[Land rover 3.9 V8]

Thank you Rob this is really going to help

[Land rover 3.9 V8]

Hi Rob

Ok i have done what you have said the rear diff seems to be fine. Could the front diff on the prop shaft which has lots of play more than the back one. Could that make the land rover Jerk as well when gears are changed.

thanks

PS thanks for the manual

[Land rover 3.9 V8]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheel_chock

considering I was suggesting you should inspect the drivetrain without the handbrake on, and the vehicle jacked up, I thought it was good advice that you put some blocks, bricks or a wheel chock under the front wheels to ensure that the vehicle didn't move and run you over.

Can you let us know where you are located there may be a forum member who's able to help?

I am in limpopo south africa

[Land rover 3.9 V8]

I am no expert but if it stalls when you have removed the front prop shaft and you've put it in diff lock something is seized or locked on in the rear drivetrain

Suggestions....

Have you released the handbrake?

Are you sure the handbrake shoes have released?

Have the rear brake pads seized onto the discs?

Is the rear diff seized?

Handbrake released should be quick to check by releasing it in the cab going under the vehicle and rocking the prop shaft with your hand. There should be some movement

Checking the rest of the drivetrain requires you to jack one rear wheel, chock the front wheels and release the handbrake (on a level surface) then spin the wheel and it should turn freely, try the same on the opposite side too

Oh yeah disable the diff lock by moving the short gear stick to the opposite side

WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY CHOCK THE FRONT WHEELS.

THANKS

[Land rover 3.9 V8]

It was a automatic but the people i bought it from made it a manual.

[Land rover 3.9 V8]

.... Are you sure the problem is not with the rear drivetrain?

You seem to have said that with the diff lock on / enabled when you try to move the vehicle it stalls?

Is that correct?

Centre differential is within the transfer case, it transfers the drive between the front and rear prop shafts by applying the diff lock you have effectivly made the differential solid (there is naturally a fair bit of play in the diff lock collar / sleeve) Forget the centre diff for a moment, can you just confirm the stalled question above?

You seem to have said that with the diff lock on / enabled when you try to move the vehicle it stalls?

Is that correct?

this is correct

[Land rover 3.9 V8]

You could also have play from the transfer case input gear where the gearbox mainshaft enters the transfer case. It develops as a clunk on gearchange

There can also be play which develops as wear within the centre differential where there are some brass washers that wear over time hence the planet and sun gears develop a bit of extra play. A similar thing applies to the front and rear differential. All this play adds up and multiplies out as a cluck on gearchange

You need to get under the vehicle and start feeling the drivetrain out with the wheels chocked on some level ground with the handbrakeon and off / released. As if you twist the props about you should be able to work out what is moving and not moving in tandem. There will naturally be a bit of play because of the high / low range sleeve and differential backlash.

As it's a 3.9l if someone has been ragging it about, these points take the brunt and clucks develop

This seems to sound like the problem. Sorry to ask but where is the Centre differential. sorry im abit stupid. Cause i took my front prop shaft off and i put it in diff lock. and then it jerks heavy and engine stops. . . . But what you say seems to be the exact problem. . . . What can i do ...... Thanks so much

[Land rover 3.9 V8]

This is 5 Speed Manual. I tried to take the front prop shaft off and tried to drive it but it wont drive.

[Land rover 3.9 V8]

Please can you help my land rover 3.9 V8

When i leave the clutch each time i change the gears it Jerks and the front prop shaft makes like a clicking noise like there is play on it.

Could this be my transfer case chain.

Thanks

[Oil Pressure]

Ok Thank you very much. I will try it.

[Oil Pressure]

only the one side number 1 piston tappet is making a noise (clicking noise) could that be due to the oil pressure.

[Oil Pressure]

ok thank you very much

[Oil Pressure]

What would happen if i put a thicker spring in so it does not open so quickly.

[Oil Pressure]

Hi Fridge Freezer,

I am using Castrol 20W50 and yes it is the Genuine filter. The tappet noise is only on the right side.

[Oil Pressure]

Hi Everyone,

I need advice i have a land rover 3.9 v8 when i start it. it takes about 10 seconds before the oil light goes off i then also have noisy tappets which comes and goes.

Does anyone have advice for me.

Thanks

[Oil Pressure]

Thanks. how can i take the relief valve out. and how many relief valves are there can a person service a oil pump

[Oil Pressure]

Hi Everyone,

I need advice i have a land rover 3.9 v8 when i start it. it takes about 10 seconds before it goes off i then also have noisy tappets which comes and goes.

Does anyone have advice for me.

Thanks

[Help Needed ECU to Carbs Conversion]

As above, coil only needs three wires:

• One ignition lead to top of dizzy
• Coil negative to dizzy amplifier on side of dizzy
• Coil positive to ignition live.

how will the tachometer work cause the ecu is out where will that go

[Help Needed ECU to Carbs Conversion]

There are two wires its a white and blue wire that goes to the ECU and there is a white and green that goes to a connector plug what must i do with the wire that goes to the ECU.

Thanks

The coil -ve goes to the ECU what do i do with that wire. cause the ECU is out .

[Help Needed ECU to Carbs Conversion]

There are two wires its a white and blue wire that goes to the ECU and there is a white and green that goes to a connector plug what must i do with the wire that goes to the ECU.

Thanks

[Help Needed ECU to Carbs Conversion]

ok. must i put the coil +ve on the ignition positive and coil -ve on the earth

thanks so much for you advice and help.

[Help Needed ECU to Carbs Conversion]

what manual can i use to check. Cause im still a bit puzzled cause the coil wire is out with the loom hot wire.

cause there is wires that go to the ECU main plug.

[Help Needed ECU to Carbs Conversion]

Ok, So I've even checked the manual to check I'm not wrong. I have said this in both of your previous threads, so I can only assume I'm not giving you enough information.

Disconnect the hotwire loom. That's all the sensors on the engine, road speed sensor, lambda cable, the connection to the vehicle electrical system, the coil and probably a good few earths thrown in as well. Remove it from the vehicle.

Check you still have a +12V ignition switched live to the coil (White cable, coil +ve terminal). -ve side goes to distributor. It will make sparks without the ECU present.

Replace your fuel pump. You might need a fuel pressure regulator as Nige has said above. I never used one when I ran a V8 on carbs, but then I wasn't using the standard LR fuel pump.

Where the fuel pump connected to the hotwire loom, connect a +12V ignition switched live to power it. A convenient cable would be the white cable on the car end of the hotwire to car connector (you have of course unplugged this as the hotwire loom is now on the floor out of the vehicle). I'm not certain of the location - you might need to extend it to reach the cable to the fuel pump.

what manual can i use to check. Cause im still a bit puzzled cause the coil wire is out with the loom hot wire.

[Help Needed ECU to Carbs Conversion]

Ok we took the wires out put what do we do with the wires that went to the ECU.

Thanks

[ECU to Carbs conversion]

we took the fuel injection out and we put the carburetors on need to know how to do the wiring