[Where to get extended spring shackles from?]

Every LR parts place pretty much, also called 1-ton or military shackles. You'll need the bridge piece and bolt as well as the shackles.

thanks.

I know CPC used to sell extended ones for about £65, are the 1 ton ones the same or are they shorter? Ta.

[Where to get extended spring shackles from?]

Who sells extended spring shackles for the Series motors?

[Another mad cap idea…..]

Easy - decide what you want to do, and how much you have, then ask. Perpetual speculation is pointless and annoying.

Les.

Something small, ARC compliant, fiarly unique and capable. Budget upto £7k in parts & labour but if less then all the better (just to clarify the nitrous tdi project is not related to this or this budget).

But to achieve this it may have to go thru several versions and a couple of years which I accept. Example, if I go the hybrid route I may chop the chassis first and run on the stock engine. Or I might do an engine transplant first and do the chop later.

And while a 90 is an obvious choice there is something that appeals about running a coil sprung 88 with modern suspension, brakes, running gear and engine.

[Another mad cap idea…..]

Bluddy right - waste of time as it's never likely to happen due to the constraints already posted.

The HATT - You ask for comments and then argue the toss almost anally. If you have £600 or £1000 or whatever it is, then you can only do what your budget will allow. This ^^^^^^^ latest offering is clearly beyond what you can buy/pay someone else to do, so why bother asking?

Les.

Well I can't see the harm in asking, its not hurting no one. And to be 100% fair I never ever asked for advice on nitrous but how strong where the tdi lumps. Maybe I should have been more concise with what I was after or maybe not bothered asking at all (but I can hardly change that now).

Also see my post I made after yours explaining a lot of my reasoning of what I was/am doing.

Not too mention in my other thread I was bombarded with claims that an engine swaps (even citing the BMW V8) to be cheap and easy. So I've taken that advice and asked a question. If that's so wrong then help me buddy.

[Another mad cap idea…..]

The question is why cling to a LR gearbox that is not really designed for the power? Adapt a gearbox that FITS to join to the LT230.

Also why coil a Series when Defenders can be had cheaper - sell the Series to someone who wants a Series and buy a coiler. In the age of the SVA and cheap coilers there's no longer any point coiling a Series.

I agree there are a ton of better gearboxes. But as I want to stay ARC compliant it means a big no no.

And you could be right about the Defender, but hay I've already got a Series.

[Another mad cap idea…..]

I used to like doing ALRC stuff but they dont allow "trickm suspension"or big tyres

Yes its a pain. I'm hoping to use a fully retained suspension setup with some of X-Eng's new trailing arms as this should be within the rules. Can run upto a 33" tyre which is still big enough to break stuff with, so will be happy at that. )

[Anyone TD5 an 88 yet?]

200tdi disco lump into an 88" is a fairly straightforward swap.

I personally wouldnt bother coiling the series, especially if you're going to trial it. Well set up parabolics IMHO are a better set up than standard landrover coils, and actually give more articulation.

Jon

Yep I've considered this as well. But to be honest if I did this I'd want to swap the axles over for a wider track and better brakes and add power steering. Think overall it wouldn't be any cheaper or easier to stick with the leaf suspension. :unsure:

[Another mad cap idea…..]

No, I'm not out to rubbish and insult. Your threads have kept me entertained over the past few days, and have generally been the first ones I read on a return visit. They have certainly precipitated some forthright views.

As I said previously, each of your ideas has its own merits and warrants interest. Given a modicum of resource, an moderately talented and ingenious person could bring to fruition some of your concepts, and each for a not too unreasonable budget. However, the shotgun effect of simultaneously launching several disconnected threads serves to highlight a lack of focus and suggests a gulf between aspiration and achievement.

Take the nitrous on Tdi concept: As an engineer, if that was what I wanted to build, I would ensure that I understood how to monitor staying within acceptable limits for the engine/technology, secure the hardware and get it built. I would also want to understand the consequences of failure and whether I found them acceptable i.e. blown motor means no car, means no transport or it's ok as its not my daily driver and the piggy bank is rattling full of coins.

There is nothing new or unique about nitrous kit - it has been around for ??? decades - so it must be possible to assemble the system quite cheaply using secondhand parts and some information out of performance tuning books from your library or a trawl the internet. Tdi's are cheap enough to replace if the unfortunate happens (I gave £500 for a low mileage ex-Disco 300 that has turned out to be a really sweet engine), that it won't be a mega-bucks experiment. Only you can make the call on the consequences of failure.

Have a read through the Lowered Td5 and Lowered Td5 - Update threads as an illustration of how an idea that wasn't favourably received turned to universal acclaim. Perhaps nitrous on a Tdi will give an interesting short term performance boost. It is certainly out of the box thinking, and a build with before/after or on/off performance figures would silence the critics.

BTW: I was told it wasn't possible to turbocharge a LR 2.25D (3 main bearing at that), and for it to survive - oh how they laughed! I built it anyway and put a little over 35,000 miles on it in just over a year. There was a slight hiccup at ~4k miles when I melted a piston (about £50 for the complete repair), and I learned a lot about the thermal dynamics of diesel engines, EGT, etc. That was back in the mid-90's when TD's and Tdi's were far from cheap or plentiful and there wasn't the ready access to the vast library of the internet. That motor still runs in my IIA SWB today, but I wouldn't want to repeat the exercise.

Thanks for your very knowledgeable reply. I guess it does appear a little disjointed. And for many reasons, most I don't really want to discuss on a public forum.

The TDI nitrous thing is somewhat separate idea to the other threads. The Disco is my main 4x4 but not a DD. I want to keep it usable without spending too many £££'s on it, but at the same time I'd like to make it a tad different. I don't really want to blow the motor in it, but as the engine only cost me £470 well over 2 years back then I really can't complain if it goes pop by adding the nitrous.

To further this the Disco is currently the only vehicle I have with 4 proper seats so I'm inclined to keep it this way. It is however the vehicle I use to compete in Land Rover Trials with, although I know its not ideal.

In addition to this last year I bought a diesel Series 3 88 with the intent of prepping it for trialling. Sadly although I bought it as a supposed runner, the engine is seized. I did consider chopping my Disco down and making an 88 hybrid out of the two but as stated above I'd like to keep the Disco as a 4 seater. So I've been pondering what to do with the 88.

Then recently I've been offered a 300tdi Disco auto. Now as I already have one Disco I probably won't be keeping this, at least not as a regular Disco. So the choices are chop it down instead and use the Series 3 body. But I'm also interested in doing something more exciting with the engine, hence the TD5 and BMW V8 threads. I could decide to say sod it to the Series 3 for now and just look at an engine swap in this Disco and then maybe sell the other one. I really don't know.

As for not having anywhere to work, well its true. Since I moved house I no longer have a driveway or a workshop. But I'm hoping to sort out a driveway sometime this summer.

I do have access to other locations but they are not suitable at present. As unfortunately I have a TR7 V8 parked up at one place which would be suitable. But the TR7 needs a new axle on it, which I just haven't had time or interest in recently.

Then there's what do I do about the Series 3. It's in a field that belongs to a family member, but depending on what time of the year I could probably use one of the barns for a short period of time, but not during harvest as they will be used.

So yes it is disjointed but that's because I have too many vehicles, too much imagination at what I'd like to do to them and in reality not enough time or money to complete most of them. So I probably end up talking more than doing.

As it stands this is what I have at present:

-Chevy Camaro z/28

-Triumph TR7 V8 (in need of new axle)

-Peugeot 106 diesel (my current DD)

-Discovery 200Tdi (intent to add nitrous too, but also needs a front diff)

-Series 3 88 (in a field somewhere and need of a new engine)

-Discovery 300tdi auto (not with me yet but due to pick it up any time soon)

I have considered chopping in most of them and buying a TD5 90. But for reasons of my own I've decided against this route at present.

Also combining the fact that fairly recently I have managed to reduce my daily commute from 120 miles to just 46 miles I'm keen to look at alternatives.

Current thinking is this:

-Keep Camaro because its fast/fun and holds its money well (for weekend use mostly)

-Sell Peugeot

-Sell TR7

-Buy a Ford Puma and run on LPG as a new daily driver

-Fix 200Tdi Discovery and add mitrous

-Sort out what to do with 88 and 300TDI Disco

Aim is to:

-Keep a fast tidy car (Camaro)

-Affordable daily driver (Puma)

-Larger family sized off roader able to be used on holidays or when 4 seats are needed (200tdi Disco)

-Something a little bit different in terms of an off roader that could be used for competition (maybe a Series 3 88 pick up with coil suspension, BMW V8 or modern diesel, trick suspension and big tyres, oh and must be ARC legal as I like sticking to ARC events)

Convoluted - yes. But hay its just me

[In need of some tdi experts/guru’s]

Im not the one with the problem, Im not a blue bottle virgin - and I dont need your pity spanky

could have fooled me

[Another mad cap idea…..]

You seem to have a lot of ideas running at the moment - Nitrous Tdi / Td5 88 / Mega economic V8. They each have their own merits and warrant interest, yet you have managed to cite numerous reasons why each is not feasible or you find a counter to your thought train.

A vapour build would be the best bet until you have a garage or workshop to use as an "inventing shed".

Coat on, door slam!

So discussion and questions are forbidden on this website then?

And who said I intend to build all or any of these. Or are you just out to rubbish and insult?

But hay thanks a million

[In need of some tdi experts/guru’s]

I don't think that is nessacarily the whole reason.

The torque of an engine is also a function of the bore/stroke relation and thus the 'throw' of the crank.

The length of the stroke of the engine will also determine piston speed which is why longer stroke engines are usually torqueir but have lower peak revs. There is also cam lift and duration to take into account as well......but we are getting waaaay off the original thread topic now

I agree generally long stroke motors are more torquey. But hp is still calculated from torque in exactly the same way so it doesn't matter about the engine configuration.

Also evidence on long stroke motors making more torque is a little bit of a grey area. One of the hot rod mags in America built to engines as identically as they good but one with a longer stroke than the other but same displacement. Both made very similar torque curves however the shorter stroke motor made slightly higher HP due to being happier at higher rpm levels.

[Anyone TD5 an 88 yet?]

Yeah I thought it would be different.

You see I have my 200Tdi Discovery and I've got an old 88 Series 3. But the 88's motor is no more so need to think of what to do. I've also got a 300tdi auto Disco in the pipe line.

Ideally I'd like to make something good for trialling utilising what I've got and without breaking the bank.

So possibly converting the 88 to coils using one of the Disco's. But thought maybe a different engine would be more interesting.

Lot and lots of possibilities... shame about the lack of money though...... lol

[In need of some tdi experts/guru’s]

go for it mate,

will be bloody interesting to see if the tdi engine holds together!

as for failures though, you need to look a little deeper. Check out how many people have tweaked fuel pumps/up'd the boost and then subsequently find their piston rings knackered from fuel wash - valve seats burning away from excessive EGT's, piston failures from poor spray patterns from the injectors not handling the additional fuel delivery, turbo bearing failures from high egt and increased pressures........

Yeah I know, but I've found it hard to find anything more than people saying about other people. Google doesn't exactly return a spreadsheet of conclusive results. So I tried this thread, which to be fair has seen quite a bit of interest but in all honesty hasn't actually provided any examples just claims that people have heard of....

So I started this thread: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=26003

But if you read it the reports of failures don't tally up with the claims in this thread

So what should I believe? Peoples opinions without anything to back them up or a more statistical analysis based on what data I can find.

and its not jsut dumping nitrous in to make the engine big on power. As others have mentioned, its about the design of the engine and its intended use. The VW engine is designed as a revvy road motor, so is the performance V8 LSx.

I do agree to an extent, not too sure how revvy a VW diesel is though, think they have PEAK HP at 4000rpm same as a tdi.

Also the whole aim of a power adder is to make big power without starting with a blank piece of paper.

think cam profiles, timing and all the other million items that are designed into an engine to match the intended use.

I agree if you are going for absolute maximum power or efficiency, but slapping a power adder (turbo, blower, nitrous) on to any engine will see an increase in power to some extent. Usually getting to greedy with that power is where most problems lie.

Main experience i have of this is with minis. In my younger days i liked to play around with the old 1275GTs. Fitting twin 1 3/4" SUs and a rc40 downpipe gave good results. But you change the cam for a high lift piper jobbie and profile the head to get rid of the kidney shape and increase the valve size and you get a MUCH revvier and livelier engine. Also upped the power nicely too.

Cool like the little Mini's, my cousin recently sold his 1275 GT Clubman.

But that aside, the tuning method I'm trying is deliberately not going down the route of expensive n/a style modification. I found out about the WON system by browsing a Ford Puma forum. There a user seemed to suffer very similar comments to these received here - as nitrous only breaks stuff and there are better ways. However they added a 50 shot and progressive controller and the car apparently runs very well producing over 200hp from a 1.7. The n/a option would have cost in the region of 3 times as much to achieve the same PEAK Hp but with lower torque and lower power across the rpm band.

I would NEVER say nitrous is the only route or that other tuning methods are a waste, because I simply don't believe it. I do believe there is a lot of miss-understanding about nitrous. Probably because of a lack of understanding and because there are some very carp setups out there which do cause a lot of problems.

Yes I'm a noob to nitrous, but not to tuning or performance cars/engines. And I believe for some £600 quid I can get a tdi to outperform most Rover V8's. Sure you could slap nitrous to a Rover V8 and walk all over the tdi, but then I don't have a Rover V8 in a Land Rover and I'd still be facing what would be for me unrealistic mpg figures.

so is the cam profile and combustion chamber shape, valve size etc on a tdi physically up to delivering those sorts of outputs?

Honestly I have no idea. But based on the fact that others claim 200hp without nitrous is possible from a tdi then yes I'd have say I think they are capable.

Also forgetting that nitrous is not as concerned with such things when making power. The heads/combustion chamber on a Rover V8 are pretty poor design compared to modern engines. But with the correct application they are fully capable of making power.

LR designed these with the criteria of super torque at lowest revs for offroad and towing and rubbish to total bhp.

I am happy to admit that I have no idea what criteria LR used when designing the tdi. Yes it probably wasn't for Formula 1 racing but its a bit of bold statement to claim what you are claiming. The tdi had a massive hike in HP & torque over it's predecessor. And in performance terms was successful in causing the 3.5 V8 to be taken out of production for the Defender.

As for HP and torque, well they are interlinked. HP is in essence a representation or torque at speed, or work done if you prefer.

HP = torque x rpm / 5252

Torque = HP x 5252 / rpms

The more torque you make the more hp.

The more torque you make at higher rpms then even more power.

Example:

A tdi makes about 195lb ft @ 1800rpm. This equates to only 67hp at this rpm.

If you could add a 100lb ft extra at this rpm you'd get 101hp @ 1800rpm. A relatively small increase in HP compared to the amount of torque.

At the other end of the spectrum a stock tdi makes PEAK power of 111hp @ 4000rpm but at these higher rpms you only need to make 146lb ft of torque.

If we could then increase this torque by the same 100lb ft to give us 246lb ft we'd see PEAK HP of 187hp.

This of course assumes the power/torque curves remain constant.

This is also the reason diesels make less PEAK HP that petrol engines. Petrol engines simply spin faster. A Honda Civic Type-R only needs 122lb ft @ 8500rpm to produce its 197hp.

[Another mad cap idea…..]

Does anyone know how easy it would be to fit a BMW V8 (4.4 M62 petrol V8 from the early 3rd Gen Range Rover) to a Land Rover?

Has anyone got one of these to mate to a LT77/R380 or the ZF auto from a RRC/Disco?

Thinking Megaquirt to take care of the ECU side of things.

How big are these engines? Will they fit a Defender/Discovery 1 engine bay?

[Anyone TD5 an 88 yet?]

Take it that's a no then?

[In need of some tdi experts/guru’s]

I think it would be unwise to try power hikes like that on a standard bottom end Tdi especially with a few miles under its belt. You just hear too many stories of broken cranks and rods....

Hi and thanks for replying to the thread.

You along with a few others are citing broken cranks and rods as a problem. Now I'm not disputing this fact but so far the only exmaple I've found is of someone running a non LR OEM crank.

Do you know of any examples where these failures have actually occurred? I ask because I'm not researching this as a full time profession and so far my research does not support these conclusion.

The first rule of tuning is you don't get anything for free and the second rule is that the costs increase exponentially the more power you're trying to get.

I think this is only partly correct. Bolt on mods generally "free" HP which is lost by the setup, this generally places no extra strain on the engine itself. But yes you will reach a level where gaining a few more HP will cost a heck of a lot more. But considering the level I'm starting at I don't feel I've perhaps reached this level yet.

NOS is a nice idea but its not a cheap and easy way to power - you can't just add loads of power to a bog standard, high milage engine and expect it to last.

Why not? Loads and loads of other people do, and to a very wide variety of engines.

No I'm not claiming this is proof that all or any engine will be ok, but on the other hand I don't think such a generalised statement is any more accurate or representative of the real world either.

At the end of the day just because the extra power is switchable doesn't mean you don't have to build it to take the power.

I agree which is why I've been wanting to find out some real world examples of where these engine fail.

If you took a car petrol engine an added nitrous until it broke you'd probably expect it to be pistons, rods or head. So to up the anti you'd probably fit forged pistons and stronger rods.

So I guess a question is does a tdi motor have forged pistons as stock? Considering the high CR and the addition of a turbocharger I'd have thought so. But insight from others in this matter is welcome.

If you want a 300 bhp Tdi to work you'll have to do exactly the same things to it no matter how you get the power.

See above

Yeah, it does have some bonuses if done right (like the cooling effect) but I prefer more traditional tuning first as when the little blue bottle's empty the fun's over.

Well ok. But where does traditional tuning end and start? Or what is even traditional tuning? The tdi has a turbo which is hardly traditional.

Also if I want to add a high lift cam I'll need to account for higher rpms, more boost means possible a better turbo and increased pressure, a ported head is astronomically expensive with likely small gains.

I AM listing, so if you where to max out the traditional route what would you do to a tdi?

Bearing in mind I have already modified the exhaust, have a full width intercooler, upped boost and a tweaked injector pump.

[In need of some tdi experts/guru’s]

Not all Petrol Land Rovers are V8 - there were some (not many granted, and a lot older) 2.25 and 2.5 Petrol's, or at least they are in my service manual - never "seen" one, even in pictures...

Agreed there are a lot of other petrol Land Rovers. Supercharged Range Rover Sports for example, lol

Seriously though, even the old Series motors running the 2.25 still often try and get more power, exhaust mods, induction, bigger carbs or for many simply swap in a Rover V8. In the pursuit of more power/torque.

Nicely edited

Sorry didn't realised I edit anything..

- I was trying to offer advice that the problems you could encounter are more than "internal" failures, external pumps and bearings also fail in a used engine. Not usually mentioned when people think of weaknesses in an engine. I said it becuase I did 'forget' and the costs mounted far beyond what I had budget'd for.

Ok so noted and you are correct to consider them as part of the whole picture and I should not have blatantly commented as I did.

Although in the case of alternators and power steering pumps these would remain fairly constant even I opted for a n/a tuned 4.6 Rover V8 from a P38 Range Rover.

Yes Land Rovers are road vehicles, but what I meant is, is the Engine in a VW Golf designed to cope with it being used to descend a hill? Is it designed to cope with being submerged in water? I doubt it, the 200/300tdi is a very "rough" sort of engine - hundreds of times better than the older generation of Diesels (which I replaced in my truck) but still considered "Agricultural"...

In all seriousness I do know what you are getting at and surprise surprise I actually agree. I just disagreed with the comment that they weren't for road vehicles.

Not arguing for arguments sake? When did I say you "did" say that?

Ok I must have miss read your comment too. I thought you were comment on me having said that.

Coolio

[In need of some tdi experts/guru’s]

erm......... kinda forgot flame front travel speeds the consequential effects on timing, ping ping, tinkle....... oh dear

although with a diesel I'd guess it should be more straightforward

If you've got a problem email Trev @ WONm and take it up with him for pity's sake.....

[TD5 Discovery]

I would have thought BMW would not want the rights to the Td5 if they were going for free as it is hardly "the ultimate driving machine" but then that reflects the fact I have always hated Td5s

All of the other engines you mention have primarily been developed for other vehicles so it is not surprising the rights to those remain with BMW, Rover Cars or Ford - the Td5 has never been used in anything else apart from Defenders and Discoverys and is now an obsolete design so why would they want the rights to something they will never use? I still think the rights to the Td5 remain with LR though...

I seriously hope I'm wrong as it would be better for LR fans.

But businesses do strange things. Ford bought the right to the Rover name fairly recently so as to protect Land Rover encase MGRover was sold and someone wanted to bring out a new Rover 4x4. Not too sure if this name has now been sold with LR or still resides with Ford.

As for MGRover, they I think owned MG but only had Rover under licence. MG is now seperate and what was the Rover 75 is going to be relaunched as the Roewe or something I can't spell. I suspect as the right was only bought to produce the car and not the name.

BTW - Sorry as this is off topic.

[Bonnet Vents?]

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/Pro...;pcode=RED80204

[In need of some tdi experts/guru’s]

To my mind the big restriction in tuning diesel engines (particularily mechanical fuel injection) is the charge cooling aspect as well as the pump capacity problems already discussed. Discuss the following example:

The standard Toyota Landcruiser 4.5TD 24v engine puts out 212bhp and 274lb/ft. We're fitting a version of this engine in our boats which puts out 380bhp and 520lb/ft - thats a near 80% power increase and near 90% torque increase. All on a totally standard Toyota bottom end, only the turbo, fuel pump and intercooler are changed.

The key to this power increase is in the charge cooling. A standard factory intercooler will produce about 5 to 10% efficiency (reduction in inlet temperature compared to ambient temperature). A good aftermarket intercooler may raise this up to as much as 30%. The 380 bhp boat engine uses a huge sea water cooled charge cooler capable of running over 120% efficiency - that is the inlet air temperature is lower than the ambient air temperature.

The advantages are more air in each cycle, therefore more fuel. Lower combustion temperatures, therefore lower exhaust gas temperatures which in turn leads to higher fuel/air ratios possible before damage occurs.

So the way to apply this theory to a Landrover Tdi is to find a more efficient way of charge cooling (without taking the entire sea with you )

Thanks for some interesting information.

Here's some info from WON:

Cooling Effects

Cooler intake air is denser and contains more oxygen atoms per cubic foot. So cooler air will allow more fuel to be burned and in turn, make more power. A 10 degree drop in temperature can add 1 to 1.5% power to an engine. Nitrous oxide boils at -129°F and it will begin to boil as soon as it is injected. This can cause an 80° or so drop in manifold air temperature. Now if we are dealing with say a 400 hp engine, we can see a gain of well over 30 hp from the cooling effect alone. This cooling effect also helps the engine deal with detonation.

What is Nitrous Oxide?

Chemical Properties

A nitrous oxide molecule is made up of 2 atoms of nitrogen and 1 atom of oxygen. By weight it is 36% oxygen (air is only 23.6% oxygen). At 70° F it takes 760 PSI of vapour pressure to hold nitrous in liquid form. The critical temperature is 97.7° F; at this temp the vapour pressure can no longer hold the nitrous in liquid form. At this point the nitrous turns gaseous and will be at 1069 PSI. As temperature rises further, so will pressure, but it will remain in gaseous form. If you intend to siphon liquid nitrous, it is important to keep the temperature below 97.7°. When liquid nitrous is released, it will go from 760 PSI to 14.7 PSI (normal atmospheric pressure). It will then begin to boil and rapidly expand; the pressure drop will cause the temperature to decrease. Nitrous boils at 129.1°F below zero.

[In need of some tdi experts/guru’s]

In my time browsing forums both here and quite a few other places it comes to my attention that VERY few bother to mod TDi's -

Hi and thanks for replying

I'd have to disagree though. Loads and loads of people tune tdi's else why would companies such as Jermey J Fearn, Allisport and Twisted Performance exist? Because there was a market for it maybe?

No I'm not claiming they are the pinnacle, but there are plenty of modified ones in use off road and on.

or even Land Rover petrol's. This can only be that any that have looked at it have thought, after reading around the forums that it's too much hassle and expense.

Well the "petrol" Land Rovers you refer too all run the Rover V8, the main stay of petrol heads and V8 fans in the UK for the past 35-40 years. You can even buy a 6.0 litre version if you have enough money. Plus several people running modded petrol V8's have responded to this thread already.

I'm really not wanting to sound like I'm arguing for the sake of it, but there are simply loads of modified Land Rovers, I know half a dozen or more people personally who run either modified tdi's, td5's or V8's in there Land Rovers.

The Cambelt is a very famous and well known week spot - you mention cars that have done over 100000 miles and no servicing will obviuosly fail - I've read of cars that are serviced as Land Rover stated in the manual and have had the Cambelt's fail do to a DESIGN flaw in 6000 miles, which is indeed very simple to fix (new idler pulley).

This was an issue with a select few 300TDI's and not common to every unit. As you say a simple fix, so it's hardly worth waving the white flags because someone mentions modding a totally different engine - 200TDI!

Nothing is Land Rover's is ever straight forward, if you forget to factor in a failure or an expense... it WILL catch you out.

Forget....

It was the whole point of this thread

The very reason nobody has actually answered your question 100% is that basically, nobody else has tried to add a WON kit to a 300tdi,

No I suspect that maybe no one has. But how am I supposed to know this?

Also I never asked if anyone had. But considering the great diversity of people, vehicles and interests I thought that maybe there where a few higher powered tdi's out there. Didn't have to be via nitrous, but there are other tuning routes and plenty of companies that sell the parts.

Also many seem to believe the tdi is a better/more suitable engine than a TD5 (although I believe this view may now be changing, and for good cause!) and the popularity of Comp Safari and other events.

Now please do not take this as rubbishing your idea

I'm not. And I hope you don't see my posts as insulting or anything else, they are just my response and no offense or harm is meant by them - no matter how badly I have phrased them, lol

- VW Engines are obviously designed for the road, Land Rovers are not.

eh???

Never ever seen a tdi in anything but road vehicle - meaning as a production unit and not a one off. It's not an aero, marine or industrial engine.

and I have followed many Discovery's on laning days that will argue agianst the "Disco's are for the road" comment .

WTF

Where have I said "Disco's are for the road". I'm running 33" frigging Simex Jungle Trekkers. Have dent in the side where I hit a tree trialling and brush painted bodywork.

[TD5 Discovery]

Are you sure about that? BMW do not use the engine in anything of theirs so I would be surprised if they retained the rights to what was a Land Rover engine built in UK?

I believe this is the case. Where the engine was built had no bearing on the fact.

BMW also kept all the rights to many other great and lost British makes and models that hail back through BL and BMC. Riley, Wosley, Morris and many others.

Also what about the fact that Land Rover didn't keep the rights to the BMW 6 cylinder diesel (P38A), 4.4 BMW V8, 2.0 Rover diesel, 2.0 TD4 BMW Diesel, 2.5 Rover KV6, 1.8 Rover K-Series, 2.4 Ford Diesel.

I'll admit I don't know about the 2.7 V6 diesel in the D3. The Jag V8 is used by Ford and Lincoln so who knows exactly what arrangement has been made with Tata long term.

But if I'm wrong about the TD5 then its GOOD news!

[Bonnet Vents?]

Possibly not very. You have to be careful with bonnet scoops as they don't always do what you expect. The reason being that, with most cars, there is high air pressure at the back of the bonnet and low pressure at the front (which is why heater air intakes are very effective when positioned at the base of the windscreen). A low, forward facing scoop generally gets little, if any, ram effect - and the faster you go the worse it gets.

I agree, I was meaning more like a Scooby style scoop. It needs to be above the boundary layer to be effective unless you plan on using a naca duct.

As for high pressure area, its more at the bottom of the wind screen than the top of the bonnet. The Mustang Cobra uses rear facing heat extracting bonnet vents:

But to use a rear facing vent as an intake source you'd need it much closer the windscreen like the cowl hoods:

[Glitch]

Yeah I'd say a dodgy earth somewhere. I know ages back on my Grandfathers Rover 600 when you put your foot on the brake pedal the headlights came on......