orange rover
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Posts posted by orange rover
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I've looked at a twin alternator setup but I've not found I need it, even though I run twin motor gigglepin winches in front ant rear.
But then I run twin exide maxxima's (50Amp hous each) and a optima PC2250 (126Amp hours).
My alternator is a standard 100Amp for a V8
Putting a single big alternator on reduces the low speed Amp output of the alternator so you have to rev the engine more and they are very expensive to get another 50Amp.
Also some people go for 2 different banks of batteries one for the winches and one for the engine, but this wastes a lot of potential as the alternator charging the engine battery only needs to output about 8 Amps.
I found a system to run 2 alternators on one battery bank (http://www.adverc.co.uk/product/18), designed for twin engine boats and high electrical demand vehicles like ambulances.
As for mounting the second alternator I only seen to done on a 2.8 tgv engine, not a TD5
thanks - looked at the boat system. don't necessarily want (another) electric box on the truck, so maybe theres a easier solution? heard that one can use two diodes after each alternator preventing the electricity to flow back to the alternator.
nounting on the td5 doesn't look to complicated
cheers
cheers
spec
would like the second alternator also for redundancy.
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Unless you want to go for 24V for winches etc I would suggest that one big one would be a better solution?
it would be, but on the td5 the vacuum pump is on the alternator so it needs to stay
also would like a alternator that sits on top of the engine so that it gets less mud and lasts a bit longer.
looking for another 12v, no 24v planned
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want to install a second alternator on the td5. best place place would be the location of the aircon compressor. anyone done it? how do i connect two alternators to the vehicle electrics?`
cheers
spec
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hi david,
do you have a picture of the 90 degree connector? the one that will screw into the calliper and connect to a braided hose pn the other? cheers spec
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Having bow read the post and thus seen the application I would suggest the easiest is have a pair of stainless hoses off me with a straight one end and a 90 the other to go all the way from the caliper to the T.
With your forum discount and inc vat and P&P that would be £ 31.35
Otherwise if you really want to go across the axle in steel / copper then use some banjo adaptors and bolts that would come off the caliper at 90' and allow you to screww an ordinary female tube nut onto the end of them - these would be 3/8"unf though not M10x1 when you are buying the tube nuts before flaring the pipe
David
david - thanks for your answer and email.
we have stainless hose from the t all the way to the end of the axle. for protection, the stainless sits in a u shaped profile on top of the axle. we need the last bit, standard connection to a stainless and then 90 degree to a calliper. we prefer to not use one long special hose so that we can replace using standard LR hoses in case of failure. will have exact measurements tommorrrow.
still wondering whether 90 degree bend or banjo ist the better choice. how does the 90 degree connector to stainless look like. is it a tube nut with a bent tube or a solid 90 degree connector. would prefer not to have copper tube if at all possible.
cheers
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The problem with arbs heavy duty airline is that if anything gets up in there and pulls on the pipe it is likely to rip the bulkhead fitting out of the diff casing, to repair this neds an axle strip down. Now while i appreciate that the push fittings arent ideal, the simplest and easiest solution to them is to fit a straight push fit connector in the airline about 6 - 8 inches from the diff housing, if anything gets caught up in the pipe it will pull this straight connection apart, so long as youve got some spare push fit connectors it takes about 30 seconds to repair and youve got a locker to use for the rest of the day!!!!!!!
James
i've routed mine so that the chances of something getting caught are very low. rear, directly to a frame, front not straight up but sidewards on top of axle and then on top of trailing arm. has worked well.
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looking for brake connectors with a 90 degree bend that screw into a defender rear caliper. idea is to route the rear brake hose directly from the caliper out of harms way to the top of the axle. the rest of the pipe has already been relocated there, just looking for the last piece. anyone knows where to get connectors like that?
cheers
spec
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I'm about to plumb in an ARB and sort out an onboard air setup. For a few reasons I'm planning on using common 6mm pneumatic tube and fittings for the ARB istead of the standard valves, 5mm tube and bulkhead fitting, but wasn't sure what was required to connect the 6mm tube to the ARB locker. I had search on here but the closest answer was to tap the existing fitting to BSP.
I've just come across this thread on Pirate 4x4 which has a lot of useful information on the subject including all the thread sizes. I do appologises if this thread and information was already well known.
i jused the arb heavy duty airline to connect to the diff and then went 6 mm from there.
http://www.devon4x4.com/products_a/p191c12...y-air-line.html
they are quite expensive for what they are but good idea to get rid of the plastic hose near the axle imho anyhow - i snapped that various times
the other side of the arb heavy duty airline will accept a standard 6mm connector
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looking for the oil cooler adaptor plate for the r380
aka 'Housing - transmission thermostat, V8" FTC2687
anyone got any idea where to get one from, quite expensive from the main dealer.
does it actually have a thermostat inside?
cheers
spec
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These felt strips used to be extremely expensive in the past, but the price has come down lately. Part No is MWC4757. The part book says one needs 12 of them, but my 110 had other slides at the bottom, so 8 would have been enough. Sold by Britpart, BTW...
i found the part number of the felt strips, but don't see where 12 of the felt strips would go. from the picture i would have thought 1 at the top for each window.
cheers
spec
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Mine never rattled - they sit in felt U-channels to prevent rattling.
Les.
i think these are missin in mine....
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just took the first trip wirth the new series doors and military door tops. i like them - you can keep the back window open and branches don't hit you
BUT they make a horrible rattling noice weith the glas hitting the frame while driving. any cure for that?
the other problem i found with the series doors is that the have no downward support throug the hath mechanism when closed, so the doors move donwards in the back when driving. so i needed to readjust them a couple of times.
cheers spec
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I am looking for any steering box alternative. Which would be the strongest one what is fitting somehow to a defender chassis? The discovery 2 box is weak, the hydro is uncontrolable between the hills on the fast romanian races. We have portals and 16" wide boggers.
Any suggestion?
P38 are supposedly zf and should be stronger than disco II
i've seen someone using one from a nissan - seem to fit quite nicely
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i think the discussion is less fox vs OME but coilovers against standard setup. i am in the process of converting to coilovers and find that it has many advantages compared to the standard setup. coilover springs are available in all lenghts and rates at very fair prices (i paid 60 a piece for my eibachs) and when using 2 springs on top of each other one can realize a truly progressive setup. furthermore coil overs solve all the issues with springs leaving their seats and bending sidewards in articulation. furthermore one can adjust ride height and sag quite easily.
if you look at the various coil over shocks available you'll find setups that don't necessarily come much more expensive than a good standard setup. one fox 2.0 coilover 7/8 shaft is about 300 sterling + 120 for two springs, not too bad for a very good setup. if one is prepared to pay just over 1000 sterling a corner then you get one coilover + one external bypass a corner which is pretty much as high end as you can go.
the major difference between standard and coil overs is that fitting involve quite a lot of fab work, whereas a standard setup is a bolt on job. of course one shouldn't forget that using a standard setup in racing will most likely require dual shocks, and that again will result in some fab work, especially up front since none of the bolt on turrets are any good to my experience.
IMHO - if one is prepared to do the fab, coil overs are the way to go.
cheers
spec
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sorry to jump on the thread. i understand that the steering rod an panhard rod should be paralell in order to avoid bump steer. are there any other things to watch out for with regards to mounting the panhard rod. does it matter where the rod connects to the axle, i.e. on top or bottom?
cheers
spec
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Built up to suit the specification of the vehicle it will be fited to, so not a generic bulkhead that fits both, the pedal slots on the drivers footwell on a RHD version are non existent on the passenger side footwell, just a single sheet of steel.the large hole for the heater duct to pass thourgh is not on the drivers side of a RHD bulkhead, so there must be 2 pressings for each type.
i converted a 96 defender from RHD to LHD. with regards to the bulkhead, some fixings where there some not, so it needed some work but it wasn't too bad.
cheers
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decided to go with the heater from cbs
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/45kw-heater-heat-301-p.asp
it arrived today. looks nice, very compact and will fit quite nicely.
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Heated screen in my 110 workd better than the climate control etc. in the BMW !!
Neil
sounds interesting - do you think it would be able to cope with misty conditions in a racer with high humidity caused by water crossing etc. would be better than a heating cause it wouldn't heat up the cab which is mostly too hot in racing conditions anyhow.
cheers
spec
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Las time I serviced a K+N filter, I removed and replaced it with
a standard paper element. Took about 1 minute and no mess.
true - best service i've ever done to my K+N
anyone wants it for their jap spoiler toy?
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Errm (scratching behind ear to find an answer) Yes, that stuff smells like hell but after a week or so it is over. It is also a way of warding off an auntie who loves calling me at odd hours for shopping 
I currently have not seen any trace of h2o in my truck!!well i can think of other smelly solutions to ward off auntie. and they don't have to be permanent....
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That would be fantastic - but judging by the post below your post your unit probably would not fit as I have a LHD and yours is I believe RHD ?
Thanks anyway
Adam
mine is LHD - i live in Austria - unit sits on the right (passenger side)
cheers
spec
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Been away for a while - well actually just in-active and/or lurking
I did post a while back, and got no answer, regarding the fan motor for the in-cab heating and de-mister. This is the motor that sits in the engine compartment and turns the fan that blows the air over the element and into the ducts. Mine is burnt and I cannot find a replacement as there are few breakers here and even less Defenders to break (they last for ever). If anyone can help me locate a new or used motor I will gladly send the cost and beer tokens for service.
The other problem I have is that the rubber seals on the base of the brake fluid resevoir are leaking - sometimes alot and sometimes not at all but they are leaking and usually when the LR is left standing rather than during use. Does any one know where I can lay my hands on some new seals as here they sell only the complete booster + resevoir as one part and for crazy money.
Any help much appreciated.
TIA
Adam
i am getting rid of my heater unit
quite new - runs well (for dfender standards anyhow)
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=40566
if you want it --> pm
cheers
ulf
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Car Builder Solutions do two types of small heaters. A proper one and an electric demister as already mentioned but looks to fit your request for something a little more robust.
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/heatac-95-c.asp
Steve
some excellent ideas - good stuff - thanks to everyone!
coming back to the heated windscreen - anyone tried that?
would that work without fans?
or maybe together with two of the demister unist from car builder solutions would maybe do a perfect job.
cheers
spec
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I did use a sticky stuff which is more like Coal Tar but really hardens like a rock when oxygenated ( My thoughts are more when exposed to air). I have used it all around the car after I realized it warded off water from the footwell!!! 
isn't that a bit smelly?
Errm (scratching behind ear to find an answer) Yes, that stuff smells like hell but after a week or so it is over. It is also a way of warding off an auntie who loves calling me at odd hours for shopping 
I currently have not seen any trace of h2o in my truck!!
I did use a sticky stuff which is more like Coal Tar but really hardens like a rock when oxygenated ( My thoughts are more when exposed to air). I have used it all around the car after I realized it warded off water from the footwell!!! 
Wolf / Army doors
in Military Forum
Posted
bringing this up again - anyone knows the number for the anti burst door locks?
cheers
spec