steve_d
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Posts posted by steve_d
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Despite thinking I was pretty good at electrics I still managed to connect the low tension wires to the wrong coils. Somehow it did partially run which may be the position you are in.
Also 6.5-7 volts is pretty low so a booster battery could be a good idea to eliminate that.
Steve
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Sorry for the partial highjack.
Looks like the HG has gone on our Defender. It's at a comp safari in Scotland at the moment (Support/tow vehicle) and I'm expecting my business partner is arranging recovery to the south coast at the end of todays racing.
In preparation for its repair and the next event in Scotland next weekend I'm trying to research the HG replacement.
Can anyone help with a link to an english language TD5 workshop manual and secondly any pointers for the upcoming job.
Many thanks
Steve (layed up at home with a septic tooth)
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Sorry should have said, tried the headlight washer pump and it was also disappointing. I thought it was because the jets now have to go 2 feet instead of 2 inches but if others have had success then maybe the pump is a bit tired.
Steve
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We have changed the washer jets from the standard plastic jobbies to RR headlight washer jets on our Comp Safari machine.
These now run off a standard washer pump for each jet but the performance is not great.
Any suggestions for a pump we could now fit inline (8mm plastic pipe) to run both jets with some umfff.
I have an old Bosch fuel pump (044 I think) but am not sure how it would take to water rather than petrol.
Suggestions?
Many thanks
Steve
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If you bought some ali induction pipe bends you could cut and shut them to form a three branch inlet. This would then weld to the ali adaptor plate leaving the fixings accessable from outside rather than having multiple covers which could leak.
Pipes (other sizes are avaiable)
Steve
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Will a rear tool post resolve the chatter problem I have when parting off or is it just something I'm doing wrong?
Steve
Myford Super 7
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......And Mark Evans is a Vet! Has he not got animals to look after?
No ordinary vet...chief veterinary advisor to the RSPCA.
Steve
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Are you sure it is not the alternator playing up? Where would 20V come from otherwise.
Are you running PWM idle? Both my MS units go wild if the idle valve is plugged in. All goes back to normal when I unplug it.
Steve
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offering to get them made to spec and in the correct ranges if the demand is there. I'm not sure they are what you'd call readily available, especially in the ranges needed.
I see what you mean. Quick Google shows that the reversable ones are a much narrower range than you are suggesting.
Not sure how many would want to crawl under the car to take a reading though.
Steve
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I've got a little project on the go and if i could get a way of measuring the temp of Engine, Gearbox and Trans box for under £5 would anybody be interested ?
You understand that you'd have to phsically look at the Engine, Gearbox and Trans box to tell the temp but it would be a single glance and you'd know what they were running at.
The devices are passive, none powered and zero maintenance and have a resoution on 5 degrees celsius. So a reading would be 85 or 90 for say the engine block. The reaction time to changes is very quick. The limits i'm looking at are 25C to 100C in 5 degree steps. This range should be good for all three i think.
What do you think? could i make a business from this....hmmm.
As adhesive backed thermal labels are readily available I don't see at the moment what more you are offering.
Steve
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How do you qualify as a commercial vehicle particularly if it is a hybrid or trayback?
I took my Dakar through SVA (now IVA). Passed on second attempt. First test took 8 hours. Came away with an age related plate.
Steve
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Hmmmm
SWMBO found another Box I had placed in safe place when I bought the new V8
In it are some "Bling Bits" some loverley aeroquip hoses, poss for the catch tank, and
some other nice bits that I need to look closer as to where they may go, and some loverley stuff
modified to now look like ****e
One such bit is what I believe to be a swirl pot, it has been bodificated, and has what I believe to be the wrong
inletys and outlets, as one is Rad hose size the other 1/2 hose size, and a bleed drilled and glued into a cap
which seems to be glued solid with glue - so its in for a soak.
So, on a V8, which hoses would be connected to where on a swirl tank, and do they (as I think) help with removing and venting
air from the system from either cavitation or super hot water with air in it ? How essential is one in this application - is
it a good idea, and an extra to help with the cooling - and why, or is it extra complication, and extra joins into a cooling system that
are not really required - and again if so why ?
Help, as next weekend the engine is going in
Nige
A swirl pot allows air to rise out of the water but so will a decent sized, carefully positioned, header tank. If your header tank is connected into the bottom hose with a decent size pipe and with the T connection vertical so any air passing along the bottom hose can escape up to the header then you should be fine. You will then need bleed pipes to the header to vent any steam etc from the upper levels of the engine. If you have front engine with the rad behind the cab then a swirl could well be a help up front with a header alongside the rad.
If a swirl is used it is normally sealed with the trapped air venting to the header tank which has the pressure relief cap.
Steve
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Thank you Nige and Steve for the diff build today.
Proved just how little I know about the task.
Hopefully your introduction to the Ashcroft locker was worthwhile. It certainly looks a nice piece of kit.
Thanks
Steve
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We have Fox dampers on a Comp Safari racer and are not happy with the way they are performing.
The car does not seem to flow through the rough stuff and just patters along the surface which will be loosing us traction.
I've been told you can adjust them by changing the Nitrogen pressure in the reservoir. I don't know a whole lot about how they work but to me that does not seem to make sense as it is not changing valving in any way.
Is this possible and if so where can I buy the bottle and fittings to do this?
Many thanks
Steve
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Right
Ashcroft locker has arrived and very pretty it looks too.
Now the problems start.
1. When an ARB locker is installed one of the domed locking/adjuster rings is replaced with the ARB version. As I didn't fit the ARB I don't have the old ring in 'That box' under the bench. Anyone know a part number and where I can get one? Second hand would do.
2. What preload torque are the main roller bearings set too?
3. What backlash should I see as a starting point for setting the CW/Pinion mesh?
4. Anywhere I can find a table of the bolt torque figures?
Nige is right this is missing from the tech archieve but as can be seen from my questions I'm not the one to write it.
Thanks for any help
Steve
I only know the axles to be Disco 2.
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Hi Unfortunately we have seen this before on ARB which is why we use billet steel for the main body on our locker. Our Lockers were given a good testing at the recent Croatia event by a number of competitors including the winner Jim (Gigglepin) Marsden. Regards Ian Ashcroft
Hi Ian
when I called to order one of yours they were out of stock but someone went away and had a dig around under a bench somewhere and found one for me.
Should be arriving today with luck.
Thanks
Steve
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<vulture Mode On>
Steve
Could you PM what you wHat for the bitsa arb parts
Might be useful for me
<vulture Mode off>
Nige
Hi Nige
With the high probability our driver will break the one at the other end I think I need to hang on to the bits.
However if he breaks that one in the same way I will bear you in mind because by that time his wallet will have taken quite a beating.
The diff was at the end of the day and followed a roll into a Scotish Burn, An attack on a gate post which destroyed the N/S front wing, lights and bonnet corner. Another incident removed the O/S front wheel spat but he dosen't know when and where.
Steve
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Have now decided to bin it and replace with Ashcrofts own version.
'Steps back and waits to be told that is also a bad move'
Although their reputation would leave me to think it's the best move.
Steve
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We have ARB lockers on a contest vehicle and lost front drive during an event last Sunday.
Having pulled the drive shafts, which were considered to be the culprits at the time, they are in good order.
When I stripped the diff down I found that the diff casing has sheared from its flange which bolts to the crown wheel.
Has anyone seen or heard of this before?
Many thanks
Steve
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What about an early Range Rover? Or were their list prices still too high for your liking?
The RR purchase price is quite a jump from anything that went before so has been discounted.
Now looking like an early 110 will be the base vehicle. Depending on condition we will decide what to replace if anything. I suspect a later engine will be one of the mods on the list.
So back to my earlier question....where will I find original list prices for early 110 models?
Steve
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Sorry.... why dont you just buy a 90?
If you have a company car you are taxed on it as a 'Benefit in kind' this tax is very heavy.
If your company car is over 15 years old your tax is calculated on the original list price of that vehicle. Obviously the lower that price is the better hence my post last week asking where I can find original list prices for early vehicles.
It will basically be a trade off between making the car as easy and comfortable to drive and keeping the original purchase price as low as possible. I suspect a 90 would still have been quite an expensive car to buy so am looking further back. I have still not found a source for early list prices so the whole project is rather difficult until this is resolved.
Steve
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Sorry if this has been done before, a search did not help me.
There are companies out there who offer coil sprung chassis for Series Land Rovers.
Is it legal to fit them or does the vehicle then need to take an IVA test?
My understanding is that I can replace a chassis with a brand new one as long as it is of the same design.
If it is not possible to go to a coil spring chassis would parabolic springs give me anywhere near the same ride quality?
Would I also be able to upgrade transmission and in particular the braking systems?
The objective is to make a classic shape LR into a useable daily driver with a galvanised chassis, modern underpinnings and a later drive train.
I thank you in advance for your thoughts.
Steve
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The one in the 1st linky looks to have deformed on 1st use ?....
Yes but at the same time shows you how much thicker you need to make your version.
Steve
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Snapping off is the correct process.
If the whole pin pulled through complete with its head then I would suggest the hole had been drilled oversize.
Steve
New engine and DVLA
in International Forum
Posted
Same challenge on mine.
A few words saying engine number xxx is installed in car reg xxx on MOT station reciept worked fine.
MOT man was busy so I sat at his PC and typed it myself.
Steve