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BogMonster

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BogMonster last won the day on October 14 2019

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About BogMonster

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    http://www.Idonthaveawebsiteurl.com

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    Third rock from the Antarctic - 51°41.8'S 57°50.5'W

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  1. Supplementary: I've now got another one of these to fit to the Puma. I want to also put it in the front electric window switch hole (left or right of the CD player, not bothered which), Two questions: 1) How does the OEM Alpine CD come out (2015 Puma, original stereo as far as I know), does it need a couple of long flat 'keys' inserted along either side, are there hidden Allen key clamps, or what is the removal process? 2) What's the physical access like inside the Puma dash - I need to access the back of the cig lighter socket (off the bottom right of the photo) in order to attach the MUD accessory harness to the back of that and route the harness up to the USB socket. Is this realistic without taking the whole dash off? I've never had a Puma dash centre out so not sure how hard it is to take the whole centre out, and I suspect there is lots of heater-related rubbish that will be in the way if you just try and feed the harness down through from the stereo hole?
  2. I should know this but to be fair I've been out of the business for a while now! My father has a 2013 Discovery 4 SDV6. It's out in the sticks at the moment and showing a water in fuel warning light. Am I correct in thinking that the fuel filter is completely inaccessible on these things without a ramp or a pit, and is somewhere under the middle towards the back end? Does it even have a drain point, or is the water sensor somewhere else? I know on the Td5 models the water in fuel warning was more likely to indicate a sensor fault than water in the fuel, but I don't know how reliable the D4 sensor is. The warning comes and goes so I am inclined to think it's not real.
  3. The first ones have landed in the deep south and I went for a nose at it the other day. Not available to test for a while but first impressions were that it looks a lot nicer in the flesh than in most of the photos (the one I looked at was dark green which is my colour choice anyway). First impressions were, driver's seating position generally comfortable but not sure about the left leg for long trips, would have to try it. I thought the 2nd row pax legroom looked a bit tight. Lots of nice solid tiedowns in the back. It looked and felt like a vehicle that was built to be used. The main stumbling block still seems to be the price having doubled. Shall continue to watch with interest.
  4. What a shame it appears to have no effect on car theft in practice!
  5. The Bluesea socket that I bought from MUD are supposed to have a very low parasitic drain of 1mA. I've not tested it that way, as mine is wired to the back of the cig lighter so goes off with the ignition. Whether you trust a dingaling branded cheap item off Amazon with being permanently live in the car is a personal risk assessment but with 2 people I distantly know having had their house catch fire in the recent past due to cheap Chinesium phone chargers going pop, I wouldn't touch anything like that with a barge pole personally. https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/blue-sea-carling-compatible-usb-socket?_pos=7&_sid=5984398e0&_ss=r
  6. Thanks, from that link it looks like they are the same parts. That's a good link, duly bookmarked!
  7. One of our 300Tdi Defenders (this is a late 300Tdi, 2005 model year export vehicle) needs several new door latches - the whole latch inside the door not just the lockset. They're just worn out with age and gritty muck ingress from tens of thousands of miles on unsurfaced roads and off road. A local supplier has what they say are Puma latches in stock at reasonable prices. Are they the same? I know the tail door has a different latch assy on the Puma because the door handle is different (the Puma one has holes in the handle), but I don't know about the side doors. Can anybody with a parts manual to cover both 2005 and the Puma age vehicles tell me how many different door latches there are for front and 2nd row side doors, and the VIN/MY change points? Thanks. Non central locking, if that makes a difference.
  8. I read "Land Rover finally admits that none of the cars it makes nowadays are Land Rovers".
  9. A bit late for the main discussion but I had to find a decent compressor that would run off a modest single phase power supply (because that's all we had at the time I built my garage about 10 years ago) and after previously dealing with the company for a much larger industrial workshop compressor, I ended up with one of these from Air Industrial Equipment: https://www.aiedirect.co.uk/page9.html Their website looks like it was designed in 1974, but the machine itself is proper old fashioned heavy iron kit that makes most of the Chinesium stuff look like it's made of tinfoil.
  10. My mid-2015 2.2 110 definitely only has a 2 pin front diff made of cheese, as I can see it through the 'ole. I understand probably also has a poverty spec centre diff in the late models as well. Deep joy.
  11. Just to close this out for other people who may be interested in doing the same - I ordered the double Bluesea one from MUD-UK and the cigar lighter adaptor flylead that they supply. Links are: Bluesea socket: https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/collections/sockets-plugs/products/blue-sea-carling-compatible-usb-socket Adaptor lead: https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/collections/sockets-plugs/products/mud-12v-cigar-lighter-piggy-back-loom As advised by MUD, the Bluesea socket needs the window switch hole filed out slightly to allow the switch to slide in and lock. I also found that the foam backing piece (it's like a foam seal) needed to be discarded for it to click in properly, and the corners of the Bluesea body needed to be rounded off slightly for it to fit in the aperture properly. None of that is visible once it's in the hole. Then it's just a case of taking out the radio so you can get access to the space behind, undoing the two screws at the bottom of the centre console so you can swing the bottom out and access the back of the cigar lighter, plug in the harness, terminate the positive and negative ends of the harness, and feed them up to the socket. I discarded the third wire from the harness, as the Bluesea doesn't have a terminal for illumination, and also put some spiral wrap on the harness for good measure. Because it is wired to the cigar lighter, it now comes on when the ignition is in the accessory position or on, but is isolated when the ignition is off, though the parasitic drain is only supposed to be 1mA anyway. The socket comes with a fairly tight fitting cover which could be omitted, but I left it there to keep the carp out. The finished result, which is just what I wanted: Socket with the cover open: Socket with the cover closed:
  12. If you were willing to pay the Warn price then I'd probably pop £500 or so on a Goodwinch TDS9.5 and then add a synthetic rope - there's no such thing as too much winch, and it will be faster/cooler/more reliable whenever you use it. All electric winch ratings are based on essentially the same logic as me saying I can cart all my pies along on foot at 120mph by running off a cliff, it doesn't really work out in the real world and doesn't last that long. I would guess there are far more people out there who regret buying a small winch, than regret buying a large one https://goodwinch.com/product/goodwinch-tds-9-5c-9500-lbs-12v-or-24v/
  13. My old Milemarker is now on the third vehicle it's been fitted on (and it has been on the current 110 since I bought it new 16 years ago) the winch now must be over 20 years old I think. Only time it has ever missed a beat was once recovering a VERY stuck vehicle, it stalled and seemed to be short on pull, once I investigated the problem I realised that the polyvee belt on the pump had just stretched with age, a quick adjustment on the pump bracket and back to full power. Was thinking the other day it's looking a bit corroded, writing this I've just realised how old it now is! It's only got the PAS pump, slow but I use it far more for "moving things creatively" than for self-recovery, and when you're winching a badly-built farm garage back to vertical to put bracing in the timber frame so the doors actually shut (its last job a few days ago), being able to move the 'load' in increments of half an inch at a time using a wireless remote is just what you need. I really don't know what I'll replace it with when something eventually fails - I've got a TDS on the Puma but it's a different machine entirely, better for a quick pull out of a ditch, less useful for just about everything else. Been thinking about a PTO pump for the last 16 years, and I'll probably keep thinking about it
  14. I did the same on mine, the wires get chewed up with flying rocks here.
  15. I imported and fitted uprated Clutchfix clutches to all our vehicles - two 300Tdis and a 2.2 Puma - a couple of years ago. They were the ones sold as something like "20% stronger but still the same pedal effort". Although they work fine, all three now cause the gearboxes to rattle like hell when everything is warmed up - which they didn't when new and nor did the original clutches that came out - so there is obviously play somewhere. Now I don't know whether to worry about them failing (the whole point of fitting them was to be able to fit and forget for some time), change them and go back to standard, or just shrug and live with it in the hope it might be an 'undocumented feature' and hope that nothing goes bang when I'm in the middle of nowhere. None of them have done a lot of miles or had a lot of hard use.
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