MikeAK
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Posts posted by MikeAK
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Hi,
Might be worth having a look at Forscan https://forscan.org/home.html
It does lots of what would normally be main dealer diagnostics and programming. I've used it for programming several Ford and Mazda keys as well as coding new ecu/modules etc.
If you look at the website there's a fairly comprehensive list of whats supported on which models by the various versions.
You use it with an ELM327 interface (ebay £10 - £20).
Mike
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Hi,
I had this a couple of years back, when you refitted the modulator did you put the clevis pin in the correct hole in the brake pedal? On mine ('92 hard dash) there were two, with it in the wrong hole the brakes were partially applied even with the pedal fully up so as soon as system pressurised the brakes locked up.
Mike
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Bowie69 that's great.
Thanks for the quick reply
Regards
Mike
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Hi,
As the title, can anyone tell me what the thread type and size is for the bolts that fasten the bell housing to the rear of the engine.
I need to pick up some bolts tomorrow to mount an engine on a stand but don't currently have access to one to check the size.
Engine is from 1987 3.5 V8 RRC.
Thanks
Mike
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Hi,
Attempted to change my rear callipers today, but the new ones don't fit!
Its a 1992 3.9 Vogue SE with ABS.
I ordered STC5889 (RH) and STC5890 (LH) which are listed in Microcat for my VIN
Microcat also says mine should be attached with 7/16 UNF hex head bolts, but the ones fitted have M12 bolts with 12 point heads.
The M12 bolts won't go though the holes in the new callipers. Also the hole spacing looks like it may be slightly different but its hard to tell.
I suspect the rear axle has been changed at some point in the past.
I've know there are metric and imperial callipers but I always thought that referred to the brake fluid fitting not the mounting bolts, or is it both? Also seen references to metric and imperial axles, so now I am completely confused.
Does anyone know what part numbers of callipers with M12 mounting holes were fitted to Rangerover classics?
Thanks
Mike
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Hi,
You could try looking at http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53&Itemid=56 free diagnostic sofware for EAS. The download also has pdf of instuctions to make diagnostic cable.
I've used it several times to diagnose both classics and p38s. You get proper fault information, much easier than guessing at what the ecu is unhappy with. It also clears the fault codes and resets the system.
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Hi,
Just checked on my 3.9 and that only has one nipple going to the fuel pressure regulator. But I remember my old 3.5 had two the second one going to the overrun vacuum switch which operated a relay to stop injection on overrun. This system was never fitted to 3.9 and 4.2 (as far as I know).
the vacuum nipples are not on the plenum itself but on the separate casting the IAC screws into maybe that has been swapped for the wrong one at sometime in the past? In which case you could just blank off the extra nipple.
On mine the cruise control has a separate electric vacuum pump and the vacuum reservoir for the heater controls is connected near the front offside of the plenum so I don't think it would be either of those.
Mike
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Hi,
My 1992 RRC has developed an intermittent air suspension fault. It intermittently does not "see" the vehicle speed and transmission Park signals.
I have confirmed that these signals are missing at the ECU connector when the faults(s) are present, so it a wiring fault rather than an ECU fault. Also speedo and starter inhibit work correctly so the sensor/switches are OK.
So before I start pulling out seats and carpets I'm wondering if anyone knows if the air suspension loom is integrated with the main wiring loom or if it's a separate plug in loom (like the engine injection loom). If it's a separate loom where is the plug located? I think that would be a good place to start looking.
Thanks
Mike
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Hi Duncan,
When I did mine I made a tray out of some scrap ally sheet I had lying around and attached it to the original mounts under the decker panel. It's a bit fiddly but it can be done through the vent opening.
The values I used are 0R5, 1R5 and 2R0 all 50W. Highest value for lowest speed obviously.
I got mine from Farnell, part numbers 9508058, 9508198 and 9508287
Mike
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Hi again,
When you say the warning light now flickers is that just by itsself or with the handbrake light.
Both should come on with the handbrake but with the handbrake off the overtemp light will not put the handbrake light on.
So if both flicker with the handbrake handbrake off the fault is in the handbrake switch circuit, if its just the overtemp light the fault is in the temerature switch circuit.
Even thogh its a manual I think all BW transfer boxes have the switch, from what I remember its hard to see from underneath the vehicle.
It is wired in parallel with the autobox switch which would be on cooler in front of the rad. I wouldn't be suprised if the wires are there on a manual but taped up in the loom.
Regards
Mike
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Hi,
It is a transmission temp warning light, it comes on also with the handbrake as a lamp test. its a simple switch to earth so a short to body/chassis will make it illuminate. Had this on mine, when I researched light is common fitment accross later RRC's both diesel and V8. I think some just have gearbox temp switch and some have gearbox and transfer temp switches wired in parallel. Its some time ago so this is from memory, but its not complicated just check out the wiring diagram.
Mike
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Coincidentally I was having a look a mates RRC on the car park at work today. He was having similar symptoms, high idle speed varying between about 1000 and 1500 rpm, different every time it was started. Whilst have a poke around under the bonnet I nudged the convoluted hose between AFM and plenum with my elbow, idle speed immediatly changed! Took hose off and it has a leak, not a split but worrn very thin with many pinprick holes where the convoutions seemed to have been rubbing against each other. The affected area was only over a couple of convolutions in the middle where it bends and only underneath where it couldn't be seen until removed.
Wrapped some self amalgamating tape round it and the idle was back to normal.
Probably worth pulling yours of an checking it
Mike
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Sorry I meant to say in my previous post I used Grange Lane Garage in Accrington Lancs.
Mike
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Rovergauge allows you to view either short or long term fuel trims. The short term fuel trims will tell you what the lambda sensors are doing.
Mike
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Have you checked the base idle setting? If this is wrong it can give all sorts of weired idle faults including what you describe. Had the same symptoms on my RRC and changed the stepper twice before realising the base idle was wrong. Strange idle faults due to bad base idle settings are oftem mis-diagnosed as a sticky stepper. After setting disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes to clear the learnt idle positions.
You set it by pulling of the rubber pipe to the stepper housing and pluging the ends, then set the idle to the specified value using the bypass screw on the plenum near the throttle. From memory base idle spec for mine was 525 RPM but its all the RAVE manual if you want to check. Adjusment should be done with engine fully warm.
I have been using Rovergauge for a couple of months and its excellent no problems getting it to work and its practially free, only cost is for the FTDI TTL serial cable. I found one on E-Bay for £12.00. Shows all live values and fault codes, even shows the 2D load speed map and the current position.
Mike
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I had this inspected last week by a LPGUK registered installer. Needless to say it failed, but it was all trivia, things like the gas pipes not clipped at the required intervals in some places and some of the wiring was single cores zip tied to the car loom, apparently these have to be in a loom so I used convoluted conduit. Also no rubber pads between tank cradle and the tank and a cracked valve cover on the tank, plus a few other bits.
Did the work and took it back today for re-inspection and it passed
It cost £100 for the inspection + approx £30 for parts + £25 to be registered on the LPGUK database, so a total of £155 to get it registered, not too bad and I'll soon recoup that in fuel savings.
I was expecting a sharp intake of breath and a very pedantic inspection by the inspector, but actually he seemed very reasonable and was quite happy to give advice on how to comply with the regs.
Knowning the requirements now I wouldn't hesitate to do a DIY install in the future and get it inspected. Anyone who can maintain a Landrover would have no problems fitting a system.
Mike
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Yes the seats are back in. The photo was taken after fitting floor but before MOT.
I got the seat belt fixings from the same RRC I got the ali floor from so no problema there
Mike
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Hi,
I have a 1993 RangeRover Classic which has an LPG system fitted and is insured as a "classic" car. My current insurer has no problem with this and was happy to accept I had no installation certificate as it was fitted before I purchased the vehicle and it was fitted many years ago before certificates became a "requirement" by insurance companies.
My current insurer is now changing its definition of classic to cars over 30 years old and will not be renewing my insuarance when it expires. I have just accepted a quote with Adrian Flux who said that LPG was no problem as long as I signed a form stating LPG was fitted and that it was maintained. No mention of official bodies etc.
I now have the form and it seems that I am certifying it was installed by a member of one of three official bodies.
So where does this leave me, I feel that the chap on the phone mislead me with his description of what the LPG form is for.
Looking on UKLPG website it states that one of their members should check an existing installation and certify it and add it to the LPG register (assuming it's OK). However I remember a mate trying this a few years back an they had no interest in doing it. Even if they do I suspect it will be silly money and they will be very pedantic about it. Anyone had any experiance of this and maybe recommend somewhere in the northwest?
Thanks for any sugestions.
Mike
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Hi again,
Finally got the floor in last weekend.
Also fitted the ali top tailgate I've had in the garage for ages.
So took it for an MOT today and it passed, happy days I can drive a ladrover again!
Mike
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No I got the Z sections from YRM Metal Solutions along with the crossmember. Already got Tek screws and a roll of butyl putty.
Good tip about the clearance from the floor to the fuel unions, I will check that before fitting the floor.
Didn't get the floor fitted yesterday just the wings back on then I got rained off.
Thanks
Mike
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Thanks Bowie69. After much looking for somwhere it could go given the shape and length I pretty much come to that conclusion myself. Nice to have it confirmed though.
Thanks
Mike
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Done a bit more today, but as its been so long since I started I can't remember where this pipe goes!
Does anyone know? It looks like a breather for the fuel tenk but I can't see anywhere to attach it at the filler neck.
Thanks
Mike
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Well 3 months have have gone by I've finally got back on this. Haven't touched it all that time due to rubbish weather and being mad busy at work.
Lunchtime yesterday it looked like this.
New cross member from YRM in place. New crossmember seems well made an is a perfect fit unlike body parts I've from other manufacturers.
Close of play today, "Z" pieces and fabricated floor supports in place, Inner wings have also been patched where needed. Just some tidying up like re ty-wrapping cables to be done then its ready to fit the ali floor
Weather permitting tomorrow rear wings will go back on and the floor will go in.
edit - for some reason the uploader is insisting on putting the old crossmeber picture at the end of the post, not where I put it!
Mike
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Hi,
Have you looked at http://www.dieselbob.co.uk
Not used him myself but a couple of mates have an say he knows his stuff. Not sure if that was for a TD5 though.
Mike
Just got a Range Rover
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Hi,
After about 2 years away from Landrover ownership, had several RR classics in the past, i have returned for some more punishment
I got a cheap P38 from an acquaintance who had basically given up on it. Usual P38 story of various electrical gremlins, being charged large sums of money by various "Landrover specialists" who just seemed to bodge and make thing worse.
Spent the weekend looking at and have got most of the electrical problems sorted, just an ABS and SRS warning lights to sort now. Engine also needs a new cam.
Hopefully a couple of weeks and I will be able to take it for an MOT.
Pictures not very good as not much space on the drive.
Mike