RustyNissanPrairie
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Posts posted by RustyNissanPrairie
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been awhile, but another one! Please report
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its not so much the amount of torque produced but the fact its producing that amount lower in the rev range - the four cylinder 'bangs' are further apart - whereas at higher revs and where a tdi normally comes on boost the combustion pulses are closer together which my tired brain reckons is better for a gearbox (?)
Its how I drive my Ford Transit even though it has a VGT and does pull from low down I dont want the expensive DMF taking a hammering.
Incidentally - whereabouts is the LR you mentioned above? - im paying my brother a surprise 40th birthday visit in a few weeks and the pound is strong against the Oz dollar at the moment.
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Im currently rebuilding a Defender 200tdi engine from the block upwards. The engine and turbo is pretty shot so am looking at an extensive rebuild.
I've previously looked into and wanted to include a VGT into the rebuild but I'm sticking with a standard turbo. The reason being that the VGT produce torque/power at lower revs but I don't believe this is a good thing for the gearbox/crankshaft.
I'd rather be running higher revs/lower/smoother loading than lower revs/big heavy 4 cylinder thumps thru a gearbox that's close to its design limits already.
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Pasted below are my musing from when I had a 6 bolter! Good box but I wanted to run Sumo bars and the Disco style track rod end setup so went with a 4bolter after 3 or 4 years of running the rebuilt Gemmer.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=58812
Quote;
I know you can get a refurbed PAS box for £180 odd quid or so but I have the means and time at work to do it myself, anyway for anyone else bored/stupid/tightfisted enough to want to rebuild a 6 bolt Gemmer HD PAS box themselves-below is a list of the stuff you need.
Instructions;
http://www.landrover...0_WSM_book4.pdf
Additional parts required to rebuild a 6 bolt Gemmer PAS box other than a standard aftermarket seal kit from Ebay/Paddocks etc (Part number RTC5071).
The genuine LR kit is £157 als5
Top cap bearing (retained by the 6 bolts);
Torrington B2012 full compliment roller 1 required
Main housing bearings;
Upper- Torrington B2016 full complement roller 1 required
Lower- Torrington B2020 full compliment roller 1 required
Input shaft;
Torrington B126 or IKO BA126Z
Seals
Input shaft seal;
Use standard 27*19*5 seal provided in kit, however if input shaft is worn/pitted use SKF or Chicago Rawhide Speedi Sleave part number 99076 in conjunction with standard seal.
http://www2.chicago-.../PDF/457027.pdf
Main shaft seal;
Upper/Inner high pressure seal, OE part-use instead of item provided in seal kit.
Claron Hydraulic seals Ltd, Polyseal part number P175125/1
Page 59 http://www.claron.co...df/claron10.pdf (they will send you one as a sample if you blag them)
Dirt wiper/lower seal;
Use 45*32*6mm seal provided in kit or part number 10004219 from Eriks seals&orings
http://www.eapseals.com/
Additional dirt wiper/lower seal
Eriks V ring type A, part number 10014205 size ref V32A
Settingtool;
Dingocraft, http://shop.dingocro...ther_tools.html
Or turned & externally knurled aluminium collar, dimensions: overall diameter 63.5mm (2.5"), internal diameter 19mm (0.75"), height 25mm (1.0")
It all makes a bit more sense when you remove the two shafts from the box, however the output shaft seal arrangement is that the Claron seal goes in first, or is the upper seal, with the EAP lip seal on the lower or bottom. The V ring type seals are additional and not normally fitted but offer increased sealing helping to keep dirt out of the seal housing area.
Mines been fine 3 years after I rebuilt it. -
That's a very good point that I forgot about. I did that to mine as well as every ss bolt ive used in order to try and prevent galvanic corrosion.
Stainless actually increases the amount of galvanic corrosion - zinc ( preferably in either galvanized or sherardized form) is the best for Landrover based applications ie mild steel & aluminium materials. SS is okay as long as its smothered in Duralac (or better) or has a physical barrier.
http://www.preservationscience.com/materials/metals/PGC.html
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I've been hunting around for a rear crankshaft seal for a 2.5nad and I have come up with a part no ERR 2532G but I've found some parts are from the not recommended brand and claiming to be oem. There in lies my quandary I want a seal that will not leak 2/3 weeks later. Does £5/6 sound about the right price?
Someone tell me where I can get a good reliable one from please.
"Dowty" is OEM for the rear crank seal - and should have the name/word on the metal portion of the seal. Anything green coloured and claiming to be OEM is likely to be carp. Dowty ones are £30+ but I've never usually paid more than £12 / £15 for them - keep an eye on Ebay for new old stock.
Why not keep the 2.5NA but fit a later NA/TD head that had far better porting, coupled with a bigger airbox (like the Donaldson Wolf ones that appear on ebay) and a tweak of the max fuel screw on the pump makes a massive difference to a 2.5NA.
It will never be as good as a TDI but it is simple and bulletproof.
edited to add:
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if you want to paint a full Lanny and arnt too bothered about keeping the original factory colour then roller painting is a good method - BUT - it does take a long time to do properly. I've painted my 110, numerous bike frames and the upper front roof area of my Transit with rollers.
The basic idea is to get as thick layer of paint on as smooth as possible then flatten back with 1500 grit to remove the roller lumpy surface, then keep repeating until you have a decent paint thickness/smooth surface. Finish off with t-cut/cutting compound then wax to protect.
Rustoleum is a great paint - but I believe but is funny about being recoated in anything other than Rustoleum. It is available in white/tintable that can be pigmented to any colour. I get it from Decor8 in Bury because im local (ish)
Hammerite - is carp nowadays, forget it.
If you are wanting to do small areas - then Halfords aerosols are surprisingly good, the match to my Frozen white Transit was spot on and far better than other suppliers. It covered well and rust hasn't reappeared.
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Did France/Spain/ibiza in our Transit last year, the original plan was to avoid autoroutes much as possible, and we know France pretty well from having family&friends there but you forget just how big the country is and the plan for avoiding autoroutes went well out of the window when you start running out of time/holidays!
The autoroutes get you to your destinations quicker but at the expense of tolls&boredom!
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Just to clarify, I 'think' you are looking for a template to outline the hole you need to cut in the tub, and NOT ( my first thought) a template to cut the metal to make the filler surround you have pictured.
If I'm correct, what you need is a Series panel, with the filler surround removed, and the hole outline drawn on a piece of card.
Yes? No?
Do you know if there is a difference in the filler surround between an 88" side fill (just behind the RH front door) and a Station Wagon side fill (behind the RH rear wheel, for a rear tank)?
Obviously, if there is a difference, you have to say which filler surround you intend to use :-)
HTH
I think that might be the easiest - find a panel with the filler removed, and now im thinking aloud - have someone draw a template, scan it and sticky on this forum so other members (like myself and Tacr2man) can print it at full size and stick it onto the panel and cut the outline in exchange for a few beer tokens?
Not sure what my filler is off - its identical to the piccy above
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I've been thinking though that I might borrow the large Karcher diesel powered steam cleaner from work and give the bulkhead a good blasting to get the waxoyl out prior to galving
My 110 is having a full strip and rebuild so everything is being stripped off and sorted into separate boxes/stillages for shot blasting (smaller stuff in my own cabinet) bigger stuff like the tub cappings, tub floor supports, bulkhead etc by a local media blasting company that I've used before for industrial machinery rebuilds.
Everything is then either going to powder coat, galvanising, or electroplating in a single large batches.
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thought so!
the hunt for a localish bulkhead begins!
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Wanting to have my bulkhead galvanised, the only problem is that it must have between 5 and 10 litres of waxoyl squirted in it with loads up around the vent area.
I think I know the answer already................but do I have to get the waxoyl out first before I galv it?
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Im adding a Series style galvanised fuel filler surround to my 110 tub for use as a water fill for the onboard tank.
Its a bit daunting so wondering if anyone else had done and made a template?
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My replacement chassis came with no engine mounts but with lots of different inserts to bolt on mounts. I bought L&Rh 2.5 petrol mounts to mount my 200 on. They bolted straight into place on the chassis.
Mo
That sounds interesting ! Who's chassis was that?
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Looking to order a replacement galv Marsland chassis soon for my 110 with mounts to suit my 200TDI, but also thinking about future proofing it and having 300tdi mounts also fitted seeing as there are loads more 300 engines knocking around than Defender 200's.
I emailed Marsland but without reply.
Is it possible and has anyone done this previously on their chassis?
TIA
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is the noise just as it starts or all the time at tickover? Does the rattling have a rhythm?
Slight possibility that timing chain tensioner/chain, is out of adjustment if the engine has fairly high miles allowing the chain to rattle around a bit.
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Just bought myself on account a new Bosch 18V 4.0ah cordless impact driver - 650NM torque for a big project at work...............and no doubt the odd Landrover nut&bolt !
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I have access to a lathe and often make tools up for this sort of thing out of nylon round bar if I can be bothered but when passing lip seals over grooves i usually just wrap insulation tape over the groove to the end of the shaft, oil/grease everything then slide the seal over. Have rebuilt a few steering boxes without any trouble.
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If your cam bearings are in place then its the o-rings on the vacuum pump/oil pump drive- the bearing assembly where it fits into the block. If either of the 2 o-rings fail then it allows the oil to short circuit and develop lower pressure than normal.
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Diesel is dead.
Dual mass flywheels, fragile high pressure injection systems without sulphur to lubricate them, diesel particulate filters, egr valves feeding engines dirty oily sludge, failing turbos, and adblue all in an effort to try and clean up an inherently dirty means of combustion.
Needed a large estate for work, bought a petrol Volvo, too many issues with long term diesel ownership. Poor MPG but that advantage with diesel is wiped out the first time it needs an injector. I'm dreading the inevitable big bills with my TDCI Transit when it eats its own fuel pump/system.
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7 50 and 235's have a different rolling radius - your transfer box wont be happy. All 4 tires (including the spare) should be the same size on a permanent 4x4 vehicle.
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the angle of the injector is different on the 300 head compared to the 200tdi's apparently and so the pistons have corresponding shaped recesses in the piston crown, besides I need to buy some new pistons regardless so could just buy 300tdi ones instead.
Cheers Western - i have parts ID manuals and there is info out there regarding a 300tdi on a 200block but most people dont bother due to having to change pistons to suit the 300 heads.
Im now thinking about the possibility of keeping the 200 timing case as the water pump is in a better position compared to the 300 but being able to fit the 300's fuel pump. Kinda best of both worlds1
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Random thoughts/musings!
I have a Defender 200tdi that im rebuilding to go in my 110.
The 110 has a new drive train - ie Ashcrofts late spec (suffix D? IIRC) LT77 and a brand new 1.4LT230 so Im wanting to keep the existing set up rather than going to a R380.
The engine block is in pretty poor condition and is being bored/linered as we speak. All internals are being replaced.
The turbo is shot and is only fit for the bin but I was going to fit a VGT from BAS (if they still do them)
I've not checked the head yet but i'm assuming the worst although I do have a spare head that I've not 100% checked yet but it is flat and uncracked.
As I understand - a 300tdi head will fit a 200 block BUT wont work because the pistons, injectors, FP and obviously manifolds/turbo are different between the two engines.
Now..this is where my musing's come into it
I need to fit new pistons to my 200 bottom end when its finished machining, but I could fit 300tdi pistons and build the rest of the engine as a 300tdi ie head/manifolds/turbo/fuel pump/injectors/timing chest
That way I can still use my gearbox and mount the engine in the original 200tdi easy to work on forward position because of the 200block engine mounts but have the 300tdi advantage's of slightly quieter sequential injection fuel pump, serpent drive belt/bigger alternator and new cylinder head availability.
Any thoughts comments?
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more people need to report, the one above is still on Ebay, have reported again.
Dead defender - mountain tow
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
pull the injectors and/or glow plugs and leave the engine in gear to allow the engine to spin over easily and provide braking vacuum.
If the cambelt has gone then as above but take the push rods out (if a LR engine).