diggervan
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Posts posted by diggervan
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Hi if you want to know if your oil is contaminated take a sample to a oil blenders / or distributer
They'll tell you what oil it is what's in it everything you need to know
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Hi good to know you've got it sorted good luck with getting your money back that will take just as long and as problematic
Bob
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Took it back changed for another one works fine now
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Replaced yesterday easyer than i thought just awkward
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Hi has anybody ever replaced the bearing for the shaft that holds the viscose fan on it's the one that go's
In the timing cover
I know it's held by a circlip but how do you get the flange off the one that the pully bolts to
Any help appreciated
Bob
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Hi fitted a new bearmach amr6103r harness today put everything back together started her up and she only ran on4 pots.
So took cover off again to make shore I had plugged every thing in properly Which I had so started up again no cover on still the same .
So put old one back on and it ran perfect so just wondering if the one I've got is the right one or this one is faulty any thoughts Bob
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Mine failed on one side repeater and fog light not working new bulb for the repeater and good hard clout for the fog light sorted them
Happy days now till next time
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Ah no real probs then thank's for all the replys bob
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Hi does anyone know if I fit rear led's will the trailer light and busser in dash still work or will I have to
Get a relay box like you do on trailers if you swap to led's
Thanks bob
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Hi same answer as above just wanted to say that's a nice clean engine bay unlike mine
Bob
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Hi greasing uj's today and noticed starter motor covered in diesel so looked at pressure reg and it's leaking so do I replace with genuine or pattern part
Gut feeling is genuine but are the cheaper ones any good
Any suggestions thanks. Bob
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Hi that short wire is not an earth it's the main feed from solenoid to starter armechaur
When you cross it did you use the two threaded terminals if so don't
Use the one the battery bolts to and there should be a little spade terminal just above them and cross them together less sparks that way
If that works your problem lies in the wiring or ignition switch
Personally I would bench test starter motor /with jump leads put black one to body of motor red one to bat terminal on solenoid then
With a short peace of wire cross between bat terminal to that spade one if alls good it should spin up hope this helps.
Bob
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Hybrid wear is there one for sale
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Posted In wrong forum but thanks for quick answer muddy
Bob
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Hi I have a a front diff that's not got long to live so I am looking for replacement diff have it reconditioned at a comercial transmission place I know
So my question is what spline diff do I have 10 or 24
2002 defender 110 utility td5 everything is original so if any body know what splines I'm likely to have that would be great thanks Bob
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Hi I would say you have an earth problem try putting a wire from starter body to battery neg.
If that works clean up the original engine to chaise/engine to battery earths hope this helps
Bob
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Hi jameshub have you sorted this out yet just wondering
Bob
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Hi I'm not 100%but I think the rocker cover gasket is different on a10p to a15 p so which fits yours would tell you
Bob
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Hi sometimes the old seal can ware a slight grove on the crank so new seal does not seat properly and it mite bed it's self in but what I've dune in the past is to just tap the seal slightly out of its housing to give it a fresh place to sit
Not dune this on a td5 but dune it tractors and it's worked 9/10 of the time
Not saying it is this hopefully it's just a bit of carp stuck in between seal and crank as suggested above
Bob
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It's possible piston rings gummed up / valve guide seals/ head gasket more than likely piston rings if it's a high mileler try changing oil good quality run for 200 miles or so and change again it will take a bit of time but changing oil often will help
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K seal or any other seal is just a bodge to sell on if you want keep Landy don't use it can you confirm what you've replaced so far because if rad/w pump /thermostat is new and hoses are good and you've flushed heater matrix/oil/fuel cooler out with hose pipe it can only be the head I would say it's almost impossible for it to be the block
So if the head is of take it to an engine recon place or somewere like that and pressure test it only dye if they can warm it up
If it's a 10p engine they are known for cracking 15p not so much
Bob
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Sorry to hear that but are shore it's the block and not the head because it is very very unusual to be the block
Bob
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Yes who ever skimed head should of checked fo cracks otherwise like you said it would of been waste of time a sniff test for hydro carbons would awnser that
But if it's boiling and steaming there's a blockage or lack of circulation somewaer
If it was a crack in would start to pressurise as soon as engine was running
Bob
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When it pushes coolant out of expansion tank is hot as in steaming if not it could be the cap as suggested by dave88sw if you can not find anything else as last resorte take to old school garage and ask them to check for hydrow carbons in the water (sniff test) if there is none that means your head and it's gasket is fine and your problem lies in the (rad / w pump/ thermostat /hoses/ cap ) unlikely to be fuel or oil cooler more likely cap/ thermostat you can test thermo with boiling water in clear glass by dipping it in to see if it opens and closes properly make shore glass can take hot water as for the cap just get a good seal round it and blow if you can blow though it it's knackerd so replace it other than that I don't know just keep trying things like bleeding and flushing system out
Bob
TD5 overheating
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
That's allso good to know