Jump to content
If you value this forum's future please support us


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


BogMonster last won the day on January 24

BogMonster had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

59 Excellent

1 Follower

About BogMonster

  • Rank
    Old Hand

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    Third rock from the Antarctic - 51°41.8'S 57°50.5'W

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    Not interested.

Recent Profile Visitors

2,298 profile views
  1. Upgrade to Disco 3 TDV 6

    I knew somebody at the dealership who decided he was going to change a D3 engine without taking the body off, he did and said afterwards that next time he'd take the body off. There might have been some swearing in the previous statement in its original form!
  2. 2000 disco 2 locked out issue

    Won't help you if you have locked it, but back door issues are usually the flap inside the handle sticking, which you fix by taking out the Land Rover badge and pushing the flap back down again. Not 100% sure if the same trick works on a D2, it's a while since I have had to do it. If the vehicle is deadlocked then the CDL button inside won't work and neither will trying to open a door with the interior locking mechanism, because all those are isolated. Why don't you just open the door with the key, or are you going to tell me you don't have a key and/or the door lock is broken as well?
  3. Upgrade to Disco 3 TDV 6

    Welcome to the world of disposable vehicles. They are no longer made to be built, rebuilt, tinkered with and fettled. There's a reason it is cheap, and it's only a bargain if you can fix it....
  4. Got a Honda GX engine in the Flymo, starts 1st or 2nd pull after being in the garage for six months, can't beat them
  5. Are all 4HP-22 gearbox’s all the same?

    Pretty sure the shift points differ between V8 and diesel for example, different settings in the valve block inside. Talk to Dave Ashcroft, what he doesn't know about this sort of stuff I could write on the back of my ear.
  6. Lift kits - which make?

    Thanks all. The Britpart +2" kit is available locally and I was talking to somebody I know this evening and discovered he's had it on his 110 for about 3 years, no issues and is still pleased with it, so I think that's probably what I will get rather than wait a few months.
  7. Disco 2 alloy-wheel nut replacements?

    Rattle guns kill the alloy nuts even without any corrosion underneath, the caps get deformed and you then have a hell of a job to get the socket on (or off).
  8. Best recovery option?

    Dyneema doesn't whip like a wire rope, one thing I like about it. Trees are not so much of a problem round here
  9. Best recovery option?

    One thing I didn't add is that for me, being in charge of the recovery and using my own equipment is the important thing. The one thing I'd always try and avoid is somebody I didn't know either using their own equipment, or being in charge of the loud pedal on the towing vehicle. My rope, my rules, and everybody will come out alive I will use the winch, but it isn't always effective with a very stuck vehicle (moves them closer together but not in the right way). Tend to prefer that if there are dodgy looking recovery points on the other vehicle.
  10. The barn and shed thread

    That's a lovely job, some real old fashioned craftsmanship there.
  11. Nearly lost the Defender!!!

    Admittedly with advancing age I usually try not to get stuck these days rather than trying to get stuck, but it's the type I carry all the time and have used many times. Plough anchors are fine in hard ground but fairly useless in very soft peat as they can disappear almost completely! Even if you get out there is then a second recovery challenge.... The other thing is that the tube and pins are much easier to stow in the back of the vehicle, I have a false floor about 1.5" thick which the pins go under and the tube sits along the side. Unless you invent a way to carry it outside the vehicle, a plough anchor, even a folding one, takes up a huge amount of space, which is no good if you're travelling with stuff to get somewhere first. I'm about to modify my false floor concept for the new 110 so that all the recovery gear (jack, spade and towrope as well) can go under the floor, and still leave almost full load capacity in the back.
  12. Land Rover Puma TDCI 2010 Model No starting

    Confusing terms here. Did you carry out a compression test, or a fuel pressure test, and what exactly had no pressure? If the cylinders had no pressure (compression test) then yes I'd agree the engine is probably kaput and needs major surgery, next step is to take the cylinder head off and ascertain why and whether it is repair or replacement. If the fuel pressure is nil on the injectors for two cylinders (fuel pressure check) then that is an entirely different problem and with the fuel system, and could be either electrical or a problem with the pump or injectors.
  13. Best recovery option?

    Fair point but you can't fit a steering guard with a JATE ring. Each to their own but I like the armour and it has the scars to prove it was worthwhile I would never tow off an axle, damage to brake lines being one reason, the fact you can't usually reach it being another. Interestingly - and there will be those who argue - for many years I have simply used a heavily reinforced tow rope that can slip over the end of the front bumper and take a good tug without cutting. No, it doesn't come off, as long as you use the right end of the bumper for the direction of towing. Nor does the bumper, unless it's pretty damaged to start with. Given most boggings here are vehicles bellied out in soft peat with relatively little traction available to the tow vehicle, snatch recovery is more often than not the only way, so most people do it to some extent most of the time. You don't have to set off at Warp 9, and the magnitude of the tug can be measured to suit the situation. All my ropes are long and nylon.
  14. Lift kits - which make?

    Thanks. Any comments from anybody with any other types? Have discovered Britpart ones available locally, and am told there are no obvious issues, but I think I'm still wary.
  15. Lift kits - which make?

    I'm looking at lift kits for my Puma, to compensate for occasional loads/winch about to be fitted, and to provide clearance for large tyres. +2" all around is somewhere around where I want to be, with a winch and Brownchurch roof rack fitted all the time, usually 2 people plus a bit of stuff, sometimes 5 people, rarely is it loaded to the roof. Don't want super hard/heavy duty as the roads are rough, so probably light/medium load type. Looking at the options I wondered if there was much to choose between the manufacturers - e.g. on the First Four site there is a good selection Terrafirma https://www.firstfour.co.uk/medium-load-50mm-suspension-lift-kit-for-def110-130.html Bearmach/Pro Comp https://www.firstfour.co.uk/bearmach-pro-comp-defender-110-plus-2.html Britpart https://www.firstfour.co.uk/britpart-super-gaz-suspension-lift-kit-for-def-110-to-wa15980-plus-40mm.html Due to lots of use on gravel roads, my general preference is for dampers with a solid boot rather than the flexi boots which will get chewed up. Anybody got any views on the relative merits of the manufacturers? Out of the F4 options, I was probably leaning towards the Terrafirma one, but I don't want saggy springs in a couple of years and I've no idea what any of them are like. Also would want something that uses standard readily available bushes on the dampers. Also looking at local suppliers to see what is available here and now so might ask for views on other options depending on what is available. My existing Tdi 110 has genuine parts all round, with a set of spring spacers under the rear springs, and 90 rear springs on the front (same as on a 130) and sits nicely, so that is the other option, the only downside is that the rear dampers top out a bit when you are pressing on over rough ground.