Phil Hancock
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Posts posted by Phil Hancock
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Great information, Phil. Thanks a lot!
I also checked the parts catalogue for a list of part numbers and references for suffix D, so that will help too (I hope).By looking at the pictures, I get the impression that it's possible to adjust the fork without taking the gearbox out. Just openning the top lid I should have access to the rail and the screw that fixes the fork in place. Is this correct? Or does the gearbox have to come out, one more time?
Yes just take the top off in situ to get at the selectors. DONT drop the selector detent balls or plungers in the box when you take the top off.On the A, B or C selector rail the notch that the selector fork pinch bolt goes thro is only slightly bigger than the bolt but the D on rail has an extended notch that will allow more movement to the fork so the bottom of the notch is flat.
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There is only 2 options for the selector rail, suffix A, B & C and D onwards. The differences on a D on are; the front groove is wider allowing more lengthwise adjustment movement of the fork on the rail, the other is on the 3 grooves on top(1-N-2), the distance between 1/2 and N is larger on the D suffix as they need a larger depth of engagement.
If the early rail has been fitted with D gears it will jump out of 1st & 2nd.
If you look at page 37-20 there is some info about the setting of the 1st/2nd fork on the rail for D on boxes.
Hope this helps.
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That looks familiar
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In a suffix D box the engagement teeth in the syncro hubs are machined with a relief so that when in gear there is a ridge that would need to be ridden over to jump out of gear. These gears are refered to as ECM gears. Jumping out if both gear and syncro hub are new and the correct part, this also includes the selector rail, for a D suffix box can only be down to incorrect setting of the selector fork on the selector rail, making it so that the engagement is not far enough in, meaning that there is no ridge to ride over to jump out of gear.
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I have got some modern rubber ones and also some metal/leather type.
Is one type better than the other, and if I use the leather ones should I soak them in oil first?
The leather ones will be kinder to the sealing collar, and yes they should be well soaked before use.
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Anyone know off an over large seal or another way of stopping this leak before i need another engine
I had a rear seal leak problem on a 2.5nad, not a mark on the sealing surface on the crank, 2 seals in 5000miles!, cured by changing from the hard dowty type to the softer orange coloured from Allmakes.
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Nice one here on eBlag being sold by Equicar.
Its ended.
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Makes me wonder about looking at the 2.5 we had with it, the bellhousing has a missing part, but it looks like we could just bolt our 2.25 housing straight on if needed, which might mean the starter motor will work too.
If your 2.25 is a 5 bearing unit then yes the 2.5 bellhousing will fit, if it is a 3 bearing unit then no it wont fit.
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Dont forget to glaze bust the bores if going down the re-ring or re-fitting of original piston/ring assemblies route, failure to do so WILL result in high oil consumption/smoke.
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On 35's, even with 4.11 R&P's, the gearing will still be a little on the high side. 33's or and 4.11's is nearer to the stock gearing.
Or what about 35's with 4.7:1R&P's, how does that compare? If nothing else at least its a standard landy diff ratio.
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Does anybody know of a company that does 'Friction Welding', this is not the sort that arises from running a diff or whatever with no oil in it, but the joining of two parts(shafts) by spinning and pressure. As i am looking to get some halfshafts shortened for a project, they are not available comercially hence the question.
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Help
the indicators oin my landy have packed up tried the flasher unit on one of my others and it works,tried the switch on the other landy and it works.
the hazard lights work but not the indicators
help tis doing my head in
cheers Andrew
Check the hazard switch as the indicators run thro it if it is the original 'Hella' unit.
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I think I get that, shall have a play
Good, just let us know when its sorted if i was right or not.
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Hi
This is from memory of about 10 years ago but here we go.
1:In pic 3 the buckle part is the wrong way up so swap the 2 straps at the bonnet side for side.
2:With the buckle laying flat like it is shown in pic 3, bring the other strap underneath & back thro the buckle, then dive it down to the underneath between the hinge & the first bar beyond the hinge on the Y strap side.
To tension flick buckle up, pull tail strap & flatten out buckle till the detents click in.
If you look in pic 3 you can see that the tension is trying to open the buckle as you have it threaded.
Hope this helps.
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Another minor point from original is that the front halfshafts you have are civvy not the proper LWT type.
But saying that i used to see LWT's running about in Plymouth & Devonport dockyard still in service with the Royal Marines that had got odd civvy pattern shafts as replacements for broken originals.
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Boght a new one off a local rover guy for 150 and it should be her monday or so...
I hope that for £150 it is a new one & not S/H from a scrapper.
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i wouldn't be overly worried about if the discs are vented or not. are TI still using a single pot sliding caliper? thats the bit that really puts me off their kit, along with the small diameter of the disc.
TI are now using vented discs but the caliper is a 2 pot sliding thing. They are actually Santana PS10 units, all i can say about them is that on the PS10 they pull up fine even with a 4 wheel trailer with a loaded transit on it!
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Hi, I've been reading up on rebuilding my 2.25 petrol with a view to finding out how much it is likely to cost me . Generally the prices of parts seem quite reasonable but I don't understand why I need to replace the bolts for the bigend bearings. Can anyone advise me ? oh its a 5mb by the way. Thanks
The rover manual does NOT require the big end or main bearing bolts to be changed during an overhaul on any of the 2.25 engines or LR 2.5, only big end nuts. Obviously if any are damaged then they will require replacing.
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This afternoon the 110 developed a loud knocking from what sounds like the rear nearside wheel. It speeds up as the vehicle does and can shake everything around 30ish. Strangely though it goes away when you put power down and accelerate. I have consulted my Haynes which suggests a worn hub bearing.. can anyone confirm this or suggest what it may be?
Worn out shock bushes allowing the rear axle to tramp, with very bad bushes you might be getting metal to metal contact hence the knocking.
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Front axle:
Play in diff nose, it can be waggled, it's not the UJ as they are new and the play is actually on the flange. Play disappears or reduces after driveline slack is taken up by turning the prop. It almost appears to screw in turning anti-clockwise.
finally the play in the diff nose, this is presumably the bearing and crushable thingy that needs replacing isn't it? It is leaking some oil. Oh, I did also check that the diff had oil in and while ugly and needs changing it was full.
The flange will appear to screw in when the drive goes on forwards as its a spiral bevel drive.
There is no 'chrushable thingy' on a rover diff only on a Salisbury type, preload on rover type is by shims. The leak will be caused by worn seal and the play you describe being more than the flexability of the seal being able to cope with.
The noise is as the pinion is screwing in under forward load/overun the clearance between the ring and pinion has gone and they are then binding.
Replacement diff time is the simplest if you dont know how to set them up.
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Can anyone tell me where the water to feed the heater comes from and where it returns back into the system. Will be running it on a S3. I had heard that the take off is on the rear N/S of the block. Anyone confirm/deny that.
Thanks in advance
Some years ago i stripped out the arctic heater from an arctizised S3 12 seater that was ex navy, one connection was a black iron barrel nipple screwed into the imersion heater port on the block, back left side. the other port was created by an extra lower thermo housing fitted upside down below the normal lower housing(longer bypass hose), the heater hose went onto the upstanding stub.
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i found it best to download as 'open', then press the button in adobe that takes you to the last page (now go and have a large G&T), come back and select 'save a copy' that should do the trick
Sorted by doing an update on Adobe reader from V6 to V7.05
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Just found some useful manuals here, including the elusive parts catalogue:
Has anybody else had any problems with the 110 parts book down load from this site?, my PC keeps crashing when trying to do the down load.
I also checked the parts catalogue for a list of part numbers and references for suffix D, so that will help too (I hope).
A shock in the rear
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I dont know what the part number is but at Woolston 4 x 4 they have the bottom brackets on the shelf.