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BogMonster last won the day on October 14 2019

BogMonster had the most liked content!


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About BogMonster

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    Third rock from the Antarctic - 51°41.8'S 57°50.5'W

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  1. Somebody sent me a link to this. Doesn't seem like 15 years ago. Rather a lot of artistic licence has crept in with the passage of time but it was damn good fun 😁 https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/features/subscriber-extra-exploring-landie-capital-world There was a link on here to the original full article with loads of photos, but it seems to have expired.
  2. I've just bought a new Series 6 shape L200 Trojan and so far I'm quite pleased with it, only the tyres changed so far and a canopy on the way. The big difference with the L200 is that the Trojan and above has a proper 4WD system that you can run in 4WD on the road, most/all of the others have a part time 4x4 system that will wind up on a sealed surface where the L200 has the Shogun's Super Select system giving 2WD, 4WD centre diff open, 4WD centre diff locked and 4WD low range. Was concerned the new adblue 2.2 engine might be a bit gutless compared to the old 2.4 in the Series 5 but when I drove them back to back I can't say I noticed any real difference.
  3. This is on a 2015 Puma 2.2 110, but I don't think it matters. Can you fit alloys (standard LR type such as the Tornado/Freestyle or the later Boost) onto a vehicle which has Ashcroft HD drive flanges and shafts fitted, this sort: https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/drive-flanges/859.html They look thicker and I'm not sure if alloys will go over them or not, as I know there are fitting issues on older vehicles with the original thick type LR drive flanges.
  4. Slow deflation from a nail hole, tyre sidewall gradually gets v v v v v hot - bang flubbleubbleubble bits everywhere - often not much warning if you're driving in a straight line, if cornering the handling will go a bit spongy with the sidewall flex.
  5. I always carry one (sometimes two) though in reality all the punctures I have fixed recently have been removing nails/screws/other stuff in my workshop and fixing a hole then putting it back on the vehicle. I think the last time I had to do a roadside puncture repair on any of my vehicles was probably getting on for 15 years ago, though the wife had one a couple of years back with a sharp rock right through a nearly new BFG MT (tears). The judgement is probably best to be made on the basis of where you are and what happens next if you have a puncture. If you are in the UK and can call the AA then fine, carry on. Here, if you're out in the sticks somewhere and rip a tyre, it's potentially likely to be massively inconvenient and there are no recovery services.
  6. If it's 50mm it should have a flat on top of the ball, if it is 2" then it will be round on top.
  7. If in a corner one wheel reads 50mph and one wheel reads 30mph, you are about to have an effin great big accident so probably won't be looking at the speedo
  8. Coffee/keyboard
  9. I'm confused ... do they want to be seen, or not?
  10. I always thought a 90 looked right on 265/75R16 - here's my old one, some way from the nearest Tesco
  11. I don't think there are many D Sport owners on here to be honest. Sorry - I don't know anything about them!
  12. Interesting, thanks. Hadn't thought of the dim-to-off bit, the Puma is the same. I guess the tangs need bending for the larger ones so 36mm is maybe the right size.
  13. I wondered if the ones that only radiate light in one direction would spin around in the fitting with road vibration?
  14. OK thanks, hadn't found that but it's a whole light and more expensive than Mud, I just want bulbs. Ebay cheapies seem to be "you get what you pay for" as is often the case, so I think unless there's a firm rec, it's a toss up between the Nak ones or perhaps these : https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/239-philips-x-treme-vision-led-12v-38mm-number-plate-interior-festoon-bulb.html
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