[Serie 2a gearbox. Doing without the 3/4 synchro?]

Your right Bill. As i see it the springs only pressurise the rings when you start the shifting motion and as long as they are in the recesses in the pillars they push the ring against the cone. After the ring hits the cone the springs come out of the recesses and the dogteeth engage. The rings are then no longer pressed against the cone and are able to move arround a bit.

I was at my parts supplier yesterday and he showed me some other ones for comparison.

One was from Bearmach. One a very worn genuine one from a 2a gearbox he took apart not to long ago and one new old stock for a serie 3 suffix D box.

Mine is 100% identical to the new one from Bearmach. The rivets that hold the rings to the pillars differ from the rivets on the genuine parts.

The main thing i noticed was that the leafsprings on the two genuine ones were a lot firmer. Even on the very worn 2a synchro. I had to apply more force to twiste the inner hub against the pillars. The springs on mine and the Bearmach version feel sloppy.

I also made some pictures of the scoring on mine. The very worn 2a one had no scoring on the pillars at all by the way.

I also noticed that the serrated theeth on 1 side of the rings are higher than on the other side while the serrations are not worn away.

Both rings have this. Looks to me like the rings were not centred properly when they were machined.

LRseries told me they still have the genuine article in stock. Not cheap though. I decided to order one. I'm having far to many problems with pattern parts the last couple of years.

Cheers

Eric.

[Serie 2a gearbox. Doing without the 3/4 synchro?]

The springs hold the thing in the engaged positions or the neutral position. If you cut the rings off and sought to rely on the centre selector ring and the springs it might work but there may be trouble with the ring movement not being restrained by the synchro rings and moving too far.

In my opnion the centre hub is held in neutral and engaged position by the detent springs and balls on the slector shaft and not by the leafsprings in the schynchro clutch. The leafsprings only hold the synchro rings in the centre position when not engaged and prefent it from rattling.

Correct me if i'm wrong.

My idee was to drill out the 3 rivets that hold 1 ring to the pillars and slide of centre hub. Discard the rings, pillars and leafsprings and only use the centre hub.

The reason i took the gearbox apart is that i had a ticking noise in 3 and 4 under power. Mainly between 50 and 70 Km/h. More prominent in 4th and getting less as the box got warmer.

I suspected the synchro clutch and what i have found is that the 3 leafsprings are still in there place but there are severe scoring marks on the sides of the 3 hourglass shaped pillars. The ring on the centre hub is rattling against the pillars under power.

I'm trying to figure out why it does that. The rest of the box is in very good shape. Its an overhauled box from Whitehouse and son that has done 20000Km in 1 1/2 years. All the bearings and gears seem fine.

The only other thing a found is that with only the mainshaft and its big bearing in the box i can wiggle it a bit.

There is no play on the bearing itself but the outer race of the bearing moves a little bit in the carrier. There is no evidence of it turning in the carrier though. When i fit the bellhousing with the front mainshaft needle bearing in de primairy pinion the mainshaft is solid with no play.

As Bill states. There are a lot of serie Landrovers running arround with the 1 or more leafsprings missing from the synchro but in my opnion that must make a lot of noise and a lot of wear on the pillars as it rattles about.

Cheers,

Eric.

[Serie 2a gearbox. Doing without the 3/4 synchro?]

Hello all,

I have the gearbox in parts on the workbench and i had a bit of a think today.

I like unsynchronised boxes and have been driving them a lot in my live.

Seeing that the 3 leafsprings in the synchro clutch are prone to breaking and in the worst case jamming up the box.

Wouldn't it be possible to discard the synchro rings and just use the centre hub with the gears.

Or would it be near impossible to get into gear because of the straight teeth on hub and in primairy pinion and third gear?

Cheers,

Eric.

[Revvs up on its own]

Hi there,

the only thing that will 'spin' the turbo is the exhaust gassess, so i'ts actually the engine running away that increases gas flow - which in turn spools the turbo creating more vacuum on the fresh air side of the turbo and sucks more fuel up the boost tube from the FIP - which then fuels the engine increasing exhaust gas flow - and so on.

As far as I know the wastegate is exactly that and only opens on to let exhaust gas bypass the turbine and so prevents wear and tear - although I am no turbo expert

disconnecting the boost tube from the turbo will prevent the engine running away - infact if the diaphram is damaged anyway then you could argue that it is surplus to requirements! At least if the truck doesn't run away with itself when this is disconnected you can be pretty sure that you have found the problem.

Any way there should be an adult along shortly who can give you a definitive answer

I can't see how the fuel can go up the boost tube towards the turbo as there should be boost pressure going down the tube towards de boost diaphram.

Even at idle the turbo is spinning and the only way the fuel is going to go up this tube is if the fuel pressure is higher than the turbo pressure.

If the fuel pressure at the diaphram is only at spill-pipe pressure it is not very high I should think.

Or am I missing somerhing?

[What have you got done then?]

Yesterday i stuffed myself with good food and washed it down with some alcoholic beverages.

This afternoon i went for a little drive and a bit off play at an off-road site nearby where i also had the chance to test my new ground anchor.

Test result: It works!

Cheers Eric.

[Air Filter Leaking Oil - 200tdi]

The drop in oil pressure might be due to your engine getting a bit tired which will also raise the crankcase pressure due to the wear on the pistonrings.

The higher crankcase pressure brings more oil under the valve cover.

Changing to a thicker oil in combination with de low temperatures only makes the problem worse because the thicker oil has more problems running back down to the sump i.e. even more oil stays on top under the valve cover and gets blown into the air filter.

Better change back to 15W40 and have the compression en oilpump checked