dantd5

Thanks I got wiser by all the advises. Job done. Compressor working nicely and truck has a ducky bum. Thanks for all contributions. Dan

Hi Si Thanks for the advise. Many have told be to cut it out so I will just do that and yes will use a riv-nut. thanks once again. Dan

Hi Gurus and experts of the forum (bowing with head low ) I am about to change the compressor unit on my Discovery 2 2002 MY. My problem is the 2 bolts holding the unit to the chasis giving me a slight pain in the brain. I am tempted to cut it off but fear it will be another headache putting the whole unit back. The bolt rotates alright but never moves towards me. should I cut it? All comments accepted with open arms. (Picture by courtesy of X8R) Dan

Hi fellow I am a proud owner of a Defender 1999 MY and a Discovery 2002 model and notice how the disco marks territories I visit. I have been banished from visiting in-laws, best friends and now my uncle forbids me from coming over. I have changed the FPR 3 times on the defender so I am very conversant with this problem. The discovery is the culprit this time. I have changed the FPR on it currently and there are no leakages. However, I have purchased a repair kit but notice there is a slight difference is the kit I got compared to the one on the truck. Can someone highlight me on the differences. One removed from the truck has a rounded end with a wee bit hole. the one I have received has an outlet which I do not know it's function. Dan

Actually it is just one of the bolts that runs-over. Over here a 1 hour machine shop visit will drain my economy to bits. I will start with the cheap path and then see if I must visit a shop then. Thanks for the good advice. Very appreciative for that. Best Regards Dan

Hello Defender gurus. I manged to overtorque the 5 bolts that lead to the swivel housing ( just one went rolling). Is there a way of getting this bolt to bite as I have some oil leakages on the RH side of the tires (Passenger seat). All suggestings wellcomed Regards Dan

End of Story.. I changed the whole rear axel and placed tho old one in the shed. No more growling noise.

Is it SWMBO or as above,Dave? Just ignorant

Ejparrott you build the confidence that seemed to be gone. I am watching on closely. Good write-up!

I had this similar problem after I pressed hard on brake. I had earlier on changed the rear air suspension bags. Well there appeared all sorts of lights on the dash including the SLS in yellow and green lights for M + S. I bought a New battery but it was short lived as the lights returned once again.. Anyway, the problem was that the dynamo/alternator was squashed and this prevented the battery to be charged. New dynamo and truck is in top form.

:huh:I am following this post closely as I am having the same problem with my 99 MY defender 110. Friends tell me it is not rocket science fixing this but I dread the thought of it. I have checked and got a refurbed part for a lump sum of (and I quote from the mail) £ 662,50 - Axel with disk £ 300,00 - Surcharge for Axel (and we must recieve the old axel - a so called like for like and in functioning order) £ 175,00 - Shipping cost I lost my breath and fell over at seeing this mail. My other half commented thus - " Sell that truck. That noise under gives me the creeps" and added, " You touch a penny from our savings and there will be no food on the table for months" :blink: :wacko:.

Hi Nige,,, That was rather quick. Thanks a lot for that useful info

My Diff is growling lately and moving the prop on the rear gives a movement up and downwards (vertically) Have googled to no avail. I will wait for an adult to turn up!!

A degress here.. .. Is it the stinking red oil in the gear case...Thanks

Thanks Andy You got mail...

Fellows as topic clearly says, can this be possible? My teeth aches a lot after I get this grinding noise either from the tranny or the diff and getting sick of it. I have checked wheel bearings and they are fine. CVs too are fine. A big time backlash scares me too but I will start gradually somewhere like the diff. Any contribution will be respected and accepted. Thanks a lot.

I changed the chrome LHD right side (where the half shaft- CV ) is located. This was done in 2009 4 years and the rust has poked it's face again. The result is an-all-round-territorial-marking wherever I go. To put it straight it was a britpart. Now I have purchased a genuine part for almost £140. Hope it lasts this time... Anyone facing this problem? Truck is a 99 MY defender 110

Funny topic .. Just can't stop laughing. It looks like they are silent after the turmoil. Not only is big bro watching but small brother as well!!

I thought defenders were natural born coolers

And if you get it done, note the directions to which they went to release the nut! I have noted that in writing on my truck. I wrenched on the wrong direction once and did worsen matters

EXmoor trim but then you need to sell your house ....

GEt a check on the master and slave clutch cylinders I guess!!!

Well the drag link option is a PITA.. You'd be reversing and forwarding a-many-times!! Steering wheel have been removed with right tool many times and readjusted to right position...(Or an adult can help us)

I have a 4 bolt Adwest PAS box and have tightened it a couple of times to avert the play. My experience is that you will at all times alter the positioning of the steering. Re-position it by removing the steering wheel!!Pic below

Lots to learn here. I have this problem on some hinges I painted recently.... (Not capturing thread though)