[Worlds best Cranked FRONT RADIUS ARMS]

I guess this fella is in need of dough..... Broke to the joints......

[Jacking Points/Axle Stands]

I must admit that I am a " noobie" in the Landy world but take extreme precautions when going underneath the "monster" of a car.. Def 110 td5 99 model.... My worst fear is to end up in a bloodpool... I have my phone next to me and support it on 3 stands. I always assume the first one will miss and the 2nd will take the weight and if that misses the 3rd can tolerate the rest... It is not that easy though.....grrrrrrr .. U should simply see me going under ,,,, It is a scary business.. I wonder if anyone has been WELL SANDWICHED under a Landy...... Hope I am not giving readers the creeps..

[stubburn bolts!!]

The drilling method is simply the best... I have drilled off 12,13,14,15,16mm nuts and gosh it save a lot of time. Remember to use a drills for metals not the weak ones for wood... It did the job even on my shock absovers... good luck

[Twisty Tyres..]

As above, cup stucky, no goey inney.

Anyway, I borrowed a pitman puller from my local mechanic, and it came off with a bit of a bang.

Once off, I was able to press the cup fully home and got it all refitted last night

Wow that was a PITMAN PULLER..... Owww ma Gawd!!!! I am actually planning to get off the whole box and renew the seals... But that was something.. I will find a workshop that can borrow me one...Thanks for the tips..

[Twisty Tyres..]

I had to do mine once. The trick we used was to put the puller on the drop arm, tighten it up and then hit the bottom of the puller. This managed to shock it free.

HTH

Ivan

Really?.. Was there enuf space to hit the lower part of the pullar arm? did you use a sledge hammer? And how hard did you hit?... Just curious.. Currently at work and still making plans to get the #¤!! thing off... Even though i have supported and resecured the chasis.. do not want to end up in bloodpool out of loosing the stand.Looking forward to taking pictures when it is out......

[Twisty Tyres..]

I had to do mine once. The trick we used was to put the puller on the drop arm, tighten it up and then hit the bottom of the puller. This managed to shock it free.

HTH

Ivan

Owwwww.. getting the chills down my spines... I guess a solid hydraulic shock to it will help.. I can see they used locktight in addition... The safety measure here was overdone I guess... Tell me how it went with the Hydy puller....

[Twisty Tyres..]

The one on my old Tdi 90 never did come off. It broke several pullers, got driven for 10s of 000s of miles with the nut loose, had the (faeces) beaten out of it, got attacked with the blowtorch, nothing. It went in the scrap with the old box after I destroyed both in a vain attempt to remove it. I did manage to change the joint twice in-situ though.

Chris

Grinding my teeth now..... .Well I will give it a try then.. The plan is to armour myself to the teeth..... thanks for the tips.. Will tell you how it went...

[Twisty Tyres..]

I got it Les.. that was cool..... I will give it a try tomorrow... Thanks for the tip.....I better fight it like a Zulu worrior... with your Chrome...

[Twisty Tyres..]

Hi Fellows.... I got this twisty movement on my td5 110 99 model and making the effort to change the drop arm.. The problem is that it is simply impossible to get the drop arm out.. I just could not believe how those...%&? words came outa-ma-mauwth( outofmymouth).. Anyway I am also using a tool to pull it out but to no avail... I have a pic on here.. Any one been into this?

[Rear Door Lock]

When I bought mine, I had the same problem.. td5 110 99 mod. I bought new catridges or lock cylinders and changed it... When it is locked, there is a metal pin that stands upright...( ooohhh what was I thinking now) when opened it clicks down. It is an easy operation actually.. most likely an hour or less.....Good luck