viorelluta
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Posts posted by viorelluta
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I do own a FL2 and no flashing appears when cornering, regardless the situation.
EBA means actually "emergency braking assist" and it seems to brake harder when the car speed is high, to help shortening the braking distance.
Please read this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emergency_Brake_Assist
From what I read about EBA, when the EBA light flashes it's either a malfunction (somewhere in the braking system) or you may driving too fast and the car suggests that EBA may become active. But it's just based on what I read, again, my car doesn't do this.
viorel
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landrover came up trumps it turned out to be the clutch, had a new flywheel new clutch and crankshaft oil seal, all now seems to be fine a little worrying though when its only done 19,500 miles
I see. You would not expect to have such problems so soon. Have you been towing, or off-roading? Here in Bucharest a major reason for replacing the clutch before 50k km is the traffic - too many traffic jams, which lead to premature wear.
was it covered by warranty?
Good luck
Viorel
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Sorry about the punctuation,I had a lot to say, No the vibration occurs at the same time as the clutch slip,the car has only done 19,000 miles.
Hi,
have you found the cause?
i am interested as I also have a fl2...
maybe something happened with the haldex coupling? (hopefully not...)
thanks
viorel
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The last freebie 1 was 56 model. I have just changed to a freebie 2 although I love my new one, the 56 TD4 was in my opinion a better car.
Once u have freebie you don't want anything else
Regards
Freelander Geordie
Hello,
I have also owned a FL1 for 3 years and I have a FL2 since one year and a half. FL1 was OK and I loved it (well, in my case the 1.8 petrol gave me headaches), but I could not say that FL2 isn't (far) better than FL1.
May I ask you what part of the FL1 is better?? 'cause I'm really surprised to hear this.
viorel
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I am not a mechanical engineer, but I guess at 200k km the compression may be a problem for diesels.
Have you checked it?
What oil do you use?
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If I were you, I would be rather worry about the second original key (the one missing)... where is it, and who could use it to open your car?
You should visit a dealer, who should be able to delete that one from your car's memory.
The key previously used for some other car should normally work if programmed to your car, as it is basically a RFID chip which, even if stores some info regarding the history (such as "it was/was not programmed"), can also be re-programmed.
Both operations need special tools, available at the authorised dealers (hopefully :-) )
Viorel
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... I forgot to ask you what is the outside temperature when the engine don't start, a certain delay is normal.
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hi,
What is the mileage of your engine?
I think there are many possible reasons, please check this page:
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=80853
I guess you need a proper diagnosis before replacing anything else.
Please let us know what was the problem, once successfully solved.
good luck
viorel
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Indeed, modern technology can keep you in the rain sometimes...
I found the answer on the net: I can either get a new key, or open the fob using a sharp knife
then replace the battery, which is a rechargeable coin-shape Panasonic battery. (Of course, this is possible only if you got the right tool, as the battery is soldered on the PCB).Meanwhile I will try to keep in mind to use the car at least once a week, and to rotate the keys...
V.
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Hi all,
I knew that the FL2 keys (keyfobs) are recharged when driving, however I was unpleasantly surprised when, after a 3 weeks in garage, I could not open the car.
I have tried with the 2nd key, but of course this dind't work either, actually was staying in a closet for more than 6 months, so this was quite normal (?!).
After talking to the dealer, I managed to open the car with the mechanical key.
I think other owners should be aware that you must rotate the key clockwise (it may be written in the manual, but if the manual is not t hand, or it is in the car...) AND you need to rotate it pretty hard (I thought that the key would break, but it didn't).
Once the car is opened, the alarm starts but it stops once you insert the keyfob in its place.
As you may imagine, the procedure takes time - I wonder what happens if you stand in the rain, or if you have an emergency?!
The real problem is that you never know:
- if the battery needs charging
- for how long you need to charge it.
It seems there is no alternative way to charge it, nor to replace the battery!
If some of you guys know otherwise, please let me know!
Thank you
Viorel
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Hello,
As a principle, any engine that wouldn't start is a malfunction :-).
My FL2 has seen minus 25 last winter and minus 12 this winter; indeed there is some delay when starting, but limited to a few seconds.
Once I had to press again the start.
I have surfed a little and found that diesels not starting when cold usually indicate a problem with the glow plugs - one, or more of them is/are burned (I understand they're similar to incandescent bulbs...), or their power circuit has some problems.
So a first step would be to check the glow plugs and replace them if necessary.
If you still use the original battery you may need to replace them (it is almost 4 years old, as I understand). But first check the plugs.
I won't buy any alternative starting procedures than the normal ones!
Viorel
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Thanks Mark,
My Engine is a 2.5 V6 PETROL
all suggestions are valid for V6 also
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I have surfed a little bit, I found that:
- diesels burn more than petrol engines (people say that because of compression, turbo, etc - no specialists around, I think)
- VW "pumpe-duse" (TDI) engines burn more oil than other diesels (such as common-rails)
- for a perfectly functional diesel engine, oil consumption up to 1 liter/1000km is considered "normal"
- you can achieve better figures if you limit the speed (actually, the revs - rpm value) - e.g. 3000rpm would be better than 4000rpm
viorel
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Hello,
My FL2 is only 1yo and about 16k km (10k miles).
I think you had bad luck with the paint (btw, my old FL1 had 6 years when I sold it and the paint was perfect).
Regarding the oil: most of the engines "drink" oil, especially VW (German) ones - I can give you a number of particular examples.
I am pretty sure that VW considers a "normal consupmtion" a quantity of 0,6 liters of oil per 1,000km (I can't convert it in mpg :-) ).
and this IS official.
Never heard of a similar figure from LR, though.
But taking into consideration that the 2.2TD4 is a PSA engine, I would not worry - they're really good in Diesel engines.
good luck
Viorel
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For your info: I have ordered side steps for the Freelander 2 from John Craddock.
They were a poor quality copy of the originals; soo bad, than one of the brackets was already loose when opening the package.
The installing manual was also a poor quality copy of the LR manual.
I will never install them on the car... I'm afraid they can fall when driving 140km/h or so...
My advice: if you can't see the products first and they involve safety, NEVER buy them via internet.
viorel
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Google for fl2 accessories, search for the longitudinal roof rails; they come as an accessory; download the installation manual, you will find there how to install them - that manual should show you how to open the plastic lids, etc.
viorel
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you're welcome!
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A similar symptom on a VW Passat led to the following cause: the "valves block" needs to be replaced (the hydraulic actuators). The cost is aronud 2,000 eur.
I like auto gearboxes, but when they break, they cost you a lot...
viorel
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I'm not an expert, but it seems that a sensor (perhaps a temperature sensor?) is damaged. I think you should go to a LR garage.
viorel
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Sorry people, but you're going to have to take me (No7) off the list!!
Freelander number 2 was part exchanged last week for a Skoda Yeti SE 4x4. I would have liked a FL2 but just couldn't justify a bill of nearly £26k.
Hello Graham,
are you still visiting this forum?
Have you formed your opinion about the Yeti... yet?
I have driven last winter a brand new rented Yeti in Austria, for about 1,000km in a week. It is a very nice car, but it has nothing in common with Freelander 2 (well, with FL1 neither). But I guess the price tag is also different.
What do you think?
Viorel
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I had tinted films (minimum legal transparency, don't remember %) on the windows of my old FL1 for about 3 years. They are designed to resist to heated windows. They will NOT scratch if mounted properly. If you choose good quality film (e.g. 3M or Llumar) AND you choose a specialized company (it is NOT a DYI job!), the car will definitely look better.
Not to mention extra privacy or, more important, sun shield effect - essential when carrying children.
Of course, you must be ready to pay about 4-500 Eur incl. installation cost - if it's cheaper, it will not look good...
Viorel
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hi all..
well we have just traded the 2005 td4 freelander in and bought a 2007 freelander 2. wow what a difference. we only picked it up yesterday and we are already loving it.
anyway the question i have for the people in the know is how do you get the boot door to open on the button on the door handle rather than only working on the key fob. its a little annoying having to take the key out to open the boot.
I had the same feeling when "upgrading" from FL1 to FL2 :-)
To open the boot door from the button, you have to unlock it first (remember that FL2, similar to FL1, has two "steps" when opening the doors: first the driver's door, then the rest of the doors). It's simple: press the UNLOCK button on the dash board, then you can open the boot door as you want, without removing the keyfob from its place.
regards
viorel
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Well I found out that another Freelander / manual / diesel also has the Check Engine light, so the driver's manual is a bit confusing there.
But the other car didn't make the 'tock' noise as the warning lights went out.
Must be something about mine. I'll pop into the dealer sometime, though it's probably nothing of any significance.
Still interested if anyone else has the same sound.
Mine (FL2/diesel/manual)does not make this "tock" sound.
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Hello,
I have the FL2 since the end of last year and only 7,500km on the clock, so it's too early to say much about the reliability.
Hovever, the car is already on the market since about 4 years and still there are no bad reviews, but only very good ones.
Personally, after the FL1 1.8 experience, I was only concerned about the engine, as I knew that everything else can't be bad; but the 2.2TD4 is the engine you will find in Outlander and the two PSA models. I would say the engine is one of the best parts of the FL2.
I think that especially now, when you can buy a FL2 at a good price, it's worth to have one.
But of course, a drive test will help you more.
Viorel
then replace the battery, which is a rechargeable coin-shape Panasonic battery. (Of course, this is possible only if you got the right tool, as the battery is soldered on the PCB).
Throttle body failure FL2
in Freelander Forum
Posted
My FL2 does not have the eco function, I wonder if this part is identical? i
I drive a company VW Passat with start/stop function. First thing I do, after turning the engine on, is to turn this function off - I find it annoying and I don't think it really save fuel.
Not to mention how fun it is when you have 35 degrees outside and it cuts the a/c to half...