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GBMUD last won the day on January 29

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  1. I would argue that the viscous fan unit should have been warm - normal running temperature - for the test as they do become less viscous when warm and only 'lock-up' when hot and extra cooling is needed. Chris
  2. I know people are always asking, and I have aired my opinions often enough. Watch this video for some actual measured figures. Keep in mind though, their graphs do not start until 3000rpm and I pretty much never exceed 3000rpm in my diesel Defender! Chris
  3. The EGR valve sticking can also cause problems, I am lead to believe. Chris
  4. Interesting comparisons to the D5, isn't the Velar on the smaller D-Sport platform? Transverse engine, no low range gears etc.? Actually quite a different vehicle size/type one assumes. I have yet to see a Velar in the flesh - or a D5 outdoors and 'in context'. Chris
  5. Yes* Probably more like 0730-0800 Chris
  6. Here in most of the UK, and in most of Spain, snow is such a rarity that we have little or no experience of driving in it and choose not to (OK, spend so little) have the machinery to deal with it on standby 364 days a year. When snow comes we are thrown into chaos not because we are idiots (though many drivers appear to be), but because it is not normal weather for us and we do not have the experience or tools to deal with it. Chris
  7. I enjoyed that, well made, well presented and informative. Well done! Chris
  8. On the subject of electronics, I was rather assuming that MS would work on a modern (Y2000 on) petrol engine. Am I right in making this assumption, nothing too complicated? Can MS do VVT, forced induction and so on? Chris
  9. Sounds like a useable range of torques... I wonder what they do at 1000rpm? Chris
  10. I did see that, and even the more serious idea lurking behind. The problem for my application is very much as outlined by Snagger, that one needs to recharge too often for it to be viable for all my needs. I want to be able to go to the Pyrenees, drive all day and then wild camp, or do the same in Morocco or the Alps, or other places where there is not the infrastructure to recharge every night - or three to four times in one day driving down there! I should consider an electric car as well as the Defender. ...or perhaps sell the Defender, the RR and MX5 and buy a RRS SVX - just for the sound! Chris
  11. Sorry if I gave the impression that I have a plan to actually do this, it is, as Mark suggests, largely hypothetical for now. If at some future point the government decide that they are going to tax diesel vehicles off the road though, I want to know that I have an option to keep my Defender. Rover V8s are all well and good, they are easy to convert but are rather old fashioned and well known drinkers. I am keen to explore further afield in my theoretical search for a viable alternative - perhaps to find something that offers better potential fuel economy than the RV8. I think that the cost, bulk and weight of batteries for an electric conversion are going to be my main objections. sorry Steve. Lexus/Toyota V8s seem very attractive - I have been considering building a 'Tokyo TVR' but stuffing one into an MX5... Do BMWs use ZF autos behind 6 pot petrols? What about Mercedes? That would make a very easy conversion and get two birds with one stone! I do so little tough off-roading that 300HP is unlikely to be a major problem other than potential accelerated wear on the drive train. I wonder if one could 'de-cam' such an engine to have good torque off idle for towing? Being able to tow would be nice. If such a conversion became popular it might be worth someone making a new cam/inlet to improve low down torque. I like the idea of the VR6 engines. Previous research for a different project suggested that they do not take well to conversion in longitudinal applications though - this may be over-comable... The 1.8T would surely not provide enough torque for towing without lots of revving to get the turbo spinning? One thing that might accelerate the need (or desire) for a petrol conversion is actually local regulations. Here in the Horsham district there are concerns about air quality, as I suspect is the case elsewhere. It seems ironic that the local authority worry about air quality in town, yet they seem to set traffic lights to frustrate the speedy and efficient passage of cars through town, instead making them wait at multiple sets of traffic lights and then accelerate and brake for the next set. Anyway, whatever the reason, there is already an 'experimental LEZ' in place in Storrington, a large-ish village at the foot of the south downs. You can bet your life that once this becomes permanent and mandatory it will spread to Horsham where I live. This may have the effect of meaning that I can no longer drive my Defender into town - which I find to be a highly undesirable outcome. Thanks for the contributions to my thought tombola, Chris
  12. I currently have a Td5 Defender and I think it is rather good. Many voices in government however seem to think I am killing people with my choice(?) of a diesel engine. Actually, when my car was built there was ONLY a diesel option as the powers that be made sure petrol was not a viable option and encouraged the uptake of diesels. Now there is talk of scrappage schemes, tighter and more numerous LEZs end so on to persuade us back in to petrol (or electric, hydrogen, humus etc.) powered vehicles... So, if I chose to replace the Td5 with a petrol engine, what might I choose and why? A Rover V8 may seem the obvious choice, but what about something else? BMW 2.8(?) petrol engines were fitted in some South Africa models for a time. Where else might I find a petrol engine, never fitted as OE, that might be a suitable replacement? Merc 6 cylinder? Japanese? It would be nice to find something with the flexibility for towing rather than just going for mega power. Extra marks will be added if there is an existing conversion for either the R380 or for a ZF4 auto. Chris
  13. Hitch CE marking does not apply to commercials, or it didn't. Is that still the case? Chris
  14. A 'winter' tyre is usually softer rubber and has 'siping' - very thin grooves going across, or diagonally, across the tread - which help grip on packed snow and ice. A winter tyre is usually defined as one which will work in winter road conditions, most commonly in Europe being packed snow and/or ice. A mud tyre will probably work better on virgin snow - but as we know, after the first time it is never virgin again. Most AT tyres seem to carry the snowflake symbol and/or the 'M+S' logo. Chris