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pist0nbr0ke

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Posts posted by pist0nbr0ke

  1. sheppy,

    Having done mine myself, using les's advice! The main tools you need are time and paitence!! Plus if you ever waited to have the money, surley you would never do anything!?!?!

    I spent more than i thought i would, and the total was £700 all in.

    What i am trying to say is

    Go for it, doubling the horse power is worth it :rolleyes:

  2. Andrew,

    The end of the handbrake (that is in the drum) is probaly partially seized. I had this with mine.

    all you need to do is strip it down and re grease the linkage. Once you start you will see that the end is open to all the mud and dust you drive through.

    Hope this helps

    Neil

  3. Jaroslav,

    I woke one morning to find i had grease splash around the outside of the offside wheel.

    It turned out that when i stripped the unit down and taken the hub off, there was a seal on the rear which is enclosed by a phozy bronze bush. This bush i imagine keeps the half shaft in a central position. grease had got past that ang travel along the half shaft and out the front throught the rubber cap!

    I think it is this seal that stops diff oil going into the hub but also hub grease going into the diff.

    cheers

    Neil

  4. on the legal side:

    The wonderfull leaders and chiefs that we voted in! Oh no it didn't work like that :ph34r:

    Well anyway they have allow the first 2000 litres of home made fuel to be produced without paying any duty on it. That's a lot of fuel!!!

    One question i do have though is how do they prove when you start?

    Carry on ice monkey, But the others have a point about the carbon in it, and i can't thinkoff the top of my head how to get the carbon out of oil.

    cheers

    Neil

  5. I have seen a product on the market which sucks the oil (via a tube) out of the dipstick!! These are availiable from places like draper and sealey.

    Some small cars like the Toyota Aygo i believe has No sump plug at all!!!

    Maybe one of these are a better investment? failing that get someone else to do it for you!

    cheers

    Neil

  6. it sounds like there isn'y a problem with the solenoid. Thats the bit you can hear clicking.

    I sounds like the drive pinion is not flicking into the flywheel. These could be for a couple of reasons:

    1: Shaft the pinion gear is on is worn and the gear is stuck and won't slide

    2: the shaft is dry , normally from getting hot (heat off the exhuast) and drying the lube out.

    The only way to find out and sort it is to remove the starter.

    Firstly you need to get to the starter. by removing the exhuast front section from the turbo.

    Dissconnect the battery to stop some funny hair styles!!

    Dissconnect the electrical wires on th back of the starter.

    There are three bolts that hold the starter in place remove those and it should come out. Use landrover tool no.1 as it can be corroded in a little.

    Hope this helps

    Neil

  7. When i did mine I made that "mistake" You can use a defender rad and disco intercooler together no problem.

    However when you put the defender rad into the suround the rubber mounting holes are in a different position! sorted that with a small hole saw and moved the rubbers.

    If you can get the surround rad and intercooler from a disco, all you have to do then is cut off the side supports on the rad frame and lower the mounting brackets shown in Les's instructions.

    Cheers

    Neil

  8. When i went looking, the size spec'd for a 90 was about yea big! however there was plenty of room for one a bit bigger.

    I went to J clarkes in Stroud and got the biggest one that i could fit in the space under the seat. I have ended up with a comercial battery cost about £45

    Might be worth a look

    Cheers

    Neil

  9. Andi,

    I have just done a conversion from a 2.25 petrol 90 to a 200TDi. All i did was get hold of a disco fuel filter and set up the flow and return pipes to that.

    You can unplug the fuel pump (in the tank) but still use it. The diesal; will use the lift pump. Make sure you drain the tank fully before filling it with diesal (made that mistake!!)

    Hope this helps

    Neil

  10. Having just done mine, it is best for you to use the existing box, No need to change the bellhousing either just tap the two holes that have been drilled already- Cheers Landrover for thinking we might do this!!!!

    The down pipe is best get from either Steve Parker or in my case of that popular auction site. The two i have bought came from a guy in worcestershire, cost 70 quid. it gets a bit cramped around there and you will have to move the clucth hydralic line (about 1inch). Also make sure the starter is good, you wont have to take it all apart for a least 2 weeks then!

    The hoses for oil were made up by a local hydralic guy (for cash!!) and the turbo hoses i got were from Merlin motorsport at Castle Coombe.

    Les has his guide on here in the tech archive. Read that a good couple of times again and take your time.

    Cheers

    Neil

  11. Andrew,

    My thoughts are that if fluid is leaking around the drum brake on the back of the transfer box, it will not be any thing to do with the clutch. The level on the master cylinder would also show no level change is this is the case.

    It is definatly oil? You havent been offroad? It could just be water/mud/rust draining?

    If it is oil im suspecting a seal on the output shaft on the transfer box. I imagine someone else on here will be able to give you parts numbers and pictures.

    If you need to remove the handbrake assembly, and with money permitted, maybe you should also fit a x brake disc conversion. But this is purely an upgrade and wouldn't be essential.

    Cheers

    Neil

  12. Guys,

    Any chance of some help?

    Ive got a lt77 out of a 90 that cannot get 5th gear, on closer inspection the lay shaft has reportably been broken, i imagine this is the culprit.

    I do however have a lt77 from a disco in my workshop, Can i just change the bellhousing and input shaft?

    Cheers

    Neil

  13. Afternoon!!

    It may be a good idea rather than re fitting standard bushes, is to get yourself a poly bush kit and start at the front of the car.

    This is easy to do:

    Jack up the vehicle and remove the radius arm.

    Burn out the rubber from the bush and remove.

    Get a hacksaw and cut a notch out of the outer part of the bush

    knock out with a hammer

    press in new bush witha bench vice

    Get yourself the Haynes book of myths and legends, that will show you how to change the disks and pads. Also the rear brake slave cylinders (sounds like to me).

    Two new headlights can be bought from paddocks, either sealed beam or halogen upgrade. Any additional lights fitted are exemp from the mot and don't need to be touched eg two hanging off the A bar or, like mine four across the top of the windscreen.

    The brake pipe to the rear: you can disconnect this and take it down to your local motors factors and they can normally make one up for you. Dont forget to get a friend to help you rebleed the brakes after!!

    The book of legends will tell you about the wheel bearings and how to adjust them, you might need a hub spanner though £6!

    When you take it for a mot, they cannot test the breaks like a normal car. Because of the 4x4 drive it wont go on the rollers, same with testing the handbrake! The foot brake he will take it for a drive and do an emergency stop and use a peice of kit called a decellerometer in the footwell. The habdbrake is checked by trying to turn it by had.

    mot are great arnt they!!!

    Sorry about the freefall reply, hope this helps

    Neil

  14. The best way to increase the power is to let the engine breath more easily.

    My suggestion:

    Either fit a de cat pipe, as previously recomended

    If you want to leave the cat in so it doesnt fail the mot ( it pysically needs to be there), get a bar and a hammer, and beat the insides out!!

    Also remove the mid box. This may make the vehicle a bit louder but not boy racer like.

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