billybob
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Posts posted by billybob
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Thanks! Great pictures - they do tell a million words...
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Hi All,
I have the LR 'pilar' jack that is basically useless with the NAS rear bumper. I have a LR bottle jack I'll be using instead, but I don't know where to mount it. Can someone share a pic of where it is supposed to be mounted and what that looks like?
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As always, thank you!
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Wow! Tops! Thanks!
Where does one get their hands on such a handy PDF?
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Hi All,
I'm looking for the part number for the third fastener for the 110's front door panels. The other two which have already been talked about here are:
MXC1800 - "Fir-tree" fastener.
MWC3136 - "Snap-sack" fastener that the fir-tree fastener snaps into.
The one I'm looking for is the plastic rivet that has a plastic pin that is pushed into the center, expanding the prongs in the process.
It looks like the one attached.
Anyone know the part number?
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There's a company that makes a bunch of the aluminum clamps you're looking for (US): http://fourtreks.com/roll_bar.html
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Seems a bit over the top...Here's a clean effective method we use on NAS Defenders:
http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t...oll+cage+clamps
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I forgot to say thanks to all that helped! Thank you!
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Just to close the loop on this. I fitted a new 90 degree elbow hose and replaced the standard clamps with the t-bolt band type. Back in business!
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There's a guy in the US that converted a 90 to a 100 It has a 300Tdi and he's running it on a biodiesel/veggie oil system.
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Why not just buy a new filter and not be so heavy handed with it next time, it's not like they're expensive?
Good points...I plan on doing that. I actually replaced the filter with a new one, but wanted to avoid the mistake in the future...It probably won't happen again.
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So I was trying to drain any sediment/water from the fuel filter in the engine bay and I was an idiot and turned the plastic drain plug in the wrong direction...snapped the threaded plastic part off. I used a broken bolt/nut remover. I am sure glad I had that tool handy!
On to the question: Does someone like X-Eng make a nice billet/CNC-machined version so the not-so bright don't break it off in the filter?
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I bought one a few years ago for my 90 from these guys
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Here's a nice rebuild/restore of a NAS 110 with the full internal/external rollcage from Safety Devices:
I don't know the details on how fast the 110 was going and if it rolled over multiple times or what...ECR
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If you're switching to biodiesel or thinking of running it there are a few things to think about:
1. Biodiesel comes in a few concentrations B100 being 100% biodiesel; B20 is 20% biodiesel - you get the idea. The higher concentrations like B50 and up - have 'cleansing' properties...it will clean out all the deposits in your fuel system (tank, fuel lines, filter, sedimenter, etc.). So carry a couple extra filters around for just-in-case moment where your filters get clogged with petro-diesel deposits.
2. In addition to the cleansing properties, biodiesel in higer concentrations will eat away natural rubber components in your fuel system. It doesn't happen quickly, but after a few months you can feel the natural rubber fuel lines getting soft. The next stage is that they start getting weepy. It is best to replace any natural rubber fuel components with a biodiesel compatible fluoroelastomer (Viton is supposed to be the best - also the most expensive).
I havn't run any higher concentrations of biodiesel in my rig yet I keep it between B5 and B20. I think it would be pretty easy to replace the fuel supply lines and return/spill lines. Not to hijack the thread, but the part I'm not sure about is the internals of the Bosch Injection Pump. Are there any natural rubber components in that? Seals, o-rings? What about the diesel injectors?
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Thanks everyone. I'm off to get a new hose and some better clamps!
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Looks to me as though that elbow hose is to short, IIRC it should cover the whole of the larger diameter on the pipe & the hose clamp should be tightened around the smaller diameter to prevent the hose from removing itself, reckon a new hose would cure it.
& Welcome to LR4x4.com, please read the pinned info at the top of this forums thread list.
That's what I was thinking too. And the one that's there is genuine LR!
I'm out of luck trying to source the proper part locally. I'll have to order online. Is driving with some turbo loss damaging to the engine?
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Hi All,
I am new to this forum, and I see there are a lot of knowledgeable people here! I was hoping for some help here. For my issue, I tried looking at the FAQs, the technical archive, and manually searching. I have not been able to find my issue. Here goes:
I have a Defender 110 CSW with a 300Tdi. For quite some time now on the motorway (60/65mph) - whenever I come to a hill or slight incline I would have to down shift into 4th gear and step on the pedal HARD. I slow down considerably, and I would be shooting out black smoke from the tail pipe. Also during this time, I could hear a hissing/wooshing sound from under the hood (turbo). After putting up with this for a few months, I noticed under the hood that the union where the 90deg hose from the turbo to the pipe (which goes to the bottom of the factory intercooler) had a small 'leak'. It was misting oil which could be seen on the hood and the surrounding area. See the attached picture. You can see I made a clean spot.
So I did my research and black smoke on a Tdi seems to mean that it's getting too much fuel, the the amount of air. Thinking there was an air leak going on, I then took off the clamp and jiggled the pipe closer to the hose so the hose could cover the pipe more. I made sure that the bottom straigh hose to the intercooler didn't come off. I then tightened the clamp on the hose to pipe. I took the 110 for a test drive. WOW!! What a change! No more down shifting! No more hissing/wooshing sound from under the hood. I could actually feel the turbo kick in, and the 110 would power up the inclines without downshifting. It was amazing!
Now the problem: just yesterday, I tried to go on the motorway and 3 (yes, three!) times, the hose would pop off the pipe at the same union where I tightened it. I tightened that clamp down really hard (not to crush or tear the hose of course, but to make sure it wouldn't come off. Each time it cam off I'd put it back on and tighten it down, but it would com off again!
What's going on here? Is the turbo creating too much air for the intake to consume? Do I need to replace the factory hoses with some AlliSport/Twisted Performance/Allard silicone hoses? Your expertise is greatly appreciated here!
Sorry to be the new guy with the huge post!
Thanks,
BillyBob!
Where can I get a headlight adjuster switch?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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Hi all,
Looking for the headlight adjuster switch. Anyone know where I can source one?
I appreciate it!