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V8david

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Posts posted by V8david

  1. Definitely ATF. It says in the owners handbook in mine. I remember doing it, I had the filler plug out of the transfer box and a 5 litre bottle of ATF and I thought "how the f*ck am I gonna pour that in there?!?" :lol:

    Anyway, cut a long story short, I poured it into one of them oil cans with a pump. Not used said pump since, it still has ATF in the bottom, so that's what I used...

    Took alot of pumping though! :lol: But luckily I am a complete w@*ker! :lol:

  2. I picked up my first Classic a few months back since then its been a good learning curve.

    Yes we could all spend ages pouring over the workshop manual and I frequently do (to learn more about my car) but I don't see why people should have a problem with people asking questions, even stupid questions, as we've all been newbies at some stage and the great knowledgable ones should be happy to pass on their wisdom, I hope to one day. A quick question on here can save hours of reading and swearing.

    By the way, I love my Classic and I think I'm hooked for life, maybe one day I'll afford a brand spanker

    Well said Dr W, that's exactly my point. I also pour over manuals before starting a job, but there's nothing better than asking someone who's actually done it. Also, being new to all this, the terminology used in the manuals isn't always easy to understand, in fact sometimes it's as simple as just not knowing what a word means. Still learning though, and loving it. Like you say I think I'm stuck on Range Rovers for life. Unless those person I'm not that keen on in Westminster ban them! :lol:

  3. It means that most of the 38A owners who post on here on other topics are competant enough to look after 38As without screaming for assistance over every little thing. Either they know competant mechanics who will do the job for them (and can afford to pay for the service), or they don't have any hold-ups about reading Workshop Manuals, so can 'fish for themselves', as I saw someone else put it.

    V8David wrote "Just a quick thought. Load of rubbish really."

    Yep, on reflection, you got that right.

    Cheers

    Jesus David Sparkes! :blink: Supposed to be a joke! Bit of fun between all the technical stuff. Truth is i'd love a P38, and an L322, infact a few of each, and a bunch of Classics. Thing is I just love Range Rovers, they're vehicle perfection in my view.

    I started the topic because my very good mate Gav (see above post) has just purchased a really nice P38 and I thought I'd start a "what's the best Range Rover" thread for a laugh to celebrate. And it worked, he couldn't resist!

    So that's all it was David Sparkes, a bit of fun. But if i'm not allowed a bit of humour on here then I wont bother. I'll just stick to technical questions. In fact not even that. Don't want to come across as "screaming for assistance". Miserable git.

    Cheers

    p.s. Also David Sparkes, some of us are on a learning curve here and do ask questions about what you may consider to be 'simple' problems. Some of us haven't been working on cars for long. We're not all born with an encyclopedic knowledge of motor vehicles. Or would you prefer no questions? Would you prefer that the people who know, know, and the people who don't, don't. Door closed.

  4. Just a quick thought. Load of rubbish really. I also frequent the RR Forum on Landyzone.com and I've noticed that it's mostly P38s and even L322s no less. Whereas this forum is mostly Classics. Which I must say I much prefer. So my question is this...

    Does this mean that it is a generally higher class of people on this forum?!?! :lol: Or, dare I say it... true enthusiasts?!? :lol::lol:

    :( bracing myself for the kicking :(:ph34r:

  5. But how long before they sag and you have the problem back gain via "Settlement" as they call it :lol: (I call it ****part quality issues)

    I put Britpart standard replacement springs on my RR a couple of years back. It's now definitely 'settled' to the right! I'm getting some expensive springs when I've got the cash. For now i'll just have to look fat...

    Regarding front and back weights, according to the manual I'm sure it says the back of the car is heavier than the front, even unladen. I put the springs on by length. Supplier said, to my supprise, that the longer pair are the rear pair. Which now makes sense with the weight thing. Still doesn't get past the fact they've now sagged! So this is all just waffle really :lol: apologies... Hope the problem is sorted for you mate.

  6. Thanks for all the advice guys, much appreciated. I've got new pushrods to go in as well. Started off with a persistent ticking tappet, so I thought I'd replace the cam as well, then I got to thinking "while i'm in there"! Hence replacing everything up top. I'm also replacing the head gaskets while i'm down there, still on the originals from '89. I've got composite ones as replacements, any advice/tips on replacing head gaskets? I know about not tightening certain bolts on the heads when refitting.

    How do I check lifter preload?

    Thanks again

    David

  7. 3.9 standard cam in a 3.5 is a good idea in my experience, gives you a bit more bottom end grunt, at the expense of some idle smoothness (big deal!)

    What he said ^^^!

    Quite a few have recommended it so i'm giving it a go. With new timing gear, followers, rocker gear etc. Everything was going along nicely til they sent the steel instead of the original rockers.

    Just saw in another thread about changing cam bearings to take a 3.9 shaft, but by the sound of it, no need.

    Thanks for all the replies anyway. I'm new to all this and it can get a bit :blink::huh::o:blink::unsure::unsure::unsure:

  8. I'm not changing anything and I ordered originals but the f@#king w@nkers sent me steel. Took em 2 weeks to send that.

    Look here rockers

    Now they look f@#king aluminium to me, no mention of steel. So I was wandering if it mattered? Don't think I can face waiting another 2 weeks while they sort it out.

    Not doing anything special. Just putting in a new cam, timing bits, followers, rocker gear etc. due to ticky taps and timing getting a bit tired.

  9. Ive had two go now, both replaced with solid roofs and the wiring used for toys!

    Ha! Well yes, I guess that's the next option, lose the bloody thing altogether! :lol:

    Will give it a go though, looks like we might get 10-15 minutes of sunshine this year so would be nice to get it open! Bet when I do get it open it wont shut! :blink::lol:

  10. Well, the latest bit of british leyland magic on my RR to go on strike is the sunroof. I have a 1989 3.5 Efi with electric metal sunroof. It tips up at the back, in the sort of vent position, but it wont go back into the roof to fully open. I looked on top while pressing the button and the back of the sunroof is trying to drop down to go into the roof, but it seems to be sticking and trying to take the roof with it at the back.

    Last time I used it it would go eventually if I rocked the switch a few times. Almost looks as if I lubed the seal along the back of the sunroof it would drop in and be on it's way. Is there any scope for adjusting it? Just needs to be forward a fraction to drop in. So frustrating! :angry:

    Any ideas/advice much appreciated!

  11. I think it's something to do with blend motors. Do a search of the forum. Don't know anything about the job but I know it's a pain in the arse from other threads. Someone'll be along in a bit who owns one of those new-fangled P38 things! They should be able to help.

  12. If yours moves as it did before being fitted then it should be OK.

    Cheers paintman. Yeah, seemed fine before I put it back on the vehicle, no creeking since. Didn't move in the press during the job, all very gentle! Reckon all is fine.

    set to with a large lump hammer

    I wondered if that would work at the time! Never tried it though. I was absolutely shattered from smacking the old one out with a claw hammer! My right arm felt like jelly! I'll stop now because i'm setting myself up for a load of exerciseer jokes :lol:

    Edited to remove naughty word. DEANO

  13. Thanks for all the advice guys. Job was total success. Took it to a local engineering place in the end for the press. Thing I will say though in reply to Si's point, when they stuck it in the press they pressed straight down on the ball joint stem to get it in. Is that bad?! :blink: Haven't had any probs yet! Is it for stability rather than damaging the joint?

    Cheers

    David

  14. Where in Worcestershire are you Silvertemper? I'm in Herefordshire and if you can make it as far as Hereford there's a brilliant bloke for welding RRC's near me. Used to work for landrover and has owned/does own loads of his own. He did a really tidy job on my rear seatbelt mounts. Like the other guys said if you do as much prep work as you can yourself it shouldn't strain your wallet too much! I painted the repairs afterwards and put the carpets back.

    If you are thinking of having a crack yourself you could always hire a welder for a couple of days.

    Also, if Hereford's too far then there are lots of independant LR specialists in the Herefordshire/Worcestershire area. Try searching Yell maybe.

    Good luck mate. I think I can safely say we've all been there!

  15. Thanks Steve, will do. Start putting it all back together tomorrow so will give an update.

    Definitely keep this updated. Really interesting. I'm starting the same job on mine soon so I'd be really interested to see it going back together.

    Keep up the good work

    Cheers

    David

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