damian666

Must admit hadn't perused Japan's wiring peculiarities! Many apologies steve! have rumaged up some wiring maps (enclosed) which aren't either yours (the Japanese variant) or mine (the ES variant) but someone may find them helpful! I think they are for the remainder of the variations, if someone knows more accurately. Haven't had a chance to record neatly and phot mine (ES) but will do shortly.

There is a difference between the factory head units on the ES and other models, and this includes the connections on the back. I can put together a wiring diagram and details for the ES "high line" stereo version when I am back at home, which I have got from the Rave manual and poking about with a meter! LR also changed the supplier of the heads around 96/97 so that adds issues. There is a marked difference between the heads especially regarding the sub outs. The high line on mine has a 7pin linear connector providing line level to the sub and power taken from the ISO power connector via dedicated output from the head. I beleive (i may be wrong) that the mid and low level heads/setups have a round 'sub' connection which provides power and signal in one. Again, I can have a look at the Rave manual to prove exactly. I will also try and get some pics of the 96 ES 'high line' head rear. As regards the pics below, I need to check the wiring map I have at home for the relevant stereo, but form memory, Pink 10 pin is the remote controls brown 8pin is for the speaker outputs, 2wires per speaker (no common negs) grey 8pin is powers in and out (there is I seem to recall 2 grounds!) Sorry it's all a bit vague but I am 200miles form the wiring diagrams, but will post them as soon as I can! The confusions between the differnet models of vehicle and heads got me very puzzled for a while, but I have got there in the end! The other one to mention is the CD multipin wiring. The different heads have different wiring on the 13pin din connector under the seat, so if anyone is planning on playing with it, be careful to pick the righ one or you can toast your ipod (trust me I know!) which I was trying to get to talk to the stock head via some clever wiring! HTH D

Having just fitted an after market head into my Disco 1 ES, I can tell ya that the sub takes a line level feed from an dedicated output from the stock head, and a 12v+ from it too. I have piggy-backed the 12v+ feed from the post ignition switch feed so the sub power goes on and off with the ignition, and taken the audio line level feed from an aux out on the head. The amp in the rear door has a simple filter in it to try and keep low end only going to it so connecting it like this will work, but it isn't as good as the original. The stock head also filters and eq's the sub feed coming from it. I am going to fit a different aftermarket head in the near future that gives adjustment of the sub out so I can tune it better. All in all it took me an hour, and at the same time I added a USB power supply into the cavity in the console running via the switched power feed to power the phone/pda and an ipod holder, with the wires all buried and neat looking! The main speaker connections are direct via the ISO connector and is directly interchangeable if your aftermarket head is 'standard' iso wiring. Regarding the interference, the stock heads are actually very good, and well filtered (older and simpler IMHO!) so less reseptive to the interference. Nwere heads with 23956 different features are less filtered and more prone to rubbish, so running seperate line from battery will help. Be careful to only replace the constant feed, not the ignition feed. WARNING After the 1 series, landrover started going mad and having remote amps, and the heads just sent line feeds to the amps, so don't try it like this with a newer vehicle! To fit an aftermarket head you have to either find a head with enough line level outputs to run to the amps, or bypaww the amps altogether and use the head amps to power the speakers HTH D