BogMonster

Phenolic ply is OK for anything which isn't likely to damage the surface of the board but it gets ripped up easily. I've had an Ifor GD85 which still has the original floor (now about 10 years old I guess) but with quite a lot of superficial damage from carting rock and sharp things - no sign of it going soft though so the original material must be pretty decent. Using a digger or anything really requires a metal floor, which is what the 12' TT3621 tipper has, the downside of metal is that it is much more slippy for hard loads.

Doesn't work now on mine, regardless of what compatibility settings you use. Very annoying.

The biggest pain with Milemarkers is that there is no support in the UK now. I've never needed anything (15 years and counting, only issue I've ever had was the belt to the pump stretching with age and slipping) but if anything went significantly wrong it would basically not be worth trying to fix and I'd probably get another Goodwinch TDS9.5. Upsides of the MIlemarker are that it'll shift a house and shift it all day long. Downsides are that you'll need all day to shift it, with a low gear line speed of about 2m/min, unless you go for a full PTO system, and then you can't drive-assist. T

Thanks. Yeah I ended up finding they were an AB606... number so I bought some #6 stainless ones and refitted it with those. I thought the centre row screws were self-tappers too but I now find there is something on the bottom of them that spins so I gave up and decided I couldn't be bothered!

In the back of the 110 there is a metal strip across the bottom of the door aperture which retains the rubber floor mat at the back, held in by 7 screws. In the second row there is a similar arrangement to retain the rubber mat on either side except it's held in across the bottom of the door aperture by 3 much larger screws on each side. I need to identify a number for the screws but am being told the parts manual says these plates are riveted on. They aren't and never have been. Anybody got a parts diagram/numbers for these 2 different sorts of screws please? Thanks.

I guess charge what the market will stand, somebody doing a concours job on a Series 1 is probably happy to pay whatever to get the right tyres on it. Coming soon, 9.00-16 bar grips for extra fun on a wet roundabout!

Nope, still made albeit in limited form! https://www.avontyres.com/en-gb/classic-tyres/traction-mileage/ Though why anybody would want to pay nearly £200 for a 6.00x16 crossply that was awful 30 years ago is one to ponder....

**** I only paid half that for my ROW 2006 300Tdi when it was brand new!

Don't they just

Common problem, leaks around the windscreen and elsewhere, the BECM will be wrecked and green and furry inside. I think it'll be replace rather than repair...

A 2 speed hand winch off a boat trailer if it is a one-off or occasional requirement. If you might want to do it a lot I would look into a 12 volt ATV winch. The main thing I would be aware of is the possibility of it departing with haste if anything broke, so somebody on standby with something to wedge under the wheels would be sensible!

It was a crisp -3.9 here in the early hours, and now a refreshing 1.1

At this point in a vehicle's life you find out why metal is better for things that are hot and vibrating all the time (ooer)

You may be right - fortunately the law here is rather more flexible - though I'm surprised that messing with a safety system like brakes doesn't void type approvals, you are after all putting a smaller set of brakes on a faster car which if it met the standards would surely have been done in the first place if only to save money...

Well I disagree on the first bit and still think parts commonality is a thing to aspire to, but it obviously makes any mod that involves butchering the brakes - or swapping them for ones off a different model - enough to massively void any type approval in any 1st world country! However fly by wire indirect brakes scare me a lot more, if that's also really a thing