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T1G UP

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Posts posted by T1G UP

  1. I have recently tweaked my 200 tdi. went the whole hog as mine was sloooow.

    used this link http://www.stonefisk...uning_Rev.2.pdf

    Very informative. Print it out, stand over the engine and understand what is what BEFORE tampering.I took notes as suggested and test the mods out as i went.

    As i have an auto 200 the smoke screw was turn 1.5 turns as the engine is never laboured off boost due to the box. Little puff on start up, MUCH better take off from a junction etc due to having upped the off boost fueling.

    Turned the diaphram approx 180 deg to the max fuelling, easy to work out once you have read and understood what is what in the pump. Nice haze on full boost now but again never fully loaded up untill it locks into top gear.

    And finally i turned up the boost, approx 5-6 turns of the actuator, making it longer, to hold the boost higher. Much improved performance, will get to lock up speed, 45 ish, much easier now and will carry on accelerating over the legal limit.

    I have no EGT guage but have seen no ill effect and no massive rise in water temp etc. Again being an auto you don't drive it as hard as a manual. I had to retighten the boost hoses as they were singing...passing boost a little due to around 1- 1.1 bar of boost now. INtercooler upgrades on the cards next.

    If you are sensible this is the best mod i believe can be done on a 200 tdi for no cost what so ever.

    All the usual disclaimers applywink.gif but i like it

  2. Gday there mark,

    I reckon the length of the gearbox is the issue well the mounts leastways.

    The gearbox on the TD5 was differently mounted to the 300tdi as the bell housing was shorter.

    on the new one i would be looking at the bulkhead gearbox tunnel to see how it adds up and would it allow for the bellhousing of the 300tdi? the new dash having aircon i thought it would be a major boon what you not using that for ??

    You could always ship it to me in Western Australia lol good luck mate regards Andy

    Mark just re-read your post, if you are looking at dumping the old chassis you will need to adjust the mounts for the engine/gearbox/transfer case what i would do is hang onto the 300tdi gearbox tunnel on the original bulkhead -if your bulkhead has no corrosion i would waxoil the hell out of it and keep that as it would be one less adjustment...for more info i think you may want to have a yarn to the guys on the australian land rovers owners forum as many of our guys have looked at mods over a period and some of the guys may well be able to see you right mate

    R380 gearbox is the same for a TD5 / 300 TDI

    not sure on the dash situation. could use a 300 bulkhead, tunnel floor plates etc i guess

  3. I use the NFU but I haggle but I feel i get a good deal because we insure everything (company wise) with them, buildings, PL, marine cargo and not least all our company vehicles, lorrys etc with them (40 lorries, 30 cars/pick ups, 42 tractors) you can seem them face to face talk to them in the pub.

    They do obviously understand the 'agricultural and more pratical client' more than a lot of companies.

    NFU for me, same senario here with both companies insured with them, if i want cover i call them and it's covered! Great to deal with on a personal level and will have a deal if they can.

  4. only ay to sort it is to change master/ slave and the hose between.

    my td5 did it .....especially if someone else was driving! if they smacked the pedal down hard i guess it would flip i seal over somewhere and the clutch would go! after a few miles it would be back fine?! landrover ehwink.gif

  5. Si

    I'd try another ecu without any of the plip ****e attached.

    Maybe the ECU just can't handle that? Never had any of that on it before so i'd try another ECU if poss.

    Have you / do the injectors need to be dailed in?

    If these things are so easy to pinch then maybe a factory imobilser is not the way to go?

  6. Ok you got the classic blue connector problem.

    Pop the drivers seat up,turn on the ignition and twiddle the blue loom connector,you will here a relay click and the pump prime and the water in fuel light come on.won't fire unless the pump has primed and the fuel ights on. The erractic temp guage shows the electrical fault quite well.....been there ....done that.

    Whilst your there have the plug out of the ECU and check for oil.

  7. a word of warning to all,i have now had 5 emails from this chap,in the last one he wants to send me the money by bank transfer and me to deduct transport cost and pay the seller,says he is in canada,i now wonder if he is nigerian!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Seems straight enough Chris? would contact him directly rather than Flame him here!

    Bank transfers safe if enough time left to clear fully! and you did want the business in the first placewink.gif

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