Overhaul output shaft Gemmer power steering box

[indy]

Hello Colleagues,

My first topic on LR4x4 but I am not a real novice...I normaly visit Lroc.be but I am going abroad now !!

I have a leaking output shaft on my Gemmer power steering box for some time now.

It is not serious and it is not getting worse but it is annoying, everytime a drop makes be big drop at the end !

I got a repaer kit from my local LaRo part shop but it seems to be the wrong one STC2848 ??????

Tomorrow I hope they will give me the right one ! Does somebody know the right repear kit code (so that I get the right one tomorrow)?

I still have doubts about is...some say it is the right one, some say it is wrong.

Does anybody has experience in changing these output seals from the shaft.

I already know that is will not be easy to get the drop arm off.

What about the old seals? I suppose the box will immediatly empty after removing the seals.

Is it easy to bleed the system after changing the ?

Thanks

[indy]

Nobody with some experience with this power steering box?

I really would like to know the sequence of the several parts that I need for the output shaft of the steering box ?!

[western]

the seal kit number you quote above is for the 3 & 4 bolt boxes not the 6 bolt Gemmer

STC2848 seal kit

this is the seal kit for a 6 bolt Gemmer box RTC5071

[RustyNissanPrairie]

I'll post a bit more info later, but for now;

I know you can get a refurbed PAS box for £180 odd quid or so but I have the means and time at work to do it myself, anyway for anyone else bored/stupid/tightfisted enough to want to rebuild a 6 bolt Gemmer HD PAS box themselves-below is a list of the stuff you need.

Instructions;

http://www.landrover.ee/est/files/manuals/cars/defender/Def_90_110_WSM_book4.pdf

Additional parts required to rebuild a 6 bolt Gemmer PAS box other than a standard aftermarket seal kit from Ebay/Paddocks etc (Part number RTC5071).

The genuine LR kit is £157 als5

Top cap bearing (retained by the 6 bolts);

Torrington B2012 full compliment roller 1 required

Main housing bearings;

Upper- Torrington B2016 full complement roller 1 required

Lower- Torrington B2020 full compliment roller 1 required

Input shaft;

Torrington B126 or IKO BA126Z

Seals

Input shaft seal;

Use standard 27*19*5 seal provided in kit, however if input shaft is worn/pitted use SKF or Chicago Rawhide Speedi Sleave part number 99076 in conjunction with standard seal.

http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/PDF/457027.pdf

Main shaft seal;

Upper/Inner high pressure seal, OE part-use instead of item provided in seal kit.

Claron Hydraulic seals Ltd, Polyseal part number P175125/1

Page 59 http://www.claron.co.uk/pdf/claron10.pdf (they will send you one as a sample if you blag them)

Dirt wiper/lower seal;

Use 45*32*6mm seal provided in kit or part number 10004219 from Eriks seals&orings

http://www.eapseals.com/

Additional dirt wiper/lower seal

Eriks V ring type A, part number 10014205 size ref V32A

Settingtool;

Dingocraft, http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Other_tools.html

Or turned & externally knurled aluminium collar, dimensions: overall diameter 63.5mm (2.5"), internal diameter 19mm (0.75"), height 25mm (1.0")

Have fun!

[RustyNissanPrairie]

It all makes a bit more sense when you remove the two shafts from the box, however the output shaft seal arrangement is that the Claron seal goes in first, or is the upper seal, with the EAP lip seal on the lower or bottom. The V ring type seals are additional and not normally fitted but offer increased sealing helping to keep dirt out of the seal housing area.

Mines been fine 3 years after I rebuilt it.

[indy]

Indeed, RTC5071 should be the right one for Gemmer steering box.

Picture below is the complet set.

I suppose only part 1- 2 and 3 that I have market should go to the output shaft ?

But which one is the claron seal ? I suppose it is number 3

Number 2 is some steel with rubber washer ?

And I am missing a dustcover !

The sequence I think it should be

number 3 with the hollow side in the direction of the inside of the box

number 2 with the flat side (side with the steel visible)in the direction of the seal

number 1 the circlips

number 0 the missing dustcover ?

total set

Parts output shaft (one side)

parts output shaft (other side)

[RustyNissanPrairie]

Claron seal=Claron Hydraulic seals-OEM/Genuine seal company for Gemmer/LR PAS

The problem is that parts 2 and 3 are no good-rubbish in the non genuine Landrover kit-this is why it is a cheap price compared to the LR kit. You need to obtain the correct seals from the companies above in my reply-Claron Hydraulic seals, and EAP. Once you have the correct seals-throw parts 1&2 in the bin and use the correct OEM parts from Claron and EAP. All you use from the RTC5071 kit is the o-rings, and top seal nut.

If you try to use the non genuine RTC5071 seals-they will leak straight away.

[indy]

Claron seal=Claron Hydraulic seals-OEM/Genuine seal company for Gemmer/LR PAS

The problem is that parts 2 and 3 are no good-rubbish in the non genuine Landrover kit-this is why it is a cheap price compared to the LR kit. You need to obtain the correct seals from the companies above in my reply-Claron Hydraulic seals, and EAP. Once you have the correct seals-throw parts 1&2 in the bin and use the correct OEM parts from Claron and EAP. All you use from the RTC5071 kit is the o-rings, and top seal nut.

If you try to use the non genuine RTC5071 seals-they will leak straight away.

I had contact with the nice lady at Claron , and they gave me an adres in Belgium where I can buy by piece.

I have only one remark, I measured the seal from Allmakes and compared with the dimensions in the Claron catalogue (part P175125/1) and there seems to be a big difference in the hight of the seal ??!!

The Claron is according catalogue 0,281" and the Allmakes is around 0,195", maybee this compensated in part 2 ?????

EAP has not answered my request yet !!

[RustyNissanPrairie]

correct-there is a big difference in the seal heights-I couldnt see how the Allmakes/Britpart seal could ever work hence why I looked into it further and found the info on Claron, sourced a seal, fitted and had no trouble in the 3 years since.

[indy]

correct-there is a big difference in the seal heights-I couldnt see how the Allmakes/Britpart seal could ever work hence why I looked into it further and found the info on Claron, sourced a seal, fitted and had no trouble in the 3 years since.

If I understand correctly, the claron seal replaces both Allmake parts 2 and 3 in my picture.

You did not use part 2, this rubber/iron ring ?

I think it supposes to support the main seal ?!

Why did you had 2 different dirt seals ?

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Dirt wiper/lower seal;

Use 45*32*6mm seal provided in kit or part number 10004219 from Eriks seals&orings

http://www.eapseals.com/

Additional dirt wiper/lower seal

Eriks V ring type A, part number 10014205 size ref V32A

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

I suppose they come after the circlips (retainer) ?

I know it has been some while ago for you but I really want to know the details before I start the job !

Thanks a lot for your replies !

[RustyNissanPrairie]

throw parts 2&3 in the bin. Replace the thin Allmakes seal with the thicker Claron. The Claron is the same thickness/size as the original seal in the Pas box that is now worn and probably leaking hence why you want to rebuild. Its the same size because Claron made the original seal for Gemmer.

The claron goes in first, then the lip seal-the Allmakes seal quality is carp hence the EAP seal (better quaility). The EAP seal goes in next. Then the circlip to stop them being forced out.

The Claron is the main oil seal-the EAP lip seal is secondary/dirt seal.

The V ring seals are additional and go on the output shaft on the outside of the circlip between the steering drop arm and the PAS box. They are my idea and arnt fitted as standard.

[indy]

throw parts 2&3 in the bin. Replace the thin Allmakes seal with the thicker Claron. The Claron is the same thickness/size as the original seal in the Pas box that is now worn and probably leaking hence why you want to rebuild. Its the same size because Claron made the original seal for Gemmer.

The claron goes in first, then the lip seal-the Allmakes seal quality is carp hence the EAP seal (better quaility). The EAP seal goes in next. Then the circlip to stop them being forced out.

The Claron is the main oil seal-the EAP lip seal is secondary/dirt seal.

The V ring seals are additional and go on the output shaft on the outside of the circlip between the steering drop arm and the PAS box. They are my idea and arnt fitted as standard.

Okay..now I got the picture ! Thanks...I 'll keep you informed.