lrfarmer
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Posts posted by lrfarmer
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well when your finnish i may see you down at C&D
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i do rtvs with the alrc and your not alowed dislocation cones
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jubilee clips all the way i have them on mine with standered springs
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It also greatly depends on what you wish to compete in and what body you wish to use. Most people use Defender/series body panels as its easy and cheap.
What comp safari do you want to do?
Do you want to do trialing?
Do you wish to do all the events or only play with a few clubs?
If you build an 88 inch to ALRC Spec you can trial, race almost 99% of all the events, but its short.
If you build a 100 inch and use a def/series body you are instantly ruled out of ALRC events,
you can build an 100 inch but must keep to the rules and run a disco or RRC shaped vehicle.
Depends on your really
My preference would be 88 inch for all round fun to ALRC Spec, Or for full out racing I'd build a 109 truck cab build it 108 you have an inch leaway with wheelbase again built to ALRC regs with the long overhang but make the panels out of ali and hang them on a lightweight steel angle frame. No good for anthing but comp safari tho really.
for comps i don't think it matters if you go 100 or 88 but if you go 88 you can have a play at the CCVs as well (most ccvs at C&D are set up with 80" so 88" is a bit long but you can have a bit of fun)
you could also talk to terry shepherd or matt braire for help with bulding up to ALRC rules
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i got someone of ebay to pick up my 110 cost £250 over 240miles witch was cheaper than i could have done it with my 90 & trailer (just the fuel would of cost that + full day to drive up and back).
try to find one cloce to the pick up point as thay should know the area better.
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my renewal cam the friday had gone up from £260 with brake down cover to £337
best quote i get was £240+ brake down cover form a company i've never heard of
got on the phone to NFU monday got them to £299,
so i have stayed with NFU as i know thay pay when you have an bump witch some make you work hard for any money
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i had this problem when trying to get paint for my 110 had to have the right colour made as it wasn't the sam as any(due to fading, age)
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i've found one shot dosn't getup to the top swivel
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Fancy a trip over to drop the sump on mine so we can have a looksee. LOL
I will say that the oil pressure gauge was on zero long, long before the Land Rover fitted warning light came on
. elbekko
What do you call a proper job ? tTo me that would be enging out, new liners, New crank, no re-grind.but there again I'm talking from what I've actually done. The oil pressure in my quick put together is still very good so I don't see the problem.
It's alright talking. Must do this, Must do that. Until the No 1 cap is dropped we don't know of the damage if any.
my tractors lose oil pressure if theres too much weir but land rovers may be much better, my tractor are 30+ years old and most have had a full rebuild
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if it was me i'd take the sump off, undo the big ends put a photo of the shells up if there very bad take the center main off if thats bad regrind needed as the center main get first pull on the oil so if that starts to go theres been no oil for a long time(engine wise)
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i can't think you get 3k for it as parts
but you may get that as a compleat motor
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hmm good adive guys
it is a factory fit 300tdi
oil was topped up immediately but i would say the noise is slowly getting worse, although that could well be my overactive defender hypercondriac mind kicking in lol
ive got some landrover mechanic friends, so am going to get them to have a look tomorrow for me
does anybody know a rough cost from a crankshaft regrind?
also if it came to getting a regrind can i get the crank out with the engine in place?
thanks again
tom
when we had a tractor crank done last year it was about £100
Really ???
I was talking to a mechanic last month. Telling him about my oil pump failure.
"Had one of those" he said. "Engine seized, customer couldn't afford to have it done properly, Took the shells out, cleaned the crank with emery. Fitted new shells and oil pump, that was six years ago and it's still running.
When Land Rover did the 300Tdi the made one hell of an engine. Strong and able to take that sort of misuse. I'm still suprised that mine runs fine. Well it did until I said it did. LOL Good oil pressure.One well knackered crank..... .
Tom
No you will have to take the engine out to remove the crank. When the crank is out check the nose of the crank for damage/ wear where the oil pump fits.
Get the sump off. Drop No 1 cap. Then decide.
well from my experance(mainly tractors) scoring tends to eat the new shells. we do 1 or 2 engines up each year
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any sign of scoring on the crank it will need regrinding
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get on the phone to your local office give them hell thay should get it to near were it was. my renewal is due next month we'll see how i get on.
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i alwes disconect the alternator i buggeredn one once and never did again
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less of a project but if i had the money i'd be tempted
http://www.winston-pincombe.co.uk/landrover-sales/detail/189.html
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i don't have a radio any way
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i' run my 90 200tdi with just the rear TD back box sound lovely
planing on doing simalar on my 300tdi ccver
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The Disco drop arm has hole so that you can fit a normal ball joint from above that screws into the end of the drag link. The only thing is that Discos don't have a steering damper, so there are adapations to be able to bolt a bracket onto the drag link to fit a steering damper for a Defender. Personally i'd prefer to leave it standard. If i copper grease the drop arm splines and keep the ball joint boot in good nick then it shouldn't really be a problem again. More details here: http://forums.lr4x4....?showtopic=8641 and here http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=70399 My new drop arm arrived today and the boot on the ball joint pre-installed looks cheap as chips. I may swap it with the Britpart one that I already fitted that looks better quality!
i've got a grease niple on my drop arm but the ball hasn't done 2 year and has play in it, and i only do 5-7k miles a year
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if it's any good to you i have a disco rear axle that i was going to sell in good nick but will need discs and pads
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Your original one would have had a thin press fit circular lip. This has corroded away. Replacement balljoint kits usually don't come with replacement press on lip. Even if they did, your arm is likely to be too corroded at the cup edge for a press on lip to stay on.
New/replacement arms usually have a cast lip which helps keep the boot on.
If you want to save yours, you need to make up a new circular lip (eg from a wire coat hanger) and tack it on with a couple of tacks from a mig welder.
If you can't do this, you need a new arm, because you won't get a boot to stay on.
Hope this helps,
Regards,
Diff.
you could use a cerclip to hold it in place
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i've got the same problem thats why i'm putting a disco arm on mine
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looks like repair but been well done,(i wouldn't worry if it was on my truck).
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maybe X-pedlock,
and X-gearlock if you do one for the gear stick
homemade spare wheel carrier anyone made one?
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?app=galleryℑ=6536
this is my one i made