Landy 90 Hybrid

That would be great cheers. Jonathan

Does no-one have a gassed 90 truck cab??

I get around 15mpg with mine, that was taking it quite gently and an RTV trial. In the grand scheme of things I guess not too bad considering she is a 3.5 V8. If caning it, she is down to single figures Jonathan

anyone??

Hi all, just a quickie. I want to gas my hybrid, but am not sure what size gas tank will fit across the rear tub inbetween the arch boxes. What size have you got fitted to yours of does anyone know the dimensions so I could work it out? Kind regards Jonathan

Cheers for the fast reply, I will give that a go over the weekend or if I can grab some time one night this week. I cant see it being due to lack of use, she has been used for RTV once a month for I would say the last 2 yrs at least. I guess some RRC's will have hardly ever had the lever shifted at all. Kind regards Jonathan

Hi all, not sure where to post this but seeing as she is mostly RRC running gear I thought here was best. She is an auto, not sure which box on a 3.5V8, so I guess its the original with the engine. The transfer box lever is very stiff to move front/back. Moves side to side to select diff lock ok, and llight comes on on the dash fine, and is working. However to select Hi-Lo I have to jiggle between D, N, R a few times to get it to move. Am I doing something wrong, is there a set procedure or is there something wrong with the transfer box? I few people I have spoke to say it is normal to be a little stiff but surely not this much. Kind regards Jonathan

No bother Mo, glad you liked them. When out there it felt like we were the only people on earth, felt great. Didnt see another sole on the lanes. Was great watching the birds (sorry dont know what they were) swooping and playing around. Will keep posting when we drive some more. Kind regards Jonathan

Hi mate, would love to meet up when your in the area as I am in Durham, not too far north, but depends on how things go at my end. SWMBO is due 6th May!!! Will keep you informed. Kind regards Jonathan

Hi all. me and my folks went into Weardale today for a bit of a run out after sorting out some running probs i have had ove the past couple of months. Nothing difficult, just took a road from Weardale, over the moors and dropped down into Teesdale. Was nice to have a run out. Here are some pics. Kind regards Jonathan

That would be great cheers Chris Jonathan

Here is a pic of what was my Series 2 but sadly no-longer mine, I sold it not long after I had done a 3 year, 5K resto on her Now in good hands in Cambridge though. Is in April LRM too, so at least I have my 5 mins of fame

Hi Chris, cheers for the reply, some ideas about over Alston way would be great cheers. Shame (well very luckly for you just coz I would love to live over your neck of the woods) your over in Cumbria, could always meet in the middle. I am a member of a local club and have done some RTV's (not as many as I would have liked though) and they have a greenlane section, will get in touch with them Jonathan

Hi all, hopefully the best is running well now so I fancy doing a bit of laning in or around the North East, Northumberland areas. Are there many members on here that are in this area, do you know of any decent lanes and who would fancy meeting up for a wander soon? Kind regards Jonathan

Well tonight I wired the pump direct and it still did it, so took out the pump, and had a look about. The only thing that I could see was that the neg wire crimp connector was loose, not completely but not the tightest either, tightened up, checked elsewhere, couldnt see anything obvious, refitted and replumbed, gave her a whirl, problem sorted. Went for a spin, and no probs All I need to do now is fit my newly acquired vac advance unit, set timing properly and find some hills and mud! Kind regard Jonathan

The pump is an in-tank one, that buzz's as its an EFI, sorry I should have mentioned this before, not an SU type that click fast to prime the carb then slow down considerably when running/ticking over. As far as the noise or no-noise as in pump failing it will do it when sitting on the drive on tickover, no idea when she is being driven as its too noisy to tell, but my guess is that it will still be doing it and thus causing the running probs. I will check relay's etc and try and run the pump direct and see if it does it then. Jonathan

Hi all, following on from my running problems on my hybrid, I have noticed that I can hear my fuel pump buzzing in and out rather frequently and erratically, I take it it shouldnt be doing this, and should run constantly. Anyone got any ideas as to why? I will have a look at some point over the following few days but just thought I would pick your brains. Kind regards Jonathan

yeah the amp is on the RHS of the dizzy, about the 3-4 oclock position IIRC. I have a spare dizzy from a 3.9, with a 3 prong connector. Do you mean that I can get a lead that converts the 2 pin to a 3, and then use the later ignition amp? Any info would be great, where did you get the part number for? Jonathan

Hi all, after plenty of fault finding and thanks to FF, I think it may be the ignition amp that is playing up. I have had a search around on that giant skip that is ebay and cannot find an amp available seperatly, only with a dizzy attached. My amp has two pins like this |-, are there various types of dizzy or just the one that have that type of connection? If so what do I need? I would wait till im home but just thought I would have a look whilst at work. Kind regards Jonathan

Well I tried another AFM today and still had the problems, I was convinced that was the problem. Driving me mental now!!, I am going to miss tomorrows RTV She has had a new set of plugs, NGK's this week along with new leads, bosch ones. I will have to check timing and stuff next I guess, dizzy etc. Oh well, I am sure you guys will be kept posted. I think it will be something datf, and hopefully not too expensive! Jonathan

I have a topic in the Defender section, but thought I would put one in here too as most of my Hybrid is RRC. She has a 3.5 EFi, on petrol in, and I have been having some running probs of late. Running lumpy, spluttering when driving, especially when putting foot down. Fine on idle and reving up at stand still. Have done a few checks from the diagnostic manual, downloaded from here, and the results are as follows: Lucas 2AM AFM Test 6 - Voltage across resistor wire in AFM potentiometer - should be 1.55v - actual 1.55v Test 7 - Voltage through AFM potentiometer & the wiring to ECU Step 1 - should be 4.3v +- 0.2v - actual 4.34v Step 2 - should be 3.7v +- 0.1v - actual 3.72v step 3 - should decrease to 1.6v -+ 0.1v - actual 1.66v Test 8 - Ohms - Check internal resistance of AFM and wiring to ECU .............actual readings at.....ECU ...AFM Plug.... AFM socket Pins 6 & 8 - should be 360K - 396K....395K..........395K Pins 6 & 9 - should be 560K - 616K....614K..........614K Pins 8 & 9 - should be 200K - 220K....219K..........219K Test 9 - Voltage at throttle pot Step 1 - should be 4.3v - actual - 4.3v Step 2 - should be 0.325 - actual 0.30v (within tolerance) Step 3 - should be 4.5v MAX - actual 3.78v Test 10 - Resistance of air temp sensor in AFM I didnt have a temp probe so couldnt measure the temp, but measured the resistance and was within the scales provided Given that the voltages are mostly within tolerance, but the internal resistance of the AFM was quite a way out, how would this effect running, does it look like this could be causing me problems? Thanks in advance for your help Jonathan

Evening all, just to keep you informed, and to see if anyone can shed some light. I have performed some of the tests in the fault diagnosis manual, and the results are as follows: Lucas 2AM AFM Test 6 - Voltage across resistor wire in AFM potentiometer - should be 1.55v - actual 1.55v Test 7 - Voltage through AFM potentiometer & the wiring to ECU Step 1 - should be 4.3v +- 0.2v - actual 4.34v Step 2 - should be 3.7v +- 0.1v - actual 3.72v step 3 - should decrease to 1.6v -+ 0.1v - actual 1.66v Test 8 - Ohms - Check internal resistance of AFM and wiring to ECU .............actual readings at.....ECU ...AFM Plug.... AFM socket Pins 6 & 8 - should be 360K - 396K....395K..........395K Pins 6 & 9 - should be 560K - 616K....614K..........614K Pins 8 & 9 - should be 200K - 220K....219K..........219K Test 9 - Voltage at throttle pot Step 1 - should be 4.3v - actual - 4.3v Step 2 - should be 0.325 - actual 0.30v (within tolerance) Step 3 - should be 4.5v MAX - actual 3.78v Test 10 - Resistance of air temp sensor in AFM I didnt have a temp probe so couldnt measure the temp, but measured the resistance and was within the scales provided Given that the voltages are mostly within tolerance, but the internal resistance of the AFM was quite a way out, how would this effect running, does it look like this could be causing me problems? Thanks in advance for your help Jonathan

Cheers for that, I wil fire them in tonight then. Kind regards Jonathan

Afternoon all, I have just bought some new plugs for the beast, NGK BP6ES's but I have just read on the technical archive section (the topic with the PDF 3.5 V8 Flapper system Diagnostic Manuals) that it says NGK BP6RES? Which should they be? I take it the R means resistor type? Kind regards Jonathan

looking at the pics its secured at the sides by the tie points. I have tree sllders down there so I dont have any method of tying it. I will have a think and let you know mate Cheers Jonathan