EdF

Yes, or some water and washing up liquid, didn't heat mine up.. Without instructions, it took a little figuring out how to use the tool, but then I'm an old duffer. You have to push it, not drag it..

I thought I'd post after finally getting the correct tool for this job after a long search. I had tried all my local motor factors, tool suppliers, etc., and eventually found one online at a well known retailer, but I wasn't prepared to pay £26 plus £15 carriage for something the size and complexity of a screwdriver. If you're not aware of what I'm on about, the small rear windows in a hardtop, either side of the door, are held in by a rubber seal which has a 'locking strip' in the middle. It's dead easy to remove but an absolute PIG to get back in without the proper tool, which is basically a handle with a diamond shaped wire prong in the end. I'd removed the windows to do a respray. On a previous rebuild I did manage to insert them using small screwdrivers but it took several hours. Anyway, I found the tool at http://www.northeasternrubber.com/ for £12.50 inc. vat & carriage.. Look under 'insert tools'. It was despatched immediately. They also sell the seals. By the way, always insert the locking strip on the inside of the vehicle (as fitted by the factory) as once removed, the glass comes out very easily..

Groan... It's code for small, ****ty, noisy flying insect eating birds that crapped all over my 90 for 6 weeks..

Yep! What a PIG of a job.. Never, ever, try to respray a vehicle in a dusty barn full of swallows...

I thought I'd reply myself in case anyone else comes acroos this post, as I've now found the answer, courtesy of a 'fitting accessories' DVD by LRO. The windows are bonded in and need serious hammer and chisel work to remove.. This is the later typre, by the way, where no rivets or screws can be seen on either side..

I've fitted rear side windows to 90's in the past, so I'm familiar with how the older types were secured - self tappers or rivets covered with a rubber push-in strip, but I'm just fitting some 2006 panels from a breaker into my 2002 90 and I can't see what holds these windows in. It would be easier to respray the panels if they were removed, but there doesn't seem to be any obvious fittings. The inner face of the panel has wide sheets of adhesive clag around the window frame and I don't want to peel it all off if the window is somehow 'sealed in' and can't be removed. Anyone know?

I've done a few vehicles with Waxoyl. It comes in two varieties, clear and black, the black version is coloured with a small amount of bitumen. I've also mixed it with underseal, which gave a nice finish on such areas as the bottom of the tub, where I wasn't really treating rust, just wanted it to look nice for a motor I was selling. My method, and there are others, is to apply it using an underseal gun, available from such places as Machine Mart. It does need a compressor, however. It looks like a spray gun but without a body, and has a long tubular outlet and quite a big diameter nozzle. It screws on the top of one litre cans of Waxoyl or Dinitrol or underseal. I did a 7½ ton lorry once and it squirted warm Waxoyl about 4 metres! I don't add extra white spirit like some do (Waxoyl is based on it..) but warm the 5 litre can (with cap removed!) in a galvanised bucket full of water over a gas ring - an outdoors one which sits on the ground, not the kitchen stove.. I then decant the warm Waxoyl into the litre can and start spraying. I like to remove big lumps of muck first, especially in the various mud traps under my 90. One should be aware of the safety issues, having a naked flame underneath a white spirit based liquid may not ba good idea, but I've never had a problem and I only heat it until it's liquid enough to spray. In the middle of the summer, it may not be necessary to heat it at all.. There are plenty of threads on where to spray, but up the channel behind the front door hinges of the bulkhead is a favourite, and inside the chassis, but I can never be sure that's worthwhile as one can't see the coverage one is getting. One old trick was to block all the holes up in the chassis and pour a lot of old oil into each leg, which stayed there and sloshed around for the rest of the vehicles life.., or until a plug gave way... It's definitely a summer job, when the underneath is dry.. Waxoyl is not a permanent treatment, it does wash off and exposed areas may need treating every year. I once did the roof of an outbuilding covered in rusty wiggly tin. It lasted about 4 years.

Thanks for both replies. Either way, I can imagine the mess I will get in! If you see someone apparently attached to the side of a 90, it'll be me... Wunntenn, are you in the Highland 4WD Club?? I'll certainly investigate getting bigger windows. I've fitted two pairs of 'rivet-in' windows (Landy ones) and never had a problem with them..

The rear side windows in my 90 are not Land Rover ones, they are held in with a rubber surround onto the cut panel edge with a further locking rubber strip which is supposed to 'lock' the main seal. It's an old idea and many auto windows are held in like this. Trouble is, the seals leak. The water leaking in corroded the surrounding panels and left water blisters and corrosion under the paint - on both sides of the panels. Last year I removed it all, rubbed it down and resprayed and got an RAC windscreen depot to refit the windows - I couldn't do it as I don't have the special tools needed to manipulate the seals and the locking strips and they used a black auto sealant under the strip. It's just as bad again - the sealant seems to have dried and I have the panels out again. I was intending to replace the panels with others with genuine windows (from a breaker) but the cost is a bit daunting as well as having to buy them unseen (I live 500 miles from the ones I've found).. Anyone any ideas whether there's a better sealant or method of refixing them? The windows are slightly bigger than any others, so I can't fit different windows. Thanks for any replies..

You have got to face reality, it won't be the same, the present 90/110's etc. are too costly to make - they have to be hand built and they have to be eco-friendlier (sorry for mentioning it...). The present design is carp in many ways (I've had about eight 90's and a couple of 110's so I have a vague idea of them!). The 90 is hopeless for rear passengers no matter what you do. The steel/alloy reaction, which (IMHO) has never been solved means an all steel monocoque - maybe - hopefully.. But a monocoque anyway - no separate chassis. Presumably it may be van/saloon/pickup adaptable like the present 90 but I doubt it. Rumours abound it will be based on the Disco3.. I thought a new model was due in 2010 at one time, I remember similar speculation a couple of years back and a sort of 'announcement' from LR??? I do like the Ibex, basically a box on wheels with no bulkhead behind the seats and very adaptable because of it. I almost bought one but couldn't really see the point as it came second in an old LRO test behind a standard 90, but that's irrelevant. If you like the present models, buy one and keep it forever.. You can gurantee any new one will be laden with electronics. I liked all my TD5's as I have been able to fix anything wrong myself (so far) but I am selling my recently acquired Disco 3 as the prospect of it needing main stealer attention scares me to death once it's out of warranty.. The K.I.S.S. principle works for me too.. (Keep It Simple, Stupid) but that's not the way of things in the auto industry. We can't run around in replica Series 1's, and I certainly don't want to.. I would like to see different options depending on what use it will be put to, such as ride quality, transmission options, load space. LR never seemed to fully understand that their customers don't all want to haul trailers full of sheep out of fields with 90's & 110's, expecting that those wanting comfort would buy a Disco or Rangey (at mega expense). You have to bear in mind that Land Rover are selling new vehicles which have to appeal to people who can afford to pay £20k upwards, they are absolutely not interested in oiks like me who buy secondhand 90's to play with. They are driven by sales, not sentimentality and can't afford to do otherwise.

Hi, yes, it is Autocraft.. I spoke to a guy there earlier today and I asked him if he had a silver pair (several colours mentioned in their ad.), and he said he was getting some 90's in from Ireland at the end of the week and there was a chance one of them might be silver.. However, as I can respray myself, I don't really mind but already the right colour would save time. If you're up for it, I simply want a good pair with no dings or corrosion as my 90 is fairly recent and low miles, I didn't want to get 25 year old corroded ones.. I haven't seen your ad., so if they fit the bill...?? Point me at the other forum? I do want genuine Landy windows in them, though.. You can phone me if you wish, 01463 741433 or email foxhole4bbATaol.com Replace AT with the symbol.. I need to get my 90 on the road PDQ.. Thanks a lot....

I desperately need a pair of 90 side panels and there's a breaker in S.Coldfield. Looking for help to eyeball a pair (he has a LOT!) as I live near Inverness and can't easily get down! Will pay a tenner (genuine!!) to cover time/ fuel. Many thanks!

Interesting. My wife pointed out that she would not like to be in any collision in the 90 due to the sharp edges everywhere and lack of airbags. Not much one can do about it, though.., apart from buying another vehicle.

Seems logical to me, guys.. I'll do some web searching for bits. SMO, is your motor an Ashcrofts conversion to auto..? Mega brownie points for me from wife if I converted mine..! I've looked into it a couple of times but price is a bit daunting, that's another TD5's worth of moolah!

My '02 90 is off the road for a few weeks having a couple of new panels and a partial respray. A friend had a head-on in her 110 last week in which a Peugeot 106 drunk driver decided that he no longer wanted a Peugeot 106 so what better way to write it off than to do 60mph round a blind, single track bend into a Landy towing a loaded horse trailer? Damage to 110, bent bumper end, leaking diff, knack'ed wheel. Damage to 106 - splattered. Luckily there were no injuries as the 110 was only doing 15mph - due to the blind bend and a horse on the back... It brought it home to us how accidents so can easily happen in the least likely places and I wondered how I can improve the safety of my 90. I'm pretty confident of coming off okay in an end-on collison, but what about the sides? There isn't much strength in a 90/110 door and IMHO any vehicle 'T' boning one wouldn't stop until it got to the chassis rail, which we sit above ! The two options I've thought of are rock sliders to replace the flimsy sills and a rollcage, but I don't go offroading, so a cage seems overkill. Or is it? Better overkill than killing us.. We live in the Highlands where foreign tourists and p****d locals doing stupid things on single track roads is rife. Anyone any ideas or advice, or experience of side-on impacts?? Away soon so can't reply from 6th - 13th..

I don't know if this is of any use to anyone , but today I removed the side panels from my 2002 90 without touching the full headlining at all.. I read a thread (somewhere...) that it may be necessary to undo the front bolts above the screen, but no.. The M6 bolts at the front upper edge of the side panels were pigs to undo, and I've no idea how I'll get them back (but the wife has smaller hands...). The M8 bolts which have a flange in the middle and which hold the sides to the tub at the front and on the rear corner made me scratch my head, but the front ones came out with some woggling and once all the M6 side panel/roof bolts were out and the M8 ones near the back door, I was able to lift up the back of the roof a little using a long board onto my trolley jack to get the rear corners up off the rear bolts. Also necessary to remove the rear door seal and the little bits of black goo and tape. Now for a lot of rubbing down and spraying.. (groan..) The non-standard window seals leaked and corroded the panels, hence the reason to remove them. I'm also replacing the two body (tub) cappings which had corroded badly. It's fun, but not much.. Don't leave your 90 out in the rain, it won't like it...

I'm thinking of buying a basic Disco 3 which has coil springs.. I wonder if I come to resell it whether I might have trouble parting with it, it not having the terrain response feature. That doesn't bother me as I rarely, if ever, go offroad. Basically, I need a comfortable tug for pulling a caravan and trailers and a 4WD road car and having coil springs, after having owned a multitude of 90's and Disco 2's doesn't bother me.. This is a follow-on from an earlier post answered by BogMonster, but I thought that continued post wouldn't answer this question for me.. Thanks for any replies..

It's his wife's kiddy transport.. (sob...) so he's probably never noticed a sticker and neither party seemed to know much about it. Parkers Boys Own Big Book of Prices reads that the 'S' adds cruise, bigger alloys, bi-xenon lights, satnav, heated screen, seats and washers, Harmon-Kardon audio and rear parking sensors. A lot for a 'basic' model, but I guess that's what it must be unless the sensors and upped audio are added extras, but I don't know if they were available as stand-alone items.. Being a 90 man for many years, I suppose I can learn to cope with all that stuff.. I see Parkers do an 'instant' valuation on the mobile phone using the registration for £1.50, so that may be useful... Thanks for the reply..

I'm going to look at a 2006 Disco 3 next week but the owner doesn't know which trim level it has, so I can't easily value it before I go (it's 100+ miles away). He says it's a 'basic' model, but it has rear parking sensors and a multi-CD player.. Can I assume it hasn't got air suspension having 5 (cloth) seats and with the stacking CD and parking sensors, does this make it an 'S'?? Any help appreciated.

Following your post, Jobo, I phoned the NFU national number and got a different story from their underwriting team!! It seems they would want a vehicle ID check - the guy didn't know what that was, but I assume it's a check that the chassis number matches the V5 (logbook) and a valid MoT cert. Why they want them, I can't imagine. Do they assume it may be a 'cut and shut' job because it's had a minor repair? So, I think wrong information coast me two flights and the opportunity to buy the Disco. I'll be writing to the branch office manager as it's sodding annoying. However, Direct Line said the same thing initially..

ARRGGGHHHH!! !! !! (sob....) My insurer, NFU, told me, although it was a girl in a branch office who may not have known for sure, BUT as a check I also called Direct Line on their national number and the guy I spoke to phoned thier claims department, and they came back to him with the fact that they would need to see the inspection report.. So, perhaps it depends what the damage was? I simply don't know.. The owner said that it was damage to a front corner, but knew no more than that.. Thanks for your message.. I just told my wife and I asked her if she was still interested in it. She replied that after yesterday she'd lost the will to live, let alone be interested in a motor!

It seems the 'notification of replies' didn't work (again!). Many thanks for all the useful gen, guys.. Just had a bit of a nightmare.. About to fly south this morning to look at a long-since repaired Cat.D Disco auto and about to go through departures when I discover, talking to the owner that he has no inspection report covering the repair. He bought it after it was repaired.. No-one would insure it without the report, so we came home. £140 flights down the drain.. The guy just didn't know.., I only found out at the last minute.. You live & learn! After reading the above, I think a manual would be a better bet, with a clutch servo (and re-map) for the lady of the manor..

My wife is nagging me to get an auto Disco TD5 to replace my 90. She's had several left leg injuries and would prefer an auto but could manage a manual. We're after a cheapish one to use as a tug mainly. In the past we've had test drives in three auto Disco's and we were under impressed. One dropped down two notches to get over a long hill my 90 sails up in 5th. Will the auto 'box react badly to a remap? One of the trailers we pull is about 2 tonnes loaded and we'd get nowhere fast in a standard auto Disco. What do owners think? Should I go for a manual instead..?

Thanks for that guys, I think the longer arms (on a police LDV - the long arms of the law??) would be good.. They can fold backwards a bit when solo.

Can anyone recommend extended mirrors with a decent sized glass which will attach to 90/110 standard mirrors, please? I have a pair which were okay on a car, but they don't fit the 90 mirrors well and the glass is small. Thanks.