crewcab 110
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Posts posted by crewcab 110
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ive ordered everything just about what you need for around 45 quid off alliexpress just need to make the base mounting plate which is nothing to do dont pay 400 quid
i just have a few more bits to get if you have a constant air supply you may want to order another air solanoid to introduce air to the other two valves when system is in use still needs the switches and wiring but to be honest it isnt rocket science the rose joint ends were the smallest i could get and dont fit onto the little air rams but i wil be able to make them fit fill with weld in the ends and re tap smaller.you need the 4mm push in fittings and 4mm plastic pipe too everything needs to be 4mm.
i did all this to help get al the gear together when i do my 57 conversion trying to sort it all for the summer when i do the swap fingers crossed
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i am having a nightmare with stats every single one wont open unless its in a pan or raging boiling water when they are suppossed to open at 88 i pulled a waxstat out of an old 300 tdi tested in hot water just hot kettle water opened as it should put it in my defender 300 and it is now spot on why can i not buy a thermostat that works properly ive tried genuine and cheepo not one will open in boiled kettle water you have to have the water boiling and bubbeling ive now removed the viscous fan and its still spot on as i have an electric one too,anyone had this same issue.
ive messaged britpart as this is were they are all coming from see what they have to say as ive got 3 diffrent ones going back as they deffo dont open at 88 or in hot kettle water
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4 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
For the record, the transfer box on land rovers (the LT230) is very strong actually, known to put up with yank V8s quite happily.
yup as ive now found out something was sticking in the box and the diff lock wasnt kicking in so not broken its never been on a road in over 5 years so i doubt it will have any oil on it hence the sticky bit ,never had any bother with my td5 box.
also any of you guys using enamel to paint ya bits put some 2k hardner in with it you wouldnt beleive how well it turns out and goes off a lot quicker
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Hi anyone out there got a defender witha tdci dash and bulkhead using a 3oo tdi disco engine and box
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just been outside found the issue the diff lock is sticking just gave it a bash from the top and heard a little click and it must of engaged as ive got drive back to my front wheels also i wasnt able to get the selectro stick forward enough as box is out of disco and was hitting heater box from the tdci dashboard so that needs bending out the way ,thanks again for advice more minds better than one.
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35 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
If the rear prop was free to spin the front wouldn't get any drive unless you had it in diff lock?
yup had it in diff lock was rocking back and forwards till it freed up then wouldnt work again loil just aswel am taking it out and putting a defender one in
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well i got the new axel in both stubs were siezed so couldnt get prop on so stuck the wheels on put it in low ratio and rocked it back and forwards to free them lol and guess what happend lost front wheel drive rear prop still turning front prop is just sort of flicking a bit and doing nothing so safe to say ive killed something lol f ing landys dont u love em transfer box must be made of toffee.
there is a big diffrence between this axel and the disco one just didnt take any notice and prop is now spot on when in position
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49 minutes ago, crewcab 110 said:
i was showing the number on it incase that helped lol yer ive measured and this one is shorter than the disco one
another quick question anyone know the part number for the td5 rear stub axel seals so i dont make an arse of ordering them lol
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1 minute ago, Red90 said:
No. The diff center with the pinion flange. a long nose and short nose look quite different. You are just showing the a arm mounting point and a bit of the axle housing.
i was showing the number on it incase that helped lol yer ive measured and this one is shorter than the disco one
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1 minute ago, landroversforever said:
The entire diff. Or get a measurement from the axle centre line to the pinion flange face....
1)Longest measurement is the Salisbury
2)Middle measurement is the one you have (normal coiler axle)
3)Shortest is the one you want. The later type 110/130 rear axle
yup thats the one in the picture its td5 one
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1 minute ago, Red90 said:
Take a picture of the diff. It will all be obvious.
this is a pic of it lol ?
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2 hours ago, landroversforever said:
I know what's going on
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The Post '02 110 and 130 rear axle may look like a 'normal' Rover diff but is actually the P38 'short-nose' type which is around 2" shorter from memory. So as it is with the 'normal' diff in it, the prop is too long. With the proper later 110/130 axle the propshaft will be the perfect length.
does that number help this is the one i am putting on now all been knotted wheeled and needle scaled zink primer and gloss enamel looks better than the outside of the landy its turned out like a sheet of glass lol
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3 hours ago, landroversforever said:
They do, but the P38 diff is about 2" shorter than a normal Disco/Defender one, hence the propshaft looking rather too long (compressed) above.
god knows whats going on as prop that is on is off a td5 110 ive got axel sorted rust taken off twisted wire brush now then a lick of zinc primer and some black gloss enamel then i will be sticking it in at the weekend fingers crossed then ive got to do transfer box the joys of owning a defender lol
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21 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
If only there was a thread dedicated to propshaft lengths...
@crewcab 110 I'd say your prop looks too compressed sitting normally, when you go over a bump it's going to bottom out and try to poke the diff pinion and transfer box bearings through their housings and knacker them in short order. People are telling you this stuff because they want to help, not to criticize your build!
21 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:If only there was a thread dedicated to propshaft lengths...
@crewcab 110 I'd say your prop looks too compressed sitting normally, when you go over a bump it's going to bottom out and try to poke the diff pinion and transfer box bearings through their housings and knacker them in short order. People are telling you this stuff because they want to help, not to criticize your build!
yes and i know thank you for all the help ,had my digger out went and collected an axel from my pile measured it and its shorter than disco one got a Salisbury there too but saving that for another build so i am now gonna dig out the engine crane hang it from that and set about cleaning all the rust and carp off it get it stripped paint it and pull the disco axel out of my landy then i will change transfer box too from a disco one to a landy one hopefully this will work and i am now covered in dog **** as my wheels were covered in it after going across a field at the back of my house to test it and i was leaning on the wheels oh the joys
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these are the pics of prop and diff any advice would be welcomed if prop is wrong what length would i need as i am sure this one is off a 110 diff not a Salisbury i have another one but i think its shorter and that one is off a Salisbury axel
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15 hours ago, Hybrid_From_Hell said:
Long nose and short nose axles and diffs on 110 are rated differently to carrying capacity.
Props are totally different lengths so yes Ross is right saying the prop length is wrong.
On 33s gearing is pretty much over the line for 3.54 ratios . Prob a 3.8 maybe a 4m1 to correct.
So loads of areas are questionable
i get ya i have a mix and match of all sorts on this landy so just trying to cobble it all together i have another prop that is the correct length to work with salisbury axel i have which i purchased a while ago after i had done all the work on the disco one and put it all in blasted painted etc so i was reluctant to change it you have totally lost me with all this ratio stuff everyone saying prop length is wrong how much of the spline should be showing on the prop at rest ? i will go and take pictures and put them on here as to me it looks rite ,but you guys know what you are talking about and this is my first ground up nut and bolt build.
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33 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
Defender transfer box will solve the issue. Still a tiny bit over geared compared to a bog standard 300tdi disco but it works nicely.
Doesn't matter if it's going offroad or not towing, or just running empty all the time, if something goes wrong and they start poking around you'll be wanting the KY
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lol i dont get worried that easily pmsl i might get five mins to pull it out as ive done everything outside as dont have a garage and try not to leave anything laying around when working outside as the local smack rats will have it away ,my drive is on a slope so it would mean my whole drive would be out of action when i do it so will have to get some good weather before i go rolling around under landy cheers for all your help
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Yes in the uk I do have a defender r380 box laying about could take the transfer box off that that would prob solve the gearing issue I also have a td5 one too an r380 one but I think the defender one maybe the way to go the axels that are on have all been shot blasted painted etc landy ain't gonna be going off road or towing anything I have a td5 double cable for that sort of thing lol so not arsed about vosa ive ran hybrid vehicles for years never ever been dipped or stopped by vosa
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2 hours ago, landroversforever said:
That's not the right propshaft though. They had the salisbury and then the P38 type, It is known as the short nose diff. So there is not a standard propshaft that will fit properly. The one you have will be running the risk of bottoming out. As it's longer than the P38/late 110 type, but shorter than the salisbury. So it's another issue on top of the Discovery axle not being rated for the 110 rear axle weight. VOSA etc would not take kindly to it if you have an accident.
The front diff can't be the issue here. As said above, it's the same ratio across all coil sprung Land Rovers up to the D2 and P38 Range Rover.
Have you had the engine apart at all? Not timed correctly?
Forgot to mention engine not been apart I drove it into my place many years ago had injectors out cleaned them as they were manky too and chucking loads of smoke when boost came in sorted that now this engine ain't been on the road for about five years, to be honest a good run on motorway might do it the world of good blow out all the carp and soot were it's been ticking over and not going anywere will figure it out eventually I guess I have some td5 axels now might swap them out as I had to work with what I had at the time as ive been building this for years it's the one in my profile pic cheers
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I get ya thanks for your help and no ain't had it apart it's on large fat wheels and tyres think they are 33inch wheels rear prop looks fine front one does not it looks well compressed I read somwere the v8 landy front was a diffrent ratio so thought I would come on here and ask before I start farting about with it was gonna just pull front prop off for now to test it
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1 hour ago, landroversforever said:
You’ve not got the high/low linkage together wrong have you? Just thinking if it’s really revvy it could be in low when you think it’s high?
no linkage is correct hi and low work fine it just feels like something is holding me back engine is as fit as a fiddle has a boost pin in too,am gonna take the front prop off to see if that fixes the issue if it does will pull v8 one off and stick it on ebay as they must be rare thing to get hold of and this one is in good condition so are discs and calipers were blasted and painted in 2k off the axel too lot of work went into it but if its got to go its got to go lol
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44 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
There isn’t a correct prop unless you’ve had a custom one made? The disco diff is longer than the post 02 rear axle but shorter than the original Salisbury.
I cant see your location on my phone, but roughly where abouts are you?
i have the prop on the landy and working fine no custom prop just standard you can get defenders without salisbury axel at the back i know this as i have a td5 without Salisbury axel and that uses a standard prop too the issue isnt props the issue is will is the v8 front diff no good to work with a discovery engine box and rear diff as it just dont seem rite if this is the case i will pull it out and stick a td5 one in i also still have the disco front could simply swap the guts over if need be
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10 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
So are you using the Disco transfer box or the Defender one?
i am using everything disco apart from the front axel which is a v8 axel military one
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10 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
@crewcab 110 said he'd put a Disco 300 engine + box in, if he swapped the transfer box as well that would make it 1.2:1 ratio where the original would be 1.4:1 so a bit more lively off the mark (well, a fair bit more lively with a V8 too), if it's pulling bigger tyres than a Disco (and most Defenders are) that won't help either.
That said, a 300TDi in a 90 should be able to get out of its own way.
I'm not so sure about his claim to have put a Disco axle under the back of a 110 as the 110 should have a Salisbury back axle, a Disco one isn't rated for the weight and surely the propshaft wouldn't meet up due to the diff pinion length difference
there's something odd here.
i used the correct length prop instead of the shorter one for the salisbury axel so i can use the disco rear axel its all i had at the time so i used it when i was building my landy,the gearbox was switched straight out of an old disco along with a minter engine the problem i am having its not pulling very well and i am thinking the v8 front axel which was original in when i bought the motor is the issue does this help a bit
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there's something odd here.
Pneumatic diff lock high/low operation
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
look at my post all links there to the gear