lrfarmer
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Posts posted by lrfarmer
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200 for strength
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just got my self a 3 in 1 inverter welder, plasma cutter, tig. 50amp
i've done mig, stick and gas welding, am looking for would to teaching myself to tig
hoping i can learn
good luck with the rest of your corse.
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Then surely your thermostat is duff....?
i thort so too took it out and didn't open till 82'c
What about your 110?
heater works atreat have to turn the heater off on long jouneys it runs 90'c+ can't do much towing at the mo, may have to put new rad on
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its all well and good getting your heater set up right - but my tdi struggles to warm the coolant sufficiently on my morning journey to make the heater matrix worth having!
engine gets up to temp, but not hot enough to force open the thermostat and actually noticably warm the rest of the coolant!!!!!!! Now if my commute involved a good motorway blast where i could get some heat into the engine, brilliant - but unfortunately sat around 20-40mph doesnt generate enough heat to get the thing going. Radiator muff is on the cards for tomorrow.
my 90 runs at 60'c unless i put the muff on
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i use my insa turbo ST one and around the farm and if driving carefully thay make less mess than the AT but if i get stuck it takes long to recover than getting stuck in the AT tyres
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Mate of mine has de-catted and de-silenced his 300tdi and I thought I might do the same to my 200 but after a day out in his the other day it got on my nerves that amount of noise. Ok on play days but not for greenlaning in my opinion.
Mates contemplating putting the cat back in to see how much it would quieten down.
i've taken the center box out on mine and left the rear box it's change the tone but not much louder,
Pickup was alot better
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i use a old half power hacksaw blade grownd to a nife edge
or an old file are good as there stronger
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there is a book, IIRC they used these books in the scrapheap challenge scrappy races, when the barley pickers made that beast of a lorry/tractor thing.
ive been trying to find that episode online for a while now. id like to see it again haha
did't thay regester it as a tractor in the end
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do you need to fit the auto peddal box, on my CCVer i'm taking the clutch peddal off and modding the brake peddal to take a auto peddal rubber
the kick down cable fits on the other side of the injector rocker the throtle cable is no different on mine
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nice, but looks like you need to learn panel beating on your front wing haha
no just adds charm
looks a good project
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cemical metal wont be ideal as it need to make good contact as the main power go's through it to the torch
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If you need a "stop gap" and don't have any luck elsewhere, when I had a similar problem I made up an "adaptor" by cutting the standard pipe and brazing a male hydraulic fitting onto it. My temporary fix has lasted 4 years so far and has outlasted the steering box !
i did this on my 90 when i fitted my disco engine. i've had no problems
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i picked up a td5 back along the only thing i was thinking is you can fit 2 8" electric fans wich i was hopping would improve cooling at slow speeds
the 2.8lt shougun has a 6" fan for slower speeds
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so there isn't 1 contact for each sid just on and i take it must split at the relay un less there is relays for each side
i hate electrics
thank you for your help so far
i'm hoping to fix it before sunday as i have my last RTV of the year and leave in the dark and come home it it too
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is there a relay on the light or is it all done on the switch
if on the switch is there 2 contacts or dose the wire split
is it split before or after the fuses
as there is full power at the fuses
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i've seen just the thing you after on some CCVers in my club and was thinking i want them when i build my CCVer i think there tomcat progressive spings
i've got +2" shocks and had the fix top and bottom as the top keeped comming out
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hi hope someone can help as i can't find any posts that covers it
last night the right hand dip beam went out so checked fuse's fine so checked bulb also fine
there is 12V on the dip wire but as soon as i put the bulb dose not lite and the power drops right off
the main beam works fine so dont think it is the earth
left light is working as it should
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i have to fit my own as all my tyre shops won't tubes in tubless tyres
tyres shops just do my ballencing now
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any 10 spline diff will fit
very easy to do on the rear just drain oil, pull half shafts out, undo rear prop, undo ring of nuts holding diff in.
diff will be out, refit in reverse
first time sould be done in an hour
i've got to do it on my 110's front diff keep putting it off
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280728697802?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
i've got one of these fitted much better than the land rover one
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i got the disco engine in my 90 so the viscous fan hit the steering box and i can't get a cowling that would fit so i have a 14"fan on the rad,
i dont need to the fan unless i towing and hard RTVs
( drove to hay-on-wye with the caravan on didn't need the fan on the motorway but once i got on the smaller roads i did need the fan)
but i did have a 12" fan but towing the caravan overheated wasn't anuff air flow
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i wouldn't rate them very highly fore road tyres as thay can corse trubble with balancing
and i think the OKO dose say on the bottle not for road use( but may be wrong)
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well the wind has changed and is getting colder
TIG Welding - A Mature Stuudunts (iinit) Report
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
7and 8 look good other than the stop in the middle
are you using a peddle tig or button on torch tig