Will C

Thanks for the input guys - The propshafts aren't the issue we have spares for overhaul. Looks like we're going the BW route. Will

Think this one will be spending more time off road and towing on backroads - Is it true the viscous units are quieter? Will

Hi - just picked up this thread on a search - anybody out there able to identify the manufactureer or brand of this one? - I think its one of the best looking fittments I've seen on a classic and is perfect for my current project.

I'm helping a friend to change a gearbox (lt77) in a RRC which currently has a Disco transfer box with the lockable Diff. We also have a Range rover Viscous unit. Which one would be the better unit to refit?

That's 20k euro - according to the Irish Revenue web site, the market value would be €22,850. We have a little item here called Vehicle registration Tax applied to all new and imported vehiles and it's around 30% of the book value. So by the time you buy one for £12k in the UK, ferry it across and part with the scheckles you're looking at €20k. Irish Vehicles have one big advanatage over our UK bretheren...we don't salt our roads. My 95 p38 looks like new underneath! Thaks for the input all - keep it coming, I'm still lookin

I came across a 05 TDV6 S at the weekend with 40k miles and 7 leather seats. It cosmetically looks perfect and in these straightened times may be picked up for close to €20k. Anybody out there got buying advice - I'm replacing a P38 and am very familiar with these and classics but know SFA about the D3. What should I watch for? Whats the possibilty of DIY servicing (Do all my own on P38)??? Thanks in anticipation of informed opinion

Max have you mounted them? How far back? How did you run wiring? Any chance of a pic? Will

Quick update for anyone following the thread.... I tried both the flasher unit and hazard switch in a mates disco and both are working perfectly - I also got a sencondhand column switch flom a local scrapper but that didn't fix the problem. So if the 3 main components in the circuit are working and the hazards work solo...what else can it be?

Thanks Landymanluke. How come the hazzards are still working perfectly with or without ignition? Will

Soft Dash RRC - My indicators stopped working. The flasher unit is ok checked it in a mates car. The switch appears to be ok when tested but no power to it. The hazards work perfectly. Car has a factory fitted alarm which does not work and an ignition immobiliser which does. Anybody got any ideas where to go next in the process of testing? Could it be an alarm relay?

No befores but if you look in my albums "RRC Project" you'll see afters. Will

I've fitted 245/75 to mine they are cheaper here in ireland because they are a popular size on some of the Jap models. You get less tramlining than the wider tyres and the handling is fine. Saving of about 80euro over the recommended LR siszes (I've covered 125k kilometers on this setup with no long term side effects).

Quick update for anyone following the treat - got a nice pair of 25mm alloy spacers off ebay (25quid) and put them in at the weekend - they have transformed the handling - the ride is quite soft in the classic style but the car no longer looks like it's pulling wheelies and the steering and braking have become much more precise. Did a little offroading at the weekend and was pleased with the lift, the car is still normal in terms of road handling. Will

Welcome - Landrovering is a disease for which there is no know cure and this forum is an assylum run by the inmates - prevention is probabl netter than cure but if you must buy one choose carefully - there is much to learn grashopper

Thought of that all by myself - It's on the other end of my long finger

I have a 4.6 with Polybushes on the front radius arms and panhard rod. Most of the vehicle's life is spent on Irish backroads with poor surfacing. I have had no vibration problems and the ride quality is very acceptable. The standard bushes need a special tool to proess them in the poly's are a DIY job. WillC

Thanks for that - your front set up souns similar to mine & I have a set of procomps on another car I'm cannibalising. What are spring isolators?

Hi all - some of you may have read other threads about what to do for a lift on the front of my classic (it's very heavy with a Mazda 3.5, two battries, winch & bumper, sterring guard etc. In the end I've used (coz I had 'em here goin-a-beggin) a set of britpart Disco rear +50mm Springs. These seem to be working well enough and have given an effective 1" lift to the front. I now want to match the back end but dont want HD ride so I'm planning to make up some 25mm spacers - Has any body done this? Does it work well? any designs appreciated. Will PS A handy tip - when fitting the front springs I used the spring compressors upside down inside the coils and could then open them from the engine bay once they were in situ. This made it easier to compress & keep the springs straight for locating (instead of wrestling with banana shaped springs)!

I have police specs fitted to my classic convertible - I'd agree with the 3/4 to 1" higher comments and wallowy handling. the dissapointment for me is that the drivers side is sitting lower than the passenger side and this is on a car that has only done 600 - 800 miles a year since fitting them. 3 years ago.

Cheers Bish - I havn't got in as far as them yet and if they're nylocks then I'm not woried but there's nothing as frustrating as stripping a corner and them having to wait a week to get parts from the uk. Meanwhile the workshop is clogged up coz axle stands don't travel well on gravel! I'll have a go!

On a late model classic with ABS - Can anybody tell me about the retaining nuts for the sensor ring in the rear disc/Hub assembly. Haynes says they must be renewed whenever they are disturbed . Is this really necessary?

Thanks landybehr - I've decided to do the wheel arches first and if needed then add the bodylift. I was going to use nylon the same Diamater as the washers too so the pictures help. The picture of how you lifted the body off has also given me a great idea for my own workshop!

Thanks Dengie-boy, That looks like a very neat job - What did you do on suspension and how did it affect the handling? Will

I'm working on me new beastie- Pics soon I promise! but I've just been gripped by the notion to lift it 1" in the body as well as about 1.5" in the springs. Has any body done it? What else is involved besides spacers for the mounting points ( I was going to get some Nylonblok ones machined locally) and the Rad Mountings? Is it worth doing? I Don't want to go 2" because the thing has to be a daily driver an will be running on 245/75 BFG on weekdays.... when playing and I stick on the Greenway MT's. I don't want to chop the arches as they might look silly with smaller tyres so I figured lifting 1" would help articulation/rubbing MT's without major chopping. All thoughts gratefully received.

I've been looking at those too for the p38. Let us know if its a straight replacement, I would expect it to be as it's advertised as a P38 part.