[wiring diagram 200tdi starter switch]

1 used to be the glowplug feed brown/red thick wires, the white/orange is air con feed if fitted, it becomes live as stated above & I use mine to feed 12v to my rev counter.

So if I'm going to use a glowplug, connect it to #1?

[wiring diagram 200tdi starter switch]

I have a 4 pin ignition from a 1985 2.5 petrol that had A/C at one point, and am changing to a 5 pin for a diesel 200tdi conversion.

what I have:

1)Thick brown

2)big white

Brown/orange

Small white

3) white/red

4)Brown/Orange

I started to just swap numbers to match above, but thinking this is wrong.

Pics of the 2 switches side by side, and I hope the 1-5 are clear on the last one.

Thanks

[wiring diagram 200tdi starter switch]

Refer to my diagram in from this thread

No connection[at terminal 1, nearest steering wheel]

Brown [batt 12v feed to terminal 2 @ 12o'clock position]

White [to terminal 3]

White/Red [to terminal 4]

White/black [to terminal 5]

White/orange [not connected as it becomes live -- for accessory/air conditioning-- when ignition switch to position 2 glowplug/pre spring loaded start section of switch]

Note -- above info only for a ex-2.5TD engined vehicle that's been converted to a 200Tdi engine. But might be useful for 2.5n/a to 200Tdi if you fit the glowplug timer relay & associated wiring.

hope that helps,

So Nothing on #1?

And am confused by the white/orange not being connected?

[5 pin diesel ignition switch]

Does anyone have a wiring diagram of a newer style 5 pin diesel igntion swich? I'm switching my 1985 90 from the old style petrol 4 pin type to the new style 5 pin diesel type. I just want to be sure of the wiring.

Thanks

[Alloy Wheel fitting]

Thanks, how about if I use spacers?

Spacers enabled me to put boosts on my 90 with rear drums. 30mm

[Fitting a disco 200Tdi to a defender bellhousing]

I realize this is an old post, but if you don't sink those 4 bottom bolts, will any transmission work with the bolt sitting above the lip of the flywheel housing?

The pictures below are what I have, if thats any help.

Thanks

Thought this might be of interest:-

We all know that the disco 200Tdi doesnt match up very well to the defender gearbox. Here's what I did to make it fit better!

Counter bore the 4x bottom bolt holes where the bolts go through to the ladder frame to take M10 x 80 socket caps. I used a 16mm butterfly drill for this (thanks Tonk) to flat off the bottoms of the holes to take the bolts.

There are three existing blind holes in the bottom of the bellhousing that are not tapped. Drill and tap these M10 and fit studs to them. There is a stud at about 2 o'clock as you at the back of the engine that needs removing.

Finally remove and discard the 2x dowel pins that would locate the disco bellhousing to the flywheel housing.

Job done. Engine now bolts directly to the defender bellhousing, with no mods to the bellhousing, and no messing about swapping engine back plates over etc.

[Alloys]

I have a 1985 90, and have had the Castors on the truck which fit, but the center caps wouldn't go on. After taking them off I did notice they had made contact on the bolts where you were advised to remove the lock washers, that would of worked. I then got the boosts, which were no good, I had to get 30mm spacers to make them fit.

Please excuse my 1st attempt at actually helping with a problem! I was due, you guys have answered about 50 ?'s for me.

disc fronts, drum rear

[Aframe compatibility]

I know 95-? Disco Axles will work on a 90 to swap out to disc brakes, but while at the junkyard I noticed the Disco Aframe looks very simaliar. My question is will the Disco Aframe work on a 90 as well?

Thanks

[Door Cards]

Try LaSalle for 'early' trim sets... Click here

Thanks,

I just sent them an email.

[Door Cards]

I was wondering if anyone still sells the "old school" door cards for roll up windows, from an 1985 L/R 90? I need the ones that have the small round lock pulls at the back/top of the door to lock it from inside.

Thanks

Anyone?

New or Used

[Door Cards]

I was wondering if anyone still sells the "old school" door cards for roll up windows, from an 1985 L/R 90? I need the ones that have the small round lock pulls at the back/top of the door to lock it from inside.

Thanks

[axel swap]

A disco axle will be an easy swap. Depending on the age of the disco you will have to change the diff flange to get rid of the stupid rubber donut, but that is straightforward.

All standard 24 spline axles in discos are the same except for ABS sensors and CV joints. The former has no effect on strength and the latter only applies to the front axle.

Having said all that, I am assuming you have a 90 and not a 110?

If you have a 110 you have a much stronger Salisbury axle so ignore everything above! You can convert this axle to discs with standard LR parts.

If I did swap the front eventually, what cv issues would I run into?

[axel swap]

I have done many searches and still have some discovery axle swap questions? My rear drum axles need some work and instead of spending more money on them, I figured a discovery disc swap would make more sense. I have heard that 1995 disco and newer is better? I have 24 spline axles now, I have also heard that the disco 24 spline axles won't be as strong?

I'm in the states, but I assume the Disco rear ends are exactly the same as in the ROW

Thanks

[2.5 petrol Choke]

I have a 1985 90 with a 2.5 petrol. I just put a new weber carb on and it made a huge difference, but I still think I have a choke problem. I was wondering what controls the choke, vacuum, electric, or heat?

Thanks

[ignition issues]

Got it, it was the alternator, you guys are the best.

[Heater Swap LHD Heat A/C(NAS 110 style) to late model heater]

I wonder if I could somehow use my old 4 speed switch with the new heater?

yup, the slider does nothing electrical till it is near the bottom of the slide, then the first click (speed1, very slow) then speed 2, slow.

Like a film I saw where the donkey was a deluxe 3 speed slow, very slow and stop.

The mechanical slider opens the air flap for manual intake of air into heater, unitl the fan works at the bottom. (optimistic idea at best). Temperature control works by bypassing the heater matrix or not IIRC.

Pete

[Heater Swap LHD Heat A/C(NAS 110 style) to late model heater]

Thanks,

My a/c system is housed entirely under the hood,the heater core and a/c are in the same box. Does the newer style heater fan only have 2 speeds?

As you already know your old heater is actually an aircon fan unit with the associated switch (creamy plastic thingy) and relay to switch your a/c pump in. by swapping the "other heater unit" you will lose the a/c.

Right the wiring for the new one.

the purple/green is a live feed which is needed from the vehicle fuse box when you key is on at pos 1 or greater.

the other two are returns to go to the cab switch for speed 1 and speed 2. They are the other side of the fan and one has a resistor for your slow speed inline.

These are taken to ground by the cab lever switch which should have a black lead connected to its common or wiping contact.

It wont hurt to touch these two green wires to ground one at a time to see which is which.

You don't say if your aircon has packed in or you are stripping it out but, take care if disconnecting pipes with refrigerant in.

It would be worth taking pump off and removing drive belt to save a few bhp. not sure how cab unit is bolted/piped in but this may also give more leg room if removed.

Pete

[Heater Swap LHD Heat A/C(NAS 110 style) to late model heater]

I got my "new american style heater" and need a little help with the wiring, and what to do with the vacuum hoses?

My old system(110 style) had 4 speeds with a separate line and fuse for 4 speeds, There is a relay and a 3 connector wires on top of the heater box.

There is also the vacuum hoses that run from the heater core line to the top of the heater box? Do I need those anymore?

The new heater has 3 wires:1) green 2)green/yellow 3)purple/green

Thanks in advance

[ignition issues]

the raer plastic cover should be marked with

B+

D+

WL or IND

the B+ is the starter soleniod/battery connections so both thick brown wires should go to it

the WL or IND is the dash 'no charge' aka ignition light so the brown/yellow should be connected to it.

in one of my auto electric books, it says if the alternator is capable of more the 35amp output then 2 llarge diametr cables are used to take the output to the soleniod/battery.

Great Thanks!

I only have one large cable, I assume because I have less than 35 amps.

There is another connector just above in the pic that seems to link to the WL connection, i assume its for a tach?

Thanks for taking the time!

[ignition issues]

Here the pics of the old alt,

There are 4 spade connectors, two large and two that seem to be normal size.

After looking closer at it after taking it off, they all seem to be interconnected?

[ignition issues]

the thick brown is the main feed from/to alternator/battery, it needs to be connected, if there is a thick brown/red trace, that's the glow plug power feed from the ign switch to the glow plugs.

There seem to be 2 separete sets of spade connections, 3 where the main large brown wire attaches(big spade), and one totally seperate near the center line of the altenator.

I'm wondering where the Brown/yellow(warning light) wire should go? Which set of spades, the one near the main, or the one by the center of the alt, the seperate one?

Also, any ideas on the Brown wire which has not been connected since I've owned the truck?

[ignition issues]

Its in the mail to me now!

excites?

Any idea what the solid brown one does? its been disconected since i got the truck a year ago.

The brown/yellow wire excites the alternator. you should not run without it. neither should you run the alternator without the main output connected.

You have a faulty alternator. you should get it fixed, or replace it.

[ignition issues]

Thanks Yet again Western.

So just to confirm, when I remove the large brown wire off of the alt, or the small brown/yellow wire off,the light goes out.

What does the brown/yellow wire do?

and can i run the motor without it?

And there is a brown wire that comes out of the same place, that has never been connected to anything, wondering what that does?

your alternator has a toasted diode in the rectifier pack, it needs a replacement rectifier/diode pack.

[ignition issues]

When i turn off the ignition and remove the key, the heater motor and stereo stay on. The battery light on the dash also glows red when the key is removed?

[Ignition Sitch]

I have a 1985 2.5 Petrol and need a new igntion switch part #551508. I was wondering if since I am going to swap to a 200tdi in the next few months could I buy the Diesel switch #prc 2734 and use it temporily on the petrol engine?

Got a new battery and a new ignition switch and I still have the same problem. Accessories stay on when key is turned off, and the red battery light on the dash stays on.

Any ideas?

Thanks