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BogMonster

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BogMonster last won the day on November 12

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About BogMonster

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    http://www.Idonthaveawebsiteurl.com

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    Third rock from the Antarctic - 51°41.8'S 57°50.5'W

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  1. BogMonster

    castor alloy wheels

    Probably a combination where it would be better to be sure then!
  2. BogMonster

    Anti roll bars and suspension lifts

    Ta, I might look at dropping the mounts as you suggest. It's got quite a choppy ride off road compared to the Tdi, so in the longer term they may come off completely, but at the moment the 300 does the brunt of the proper off road work. CD, no, I am doing it primarily for clearance with big tyres plus a bit of extra ground clearance. When I started driving Land Rovers in the mid 80s there were no roads at all in this country, not where I was growing up, so over the years I've pretty much figured out what I want out of a vehicle off road, which is why they both ended up looking more or less the same. Just that these new fangled things like anti roll bars are a new problem
  3. BogMonster

    castor alloy wheels

    On the flip side (and accepting the questionable legalities in the UK) I know somebody here who ran them for a while on a 110 with no problems, and I run the Tornado alloys on mine sometimes (tips the scales at 2400kg unladen) and have had no problems either. I'm not sure that the exact weight rating is actually known to anybody, they just aren't recommended for a 110 because they have never been sold on a 110 from the factory. Some of the aftermarket copies of the Tornado alloy are certainly sold as being suitable for a 110. What you can say is that they are suitable for a Discovery Tdi which has a GVW of something like 2720kg i.e. only 300kg short of a standard 110SW, and if one is worried that a wheel is going to break for the sake of another 150kg on it, then it probably shouldn't be fitted to either, so I have never bothered too much about it.
  4. BogMonster

    2007 exMOD 90 Strange noise under the bonnet!!

    It's normal, it is the turbo modulator and/or EGR doing its shutdown cycle. Mine does the same (though it is a 2015 2.2). Can be a bit squeaky at times, mine was a bit loud when I bought it but has quietened down recently.
  5. BogMonster

    castor alloy wheels

    Pretty sure the answer is no, and the only weight rated wheels are Boosts and the Deep Dish alloys which were fitted to 110s in about 97/98 sort of time as part of the Freestyle Choice pack for the 110. I have personally imported vehicles with this option so the Deep Dish are/were definitely factory approved. None of the alloys are approved for a 130 rear axle though, or the HD 110 which has a GVW of 3500kg.
  6. My new Puma has anti-roll bars front and rear, as fitted standard to the last vehicles. I'm in two mind about whether to keep them or not, as I think they make the ride a bit choppy off-road, but they make a huge difference to the stability on-road. I'm also thinking about a suspension lift of ~ 2" probably via fitting a lift kit, though I may do what I did on my Tdi and fit 90 rear springs on the front, and spring lifter spacers on the back. I've heard vague stories here of lifted vehicles turning the ARB ball joints inside-out which locks the suspension up solid, but I am unsure what level of lift makes this become a risk, and whether it's only in specific situations e.g. fitting a full lift kit with extended shocks. Can anybody shed any light on this problem, specifically: 1) whether it's likely with a 2" lift 2) whether it happens with std shocks or only with extended ones To my mind, standard shocks will only allow the standard amount of suspension travel so while the vehicle may sit a bit higher, it shouldn't really change anything to make the ARBs have problems.
  7. BogMonster

    Paint a winch drum ... or not?

    Decision made, so I have just painted it with some spray black and will see what happens.
  8. BogMonster

    Thoughts and musings on the new defender

    Many of those are exactly the sort of things we see here in the Falklands but Land Cruisers are also far from impervious to fatigue (or any other) failures
  9. The other day I ran all the rope off my 14 year old Milemarker drum for the first time for quite a while, to spool it back on under tension and tidy it up, following a couple of days of off road use including several winch recoveries. I was quite shocked by the amount of deep corrosion on the drum - really heavy rust about 1-2mm thick. I've just chiselled it all off (enough rust flakes to fill a dinner plate) and I have coated the drum with Kurust, with possibly another coat to follow, but I'm wondering what to finish it with. Maritime wisdom suggests that you shouldn't paint drums on winches because the paint layer itself can be a weakness, but if I don't then the drum will do the same again, and the usual solution on a boat is to plaster everything with axle grease, which isn't going to work well with Dyneema Two questions: has anybody seen a winch drum actually fail with serious corrosion (and if so how bad does it need to be), and secondly, any thoughts about whether to paint it and what with? I'm thinking about just a thin coat of spray primer over the Kurusted layer, and then a thin top coat of spray paint, just to keep the moisture out. The root cause I think is that the synthetic rope tends to hold moisture against the drum, which I suppose is inevitable - I probably should take it off once in a while and dry it, but realistically I probably can't be bothered!
  10. BogMonster

    Improving Defender ride quality

    Land Rover tyre pressures are mostly carp in my opinion. I've never run any vehicle of mine with over 40psi in the tyres, and my 110 at the moment is running about 25 front 30 rear, admittedly in oversize 33x12.50R15. and at lower than UK road speeds. Hard tyre pressures give a dreadful ride for the same reason low profile tyres do; the tyres have a critical role in ironing out the minor jiggles in the road, and if you remove the 'give' in the sidewall then you pay the price.
  11. BogMonster

    Defender handbrake recall - years ago

    Not those, but thanks. I can't find any trace of it, which is really weird. Not sure if it was a recall, service action, special service message or what, but I remember it. Still looking, so any further input welcome....
  12. BogMonster

    Improving Defender ride quality

    That much air in the tyres will give a miserably hard ride IMHO
  13. This may be a long shot.... Many years ago there was a recall action or service action on the Defender handbrakes, which was something along the lines of the handbrake mechanism applying normally, but then under load, a part could move inside the mechanism, causing the handbrake to release (it could then be applied properly with another click or two). It was probably ten years ago, and I can't find it. The solution was something like changing a bolt in the mechanism for a different type. Mrs BM's 110 is doing it, and it's quite dangerous because she can't haul the handbrake on too hard (she can't get it off again) and if you put it on 'normally' then it is prone to the mechanism moving inside the handbrake causing the vehicle to roll. I know there was a problem, and I know LR published a bulletin with a solution, but so far I have not been able to find it. Does anybody on here know anything about it / have a copy? Ideally I want the bulletin, as that would have had both parts required and repair instructions.
  14. BogMonster

    Thoughts and musings on the new defender

    Actually I will quite likely buy it if they get it right. The odds of that happening aren't that good, based on the last few ideas rolled out of how to 'upgrade' a previously successful model, but I am both genuinely interested in how it turns out, and in a position to consider buying it.
  15. BogMonster

    Opinions and experience of radiators

    Having had the plastic-tanked radiator in my D2 fail, and knowing of dozens of others with the same disease, I wouldn't touch anything with plastic in it. Over the years I have had a couple of rad cores from Bearmach which were not a bad price and were very solid, even had the proper metal bung in rather than the crappy plastic ones.
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