crewcab 110

look at my post all links there to the gear

ive ordered everything just about what you need for around 45 quid off alliexpress just need to make the base mounting plate which is nothing to do dont pay 400 quid https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004748487843.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.15.30611802vcXeA9 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005570800146.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.23.30611802vcXeA9 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005532177409.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.29.30611802vcXeA9 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002990634919.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.35.30611802vcXeA9 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005256626799.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.77.30611802vcXeA9 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005908233757.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.83.30611802vcXeA9 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004752572892.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.66891802wXJUIv i just have a few more bits to get if you have a constant air supply you may want to order another air solanoid to introduce air to the other two valves when system is in use still needs the switches and wiring but to be honest it isnt rocket science the rose joint ends were the smallest i could get and dont fit onto the little air rams but i wil be able to make them fit fill with weld in the ends and re tap smaller.you need the 4mm push in fittings and 4mm plastic pipe too everything needs to be 4mm. i did all this to help get al the gear together when i do my 57 conversion trying to sort it all for the summer when i do the swap fingers crossed

i am having a nightmare with stats every single one wont open unless its in a pan or raging boiling water when they are suppossed to open at 88 i pulled a waxstat out of an old 300 tdi tested in hot water just hot kettle water opened as it should put it in my defender 300 and it is now spot on why can i not buy a thermostat that works properly ive tried genuine and cheepo not one will open in boiled kettle water you have to have the water boiling and bubbeling ive now removed the viscous fan and its still spot on as i have an electric one too,anyone had this same issue. ive messaged britpart as this is were they are all coming from see what they have to say as ive got 3 diffrent ones going back as they deffo dont open at 88 or in hot kettle water

yup as ive now found out something was sticking in the box and the diff lock wasnt kicking in so not broken its never been on a road in over 5 years so i doubt it will have any oil on it hence the sticky bit ,never had any bother with my td5 box. also any of you guys using enamel to paint ya bits put some 2k hardner in with it you wouldnt beleive how well it turns out and goes off a lot quicker

Hi anyone out there got a defender witha tdci dash and bulkhead using a 3oo tdi disco engine and box

just been outside found the issue the diff lock is sticking just gave it a bash from the top and heard a little click and it must of engaged as ive got drive back to my front wheels also i wasnt able to get the selectro stick forward enough as box is out of disco and was hitting heater box from the tdci dashboard so that needs bending out the way ,thanks again for advice more minds better than one.

yup had it in diff lock was rocking back and forwards till it freed up then wouldnt work again loil just aswel am taking it out and putting a defender one in

well i got the new axel in both stubs were siezed so couldnt get prop on so stuck the wheels on put it in low ratio and rocked it back and forwards to free them lol and guess what happend lost front wheel drive rear prop still turning front prop is just sort of flicking a bit and doing nothing so safe to say ive killed something lol f ing landys dont u love em transfer box must be made of toffee. there is a big diffrence between this axel and the disco one just didnt take any notice and prop is now spot on when in position

another quick question anyone know the part number for the td5 rear stub axel seals so i dont make an arse of ordering them lol

i was showing the number on it incase that helped lol yer ive measured and this one is shorter than the disco one

yup thats the one in the picture its td5 one

this is a pic of it lol ?

does that number help this is the one i am putting on now all been knotted wheeled and needle scaled zink primer and gloss enamel looks better than the outside of the landy its turned out like a sheet of glass lol

god knows whats going on as prop that is on is off a td5 110 ive got axel sorted rust taken off twisted wire brush now then a lick of zinc primer and some black gloss enamel then i will be sticking it in at the weekend fingers crossed then ive got to do transfer box the joys of owning a defender lol

yes and i know thank you for all the help ,had my digger out went and collected an axel from my pile measured it and its shorter than disco one got a Salisbury there too but saving that for another build so i am now gonna dig out the engine crane hang it from that and set about cleaning all the rust and carp off it get it stripped paint it and pull the disco axel out of my landy then i will change transfer box too from a disco one to a landy one hopefully this will work and i am now covered in dog **** as my wheels were covered in it after going across a field at the back of my house to test it and i was leaning on the wheels oh the joys

these are the pics of prop and diff any advice would be welcomed if prop is wrong what length would i need as i am sure this one is off a 110 diff not a Salisbury i have another one but i think its shorter and that one is off a Salisbury axel

i get ya i have a mix and match of all sorts on this landy so just trying to cobble it all together i have another prop that is the correct length to work with salisbury axel i have which i purchased a while ago after i had done all the work on the disco one and put it all in blasted painted etc so i was reluctant to change it you have totally lost me with all this ratio stuff everyone saying prop length is wrong how much of the spline should be showing on the prop at rest ? i will go and take pictures and put them on here as to me it looks rite ,but you guys know what you are talking about and this is my first ground up nut and bolt build.

lol i dont get worried that easily pmsl i might get five mins to pull it out as ive done everything outside as dont have a garage and try not to leave anything laying around when working outside as the local smack rats will have it away ,my drive is on a slope so it would mean my whole drive would be out of action when i do it so will have to get some good weather before i go rolling around under landy cheers for all your help

Yes in the uk I do have a defender r380 box laying about could take the transfer box off that that would prob solve the gearing issue I also have a td5 one too an r380 one but I think the defender one maybe the way to go the axels that are on have all been shot blasted painted etc landy ain't gonna be going off road or towing anything I have a td5 double cable for that sort of thing lol so not arsed about vosa ive ran hybrid vehicles for years never ever been dipped or stopped by vosa

Forgot to mention engine not been apart I drove it into my place many years ago had injectors out cleaned them as they were manky too and chucking loads of smoke when boost came in sorted that now this engine ain't been on the road for about five years, to be honest a good run on motorway might do it the world of good blow out all the carp and soot were it's been ticking over and not going anywere will figure it out eventually I guess I have some td5 axels now might swap them out as I had to work with what I had at the time as ive been building this for years it's the one in my profile pic cheers

I get ya thanks for your help and no ain't had it apart it's on large fat wheels and tyres think they are 33inch wheels rear prop looks fine front one does not it looks well compressed I read somwere the v8 landy front was a diffrent ratio so thought I would come on here and ask before I start farting about with it was gonna just pull front prop off for now to test it

no linkage is correct hi and low work fine it just feels like something is holding me back engine is as fit as a fiddle has a boost pin in too,am gonna take the front prop off to see if that fixes the issue if it does will pull v8 one off and stick it on ebay as they must be rare thing to get hold of and this one is in good condition so are discs and calipers were blasted and painted in 2k off the axel too lot of work went into it but if its got to go its got to go lol

i have the prop on the landy and working fine no custom prop just standard you can get defenders without salisbury axel at the back i know this as i have a td5 without Salisbury axel and that uses a standard prop too the issue isnt props the issue is will is the v8 front diff no good to work with a discovery engine box and rear diff as it just dont seem rite if this is the case i will pull it out and stick a td5 one in i also still have the disco front could simply swap the guts over if need be

i am using everything disco apart from the front axel which is a v8 axel military one

i used the correct length prop instead of the shorter one for the salisbury axel so i can use the disco rear axel its all i had at the time so i used it when i was building my landy,the gearbox was switched straight out of an old disco along with a minter engine the problem i am having its not pulling very well and i am thinking the v8 front axel which was original in when i bought the motor is the issue does this help a bit