DaveR

I had my Td5 breathed on by Td5 alive and I'm very impressed. Before I went there though, I took out the EGR and that made a useful difference. However, the Td5 remap was quite astonishing. If I'm restrained and drive it sensibly then economy has increased noticeably. Trouble is, it's so tempting to put the foot down now..... Next stage probably take out the exhaust cat.

Very many thanks. I'll get on to it once the snow stops. Dave

Simple really.. .I should have thought that if I wanted a feed that is live only when in position 2 then I should look at the ignition switch. Followed the green stripy wire from the ignition switch back to teh fuse box under the steering wheel and there was a nice connector ready for me to tap in to. I would like to get the spade connector out of the (brown) connector block so I can reterminate it with the extra wire I need. Can't get it out of the block tho - any ideas? The spades obviously push in but then latch and I can't reverse the process. Also if I can't do that, then I'd like to splice into that green stripy wire somehow. I know Scotchloks are widely used but I feel they must weaken the wire you are tapping in to. Any better ways of doing this. I'm handy with heat shrink and solder but wondered what the preferred method is of tapping into a wire. Cheers Dave

I'm trying to install an hour counter in my Disco Td5. This counter is powered by 12V and I want it only to count the time when the engine is running. I have looked through Rave but cannot find an easily accessible (from under the RHS fascia under the steering wheel) source of 12V that is only present when the engine is switched on. Actually, when the key is in position 2 is OK as well - how often do I have the key in position 2 with the engine not running? Not often! This might be obvious, but no voltage present when the key is in position 1 or out of the ignition switch entirely. This is baffling me - an hour or so of rooting around with a voltometer has left me none the wiser. Cheers

It's a manual. Good idea about putting the car on a slope. I'll try it. Thanks

Vougese39 - so why would the noise disappear instantly with just a light touch on the accelerator and similarly reappear when I lift off? Still baffled! Thanks for your reply though. Cipx2 - the noise is at the same pitch regardless of engine or road speed. It's present even if AC is switched right off. My money is on something to do with the ABS manifold as it sounds as if it's in about the right place, or the PAS pump but can't explain why only present on overrun or braking..... Cheers the noo Dave

Very strange noise this one. The noise sounds exactly like a cicada or cricket as featured on all the best films in the tropics! Fomr the drivers seat it sounds as tho it is coming from high up in the passenger footwell. The noise doesn't always happen, but once it does start it never stops for that journey. The sound disappears totally on acceleration and when moving the steering wheel from the straight ahead position. The sound is only there when the car is moving and on the overrun or during braking. When stationary but with the engine running, it disappears. Everything works fine and there are no error codes anywhere! Baffled. What do you think it is?? Cheers Dave

Well finally i succumbed. Have just seen the bit about A3/B3 being backward compatible - so my trusty Mobil 1 would have been OK. However, found some Magnatec 5W/30 fully synthetic which is A1/B1 so I got some of that. The engine in the Td5 seems fine - using no oil and very smooth and quiet and pulls like a train so I doubt Mobil 1 did any harm... I long for the days when it was Castrol GTX or nothing! Dave

I'm sure this must have been covered before, but for the life of me can't find the topic anywhere.... I'm just about to change the engine oil in my Td5 Disco. Handbook says to use a 5W/30, 5W/40 5W/50 or 10W/40 meeting ACEA A1/B1 or B2. I was just about to pour in my trusty Mobil 1 Fully synthetic 0W/40 but noiticed it doesn't meet Acea A1/B1. It instead meets A3/B3. Now, would I harm the engine by putting in Mobil 1 (A3/B3), or should I really stick to some A1/B1 stuff I can find?? Halfords do 5l of a semi synthetic 5W/30 for £19.99 and it meets A1/B1. Costco also sell some suitable Chevron semi synthetic oil 5W/30 at £40.23 for 20l. Which should I go for. What do you guys use?? Cheers Dave

Stop press! Son had been clambering about the car ysterday and beeped the horn a few times. One of the steering wheels was sitting squint. i guess when the car cooled down in the night, contact was then made and the horn went beeeeeeeeeeeeep. Moral of story - don't let enthusiastic 3yr old boys loose in the car. Thanks for your suggestions guys. Dave

Hear hear! Norton must be destroyed. Than install Lavasoft Ad-Aware, Spybot Search and Destroy, and then rely on AVG Free to protect you. Kaspersky online scanner is jolly super too.

Thanks Mark, I'll check those pesky steering wheel switches this morning. They do seem less than rock solid so hope (fingers crossed) they are the problem. The other thought that occurred to me was a faulty horn relay. Now to work out which relay of several dozen it is...

It was the horn (Beep beep) except it didn't go beep beep it went beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep for about 10 mins until I could disconnect the battery.

2001 Discovery Td5. I was woken this evening - along with most of my neighbours - when the horn on my Disco spontaneously started to sound. Disarming and rearming the alarm had no effect. The horn was sounding continuously. Eventually, the only way to silence it was to disconnect the battery earth lead. Any ideas what would have caused this and how to fix it in the morning???? Dave

I've just had my 2001 Td5 Disco remapped by Gary at Td5alive. I'm very impressed at both how he worked and the end result. I drove home with a big grin on my face. The engine now pulls like a train all the way to 4500rpm and probably beyond without sounding as thought it's in pain. The standard tune engine sounded horrible anywhere above 4000. All I need now is a 6th gear. Much smoother and more torquey drive now. Money well spent.