/200 tdi.......Any links.....Thkx Mike

    The first thought that comes to mind is WHY - what advantage are you looking for?? or is there something wrong with the current setup?

  11. As an 'outsider' (I don't run a TD5) I'll comment that your Motorway cruising speed of 75 is too fast for best economy in a brick shaped car.

    Get out of the lane 3 rat race, run at 65ish, be prepared to drop the speed temporarily while the car / van in front completes a manouvre, instead of impatiently swinging into lane 3 and blasting past, muttering about 'old women', and you will get better economy.

    The choice is yours :-)

    Cheers

    I completely agree, motorway cruising at 75mph will kill fuel consumption, aerodynamics and all. Just as an experiment cruise at 60mph, it's more relaxing, no trouble with cameras or the 'Law', check your mpg and I'll bet it goes to over 30.

    And yes, the journey will take you 5 minutes longer - WOW.

  12. Thanks. I'm most likely going to have a poke around them both tomorrow, and will see which floats my boat.

    Like i said, i'm nervous of owning an auto but if it's in good nick i'm lured in by the price. I think it's more likely that i'll get it if the manual 3-door is tatty than if they're both similar.

    Very grateful for all your help, watch this space...

    :)

    We have a Tdi 200 manual and a Tdi 300 auto EDC. I used to sing the praises of the 200 all night and day "35mpg, fast enough; great tow-er" etc etc. Truth is, the 300 goes better, corners better, tows better, is more refined and uses almost exactly the same amount of fuel. They are both great but I'm really swaying to the 300 now.

  13. ...............just to revise my previous thread: The door button returns but not fully (gnats bolck off) if I pull it up the rest of the way the door will open from the inside.

    Sounds like maybe the small spring in the locl has broken. Ebay do them for about £5 per door, but remember they are door-specific or handed.

  14. as soon as you turn the key from pre-heat position to starter position that cuts off the power to the glow plugs.

    I'm not sure but I think that's not right - I was given to understand that the glowplugs stay working after the engine has fired, to help with warm-up. Indeed, I can hear on my TDi300 edc the solenoid click off several seconds after the moto has fired up.

  15. hi I know this might sound daft but are you not touching the throttle at all when it's cutting out, the way to start a diesel is hold the throttle flat on the floor as you turn the key and ease off as soon as it starts.

    No no no. If you do that on an EDC model you WILL create problems. They are set-up to give an automatic small blip of revs when the engine starts and raised tickover speed.

    A tip for cold weather (-5 or lower) starting I found useful is this: turn the key to warm the glowplugs, then turn off and imediately warm the plugs again, before turning over the engine. Works every time on my TDI 300 auto.

  16. Morrisons have got 20w50 oil cheap at the mo, is it suitable for a 300 Tdi ?

    Mo

    According to my '98 TDi 300 manual the suitable viscocity depends to a great deal on the ambient temperature to which the vehicle will be exposed.

    Anything from 5-30 up to 15-50.

    Incidently the first figure relates to viscocity when cold (down to -10°) eg the 5 bit, and the second figure relates to when the ambient temp reaches for example 40°C.

    So, the smaller the first number, the thinner the oil, so the other it is to turn the engine over in cold weather. For this to be an advantage you need to use the finest oil available.

    Anything API CF and above is good enough for these engines.

  17. No mine has a four speed auto-box, and I must admit it is an extremely smooth box, some hunting occurs when driving at 80 km/h on an uphill, but by pulling the box into 3rd, she goes like a dream.

    Hi there, I have the same vehicle and with mine the "change" occurs at 82kph. The "change" is the torque converter in the gearbox locking (as it's designed to do) so that pretty much all of the power of the engine gets transmitted through the auto box without loss - so it's a good thing.

    I found it took a bit of getting used to, but it really is worthwhile keeping above the "change" speed, the car feels tighter on the road and much more gutsy.

  18. Hi all, my car battery seems to be on it's way out on my '98 Disco Tdi300 auto, so if anyone can tell me what spec of battery I need to replace the old one with I would be very gratefull.

    My car is basic trim, so no electric seats or anything, so, how many amps 70, 80 or 100? What is important to look for in a new battery - Cold Cranking somthing??

    HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  19. As others have said, make sure that water can't get in !! Also, considor taking out the sound-absorbing rubber mat for a while and you'll soon see if there's any moisture gathering.

    That rubber mat is I suspect a main culpret as moisture that gets into the vehicle is absorbed by the mat and keeps it next to the metal, to work it's magic.

    I've just replaced the floor on my wif's TDi200 and then sealed up the side windows and taken out the rubber mat. There is however, a tiny amount of water still getting in so I need to track that down.

  20. Thanks very much for your comments guys.

    I looked at the car again and decided that the majority of play was actually in the steering box, so I adjusted (very carefully) the allen bolt on top of the box and now all the play that I was feeling whilst driving, has gone.

    There is still a minute amount of play on the top UJ, but it doesn't seem to impact on the feel of the steering, so hopefully all is now well.

    Thanks again, Dave

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