ajh
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Posts posted by ajh
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Can anyone give me some guidance (or photos) on how FHF000020 is supposed to be fitted to the console fascia?
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Thanks Simon, that was one of the things I was thinking but unsure of. Hopefully I can source black oxide 8.8 as easily; I'm hoping this engine lasts long-term
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Yeah, I was considering putting thread inserts into all the cast alloy parts. Stop the corrosion right at the source; then they shouldn't seize in place.
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Other than the obvious ones (head bolts, etc) is there any reason to stick with the flange-head bolts as provided by Land Rover when rebuilding an engine? (300TDI) I was hoping to fit the more available (and cheaper) 10.9 hex bolts that I can purchase in bulk locally and just have them milspec (QQ-P-416-F) plated and chromate passivated by the box.
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Does any know what the two port-locations on the 300TDI intake were originally intended for? There's the threaded one; and one just below the intake port that has not yet been drilled but looks like the flange for the turbo oil drain.
I'm guessing pressure and temperature sensors; but wondering if they were ever actually used by LR.
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No crazy lift, but it had to come up about 2in on the axle end to flatten it out. The discussion and a night of actual sleep has me thinking there is an easier way that'll also fix another issue, I'd been planning on switching to a D1 HD steering rod at some point because of repeated issues with the Defender style ball joint on the arm.. I'm coming to think my arm is worn on the inside though...
So, I looked and I should get the required drop if I took the ball joint out of my Defender arm, welded it up, then machined it out to take a standard top-end ball joint as fitted to all the other solid axle models except bolted it upwards through the arm instead of down from the top.
The panhard bracket mod fixed the wind and snow type issues, but the wandering I've since discovered (after doing maintenance on EVERYTHING ELSE) is the ball joint on the arm... it felt good, looked good, but then something shifted and now it's clunking and wandering.
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Yeah, the plunger is badly scored... getting low pressure warnings at idle sometimes but otherwise everything seems correct.
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Mostly I'm trying out things to see how much of an effect they have. I'm considering setting up a set of D2 axles for it, and want to fabricate all the brackets in the right place from the start. (my D2 is being parted but has lockers etc).
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Indeed, the panhard bracket is just shy of the bumpstops at full level now but the effect has been great. The main drive west out of Ottawa to where my place is regularly gets high cross winds (40-70kph) and it no longer gets pushed around at all which is great.
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Yeah, but just the plunger isn't available anymore.
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Yes, I'm sure. Sounds like raising the arm on the swivel is the way to go. Will have to look at the best way to do this. Lowering the other end just results in issues with steering guards etc.
Thanks.
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I'm now told that ETC4880 is NLA.
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Or, does anyone know if the splines on the Adwest box shaft are a standard, would any of the other drop-arms out there work? Things like on; http://www.jackit.com/handling/steering-and-accessories/steering-info.html
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I've extended my panhard rod bracket up so that the rod is now completely parallel with the axle housing which is great, no more getting blown around by the wind and so much more stable on the highway. However as you know this makes the steering rod and panhard rod different lengths and on different angles which I'd also like to fix. Is there a 'standard' way to do this? Is it better to fabricate a bent rod, modify the swivel or the drop arm?
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Which swivel pin would people say is the most durable? I have the option of fitting the Railko bushings (which I suspect I don't want to do again), the pins that use the same bearing top and bottom, or the later smaller bearing. I'm suspecting the one where they're the same top and bottom is the better design, seems stronger...
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There is always the chance that is the case, it was too long originally, the 'sweet spot' seems to be exceptionally small, I'll keep adjusting it out to see if the issue goes away. Despite searching for a very long time on brake issues, this one was not mentioned, anywhere. Thanks.
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What misconfiguration do you believe would cause internal bypassing? Two were OE rebuilt, one was TRW, all the non-cast version. I'm certainly perplexed, I've never had something like this happen before.
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I need to do a re-wire so I've been looking for alternative fuse/relay solutions and came across the Cooper Bussmann 15404-2-0-1-0A and 15303-2-2-4 both of which look almost perfect. Ideally I'd like something in-between, say 5 relays and 20 fuse circuits but I suppose either going central and having lots of extra capacity or splitting into primary and aux panels is fine too.
Does anyone have experience with these panels? Suggestions? I'm also hoping to find a good bulkhead passthrough that'll fit in one of the upper openings in the bulkhead as I really prefer everything be accessible vs down behind the head.
They seem to be the only really waterproof option I've come across as well and one that doesn't require all kinds of extra termination to fit.
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I have a 1992 110 set-up with a double diaphragm booster from a D1 and I'm getting fluid leaking past the seals in the master. I've tried 3 different masters, 2 freshly rebuilt and 1 brand new and they all exhibit the same behaviour. Has anyone run into this or know what 'spec' master I should be looking for? I suspect anyone going to higher PSI systems (hydroboost etc) use something more robust, ideally something with a stainless liner and endlessly rebuildable.
Thanks.,
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My plan is to rebuild mine, but I do need to run something in the meanwhile... if I can find another 200 cheap enough that's fine, but I doubt I can finish a rebuild in a weekend.
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There are however better TD5 manifolds that solve that issue, and they do burn significantly cleaner and can generate much better power.
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It is the original 1992 Defender 200TDI. As for time, I don't expect it to take more than a weekend to swap in.. and I've put a Disco 200TDI into a LHD coil chassis and fit the intercooler, which involves a lot of items occupying the same space)... the reasoning is I can buy at least 2 300TDIs complete for the cost of one 200TDI, and generally with lower mileage. I'm also interested in not having to remove the water pump to get at the timing chest, etc.
I'm not at all opposed to fitting another Defender 200TDI, but finding one with low mileage from here is difficult/takes a lot of time and ends up being more expensive generally. Now, if someone here has one lying around <100K and is willing to let it go reasonably, I'm interested. Even if it lacks an exhaust manifold and turbo if the price is right as I know how rare those are.
Fuel Filler Neck
in Discovery Forum
Posted
I have a 1997 here that has been converted to 200TDI, so it still has the petrol filler next which REALLY doesn't like being filled from my 1" nozzle here. I just want to confirm that if I order the proper diesel neck it will vent properly and allow me to actually fill with the high speed nozzle. I'm also wondering if the diesel neck does away with the stupid rubber fitting, it is just dissolving in the Biodiesel as it is so I'm hoping it is more like the Defender one.
Thanks!