Serious Series
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Posts posted by Serious Series
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On a 2.5 diesel the excess fuel is used to lubricate the injection pump I would assume the 2.25 is the same.Injection pumps are very expensive so best find away to get it back to the tank.
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Depends on the manufacture of the springs I believe Britpart had a bad batch of springs with that problem ie the wrap around section was too high.
If bushes have failed they can be moved in the mounting.
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Are these images any good
Doug
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Did you take the high low ratio selector stick off the transfer box whilst removing it?
If you did have you fitted it with the two bolt bracket at the engine side of its mounting or the transfer case side?
it should be at the engine side.
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Have you chamfered the leading edges of the brake shoes.
Bottom spring goes from shoe to shoe , top spring only goes on snailcam shoe and post on backplate.
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Had decided to renew my bottom rad hose as it was nipped at the bend.
Proceeded to buy standard hose as it looked the same but my engine has 7 bolt water pump and hose connection for bottom hose on pump is 43mm . Standard hose 36mm both ends.
Does anyone know the correct part number for hose to fit 7 bolt pump?
Also should hose connection of seven bolt pump be 42mm diameter.
Doug
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I hope that whiskey was the right Octane content or you might have contaminated that part.
Dear Sirs, Myladies,
I just want to share the feeling I enjoyed when taking off the manifold on my ex-military 1974 Series 3 today:
Hurrah! - and a toast to the unknown mechanic who fitted the manifold to this Land Rover-engine sometime late 1973 or early 1974.
11 out of 11 bolts came out, nice and easy, without violence or sore knuckles.
I take my hat off to people who take pride in doing their job just right, and who are competent & confident enough to refrain from tightening to hard, just to be sure.
For the the next bloke, the d.i.y. mechanic who has to unscrew the manifold 38 years later, this just makes one's day, it's a d.i.y-feast with no hazzle and no sore knuckles. This is practical charity for you, and it contributes to peace and harmony in the Universe!
I hope that he (or she) who fitted this manifold is presently sitting in a pub in Warwickshire, feeling thorougly pleased with himself (herself), or in an old age home, or in that special department that St. Peter has reserved for particularly good people.
I send him (or her) my respect and admiration, and propose a toast, with my Scotch in LR part # 236891, the best glass for a proper Land Rover dram.
Yours faithfully,
Terje K.
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Tuko
Well spotted I will turn it same way and compare again.
Doug
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Sorry to drag up this old thread but have just done the same mod on my SWB front prop.
Attached some pics with angles added
The gains are not as much as I hoped but it might be sufficient to stop my prop bursting the seal out of sliding joint when over extended.
9 degrees gained when Series prop yoke at full extension into the RR flange
1.5 degrees gained RR yoke at full extension into series prop.
Length gain 3/8"
Some thing else I have come across which puzzles me the prop I have converted is off my motor and apart from keep bursting through the seal on sliding joint has not had any other issues when I was carrying it into the garage after removal the sliding portion dropped out as the seal ring was outside of screw cup .
This meant I had to derust it and find the alignment marks for re assembly , much to my suprise the alignment marks do not put the two yokes in line they are about 15 degrees out.
As this was not some thing I had come across did a search of several forums and found one post where it was advised that rear prop yokes would be in line but front would be as much as 30 deg offline.
Has anyone any knowledge why this would be.
My immediate thought was that my two prop halfs where not an original pair!
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Fitted the Disco engine mounts from Glencoyne today has made a lot of difference the Petrol Series one's I had on where very stiff by comparison.
Nearside one needed trimming to fit.
Offside one needed edge trimming to lie flat on bbase bracket I took 3/8" off but a 1/4" would have done it.
Just got to get my injector pipes renewed now, and fit my Range rover series Hybrid front propshaft which I also managed to assemble today needs a coat of paint and then fitting on {I had issue with prop to short due to parabolics this ends up 1/2" longer and wider angled Some one on this forum's idea not mine}
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Good point made I have two injector pipes which are weeping through corrosion will get them renewed to see if engine vibrations reduce.
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Snagger I have just bought some mountings from Glencoyne which he was advertising on ebay as especially suited for 200tdi conversion these are much softer rubber than the OEM ones I had purchased to replace the petrol ones fitted hopefully will get them on in a couple weeks time .
My engine is just a 15J but since rebuild [Marsland Chassis]vibration is way worse than before rebuild.
Do you have measurements of where engine mount should be might be worth me checking mine , not that I noticed any problem with mountings.
Doug
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That bar looks like it could do the back of your head in when in an accident , anyone got one fitted?
Typically in an accident you are thrown forward but on impact you then go back wards something to do with your muscles fighting the forward motion .
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Looks like it has had a lot of time effort and money spent on it , should be good curious what you ended up paying for it?
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Spotted this on ebay if any use to you
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Blanchards have them but high price.
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This is a good site for welding advice Good Site for Welding Advice
RT Barton That welding link is brilliant I paid for CD which was nowhere near as good as whats on there.
Thanks for brilliant post.
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Look towards the Injection pump timing would be my guess
As your vehicle has not been used for a long time
1) is it old fuel?[possibly contaminated with water]
2) have you checked/drained water from fuel filter ?
3) have you bled the fuel pump?
4) if all these ok try adjusting timing of pump , mark where it is at present then rotate slightly each way to see if it improves.
Previous post suggested cracking lines to injector what was meant was loosen the fuel pipe union so that injector is not getting supplied if problem gets worse then that injector is working.If you do this to all four [one at a time] then this eliminates injectors.
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David, thanks (Y)
Seems a complex way to get round the old heater problem I used a 2nd landrover Matrix and altered casing to suit see attached photo's now have to drive with vents open as my heater valve does not shut completely.
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It is a 1984 2495 N/A Diesel. I have checked the bleed bolt, it didn't appear to be coming from there - I will try the priming pump trick when I get a chance. How similar is the DPA to the DPS? And I am amazed at how quickly this leak has turned from a minor annoyance to a serious leak, is this likely to suggest that the top of the IP is worn?
The accelerator spindle and other spindles just have an O ring fitted once passing will get worse quickly.
I have repaired one spindle on my with a o ring from and O ring kit purchased from RS components.
Paid £25 for accelerator spindle and new seal.
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Hi there, new to these forums! Does anyone have any futher information/pictures/places to get parts for this pump? My LR90 has got a major leak from the injection pump and I gotta fix it with minimal funds and space! All help and advice greatly apprechiated. Advice on where the leak is coming from would also be good - the entire pump appears to be covered in diesel.
Many Thanks,
Robin
If your landrover is a 90 what year and engine size?parts probably still easy to get best wash pump off with gunk or hot soapy watger then look for leaks if its accelerator spindle operate priming pump on fuel pump and you should be able to spot where its leaking from.
I have tried attaching a manual for DPA pump not sure if it will attach?
Check air bleed bolt on top of pump as if this is loose you can easy fix it.
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Ok guys, I'll keep going at it with hammer and screwdriver but the 3rd toric circle of the picture is the washer 539745 you see in Les' exploded view or it's another tin in the seal
?Bye
Alessandro
Alessandro
Best off making another split in other part of seal at 180 degrees to the split you have already created and then you shall find it easy to remove.
Doug
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Managed to get it back together and engine running but even with new seals and spindle still leaking diesel I will have to obtain new top as this must be worn too.
Not sure if DPs pump same as DPA early version but it looks exactly like DPA fitted to 90/110 diesels
Couple of pics linked in showing what acts where in case they can help anyone else.
When refitting lid push accelerator spinle through and ensure levers A and C engage in correct position.
A can be proved by pushing linkage through stop stud hole .
If you rotate accelerator spindle anti clockwise then rotate C you will see accelerator spindle move if it is engaged correctly.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj166/p.../Cavpumplid.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj166/p...ver/CavPump.jpg
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Has anyone any info on removal of top of this pump . Removed mine to replace worn accelerator spindle and seals unfortunately afeter refitting my engine is over revving on start,
looks like I have got something in wrong place.Very tricky with three spindles to align.My Engine is 15J Sherpa but pump is same as Defender physically.
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looks like I have got something in wrong place.Very tricky with three spindles to align.
Temp gauge reading high
in Series Forum
Posted
Yes is 10 Volts
Here are some readings taken when doing my conversion to 200DI note the 1st 2 where just different ambient temperatures.
Temperature 13 15 18 56 100C
series sender 460 385 323 118 56 This read correct
Steve Parker
series unit 296 97 45.8 This was the unit I fitted but has always read high so believe the originals resistances.
300tdi 770 587 511 150 98
200Tdi 4100 2800 2000 600 300