EdF

i think it was Sir Edmund Hilary who said: "those who need to ask, will never understand, but those who understand, will never need to ask" If you don't know you have to ask, but you need to understand the answer. Rakeway offer an AP Driveline HD clutch and a racing clutch. I've asked them which they think is suitable. Thanks for the reply.

I'm about to replace the clutch on my 2002 90 TD5 as it's slipping. I have a two-part article in June/July 2008 LRO about almost everything regarding the TD5 flywheel & clutch, but there's no mention of how to check the dual mass flywheel. Is it possible by a DIY'er and what do I look for, excess movement between the two halves, and how much is excessive? Anyone know? Also, does anyone apart from Britpart do a heavy duty clutch? I haven't been able to find one..

Do the NAS lights need any body mods, being bigger than standard? Or just new self tapper 'oles? Thanks to all posters..

In the last year, covering 12,000 miles, I've noticed what seems to be clutch slip for 2 - 3 seconds on about 5 occasions in my 2002 90 TD5, usually in 5th gear at a reasonable speed, uphill on a motorway (so not that steep) and last week under normal acceleration on the level. I met a guy who runs a Landy repair business and he reckoned it was the dual mass flywheel causing the problems, not the clutch as I suspected. I found in tech archives an interesting topic by Jim Attrill about the flywheel, but I can't find an answer to these questions:- Can the flywheel being 'on the way out' cause a symptom like the clutch slipping? Can the flywheel come apart in use? Today, towing 1½ tonnes approx uphill for 1/4 mile for the first time there was a smell - presumably from the clutch - but no slipping. It seems a strip-down is required, but I'm worried whether the flywheel can 'let go' before I can work on it. A solid flywheel and clutch kit is £287+vat from Brightwells and more from Britpart but a clutch on it's own costs much less. Perhaps it would be best to do the whole thing, all things considered? Any ideas? Many thanks for any replies..

Today I met a guy I know who runs a successful Landy business. He told me that the problem isn't the clutch but the dual mass flywheel.. He has a 90 the same as mine and fitted a one-piece flywheel (not a Land Rover product). If it is the flywheel, is it likely to suddenly self-destruct before it can be fixed? Just about to consult the tech archive to see what I can find out.. Later: The tech archive didn't help, so I did a web search and Brookwells do a complete kit comprising a solid flywheel and clutch for £287 (plus VAT/carriage) and there was also one the same on EBay but dearer. The manual tells me the flywheel simply unbolts.. Mucky hands time coming up.. (sob..)

I decided to go for the cheap option and ordered four LED bulbs from 'Rat Sport'. I ordered two to replace the twin filament bulbs in the back and two for the rear indicators. What came? Three singles and one twin... Sigh.. How difficult can it be...? I tried them.. The twin filament one was dimmer than the old bulb on sidelights and the indicator flashed like crazy and seemed more white than yellow. Possible MoT problem there.. I did see some mention of a LED flasher unit being required. I'm sending them back.. I'm not prepared to pay a huge sum for the LED light units, there must be another way to light up the back end more effectively..

Ahhh, the auto-notify of replies isn't working, again.. Thanks for the leads. After extensive searching I found this place (Rat Sport) which sells LED bulb replacements. http://shop1.actinicexpress.co.uk/shops/Rat_Sport/index.php?cat=Bulbs I did look on the Bearmach site (and most others!) but didn't see 'em and I don't use EBay at all. Very impressed with the brightness of the replacement lamp units but too dear.. Found an alternative supplier at £200 for the set of ten.. Think the bulbs are a cheaper option...

A friend just bought a used 90 with LED small lights (side/indicators). Does anyone know a supplier at reasonable cost? I did find one supplier but thought £380 for a set a little high..? Thanks.

I'm currently looking for a 90 TD5 for a lady, to tow her horse trailer. Went into a local 4x4 dealer today and he said demand is unreal, people are coming up here (northern Scotland) from the Midlands to buy Land Rovers - any model.. Think the recent snow has caused panic buying?? For two weeks 4x4's were the only vehicles on the roads, which is why we pay inflated road tax on some models, to put people off buying them.. Could be justified (sometimes) in the Home Kaynties, but not up here.. Anyone in Scotland got a 90 TD5 under £7500? (after Matthew)

Thanks for that Reb, no, it's not my foot on the pedal.. After 18 Landys and countless other motors, I've never worn out a clutch. Maybe I didn't keep them long enough! The main reason for wanting to change the clutch out was that I was thinking of selling the 90 and the last time it slipped I had a potential buyer with me. Not a good advert. However, it was a friend looking for a Landy and I was showing her how mine went as a comparison to others she may look at. But we have more or less decided to keep it as it doesn't get used much these days (in winter and summer horse towing) so not much point in going for a Disco 3 when the 90 will do. Interesting to hear you have had similar symptoms, even with a new (?) clutch. My 90 has a remap and 'goes' so maybe I should ease off the gas.. The main problem I found with my 'method' was refitting the gearbox, as holding it up on the crane with rope, it was a pain to keep the gearbox at the correct angle to slide it onto the end of the crankshaft. In the end I had to lift it up semi-manually to do it.. Not good for an old back.. Definitely a job for warmer weather.. Had snow again last night..

I suspect that it IS windchill, as the mixture I'm using should more than cope with the static freezing temps but the jets still froze. Not just humans are affected by windchill.. Just found a chart on Wikipaedia and -5C becomes -40C in a 60mph wind, or at 60mph - same difference I suppose. I will try to get better washer additive, maybe at 100% for starters before I tackle the heated jets..

No, first thing I checked.. I know there was an issue with the split flywheel on this model and my local main stealer quoted me 'about £1,000' if the flywheel needed replacing as well as the clutch when I enquired when it first slipped last year. I didn't fancy doing the job then myself, although I'm capable.. Don't know what the symptoms of the flywheel problem are, though.. Incidentally, my method of gearbox removal was (& I expect I've missed something out...), remove passenger door, seats, floor panels, propshafts, other bits attached to gearbox. Hire engine crane, support gearbox with engine crane through door space, undo bellhousing bolts, slide back gearbox. I'm in my 60's so have to make life easy for self.., but if anyone has a better way, please tell! I prefer working from above as much as possible..

....and in the last year it's done about 11,000 miles since it slipped the first time. Went out today and tried to make it slip - uphill, high gear, floored it, got a very slight slip after half a mile then it wouldn't do it again.

I hear what you guys are saying, but on my last trip south on January 9th, on the A9 Inverness to Perth EVERY lay-by and pull-in had vehicles in them with drivers cleaning their screens. Not just me, were they ALL using cheapo washer antifreeze??

I've a 2002 90 TD5 with 53k on the clock. Over the last year the clutch has slipped about 4 or 5 times. The first time on a hill on a motorway, accelerating out of a slip road, and lastly last night, in 5th gear accelerating reasonably quickly down a long straight, slightly downhill. Considering that in the meantime it's pulled a loaded horse trailer several times with no sign of slipping, I'm a bit confused! My experience is that whan a clutch starts slipping it gets worse and worse until there's no go at all. Any ideas? Is it just a case of biting the bullet and replacing it? I believe it's adjusted properly at the pedal and has some free play. Thanks for any replies. I LOVE a job like that in the winter. Like a hole in the head.. Great joke on Mock the Week last night about health.. My grandad was ill in hospital and they smeared his back with lard. He went downhill very quickly after that...

I've made a couple of long trips in my 90 in the depths of winter and no matter how strong the concentration of water to washer antifreeze, the jets ALWAYS freeze up. I've often had to stop every couple of miles to clear the screen by hand. No joke on a long trip. My solution last week was, as before, to have an old fashioned washing-up liquid bottle (NOT a trigger type) full of water and washer antifreeze, wind down the window and squirt it around the 'A' post onto the screen. Okay until I banged the bottle off the mirror and dropped it on a busy dual carriageway. As the washer pipes are mostly inside the bulkhead, and it would be difficult, if not impossible to replace the jets with those from another make, I think the answer may be to put heated jets on the bonnet and run new pipes to them.. I did a web search for heated jets a couple of years ago with no luck, and after a bad journey to Edinburgh with loads of filthy spray being thrown up, the time has come for something better. I've just found a Ford Mondeo (sorry for swearing) DIY site which shows Ford units. http://www.btinternet.com/~madmole/HowDoI/EasyMods.html# Look at second link. You don't really need it, as here's the text with the part nos. Adding Heated Windscreen Washer Jets Easy Required Tools: Soldering iron, Wire, Volt meter Time Required: 1 hour Cost: £12.70(part number 6747267 X 2, £6.35 each from Ford) Another very easy Mod, although you will need to do some wiring. If you mix your windscreen wash fluid correctly it shouldn't freeze until about -15 degrees, but often you will find that its squirts for a while and then stops. This is normally because it freezes as it leaves the squirter jets. The solution is to replace yours with heated units off of a car that has them or buy them from Ford. Now My car didn't have any wiring for these so I had to do it myself. I cut off the plug at the bottom of each squirter and made up my own loom. A wired (Soldered) from a good earth (Bonnet earth strap) to the first wire, then wired the remaining squirter wire to one of the wires on the next unit, and finally wired the remaining wire to a 12V positive supply controlled by the rear heater relay, so the squirter heaters are on only when the rear window/mirror heater circuits are on. I have seen that pre-fitted Mondy's the supply to the Squirters is a ignition fed 12V. ie they are on all the time, they only get warm and not hot so this is fine. I think I'd prefer to have a switch in the wiring. Hope this gives someone hope of seeing the road again in the winter.

I've got a 2002 TD5 90 which is my third (ignoring the 15 other Landies over the years). I've had Ashcroft's alter the transfer gearboxes in all my TD5's and wouldn't hesitate to do it again. With the standard ratio any speed over 50 is tiring. Mine cruises easily at 70mph now. Only my last one has been tuned, it has a remap which the last owner had done.. I don't buy into the 'it'll make it worse in hilly driving' as a TD5 Disco manages quite well and weighs 400Kg more. I have towed a horse trailer with all my Landies, which is about 2.5 tons with two nags in it, no problems. The easiest method is to take your Landy to Ashcrofts, they keep it for a day, you get a courtesy car and you collect the Landy before close of business. Costs about £650.. The other way is to send them your transfer box and they send it back altered. As you're not mechanically minded, I would suggest option 1. Overdrives are another set of gears whizzing round bolted on the side and the GKN ones don't have a good reputation for reliability, (I'm led to believe they are not intended for constant use) but I believe if you do a search there's another one on the market now..

A techy was in the stealers' parts dept yesterday so I asked him if he had any ideas and he said, 'check the back of the rockerbox gasket, they always leak and drip down onto the bellhousing..' Not got to it yet, but it seems likely..

No, that oil disappeared a while ago (above) and the filter is tight. Clutch slave is bone dry. Just had a look, there was a drip of clean oil on the bellhousing casing next to one of the bottom bellhousing/engine bolt heads and a drip of dirty oil next to the other bolt head. Cleaned the area up, removed the drain plug and went for a quiet 3 mile run. On getting back, there was a drip of dirty oil in the same place, but no evidence of it 'running' from anywhere. Could the oil have travelled along the bolt and seeped out behind the bolt head, but it seems unlikely. What I don't know is, as it's the sump in front of the bellhousing there, does the threaded end of the bolt penetrate into the sump? Wouldn't have thought so, myself, and the bolt is VERY tight.. Nothing coming out of the drain plug hole. There's a bit of seepage around the sump/block joint but no sign of it being bad enough to run. Still a bit of a mystery. I wouldn't normally bother with it, but as it's bad enough to drip on the drive, it's a concern..

Going to have a good look tomorrow, looks like regular oil not hydraulic fluid... A few months ago oil appeared in the same place and it was dripping down from the oil filter, which had come a bit loose. Isn't that now, though.. As for an endoscope (I remembered what it was called...), I found an industrial one here.. http://www.dartsystems.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=58_117_123&products_id=781&zenid=7d0344a8f6949c1b5a4bbd09276a8823 ...which for £51 could save a lot of work.. It connects to a laptop via USB, press a button on the handle and a picture appears on screen. A tiny camera and lights on the end of a probe which can be wiggled round corners. At 14mm, it may not go through the drain plug hole, though. Must check..

I've had a few 90's, three of them TD5's. There's a gradually worsening drip (just started to leave marks on the ground) from the bottom of the bellhousing where it mates with the engine. I removed the drain plug there and nothing came out and what I could see of the clutch cover was spotless. The oil is clean, so it isn't engine oil.. Gearbox...? Maybe, I suppose.. But, on a previous identical model I owned, I'd taken the transfer gearbox out to send to Ashcrofts for a ratio change and that had an oil drip in the same place, so while I was about it I lifted off the main gearbox and bellhousing for a look-see. Nothing, it was all clean, and I suspect this one may be the same.. I never did find where the oil came from on that one. As the 90 is our only vehicle right now, I can't just take it off the road for a week and I'm a bit reluctant to do the work if it proves to be a waste of time.. I can't imagine where else the oil is coming from other than the gearbox, though.. Any ideas? Nothing obvious underneath... Can one rent/buy one of those probes with a light on for looking in small holes to see if there is a leak from the gearbox.. I expect you know what I mean...

Not for sale yet, the Disco fell through...

That's about what I thought, though the Disco2 gearing and remap are about a grands' worth so I might ask a bit more and see what gives.. However, I found a nice Disco3 two hours ago and we're flying down to London to (hopefully) buy it tomorrow. A pity SWMBO is fed up with the 90. Any more than 20 miles in it and she's on about Discos. The 600 mile drive back should find any loose bits.. Sooo, the 90 will be for sale shortly..

I might be selling my 2002 90 to buy a Disco3 (or p/ex...), but with the current mayhem with used vehicle prices, I haven't a clue what it's worth. Here's a rundown.. 2002 'Braemar' Special Edition in silver, with the centre dash panel, central locking & electric windows. It's a TD5 County Hardtop, with full length headlining, anti rollbars, etc., now with genuine side windows, rear load mat and a third seat and seatbelt in the rear. Fitted with Discovery 2 final drive ratio by Ashcrofts and remapped. Full length roofrack and ladder up the back, snorkel, winch in winch bumper (slightly used, I believe, but not by me) & lightguards. Fitted with slightly softer front springs and Bilstein 'black' shocks all round (about a year old). LR Alloys and BFG All Terrains with about 8mm left. Most of this stuff came with it and was factory fitted. It's only been a pet and has not worked hard and has only been across a couple of fields - slowly. Covered 51,000 miles.. Towbar and single socket, Waxoyled regularly, no dents, gouges, scratches. I've owned it two years and it's never let me down.. Whaddya Think?

I suppose it depends which websites you come across and how much time you can afford to spend on these things.. My old hands hate fiddly stuff.