LandyManLuke
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Posts posted by LandyManLuke
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That its less likely to be an earth fault. Well, less likely to be an earth fault at a lamp holder. Could be elsewhere.
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I find plusgas much better than WD40. I buy it in bulk from my local Engineering supplier which makes it reasonably priced too.
Duck Oil is pretty good and diesel is good for soaking parts too.
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Is that still the case with all bulbs removed? All four corners - sideslights/brakes and indicators.
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No problem at all, just make sure you position the fairlead such that the rope is limited from running on the edge of the drum.
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What you describe points to a typical earth problem. What are the bulb holders grounded to? Have you tried running a new earth cable from the lamp holder back to the battery, just for testing purposes?
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Yup. CVs. Typically a pretty solid repeated 'clack', when there's some lock on, often worse in reverse. Swivels don't normally make a repeating noise.
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Sorry, perhaps I wasn't clear. Reversing with lock and listening for a repeated 'clack' is a test for worn CVs.
The bearing/swivel test involves jacking the wheel up, securing it on an axle stand, and shaking the wheel at 12/6 o'clock and 3/9 o'clock, with and without someone holding the foot brake on.
Luke
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Front or back?
CVs click rather than knock, but do often sound worse when reversing with lock on, when they're getting knackered. A front wobble will stop with the foot brake applied if its wheel bearings. If its still there, its the swivel pins.
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Have a look at www.beltingonline.com, it gives details on the profiles, as well as available lengths. Prices are reasonable too.
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Somewhat overkill, in terms of sledgehammer to crack a nut, and most motherboards, especially small ones, are only rated to 500mA per output.
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Yes, the handbrake drum is on the rear of the transfer box, so a propshaft, diff and drive flanges away from the rear wheels, where the foot brake works. This means that you'll see backlash and or wind-up when applying the hand brake on a gradient.
Sounds like you have a leak from the transfer box rear output seal. You need to sort this as oil on the hand brake shoes will ruin them.
Edit: too slow!
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It's not critical, within the range of the adjustment in the bracket. I generally just buy whatever is available and nearest in length. Belts are generally available in half inch increments.
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I seriously doubt you'll lift it straight in.
I've moved a milling machine and a lathe about, with just me and a mate. They Egyptians managed fine with blocks, levers, ramps etc. and so far I've had similar success with a bit of lateral thinking and time.
Is your floor boarded? 250kg landing on an edge or a corner will make a nice dent.
If you have access to an engine crane, I would seriously consider it, it'll make life a lot easier.
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The website spec gives the bolt pattern as 4.5" x 10", but no additional information on the other dimensions - Bowie's comment above on offsets is important.
http://milemarker.com/pdf_downloads/2012/h_series.pdf
If you have the winch in front of you, it's pretty straight forward to work out what's required.
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If you want to, PM me some dimensions and I'll draw something up and get you a price for having it laser cut.
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Where abouts are you? Getting something drawn and laser cut is a good way forward.
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Oxford
www.migtig.arc.co.uk is worth a look through...
MTA 181 Compact Mig Welder - used one of a mates was impressed, a big powerfull simple kick **** bit of kit
Oxford Migmaker 180 Mig Welder baby Version of what I have (330 amp version) lovely welder
All made by Technical Arc, in York, who also make Portamigs
http://www.technicalarc.co.uk/home
I have had a Portamig 211 for about 8 years and it's a fantastic piece of kit. It's worth doing some research on www.mig-welding.co.uk
Luke
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I built one from 160x80x5 box section. Its pretty similar to the standard cross member dimensions. I profiled the ends the same as a standard cross member, it's completely boxed in and sealed, with a pint of oil inside for good measure.
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Based on experience, the noise from a completely unsilenced exhaust becomes very tedious if you plan on driving for any time. A friend had a 200tdi 90 with no silencers and it was no fun on long journeys.
I've got a centre box in my stainless steel exhaust, with a short and simple pipe at the back, which is much more pleasant on long journeys.
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If you don't want to do all the hardware and software yourself, stepper drives with built in RFGs (Ramp Function Generators) and positioners are available off the shelf.
You will need to be careful with the HF from the TIG torch, it could well play havoc with the stepper driver, you'll need to take good EMC precautions.
Have a look at the following link for an idea of what people are using for low-cost applications.
http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/en/3-stepper-drivers?orderby=price&orderway=asc
This driver for example has an RS232 interface.
If you make your own position controller, it can talk 'step and direction' to the stepper motor driver, which will look after the detail of stepping (and microstepping) the motor
Luke
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Arguably, a bigger battery would allow you to crank the engine for longer before the battery went flat, leading to increased duty on the starter motor. This would be completely prevented by not holding the key for too long, and isn't really an electrical issue caused by the battery, more the operator.
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What engine have you taken out?
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I don't know the ajax machine, but on my bridgeport it's been no big deal to remove the original (broken) motor and replace it with a standard IEC framesize motor, wound 240v delta/415v star, running in delta on an inverter. I've rewired start/stop/direction through the original switches, using the inverter's 24v inputs.
Note, not all motors are wired star/delta, some are wired star/star, both windings being 415v, but giving different speeds. Running either of these windings on 240v will give a poorly fluxed motor, producing poor torque as Si has mentioned.
Going to town, with a decent inverter, it's possible to parameterise the inverter for two seperate motors, then use an input connected through an aux terminal on a contactor (for example) to switch the inverter parameters automatically, between two machines. This gives independent control of ramps, setpoints etc.
Luke
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Were you connecting 12v between a supply and each indicator? If so, you probably have a short in your indicator wiring.
First thing I'd do is remove the lenses from the indicator bulb units, and remove the units from the wings, and see if you've still got an earth fault.
Whip hose for air hose
in Tools and Fabrication
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I just make tails from hose and barbed fittings, much easier and more flexible.