ajh
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Posts posted by ajh
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Anyone done a refinishing on the 300 (or 200) rubber acoustic engine cover? I am thinking plastidip spray might work but hearing of others experience before I commit to anything would be great.
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I'm pretty sure I figured it out. V8 manual Disco are rarer here than forward control FFRs, (I know of 2 or 3), it turns out the previous owner didn't know the fork required a retention clip (571163) so it was held in place only by the plastic cup and hope... Something must have shifted allowing the behaviour, but I still can't really figure out what was actually happening... it's mostly back together now and seems to be working. if it happens again I'm boring a scope port and figuring out exactly what's going on. Thanks for all the input/ideas.
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So, the only thing I can come up with is a stuck release bearing that came loose during dismantle and therefore looks fine now.
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I thought of that, and will try with more force in the morning, it just looks perfect and springs back as expected... No clue how it would do that, also... That would not explain the slack pushrod.
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I have just found the strangest problem I've ever run into. Vehicle is a D1 that was a V8 converted to a 200TDI mated to an R380 and LT230. It was working fine; then one day when the clutch was depressed there was a sound like a spring being released from pressure. This resulted in loss of all drive. I removed the slave cylinder and the pushrod moved freely as if there was no clutch present at all.
Normally you'd thing something like the centre has torn out of the friction plate or the basket has failed... not needing it right away it sat for a while and I finally got around to opening it up today and nothing.. every single part of the clutch looks perfectly good. The entire setup probably has fewer than 10,000km on it, so it should look like new and it does. The friction plate is fine, the shock springs are good... the clutch basket fingers have slight wear but nothing that would explain a failure... and the only possible failure mode I can come up with is the clutch basket somehow getting 'stuck in the released position, but I'm not sure I've ever heard of that happening with this design.
The transmission input shaft when turned manually results in movement at the LT230 output flanges, so that seems good.
The only different thing is this has a cast clutch fork and the slipper pad area does seem to be a slightly different size than the pressed fork type... I can only imagine the issue was somehow related to this... does anyone know if I can just swap in a standard pressed fork instead with the removable slipper pads (I would need to replace the pushrod with one without the pin on the round end or at least grind it off, but is there anything else to consider when doing this?
Ideas?
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Does anyone know of a repository of DXF files of common and easy to make parts? Right now I'm looking for 300TDI 110 CSW floor panels, if I don't find one I'll setup a git repository to allow others to check out and modify them to need and re-submit so others can use the same. Over here in Canada things like floor panels regardless of what they cost to purchase, cost hundreds to ship... cutting the same locally is under half the cost even on a one-off, when doing many it gets pretty cheap.
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23 hours ago, Red90 said:
Just take a hubs (and spindle) from any old Rover. Easy to find a Disco at the junkyard or just buy new.
That is one of my options as mentioned, however that also makes getting TC/DOT approval something I need to think about. and if my plan is low volume that may not be a reasonable approach. Having hubs I can just put onto an existing axle probably doesn't help much, except if they already have type approval there/CE it would probably moot the issue in the end. This and the desire to only have to ship the hubs; whole axles would be expensive, hubs alone not too bad if I include them in my sea LCL shipments.
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In the long run I would machine flanges that match the Rover axle end and just use stubs and hubs on a 3" axle tube. As long as I am doing one-offs and they are registered as homebuilt no big deal, but if I want to do many then I need something I can get approved, and Spacers will not do.
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Fired them off an email, hopefully theirs are both compatible with the axle stubs here and ot excessively expensive.
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No idea, they are not sold here. Sankey are for sure but I want freewheeling hubs, not braked.
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Does anyone know where I can get trailer hubs in 5 on 6.5 (Defender/RRC/D1) bolt pattern? Hopefully later I will also need the new D2 pattern if that is out there. I would prefer not to have to ship entire axle assemblies if I can get hubs that will fit to the axles available locally.
My other option is to fabricate new ones with flanges that will allow the use of LR stubs and hubs, but that isn't ideal at this point.
Thanks for any information.
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Upon second inspection, it looks like the change is actually on the inboard side of the panel and will just force a bit of trimming.
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Did the Defender rear tub change shape at some point? I have a set of replacement rear panels sold by a well known aftermarket company and they really don't fit, they're not long enough and the curve of the side panel is entirely in the wrong place. The vehicle in question is a 1999 300TDI 90.
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One question though. Always used polys in the past.. with using the oe style one side of the tube sticks out more than the other, is this the inboard or outboard side? I assume inboard to allow more flex, but welcome correction.
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21 hours ago, hurbie said:
is it possible to measure the hole and bushing with calipers , to see if they match ?
Not anymore. I suspect I removed about 1 to 1.5mm and they were still a tight fit, enough that I need to prep and repaint before installing tomorrow. I don't have anything precise enough at the moment, but the fact they don't seem perfectly round makes that harder too.
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I suspect they only ever fit polys, but this is a long travel setup and rubber is more suitable. They are clearly not even bored after welding as they don't even seem round when you look closely. The fact they are painted on the bushing surface would also contribute to the idea they never considered someone might want to install normal bushings. Machining a purpose build press die would probably also help.
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If anyone cares, the arms are not made to spec... it took quite a bit of time with a drum sander to get things fitting.
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One bushing deformed. 7 more chances to press in 4. Even 20 tonnes was insufficient.
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This is the new style arms, two halves centre welded vs I-beam like the old style.
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Has anyone had experience/issues pressing Allmakes metalastic axle end bushings into Terrafima Defender 3deg radius arms? Just looking it seems like the bushings are larger than the opening provided. After several press attempts I want to make sure I don't need to bore them out, I never thought of the bushing collar as something that would compress very much.
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and honestly, all they needed to do was stamp a small arrow on the top.
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Thanks, you'd think they would at least include a link to those instructions in the box. Didn't even know they had those available; Google didn't pull up anything on them. I was pretty sure they were correct, but wanted to be 100% sure.
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Anyone able to confirm that when installing the TF522 skeleton shock towers that the vertical portion is forward facing and the slanted portion rear facing? Just about to epoxy spray the assembly and having to take it apart later isn't in the cards, and they're being slow at responding.
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On 11/25/2018 at 3:36 PM, RedLineMike said:
im aware that those "cheese Grater" chassis have a reputation for cracking, given the work involved to build them im on the fence if they are worth it
Indeed, when poorly placed or incorrectly flared they're not great. My plan was to actually do just the sides then probably put something over the holes and leave the top and bottom intact, but that also assumes the chassis is a basic one. Once you have an integrated safety cell/cage as well the rigidity goes way, way, up and the flex dynamics change entirely. Still, need to finish the first D2 Tomcat before I can look at making one lighter.
TDI engine cover refinish
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