steve_d
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Posts posted by steve_d
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Following on from the welding theme I would suggest you find a nice big bolt and grind/file the shank to fit the square hole and, if you can, make it oversize so you can hammer it home. Then weld it and get a wrench on it as soon as possible so everything is still hot.
My reasoning is that you have already proven the plug is well tight so just welding something onto the surface is probably not going to hold. Trying to undo it whilst hot is so that the ali will have expanded some.
Steve
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Yes it is called an ignition amplifier.
Yes it is probably dead. They have a habit of doing this.
There is a test method in the tech archive. Whilst this is ignition I think you will find it covered in the EFI test.
Basically there is a sensor inside the dizzy (don't remove it as they are a pain to set back in the right position). As the dizzy shaft rotates a star wheel passes the sensor. The amplifier reads this and makes/breaks the negative side of the coil to earth thereby producing the spark (or not in your case).
Steve
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Whilst I agree that the inner wing is not doing much bar stopping mud flying around it is still regarded as part of the body so must be sound where less than 300mm from a body mount. Repairs near the body mounts will have to be continuous welded but further away could be tack or stitch welded.
Steve
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If it is a flapper at the very least the pump will shut down if you disconnect the flapper unless some circuits have been bypassed.
Steve
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Take a sample pin or clip into your local motor factors who will have caliper service kits on a rack. You may have to buy the extra bits you don't need but you will have the R pins.
Steve
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What injectors are you using and where did you get the flow rate from?
3.9 injectors flow at 216cc/min or 20.6lb/hr
If you have been given a msq for a 3.5 then you need to also get the required fuel number that the map was tuned for otherwise it is meaningless.
I think the one FF gave me was based on a required fuel of 11.5. If I run the wizard I get 15.1.
Steve
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Can anybody show me a picture of which ccolant temperature probe I should utilise for megasquirt?
I'm hoping there is one on a V8's (3.5) block that I can use without loosing the temperature gauge on the dash.
Piccies please?
Cheers,
Mick.
If it is a 3.5efi then it is alongside the thermotime switch on the front right of the inlet manifold as you look at the engine.
If not efi then I don't know if there will be one. I have a carb manifold and it has a tapped hole at that point but there is nothing fitted in mine.
Steve
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Heads up
Being a pedantic old bugger, I wnated to be sure I had "Got" the misfire,
so I removed Plug No 1 on the V8 and placed each of the old plugs in turn,
3 plugs later I found the misfiring plug, did the others and they seemed ok
Sat and studied the misfiring plug.
On seriously close examination I think I may have discovered the issue
as the phrase goes "It just came apart in me hands guv - 'onest"
The plug electrode shows burning at the base, more interestingly the design
of the NGK BP etc has changed, the top tip used to be removable, now it isn't
and the design changed, unsure how / why this seems to have happened here, but
I "think" it may be the issue ?
Nige
Not had one apart but logic says the burnt bit is probably where the resister should have been. This ties in nicely with the earlier comment that the resistor won't take the extra voltage produced by EDIS.
Steve
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Pin 1 for an EDIS8 is at the end with the registration notch in the centre.
You also need to be careful how you connect your coil packs. You will position the coils on your car and choose the best route for the HT cables. What you end up with will likely not match the wiring diagrams commonly found in the MS manuals and in our MS threads.
Steve
ETA.....If you look in the MS Manual for EDIS (http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_EDIS.htm) you will see that each of the EDIS units (4-6-8 cylinder) have the same number of pins but different Register configuration so you can't plug the wrong module into your car. The installation guide you have shows all of them with the same connector moulding....wrong.
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Frost restorations do a stripper for powder coating.
Not used it, just seen in their catalogue.
Steve
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It seems from the post above though that they want proof?
I'm just gonna have to call the DVLA and see what they say.
There is little point calling DVLA as their help desk is...not very helpful. Prime reason is that the local offices seem to work to their own set of rules. Your best bet is to go into your local office (you can't phone them as their is no direct line). When you get to the counter and start to explain what you are doing they will likely refer you to the technical officer.
Best of luck.
Steve
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The Range Rover has done 95k miles and I am not sure of its service history before I got it. Diff oils looked fine when they were changed but I've been concious that I should change the auto box fluid so I bought a new filter, gasket and 15 litres of ATF.
According to the manual, the 'box holds 11 litres. When I took the drain plug out I got +/-6 litres so after I replaced the filter, I put 6 litres back in.
I'm guessing the torque converter holds some so is the oil change in an auto just an itterative process where you can't get it all out and end up diluting with new. Or, have I missed something?
By the way, the oil that came out was darker and the filter housing was lightly covered in thin, dark coating.
First thing, the 'box almost seems like it is "slipping" in 3rd when at full throttle - Is this a sign that the clutches are past there best and gradually getting worse or does it result in a loss of motion?
Thanks for any help!
Bit late now but Ashcrofts site suggests you should avoid replacing the oil as the new oil contains detergents that can loosen sludge that has built up in the old 'box. This then can block the governor or valve blocks causing new problems.
The slippage you talk of....is this since the oil change?
There is quite a large amount of oil in the converter which you can only drain if you have the converter out.
Steve
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I have another car (non LR) which passed SVA and the last 5 years MOT with a 4 point full harness with twist buckle.
Steve
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That design is carp as it offers no strength in a side load and the square tube will twist if the pull is high or low and coming off the end of the drum.
If you are going your own route then can I suggest starting with a commercial winch tray then welding two square tubes to it which can then engage in mating tubes bolted to each of the chassis legs.
This will produce a far stronger mount which will take all the loads required.
Steve
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Read the data on the site as it also talks about using a cleaner to prepare the tank before sealing.
Steve
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The adjuster on the outer cable should be set to give 1mm clearance between the end of the adjuster and the sleeve crimped on the inner cable.
Are you sure it is kick down, or could it be the torque converter locking/unlocking at 50mph?
That would be true if the crimp is in the right place and the throttle linkage is the same as when the crimp was originally set. As this is an auto transplant I don't think the crimp can be relied upon.
Steve
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Somebody pointed me at an adjustment setting for the kickdown cable but I can't find it now.
Just had a look in the tech archive and can't see it.
The cable is adjusted at the engine end. If it is shifting early then you need to move the adjuster on the cable outer in towards the throttle mechanism. That way the throttle will move further before the kickdown operates.
Take it in small steps as it may only need a couple of mm.
Don't just ignore it as the cable does more than just kickdown it provides a variable setting for the 'box shift pattern.
Steve
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Think these are the same from Frost
Steve
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Headlamp Box repair panels are listed in Rimmers catalogue RA1324 & RA1325.
No doubt others do them as they are a well known for rust.
Steve
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What condition is the wire insulation in?
The wiring for the injectors can get very brittle because of the engine heat. In your case the insulation may have cracked off and then shorted. If that were the case then others could go the same way.
Steve
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A Ford Transit trigger wheel fits nicely and is cheap.
Steve
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kicking back commencing.......
We'll not see him for the next two days.
Steve
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Think Automotive
BGC motorsport components
Merlin motorsport
all do them but all want about £28
Steve
V8 priming
in International Forum
Posted
Why loose any oil?
Unscrew existing and sick finger over hole.
Whip finger away and position new sender.
You will come away with oily fingers but very little oil spilt.
Steve