callum
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Posts posted by callum
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you sure about th price of the southdown, i priced one up on the website and it looked around £300 including the drop plate bit. that was for a 110 mind.
regarding the safari equip one, i think its well over £200 for the scorpion 'version' and £80 for the drop plate bit !! that seems a pretty good price from safari equip.
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anyone know how the factory fridges fitted in the centre consoles of some japanese import landcruiser 80 series work.
I have seen allegations in some ebay ads that they make ice cubes as well, but i cant say i've ever seen one in the flesh.
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the temp extremes there just blow me away.
Damn near as hot as here in Summer and five times colder in winter.
........and here I was shivering and wingeing my ar$e off in -6* this morning
i sorted out some rear vents the other weekend. i bought a big aluminium door vent like the stainless ones posted above for a few quid and cut it up to fit the space. i dont know if they'll let in water like the land rover ones, but they're easy to keep an eye on. they work pretty well and mean my car heats up now and i can also get cold air blowing from the vents for the first time as well. the latter isn't too well tested yet as we dont tend to get blistering temperatures here and i've got sliding front windows so tend to drive with my arm out the window unless at motorway speeds.
some tutu fabric keeps bugs out and i'm sure you could sort out means of closing them easily enough, although given they help in both hot and cold conditions there hasn't been any need. maybe when stopped it would be nice to shut them off i suppose.
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The series one won't fit, there's one on ebay right now...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-MILITARY-...1QQcmdZViewItem
yup, that's the type i have on the passenger's side
not sure if the part no.s i posted correspond to that or not. the ebay one is either expensive or i've got the
he wrong part numbers.
anyone able to tell me what the dongle work around for microcat is? i have the version which was linked on here and rmembered to put the date back to november 2004, but i cat remember how to sort the dongle issue and am unable to find the original post with the link.
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Tell you what Luddites; vote with your feet and do not buy a new Defender. That will have Landrover worried, how many of you were planning, seriously, to buy a new Defender last week, before you saw the revisions? I thought so.
Now, wonder how many people have seen the forward facing seats, 20th century dash, 6-speed box, working heater and other refinements and are considering buying one next year. People who would not have considered such an agricultural machine previously.
I have said it before and I will repeat it; Landrover do not give a flying monkey's gonads what you guys think. They care not if you will want to buy one when they are 10 years old and maintain it with County pattern parts. What is in it for them? They need to sell and maintain new units.
Landrover have not made these changes just to keep the designers and engineers occupied, they have made them because their market research says that is what people want to buy. I understand that Defender is a net money looser anyway - the cost of labour intensuve production exceeding the cost of automated RR production - they only keep the Defender on because they are such a good advertising tool. I suppose that this means that they are not in a position to offer more expensive, more powerful engines, super strong transmissions, galvanised chassis etc. as the price will skyrocket and loose even more money as the price of a car has to be competetive and therefor is more or less fixed.
If, as some of you are suggesting, the competition is so much better, go buy one.
[/rant]
Chris
i can understand what you are saying, progress must be made and a modern interior is a good step forward, even if they forgot to update around the steering column and still use 1970's stalks.
I think you ignore the part reputation plays though. As with a lot of british products, it is traded on reputation and does very well trading on that. i should imagine many of the sales of defender are based on what the brand has acheived and stood for in the past. assisting this currently are those who make use of thier vehicles in more extremem situations, winning motorsport events.
I would therefore suggest that enthusiasts are crucial to the reputation and therefore success of land rover and that in the eyes of land rover they really should matter. otherwise they will jump brand and one of the greatest adverts the company has, let us not forget the effeect this would have on the whole land rover range, will be gone.
You can only trade on a reputation for so long before people see through the carp and head elsewhere. A car with little merit, which is seen as having little merit is not so attractive as a one that at least appears to have merit.
A car that lasts forever is bad for business and perhaps a peak of durability has been reached. i think land rover has, to an extent shot itself in the foot.
time will tel if it was wearing steel toecaps.
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could do with a bit of help from folks using sliding door tops.
I'm having trouble with the locking mechanism on the passenger side door, namely that it doesn't lock.
i therefore took the lock out to try and see if i could fix it. I had previously 'fixed' it by adding a washer into the mechanism as so it lifted up higher when it locked and fixing it this time thought i'd increase the height it lifts to again.
the result of this was the part which lifts the lock came off inside the door....drill out, lock off again, washer and bolt added to make sure this is not possible anymore. all reassembled and it doesn't pop off.
but it still doesn't lock properly and its still possible to slide the front part of the window despite it being locked.
Normally i would attribute this to a carp land rover design, but my drivers door lock (which uses the earlier 110 wheel to lock rather than the military style knob) works perfectly.
i could just buy a new lock i think, craddocks list the parts as
MTC6304 WINDOW LOCK CONTROL KNOB EARLY 110. £1.82
RRC4879 WINDOW CATCH 110 LH 1983/4 ONLY. £ 5.32
i'm not sure if they're correct as they seem suspiciously cheap.
i do however wonder if the lock is the problem though. i presumed the locks worked by friction, but maybe that's not the case. perhaps the problem lies elsewhere.
thanks for your help
callum
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Ah yeah but the nissan ones are as strong as the land rover toughened ones, and don't forget you can break the land rover stonger ones. And the nissan axle is rated for a heavyer truck than the land rover. So all in all it is a better option for a land rover
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/...pic.php?t=30881
if nissan owners are looking to upgrade to longfields and if treated lr cv's from either longfield or ashcrofts live up to their claim of being about as strong as toyota longs, surely that can't be the case? otherwise a lot of wasted effort?
i don't doubt that nissan axles have their advantages, but i'm not sure it lies with cv's
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http://i13.ebayimg.com/03/i/07/f0/dd/f0_1.JPG
a current offering from craddocks.
have been considering one for a while, but by luck or good judgement have not destroyed any steering components...yet. as i need a new spedo cable, now is the time to get a steering guard as well to get free postage
my preference had been to get a standard land rover tubular effort and get the welder out on it. Reason being, a lot of the standard steel guards i see are stoved in and i wonder if they cause as much trouble as they prevent. My major concern is the drop arm, i'm happy to let the rest of the componentry fend for itself.
alas as i cant seem to find one like that anymore, this one seems reasonably substantial . unfortunately i cant find any info on its construction or better photos.
was gonan be hasty and order to try and get it for the weekend, but ithin i've missed that postage deadline so am happy to hang on and receive folk's thoughts on the matter.
cheers
callum
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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread....56697&pp=25
some info/pics of haultech slotted bushes.
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if you could still search on pirate you'd find a reasonable thread about uaz protals with some piccies.
if i recall corectly i think there was some sort of flaw or at least not very good part about the design. It could be my hazy memory or it could have been some pirate folks needlessly bleating.
i should expect with a little time and google you could find it, or you could go get a yellow star.
sorry that wasn't much help.
here's some links,
none quite as long as i recall, but nevermind
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread....tal+axle+thread general info
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread....tal+alternative uaz stuff not very long though.
quick skim read revealed no ne talking about a big flaw, so i must have remembered incorrectly.
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My 4BD1-T engine has a manual stop lever on the injection pump.
I was in a yacht race to Lord Howe Island one time, with very bad weather and big seas.
With the mainsail fully reefed and a storm jib, we were still overpowered and the boat was sailing on her ear.
The Volvo auxiliary diesel was started to charge the battery (needed for navigation lights, instruments and communications). But could not be shut down as it continued to run on engine oil from the crankcase and the govenor in the fuel pump could not prevent it overspeeding.
Eventually the flywheel came off and stalled the engine.
could they not just have cut off its air supply
i remember in one of the scrapheap challenges that after some enthusiastic tuning of a truck diesel engine it started revving towards destruction. most of the team downed tools and ran for it apart from one brave soul who suffocated the engine with, i think, a towel.
my isuzu diesel is a bit reluctant to stop when its really low, as in 5l or less in the tank, on fuel. on the few occasions it has happened i just stalled it.
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You can buy flexi Samco hosing in (I think) 1m lengths, Halfrauds do indeed sell flexi bits that are half decent although they ain't cheap. Failing that hydraulics places have some weird and wonderful hoses, I got some looong flexi for my snorkel from one.
Another option if you're going a long way is to use small rubber hose bends (cut from standard hoses is probably the cheapest way) and then make the rest from straight metal pipe.
got a halfrauds one up top, although the coil sure ain't stainless as it got corroded on the surface pretty quick. alas they dont have any of a big enough diameter and long enough.
might have been the samco hose i saw. any idea of the best place to get such hoses. they are a bit spendy so i'd like to save money where possible.
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does anyone know of an aftermarket flexible radiator hose that is sold in a decent length?
i found some ages ago after hitting halfords to see what they had (and surprise surprise failing miserably) i looked up the name on the internet, followed some lines of enquiry and eventually found some stuff that was advertised as being able to be tied in knots as it was so flexible. it had steel (coil) reinforcement in the walls, not exposed at all and i seem to remember it being pictured in bright red or blue, so it could have been silicone.
needless to say that when i now need it i cant find the stuff. i searched the internet for over an hour, but turned up little. i found some interesting flexible metal hose from the usa, but its not really what i want in this instance. i'm sure it was advertised in an online rally shop, but i failed to find it.
does such a thing exist or am i losing it?
i need about 70-80 cm of the stuff.
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IIRC from my old sparex catalogue, they use orange as their company colour......
www.northerntool.com, look at towing for all sorts of wierd and wonderful looking hitches
unfortunatley that's the usa site, the uk site has no such stuff, nor does the canadian site.
also they're all 2" and not 54mm or whatever the metric equivalent is.
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Not any more
Just before my Dad was out there (about nine years ago) they had riots in Venezuela when the petrol price doubled to 8p/l. That was sickening even then...
as of 2004, venezuelan fule cast $0.023 (yes less than 3 cents) a litre and was actually sold at a loss to the public.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/business/3693237.stm
not sure of the situation now though.
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North offroad make them out of 5mm
with the option to fit a winch of your choice should you so desire.
if I ever change mine thats where I'll go for one.
any idea what sort of premium these attract.
paddocks are £115 for standard fare, which is quite good, could maybe go to a bit more for 5mm one.
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at the back of my landie i currently have something not dissimilar to this...
http://carl-fh.net/photo/pics/images/4253.JPG
whilst it makes for a good plough off road (as well as tow hitch on road), i'd rather not have it dragging in the dirt all the time, although in fairness it hasn't ever properly caused to to be hung up on something.
i could remove it but i tow stuff occasionally so a removable hitch seems like a good idea.
good as the southdown tank gaurd/hitches seem, they're somewhat beyond my means.
receiver hitches seem like a good compromise though.
i've come across a few designs...
http://www.pangolin4x4.com/pangolin4x4/pro...es/hitches.html
seems pretty cool, no loss of ground clearance. but will require a fair drop for a normal tow ball and may put a lot of twisting force on the crossmember?
this one...
http://www.safarigard.com/Graham%20Jackson...%20TDI%2008.JPG
causes a little ground clearance loss, but that's cool and would allow me to finally reattach my nato tow hitch
and the final popular choice (muahahahaha)
http://www.scorpionracing.co.uk/OFFROAD/Pr...w/qdtowbar4.jpg
sorry its included only as another example, but i'm led to believe it costs around the £1 squillion mark so is not really what i'm after.
final clicky link is
http://www.northerntool.com/images/product...es/12890_lg.jpg i would presumably require one of these also to lower the tow ball to appropriate height.
so has anyone any experience of any of these? are they strong enough for towing large weights like boats and cars on trailers?
are the available in the uk? or really viable in the uk? i've no idea where i'd get the drop plate from in the uk and i imagine they are a shade heavy to consider importing.
i'd be grateful for any opinions, especially since the pirate search function is down and i cant research there.
cheers
callum
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it is legal to keep a co2 fire extinguisher in one's home is it not?
co2 is co2 is co2. i dont think it matters what you use it for, especially as you are free to discharge it straight into the atmosphere and in an enclosed space when your kitchen goes on fire.
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Ultimate for my needs is an engine that will last a lifetime
well i think you should get a jap diesel then. most of the old faithfuls will do 500k miles easy. you're not going to get that out of a landie engine, especially not a bored out and tuned one.
look towards light japanese trucks over 3 litres and give consideration to what will be immediately behind it.
4 or 6 cyl...dont really know.
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How much is a TGV? £3.5k?
How much is an Isuzu 2.8TD? £300?
Guess which I'd go for if it had to be a diesel...
Frankly, I'd stick with teh V8 if it's a plaything. If a daily driver, get the Isuzu engine. Uncle Jez is the resident expert.
or indeed £100 for a rustbucket carcass that drove from near inverness to near berwick upon tweed in a day. the trooper speedo was at 273000 miles and its engine is now doing sterling service in my 110 and the carcass in a scrap heap somewhere. although all the electrics still worked perfectly, with rust its only killer.
can get quite a few 4jb1's for the price of the tgv, although you'd probably not need em. allisport run a 4jb1 in their racer.
given the choice i'd prefer a bigger isuzu engine though 4.4 from a light truck although it might be a bit heavy for your needs.
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¿Habla Espanol?
there's lots of good piccies here or rear steer mog axled rangie running 44's.
http://www.mda4x4.com/preparaciones.htm
which i presume was their testbed for thier own 4x4. you might consider it a sort of bowler on steroids, although i'm not sure it has many landie parts in the final model.
http://www.mda4x4.com/8250.htm
there's some videos down the bottom of it crabbing and turning tight circles and driving over huge boulders etc.
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As Ralph says, it should be 100% aspect ratio, so 9" wide, but also each sidewall is (in theory) 9" high.
Richard
after years of just reading, thought i'd finally register and start things off with a nerdy post.
i'm led to believe imperial sizing is infact 92% of width, but i cant remember the sources of such info.
and those tyres pictured ar not 9.00's, but 255/100r16's as denoted by the split in the middle block of tread (allegedly introduced as older xcl's had a tendency to split down the single middle block) although you can probably read it on the side.
mighty fine tyres as you may have ascertained from the e-e website waxing lyrical about them.
i'd add a piccy of them on a 110, but i dont think you can attach files on this forum.
if you're considering using them they're super heavy and can make braking interesting and will doubtless destroy stock drivetrain unless you're street cruising. you probably wont be able to burst them off road too easily though.
as i cant post any landie pics, here's some cruisers wearing them
http://www.desert-tec.de/desert1.jpg
http://www.desert-tec.de/desert3.jpg that one has 9.00's not 255/100's
how squeezable is silicone hose?
in International Forum
Posted
after an annoyingly long time sent making up little brackets and cutting holes, i've got a big saab intercooler sitting infront of my radiator and need to see about plumbing it in.
i need to change pipe/hose size through 90 degrees between intercooler and pipes. intercooler is 57mm outside diameter and pipe is 54 mm diameter. Am i likely to be able to squeeze 54mm internal diameter silicone hose onto the 57mm intercooler ends or squeeze 57mm internal diameter hose onto the 54mm pipe?
I would reckon on being able to do this with rubber heater hose, but i've never handled silicone hose, so i dont realy know how flexible it is. My preference would be to use a rubber 90 degree bend as its cheap
, but i can only find either 50 or 60mm internal diameter and i think that's going to be too much of a stretch.